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That's pretty cool.
I've contracted a similar engine for my Spyder build: Raby 1915, alleged 120 hp. Working on getting the specs now.
Can I ask: about what RPM is your power peak?
And what is your gearing? Mine came with a 3.88 R&P but has an .82 4th, which I think is going to make too much of a gap between 3rd and 4th.
Original plan was to build a 150 hp 2110, and a change to a 3.44 R&P and .93 4th. (I love that combo in my Suby-powered MGTD, which weighs about 1650 lbs dry and peaks at about 5800 with 140 horses. The Suby has a very broad, flat torque curve though and there's no concern about RPMs vs cooling.)
But the Raby 1915 came available so I grabbed it. Still thinking a 3.44/ .93 gearset would work well, but willing to entertain arguments for a 3.88/ .89.
Or whatever other knowledge you-all might be able to impart.
Hey Ed,
Here's what Carey sent me in 2015. It has a 3.88 (Mid Stock) was written on the trans. That's all I know on the trans. Get the RAT number which is at the base of the alternator and send to Carey, he may have some info on yours too.
I have dual EMPI HPMX 44 carbs. He said it was built for 89 octane, it has a deep sump, lightened flywheel, Mallory Unilight, HyFire 6 AL and Mallory micro processor CD Ignition system.
It's a non-full flow. Pete
In a Spyder you could probably do 3.44/93, as it's almost exactly the same as 3.88/82 (3.18 vs 3.19) and since the car is significantly lighter than even a fairly light Speedster, with the 1915 the longer r&p probably would even be fun in the lower gears (notice the use of the word 'probably', as it's all conjecture on my part).
Mine also has cable shift and my friend Bill ( in Potomac MD area ) who is finishing his Spyders 2 liter engine build has the std. rod shift and says it's a challenge to shift. Mine is pretty nice.
After Carlisle I'm having a friend put in a new trans mount, and while there a new clutch, throw out bearing and pressure plate. Mine is good but I do get some jutter if I'm not spot on in how I release the clutch to shift. Not sure what the issue is. The mount maybe causing some. The poly mount I have is almost impossible to tighten to the chassis as the bolts spin inside the mount, using a vice grip on the studs I can tighten it some. I also have a cross bar across to each shock tower and my friend is going to put in flanges and a removable bar (Bill has a removable one). Would like to see yours at some point. I hope to meet you at Carlisle. My plan is to drive up just for Saturday but I will go on the best weather day. Gordon is bringing me his carb heim kit and Carey will be bringing me the clutch parts if he has all.
Pete
Pete - that's a pretty cool detail with that plate, nice job! 
Thanks for the info, Pete. I'm in touch with Carey (he sold me the engine). If it's as described then it's very similar to yours, and I think I'll stay with my 3.44/.92 trans mod plan. The power-to-weight with this engine in the Spyder will be better than the EJ22 in the TD, which is itself comparable to a 2010 Mustang GT (about 11 1/2 lbs-per hp).
That 3.44/.92 4th gear is pretty tall Ed. It feels great when you are above 60 but it's kind of a hard pull around town. I think if I had a 2332 instead of a 2110 it would be perfect in the Speedster.
3rd gear is for around town.
Ed,
I've had both gear combinations you are considering, a 3.88 with a .82 fourth, and a 3.44 with a .93.
It's true that the final drive is nearly identical, but the transmissions could not feel more different from one another. The reach from third on the .82 is just ridiculous. The .93 is just right with a stock third.
Actually, I think that the .93/3.44 transmission would be almost perfect for a Spyder. In a Speedster I do find myself cruising around in third sometimes, but it feels right. In that (significantly lighter) car, I'm guessing you'll love it.
mtflyr posted:Mine also has cable shift and my friend Bill ( in Potomac MD area ) who is finishing his Spyders 2 liter engine build has the std. rod shift and says it's a challenge to shift. Mine is pretty nice.
After Carlisle I'm having a friend put in a new trans mount, and while there a new clutch, throw out bearing and pressure plate. Mine is good but I do get some jutter if I'm not spot on in how I release the clutch to shift. Not sure what the issue is. The mount maybe causing some. The poly mount I have is almost impossible to tighten to the chassis as the bolts spin inside the mount, using a vice grip on the studs I can tighten it some. I also have a cross bar across to each shock tower and my friend is going to put in flanges and a removable bar (Bill has a removable one). Would like to see yours at some point. I hope to meet you at Carlisle. My plan is to drive up just for Saturday but I will go on the best weather day. Gordon is bringing me his carb heim kit and Carey will be bringing me the clutch parts if he has all.
Pete
I changed out all three trans mounts on my speedy in February. They were the orange/red colored poly mounts and they were in pieces.
Doing so changed the driving experience and eliminated a number of issues, from weird vibrations to clutch action and popping out of second gear on rapid deceleration.
I used the rhino mount at the cone and the best polys I could find at the rear.
I also have coil overs and both a camber compensator and an anti sway on the front. I removed the sand buggy type trans support strap and gave it to Wolfgang.
Car runs and handles great.
Bad tranny mounts can wreak havoc!
Yah, the poly monts suck!
