ID this CMC

Wide fives? 4 lug wheels? 4 wheel disc brakes?

#1 The badge says S2089. Is there a way to determine build date? Widow is searching for manuals and build receipts--not holding my breath.

No.  That number was the original order number,  The S was for one of the sales people (don't know which).  The numbers were NEVER in any numerical order.  Best bet is to find the order paperwork.  

#2 Has dry rotted 185's all around--yes, drivers rear is real tight on fender. Slight buttsag. The driver side rear gives a grown when pushed down.

Could be a dry shock, but most likely dry spring plate bushings.  If you're going to try lubing them (I use CV joint grease) you might as well replace the bushings for new.

#3 Would like to drain tank--sitting since 08--looking for easy method--thinking siphoning out through tank neck??

Sure - then remove the four bolts holding it in, remove the fuel line and take the tank to a radiator shop and have them steam it out.  Ask around for a shop that does this - for them it's no biggie.

#4 Extra large oil sump--any clues to stop oil leaks. Have owned multiple Vw's but first one with sump and oil filter.

If the sump is leaking, then get a pair of silicone sump gaskets from Aircooled.net and install them dry.  Instant stop-leak.

#5 Rear wheels--currently has very bright and clean disc on all 4's. Being its a CMC--drums and wide 5's. Any specific tire size to give it a more bold look.

Can't help you there....

#6 Engine hood--was there some kind of exterior handle to life lid? Mine has a small surface chunk --not all the way through-- where it seems would be the likely place for a latch tobe have been glued down.

Doubt it, but you question is kinda vague - Pls post a photo....that would help a lot.

#7 Paint--Ivory ext--doors look a different color. Time for a paint job???

Always.

#8 Wheels--without braking the bank what looks great. Currently has 4 bolt chrome slotted with no caps--chrome is rusting. Was thinking beauty rings with moon caps? 

Fuchs replicas, but then I'm biased!

Wide 5 refers to lug bolt spacing - 5 lugged widely space like early '57 or so VW or early 356.  Sounds like you have 4 bolt probably Mangle aftermarket wheels - I'd assume they are 5.5" wide with those big tires (they also came 4.5").  Assume yours is a classic body and not wide "California" fender flares?  Drain tank and check it for rust.  Id rusty it needs to be cleaned and sealed - check Eastwood catalog if you want to DIY.  Replace all rubber fuels and brake hoses!  Near all CMC's were factory color gel coat - if so it can be made presentable for a driver by color sanding and buffing.  A repro hood handle is available with CMC crest or a PORSCHE crest. It's held on with 3 or 4 studs thru outer hood shell and nuts on inside of hood.  Baby moon or Porsche Nipple hubcaps are available. Try 0000 steel wool to clean off rust and lots of Carnuba wax.  I'm using Porsche 914 2L Fuchs - Pedrini's and Mahle's are also available --- all 5.5" x15".  You can grind/sand the wheel openings for a little more clearance. 

Forgot to say - I'm running 185/65x15 on the Fuchs.  They are a tight fit. You don't see that the wheel opening was sanded since its the inside of the lip.  I painted the sanded fiberglass flat black to seal it.  It actually makes body look more like the original metal.

Disc brakes typically increase the track/stance. Going to wide 5s can be very expensive.  The bolt on adapters of course do quite a bit.  You may have to change entire rotor and calipers to go wide 5.  Plus your wheel selection is greatly limited.

Darn, $200 with tires was a great deal - you would also need the OEM alloy wheel bolts as they are longer than those for steel wheels.

Post up a picture of your new ride.

Changing my IRS to wide 5's took a ton of time. The front was straight forward with the swap being 66 type 1 back plates, hardware, shoes and drums. The rear was a different story. I had to cut the control arms and move the bearing housing in 1 inch and then use 70-73 VW sedan square back right side axles (for and automatic transmission). The axles are the shortest ones used by VW. 66' type 1 baking plates, hardware, shoes, and drums. Then I needed spacers for the axle stub so the nut would tighten down on the drum. A bunch of cash and several hours of fab work. A member here Mangosmoothie did the exact same thing and posted pictures and details of the build. Please search the archives and you will have a lot to read

Post a side picture - what series are the 185's - assume 70 if old.  Most new are 65 so that's somewhat lower right there. Lowering rear could cause to hit top of wheel well fiberglass! 

Don't cut corners , replace all the bushing now while you have a chance. Because once you start driving it its hard to put it down. I would replace the bushings, tires, tierod ends, ball joints and adjust the steering gearbox or replace that as well. Wheel bearings and seals as needed because you can service those items.Replace rubber brake lines, flush the fluid until its clear! Replace the shocks while your in there. Just don't leave and stone unturned. Theses cars are old platforms and need attention as age has taken a toll on the chassis

The body should sit lower in the front than the back, by just a little bit maybe 3/4 inch to 1 inch. The front wheels will not match the wheel arch because its a pan based car CMC, Vintage, and some early IM's where like this. Unless your like me and have OCD don't worry about it. But that being said I moved my front axle beam forward 2 5/8 to correct this issue. Lots more fab work and welding but I like the results

Will get some pics up tmro. So raise the rear via recamber or get 165's first

I wouldn't rely on just a measurement.  I'd put tires and wheels you are going with.  Then adjust rear height/front height to what looks right.  Couple sand bags in driver's seat, battery and 3/4 full tank of gas. Then have it aligned front and rear.  I'd have a set of caster shims available. Also check all rubber boots like ball joints and inspect and at least replace boots if they are damaged. Check steering rag joint while you're under there.  If you want to go to adjustable rear spring plates (give fine adjustment) - now is time to do that.