Does anyone make intake manifolds that allow the carbs to reversed; i.e. have the adjustment needles in toward the engine?
I developed a popping Saturday evening while driving to dinner. About 100 miles round trip.
I know it's the idle jet on cylinder #3...always seems to be that one. Cleaning all of them on the Spyder was a 5 minute job. Have to remove the linkage mount and carb top on the Speedster to get access.
Any better ideas?
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https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/3271.htm
CB Performance makes a manifold that allows you to mount the carbs in reverse. Essentially you swap the left and right carbs which positions the idle jets to the inside.
CB Performance makes Space Saver manifolds. But you may have trouble accessing the screws with a doghouse shroud. They work REALLY well with a 911 shroud.
What I would do is order up JayCee IDF jet holders. They have a hex outside and inside(something like 4mm, but I don't remember for sure). Make yourself a tool with a hex key and an inch or so diameter knob. This will allow you to get the jet and holder out without removing the carb tops.
I made one for Bruce Stumpp. Working on IDFs in Speedster sucks. This makes it suck less:
Robert, Thanks, that's what I'm looking for.
Danny, I've seen those extensions and may change them also. It doesn't take much to get the idle jet plugged. I have new fuel filters but something gets through. Always seems to be #3 cylinder. Not logical.
Thanks,
Jim, what shroud do you have? It matters. Joel Shumacher had a helluva time getting to one of his jets and/or mixture screws.
If a jet plugs, it always seems to be the same one for me too. It is weird how that works.
New filters help.
My thoughts are on 44’s once the air filter top is of. Between the 2 main jet stacks if you look you can see into the fuel bowl. So any bits that drop of whilst removing the air filter assembly etc may or could drop down in the fuel bowl and block the idle jets.
Maybe some sort of a fine gauze over this area would help maybe. Not even sure why this opening is even there? Anyone.
On my first Spyder I fought idle jet problems until I "discovered" the open top float bowls..... Things got marginally better with a more precise air filter cleaning and attention to detail...... The last thing to cause the problem was rubber "flashing" from the air filter elements..... Vast improvement after removing the flashing.... Not perfect, but way better...
Richard, idle air is drawn from that open area. CB jet doctors help a lot, as they draw the air from a snorkel and seal off that area.
I found that if the air filters were left alone, the problem went away. No more plugged jets. It was even better with the CB turbo hats as the filter is off to one side and not directly over the carb top.
So my conclusion is that plugged idle jets come from junk that drops down when R & R air filters. Your mileage may vary......
Danny, I have the 911 shroud. I suspect that I may need to rejet.
Then you're good to go. Rave on, Jim.
I recently welded in a bung for a wideband. saved some cash on the one I bought. I'm not a fan of the Innovate products.
http://www.wide-band.com/Defau...VEAAYASAAEgK3qPD_BwE
This was cheapest and appears to be very reliable.
After jetting, I stick a plug in the hole.
Danny what’s the snorkel you mention.?
l found using cheaper alternative air filters. The material used, they start to break down over a few years to a point we’re you only have the mesh exposed. These bits must get into the mention area and help block jets.
What im saying is don’t go cheap on filters, go for K&N etc to help eliminate blocked idle jets. Worked in my case at least.
Agreed Richard. I was attempting to reduce intake noise, it's VERY loud with a top up on a Spyder. 107dB at full throttle, I think 98 at cruise. That's pretty loud. I bought a couple turbo hats, base gaskets, and a couple 2" cone filters.
It worked very well when I also installed short velocity stacks. Then I screwed it up by installing jet doctors. The intake reversion REALLY interfered with the idle air intake of the jet doctor snorkels. I wrote up a thread in the Speedster Tech section on here. So back to tall velocity stacks and regular K & N type filters.
https://www.speedsterowners.co...s-long-and-technical
DP: wrt working on IDFs in Speedster sucking or maybe sucking less. Could we just say it sucks no matter what?? As to the hex key jet holders, unless you follow the Lane Anderson Method for installation, these really are the bomb. I just ground off a hex key to appropriate length, and no problemo. Also employ Jet Doctors, and use K&N filter elements. Belts, suspenders, snaps, buttons and zippers. You do all you can do, and it still sucks.
I have heard about reversing the carbs w a certain manifold, but have not researched. Sounds doable. but then maybe doghouse is then in the way? Some kinda shyt always in the way.
Jim...I used the space saver manifolds from CB. They work really nice and give you a lot of room on the sides when you remove/install the engine. My shroud is a 36 HP unit. Yes the idle jets are now a little close to the fan shroud but EASY to see. What I did is similar to what Danny suggested. I bought the JayCee jet holders and 4 Allen wrenches. sawed off the "ell" of each Allen wrench and soldered them into the JayCee jet holders. I bought 4 extra JayCee holders and sawed off the jet holder part, leaving the Allen wrench socket left, which I soldered to the other end of the Allen wrench in the first JayCee jet holder. (this means that you buy 8 each, JayCee jet holders and 4 each Allen wrenches) With this modified jet holder extension, I can see all four of them when they are installed. I use an 8 mm wrench to tighten/loosen them and the 8mm brass nut is easy to hold onto when "hunting" for the hole to install them. A REAL PLUS is the steel Allen wrench part of this assembly allows me to use a magnet to remove/find the assembly when I drop it down in that "nightmarish" area below !!
Here's some photos
