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I just did a major upgrade of my engine compartment and converted by tins to 36 hp shrowd. I had to change my weber linkage to the carb which had the return welded instead of a bolt through. Anyway, I got new up right adjusters on my hex cross bar. when I hooked everything up the idle was off so i disconnected one linkage and airbalanced the carbs. It runs great and the only issue is the idle is at 1200 rpms. If I push down on the bar it goes to 850 to 900 rpms. It appears that the bushings in the end of the carborator to cross bar linkage has play in one end. This seams to be enough to up the ideal. I tried to get replacement bushings with no luck. Any one Have an idea. IT runs excellent with lots of linear accelleration up to 5500 rpms but I would like to get the idle lower. It won't happen at the idle screw because once I adjust down the difference in the linkage keeps it from staying down.
any Suggestions???
thanks
bill
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I just did a major upgrade of my engine compartment and converted by tins to 36 hp shrowd. I had to change my weber linkage to the carb which had the return welded instead of a bolt through. Anyway, I got new up right adjusters on my hex cross bar. when I hooked everything up the idle was off so i disconnected one linkage and airbalanced the carbs. It runs great and the only issue is the idle is at 1200 rpms. If I push down on the bar it goes to 850 to 900 rpms. It appears that the bushings in the end of the carborator to cross bar linkage has play in one end. This seams to be enough to up the ideal. I tried to get replacement bushings with no luck. Any one Have an idea. IT runs excellent with lots of linear accelleration up to 5500 rpms but I would like to get the idle lower. It won't happen at the idle screw because once I adjust down the difference in the linkage keeps it from staying down.
any Suggestions???
thanks
bill
The cross bar has a socket at each end, that fits over a ball on a stud that's anchored in the base of the carb (if it has CB Performance linkage - others I'm not sure of). Those ball-studs should be aqdjusted so that there is only about 1/8" of sideways play when you graps the entire bar and try to move it back and forth. If it has more movement, then it can act very loose on the rest of the linkage.

The linkages between the cross bar and the carbs have ball and socket ends called "Heim Joints". If they have any play at all, the carbs cannot be sync'd easily, if at all, and new ones are available from CB Performance, and pretty much any decent Speed Shop around the country (they're popular with the Street Rodder crowd for multiple carb linkage set-ups).

Pick up some new sets - enough to replace ALL of your linkage ends, as others may be getting sloppy, too. That should tighten things up nicely and you should be able to get BOTH carbs sync'd right on the money, from idle all the way up the RPM scale.

Gordon
gordon
thanks, I'll try to get the sockets and install. actually tonite I took off for awhile and when it warmed up she dropped down to 1k and seemed to do that consistantly, maybe the other new parts are breaking in. I'll replace the sockets and see what happens.
thanks again
bill
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