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So my new to me VS had a strange little bit about the ignition. When the transporter gent was unloading I noticed that he would crank the engine but no start. But... When he released the key after a long crank the engine would catch just in time and start. It happened three times as he maneuvered it off the transport. So once it was in my hands I had to look into this further. 1st thing I did was suspect the dash mounted ignition switch. I played with it a bit and noticed the same condition the transport driver had. I also noticed that when the engine was running I could switch over to accessory and the engine would continue to run! I was just going to replace the switch (assuming that was the fault) from Kurt at VS but - then I thought "take a look 1st". So I did. I got out my voltage tester and checked the 5 poles on the ignition switch to see what they do. I found two rather large red wires to two poles with constant power. Fair enough. Then I twisted the key to start and found a pole that had power only when I was up against the spring loaded return for the starter. Fair enough again. Then I switched over to accessory and found that the radio was connected to that energized pole. Then there was a lone pole with nothing on it. It had power during cranking and when the key was on towards RUN as well - but not when turned to accessory. Just as an experiment I unplugged the radio wire to the accessory pole and swapped it over to this empty pole. Then I cranked the engine again. Volia the engine fired off as I was cranking and puttered to life (like it should). The radio still worked, but not when the key is on accessory (obviously) any longer. When I have more time later I will get to the bottom o this, but now the car (and ignition switch) works like it should.

It all looks like new under the dash. A pleasure to tinker with.
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So my new to me VS had a strange little bit about the ignition. When the transporter gent was unloading I noticed that he would crank the engine but no start. But... When he released the key after a long crank the engine would catch just in time and start. It happened three times as he maneuvered it off the transport. So once it was in my hands I had to look into this further. 1st thing I did was suspect the dash mounted ignition switch. I played with it a bit and noticed the same condition the transport driver had. I also noticed that when the engine was running I could switch over to accessory and the engine would continue to run! I was just going to replace the switch (assuming that was the fault) from Kurt at VS but - then I thought "take a look 1st". So I did. I got out my voltage tester and checked the 5 poles on the ignition switch to see what they do. I found two rather large red wires to two poles with constant power. Fair enough. Then I twisted the key to start and found a pole that had power only when I was up against the spring loaded return for the starter. Fair enough again. Then I switched over to accessory and found that the radio was connected to that energized pole. Then there was a lone pole with nothing on it. It had power during cranking and when the key was on towards RUN as well - but not when turned to accessory. Just as an experiment I unplugged the radio wire to the accessory pole and swapped it over to this empty pole. Then I cranked the engine again. Volia the engine fired off as I was cranking and puttered to life (like it should). The radio still worked, but not when the key is on accessory (obviously) any longer. When I have more time later I will get to the bottom o this, but now the car (and ignition switch) works like it should.

It all looks like new under the dash. A pleasure to tinker with.
Right you are sir.

I cant imagine why or how someone did not correct this in the past, but I have it more to my liking now. It left me for dead when I flooded it once because of this (imagine cranking & cranking with no spark as you press on the throttle waiting for fire!). I had to push start the 'ol tub after feeding it so much fuel without any spark.

You know, the drivers door squeaked. Took about five minutes to adjust. The idle was at 400RPM, another five minutes to correct. Headlights pointed at the ground. Five minutes. Wiper arm detached. 1 minute (twice). Just a handful of insignificant stuff that takes just minutes to correct. EXACTLY the way I wanted it.

Great cars theses little replicas. Its all about the fun.
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