Ignition Switch Wiring

I also have a Bosch switch after the original failed on me. When I get home I'll see if I can locate my wiring info.

Months ago I replaced the 'stock' switch that came with in my car with a Bosch unit. I burnt the bosch switch up, loose wire. This morning I replaced it with a new unit. It came wired from TR with both the accessorie wire and headlight wire attached to the same terminal. Is the fairly normal?

other question... i have an empty terminal '30'. is this a power in only terminal or can i move the headlight lead to the now vacant '30'?

i received this info on a post last time around, thought it worth posting again:

50 = Starter Control
75 = Acc (radio, cig lighter)
15 = Ign
30 = Battery

If you leave it as is, the headlights will only work when you have the key in ACC or RUN position. Saves battery if you occasionally forget to turn the lights off. If you move the headlight wire to terminal 30, the headlight switch will always be hot and you can turn on the lights without the key.

One more trick you might like,, You need a Bosch 4 pin relay and a Buzzer . it has 2 circuts a hot to the key switch. and a hot from the lights output

Buzzer pulls power from the lights only when the the key is turned off and the lights are left on. It warns you to cut off the lights.

Cool tech tip, Barry! I learn something new every time I visit this site.

Buzzer, also can do this for oil pressure and or alt light. A drag race buddy used an old fashion loud 12v door bell in the car, I LMAO until it saved the motor.

I did consider a relay kit simular to this ,that kills the coil power if the oil light comes on, but didn't do that but I did put the light minder kit on both the Bug and the D.

Too much plumbing stops up the drain.