I'm A New Purchaser. 1776 cc Engines Still Grenading?

Hello Gang,

I'm finalizing my plans for a new Speedster purchase (turnkey) after viewing some very nice examples at the recent Barrett Jackson Palm Beach auction. I have been in contact with the West Coast builders and will be visiting them during the last week of April. I'm hoping the board can help with a few items.

1. I've reviewed posts on this board going back three years. I see that there's a bit of an issue with the 1776 Mexi-crates. Is this unit to be avoided in favor of a 1600 or 1915? Does the engine problem extend to these other units?

2. The builders indicate that body height is adjustable. Is this hard to do, and can it be done without a lift? I like the look of a lowered car.

3. Can anyone share their experience with the SOUND of the various engine sizes? What sounds 'good'?

4. Does it make sense to go "wide 5" from the get-go? I'll assume the tire size is 185/65 - 15?

5. Fog Lights - has anyone been able to locate lights with grills to match the headlights with grills?

Sorry for the long post, but thanks for the help!

Regards, Jerry

Jerry, I don't think there is anything particularly wrong with the 1776cc engine in particular, but rather the rather marginal components that have gone into the "Mexi-crate" builds. I had a 2000 VS with this engine and the engine didn't grenade. I think that if you operate the engine within reasonable parameters, as I did, these engines can be just fine. However, I have come to the conclusion personally that the quality of these engines has been spotty; maybe the engine will be OK and maybe it won't.

As far as sound goes, mine had the dual quiet packs and was, well, quiet compared to many with less restrictive exhaust. When you get out on the highway, this is something you may appreciate because the noise can get to you after a while. Earplugs become useful.

My current ride has no mufflers at all save for a little glass pack resonator immediately behind the exhaust tips. The only other thing between the exhaust manifold and the resonator are the dual inline catalytic converters, and yes, I have used earplugs at times. With the top up, it's pretty loud.
Hoss

The "Mexi-crates" as they're called are basically done by VS. What they are is basically brand new VW Mexico OEM 1600 cc longblocks that VS gets a hold of. If you request bigger cylinders they basically tear it down, bore the heads and case and put it all back together with bigger pistons and cylinders of your choice. I recall Jim Ward's 1776 blew up because the stock cam rivets (they're not bolted on as performance and aftermarket units) gave out at around 4,000 rpms and the whole engine was a mess after that. Being that's the case, the choice of cylinder size wouldn't make much difference in the reliability of the motor because they're all basically the same. If I had a choice I'd go with 90.5 cylinders (1776) or the new thickwall 92's (1835) machining the cylinder bases down so that the holes in the case are 90.5 size (the holes in the heads would be the same as for 94 mm cylinders). Regarding the sound, although it largely depends on the exhaust system of your choice, I guess you'll get a throatier sound as you go bigger.

With regards to wheels; if you want to make your car look more original go with the wide fives. Personally I like the look a whole lot better; unless you plan to go with the Porsche narrow five (for Fuchs wheels and the like) which also look killer in these cars. Stock rim width is 4.5" (as opposed to the more common 5.5") and stock size tires are the 165-SR 15's, same as a VW Bug/Ghia although I've seen folks use up to 195's.

Regarding height adjustability just make sure your car comes with adjustable springplates in the back (the front beams always come with adjusters from the builders). It's a cinch to dial up your height.

For a good example on how all these items can really make a difference in a car's look go to Lambros' photo album and take a look at his before and after pictures. You'll hardly believe it's the same car after the changes he made.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. I'm learning that as far as engines go, it's all about the internals....

Jerry,

I suggest when you are on the West Coast you try to visit SCAT Performance in Redondo Beach and CB Performance Farmersville, Ca North of Bakersfield.

Some of the turn-key builders will try to convince you to go with rebuilt engines or mexi-crates without any pedigree.

If you can "pop" a few hundred extra bucks you can get a zero mile case and performance parts. In the long run it all works out.

The builders like to sell a package deal and make a couple hundred off the rebuilt engine. Engines built around remanufactured cases and random stock VW parts may not be the most enduring combination.

Pay them now, or pay them later.

To add to Bill's list of engine builders; check out the Chicos' shop too; top notch and reasonable:

http://www.steelbuggin.com/

Mexican crate engine are the ones that had rivits fail in the cam gear.
I think!

I have a question Im thinking they are GEX, supplied. Is that correct?

NO....God!! THAT would be a problem!! The ones we're talking about are OEM VW of Mexico; millions of them around without grenading so I guess it's just like with any other car; a question of odds and/or luck. Do a search on GEX on The Samba.com and you'll see what I mean!

Do youself a FAVORE and forget the next 3 letters ----GEX----.

Whew!! Thats good . G what?

If the mexican engines are still afilated with VW? That would be a real good factory replacement.

I don't know much about the the other supplier but I have heard you can pull the oil pump and fix the cam gear rivot problem drilling them out and tapping an adding bolts but I just don't like the idea of any missed metal filings missed by the sphion that is used to suck up lose materials. Very scarey

You got that right.