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In the process of replacing my IM's front beam bushings. After finding one suspect bushing I'm doing them all with Delrin.

 

According to my freindly AC mechanic the standard IM needle bushings are welded in place..and the only way to 'service' the beam is to replace the entire beam.?? Is my mechanic on drugs? Please tell me he's 'smokin' and It can be done. I can't believe its any different than a standard adjustable beam.

 

AND then he tells me that won't be easy since the beam is welded to the frame. I knew that part.

 

I'd really like to get this done as it's the very last piece in my total bumper to bumper mechanical resto'..AND I'm having too much fun driving it. So forget about ripping the front off. I'll park it for the winter if that has to happen

 

I researched it best I could... and what I found so far is:  instead of dragging/fighting them out..they simply 'push'/punch them further into the beam to make room for the new bushings. OR some have removed the beam, cleaned it out and heated it enough to make pulling them easier.... But if they're welded....

 

I tried to call Henry but according to Robert there's no way he's answering any stupid questions..too busy reorganzing the new shop (understandable)...sigh..he usually has THE ANSWERS

 

Anyone with an IM front beam bushing experience' is welcome to chime in here

1957 Intermeccanica(Roadster)

Last edited by MooseX
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I read that thread last nite. very interesting. He's probably got a bolt off beam. Damn IM beams are WELDED to the frame.

 

If it was a bolt on I would've had it off and replaced like RIGHT OFF THE BAT. Ridiculous that they would make them almost unserviceable..just stupid. How are you suppose to shim it? Dumb. Sorry Henry but cmon'...

Moose:

 

I've done a lot of Vw front ends and those inner bearings are NOT welded in.  Think about it.....how are you going to get a welding rod in there and accurately tack them?   In the 1960's??  

 

Once they are positioned at the factory the torsion tube is peened in a couple of spots to hold them in place- that's it.  If you have a slide hammer bearing puller they'll come right out.  If not, get a suitably-sized piece of pipe and drive them farther in a few inches (2-3" is all it takes) and forgetaboutdem.

Ok, you’ve got trialing arms off both sides of the beam. Put a rod through the beam from one side to the other and catch the lip of the bearing on the opposite side and drive it out with a mallet.

 

This isn’t rocket science, it’s that simple!

____

 

One of you stated the beam is welded to the frame…, and real 356’s are too.

 

- Anyway, does the beam have any caster that’s notably visible?

- Is the bottom of the beam at the same level / height as the bottom of the car?

 

I’ve crawled under a few IM’s…, their pretty well thought out.

 

David   /   dd-ardvark

My IM is an 86 model and the front beam was bolted on and not welded on.  I welded in adjusters once and in doing so ruined the bakelite bushes.  So I chipped the remainder of them out with a hammer and long screwdriver and then pried out the needle bearings.  I then used the red plastic bearings, the long ones that don't have inner and outer bearings.  I went through two sets of these but they never fit right, there was always some play no matter what I did and the car would wander and could not be aligned.  I then gave up and bought a new beam with needle bearings and the inner bakelite bearings, bolted that one on and got rid of the old beam.  I'm kind of surprised your IM has the beam welded in place as the usual frame they make does not.

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