IM speedster help?

Yes, a great price and I'd say it sounds like you know what to do (mechanically) without our help.

I agree Robert. No fees, didn't get her on EBay, and I'm going to make her mine. Clean up the engine compartment, disc brake conversion. I'm going to need plastic surgery to remove the smile from my face

Since you'll need to address items on and about the motor I would just yank it out, clean it up, reseal it and reassemble with upgrades....

Greg,  That looks like Alan Hais's (MD) car

Car is out of WV

Crhemi, it's true I know what I'm doing, but I also know when to take advice from people who know more than I do. I'll gladly accept any info you guys can and will share. Big thanks to all of you, this is something I have wanted since I was 14

MusbJim posted:

This is what is called a 'wide-five'. It's the wheel bolt pattern of the early VWs.

This is the VW 4-bolt pattern that was on VWs beginning around 1968 and probably the most common wheel bolt pattern on replica Speedsters.

 

One happy customer:

Right after Alex at Vintage Motorcars put out the word that their new Vintage 190 5x205 bolt pattern aluminum wheels were now available I bought a set to be mounted on my new Outlaw style Speedster while it was still under construction at Vintage Speedsters.  To say I could not be more pleased with them would be an understatement.  In addition to being a great looking set of wheels, they only weight 12lbs each which is about 10lbs lighter than standard steel wheels.  Thank about it, that amounts to 40lbs less rotating mass. 

Took the car to Cars & Coffee for the first time a couple of weeks ago and the folks there also liked them. . . a lot.  Highly recommended.

Cliff

          Vintage 190 5x205 Aluminum Wheel

Wolfgang, just got a few pictures of the speedster. I guess I really got a deal, take a look at the picture of the hood hinge. Also, there is no build plate on the car, or sticker so I'm trying to locate a vin on the car. Besides the tunnel buy the rear seats, is there another place for the vin?

No, the only place left for the VIN is at the back of the tunnel on the top before the rear luggage shelf/back seat. Should be under a lift-able flap of carpet. I should have prefaced that with, "On a VS built, pan-based car, the VIN is.....". I suppose it could be accessed differently on a IM built pan-based car but the location should be in the same place since it's stamped on the factory VW tunnel.

"Right after Alex at Vintage Motorcars put out the word that their new Vintage 190 5x205 bolt pattern aluminum wheels were now available I bought a set to be mounted ...Took the car to Cars & Coffee for the first time a couple of weeks ago and the folks there also liked them. . . a lot.  Highly recommended."

And there's no pics, Cliff? Unacceptable!

ALB posted:

"Right after Alex at Vintage Motorcars put out the word that their new Vintage 190 5x205 bolt pattern aluminum wheels were now available I bought a set to be mounted ...Took the car to Cars & Coffee for the first time a couple of weeks ago and the folks there also liked them. . . a lot.  Highly recommended."

And there's no pics, Cliff? Unacceptable!

Focus Al, jzzzake needs help with his IM.

Great! those hinges cinches it for me - it's an early IM.  The IM door opening stickers were just sticky backed foil stickers (they weren't riveted on) - probably got removed if car was ever repainted.  The VA assigned # is now most likely your VIN on the title.  The VW chassis number (aka VW VIN) is helpful replacement parts though.  You can get the IM prancing bull badge for the hood handle.

Wolfgang I agree, and I'm very excited to get a real IM for $13. But I can't find a vin on the tunnel, so I'm worried I may not know what year the running gear is to get replacement parts or upgrades. But I'm super excited to have a real IM

Are you saying there are no #'s stamped on the tunnel? If not you may have a problem as all VW chassis have them...

jzzzake posted:

WOLFGANG posted:

Sorry spelled it way wrong - intermeccanica

Titled as an '81 VW? Do you mean '71 - since '76 was last year for T1 production (guess it could be Mexican?).  Need to check to see what wheel bolt pattern currently  is.  '71 would be 4 bolt stock. The SEARCH (magnifying glass icon) works great here. 

Most like front disc but if stock engine drums in good shape work quite well - it is a good start on THE MADNESS though.

All I can say is the guy I'm buying it from says it is titled as an 81vw

Now that you have the car what does the registration say about the car?

Make/model/VIN# etc?

If you want block out your name and address, or whatever name and address is on it, scan it, and post it here.

Robert M posted:

ALB posted:

"Right after Alex at Vintage Motorcars put out the word that their new Vintage 190 5x205 bolt pattern aluminum wheels were now available I bought a set to be mounted ...Took the car to Cars & Coffee for the first time a couple of weeks ago and the folks there also liked them. . . a lot.  Highly recommended."

And there's no pics, Cliff? Unacceptable!

Focus Al, jzzzake needs help with his IM.

Nothing I can do from here, Robert. But we do need pics of Cliff's car (and a few others) at the Cars & Coffee, and I was just thinking how much I like chocolate cake...

I bet the VW VIN is still there - probably against DOT Law to grind it off.  Did you pull carpet back several inches in front of the rear seat - just in front of the the shift linkage cover plate (unless its before 1957 chassis).

.

I'm trying to do all this from Key West as the car is located in WV. So this is what I have so far...

This is also what I have. Based on the engine number and my research the motor is a 1970 Type 1,1600, dual relief, single port

Maybe contact IM with the 6002 and see if they have any records.

I had a big problem when I moved my car from VA to Hawaii and then discovered non matching #'s on the title vs the VIN.

Granted I'm no expert in Virginia's DMV laws but it looks like after it was built and titled in Virginia it was inspected and given a new VIN type number. Similar to what California calls SPCNS vehicles. When the car was issued it's unique number the plate was stamped and given to the registered owner to affix to the vehicle or affixed at the inspection station. The new VIN # is now 49268VA. It does look like IM numbered it IM6002. Hopefully they still have records for it. 1981 is most likely the year VA first titled it after it was made into a Speedster. The only other faint possibility I could think of is the donor was an engineless Mexican built Beetle since the Make/Body says it is a Volkswagen Coupe with a 1981 year.

Seeing the title has almost raised as more questions than it provided answers. LOL

Strange that WV took the VA R and made it a 4.  When you get car - take wire brush on a drill to get all the fussies off the tunnel. Hard to do from Key West to WV.  

If you decide to flat tow it home - you are welcome to borrow my slightly modified (narrowed so bumper doesn't have to be removed) tow bar.  It is an easy tow BUT a long trip. I'm in NW FL on the way.

Talked with a great guy today at IM. He confirmed for me that it is a real IM, and also let me know it is titled as an 81 because that was the year she was first titled. Was built with a 1970 1600cc and around a 75-77 type 1 pan. He told me she was prob one of the first California cars. So I have a pretty clear picture of what I'm getting. Just need to hurry up and get her here so I can do some much needed clean up and upgrades. Then drive her every day!

Great news!

Good to hear. Sometimes our speculations are correct.

Wolfgang, wondering if you know what needs to be done to install 914 seats into my speedster. I like the idea of more comfortable, adjustable seats

You just bolt them to the floor like any other.

I Can't see how those seats are more comfortable as they have no rake adjustment just saying

Gordon had them in his Speedster for years.  Do you have the rear hinged OEM tilting platforms and the toothed catch for front?  If so you need OEM pivot (below) or strap hinges to anchor rear and hunk of angle iron for front toothed gear.  That would allow seat bolster tilting (rake) plus back and forth motion.  If you just have the fiberglass seats then you can mount them to universal seat sliders - no tilt but they will slide.  I'd put a piece of finished oak or mahogany to raise runners off carpet.  You could bevel it if you want to increase height for rake at full forward or full back.  (Use very big washers where bolt goes thru the fiberglass).  The seat back is kind of un-vintage and it can be cut off. 

I had the complete glider assembly and, as Wolfgang mentions, they move fore and aft as well as recline (rake, if you will).  Be aware that the entire seat tilts back making the seatback tilt up to 15-20 degrees, depending on how many teeth in the front rake adjuster.  The release lever is about 1/2 way back along the tunnel side of the seat and is operable with one finger.  The fore/aft adjuster is a ring just below the outside knee (see above photo), which you lift gently and then move the seat.  I used some beefy strap hinges to secure the rear of the tracks - worked great.

If you're planning on 914 seats (and they drop right in to a CMC, Bill) then get the complete track/glider set as well as the toothed adjuster for the front of the base (not shown above).  If they don't have that toothy thing, Pelican and Unobtainum have them and they're cheap, or make one from 1/4" thick angle iron like I did and make the teeth with an angle grinder.

The "Tush Test" tells me that 914 seats ARE more comfortable than regular "speedster seats", and not quite as comfortable as the wider cabriolet or roadster seats for long trips, although reclining them back lifts the front edge of the seat to support just under your knees and THAT helps a lot.

I have a set but need the bottom slider/track. When I redue my interior I'd like to cut them down and use them. My Beck seats are a little narrow on the but.

Bill - look on ebay - I've seen the bases for $40 each (PORSCHE!).  Here's the toothed part - 

 Here's one other question I really wanted to ask you guys how do you guys get insurance for your speedsters valued at what they are really worth?   One of the problems that I have noticed so far finding out about insurance is all the insurance companies want to tell me how long I can drive my car... as if for some reason they own it and I'm just borrowing it from them.  The other thing I've noticed is they expect my car to be locked up like it's in Fort Knox when it's not in use.  I live in Key West enclosed locked garage is a really not found down here because they take up valuable space.  I have a shop that I work at that has a fence an alarm and gets locked at night but they are saying to me that that might be not enough.  Does anybody happen to have any suggestions of a good classic car insurance company that will  ensure my baby but at the same time actually allow me to drive it and not dictate to me wgen,where and for how long I can drive my own car??

 Sucks to finally be getting my dream car only have some ass hat on the other side of the phone telling me that I'm not allowed to drive it because they say so. 

Thoughts? 

jzzzake posted:

 Here's one other question I really wanted to ask you guys how do you guys get insurance for your speedsters valued at what they are really worth?   One of the problems that I have noticed so far finding out about insurance is all the insurance companies want to tell me how long I can drive my car... as if for some reason they own it and I'm just borrowing it from them.  The other thing I've noticed is they expect my car to be locked up like it's in Fort Knox when it's not in use.  I live in Key West enclosed locked garage is a really not found down here because they take up valuable space.  I have a shop that I work at that has a fence an alarm and gets locked at night but they are saying to me that that might be not enough.  Does anybody happen to have any suggestions of a good classic car insurance company that will  ensure my baby but at the same time actually allow me to drive it and not dictate to me wgen,where and for how long I can drive my own car??

 Sucks to finally be getting my dream car only have some ass hat on the other side of the phone telling me that I'm not allowed to drive it because they say so. 

Thoughts? 

An AGREED VALUE or GUARANTEED VALUE (if you're with Hagerty) pays the full value of the car without depriciation. 

Try a search here on the forum for insurance. companies. I have American Modern and can only say what they give me. My car is insured for $30K, 6,000 mile limit, and it has to be in a lockable garage type facility. 

You could consider renting a storage unit to store the car. I didn't have to send a picture of my garage, they just asked if I had a way to store it in a locked building. 

Tell them what they want to here and hope for the best...

Wolfgang,  if you don't mind me asking since we are both from Florida who do you have as far as your insurance company goes?  Are they any good do they have any restrictions on you?

jzzzake posted:

Wolfgang,  if you don't mind me asking since we are both from Florida who do you have as far as your insurance company goes?  Are they any good do they have any restrictions on you?

Greg has not finished his 20 + year speedster project and has no need for insurance...

Bill is regretfully right - I didn't title it in VA because that set me up for yearly personal property taxes.  Retired from DOD in 2011 and moved South.  In FL I need to get it by the Tax Ofiice for VIN/ODO check - then insure it.  I plan to title it as the FL Chassis Title/VIN of the donor - a '71 VIN.  I do also have a CMC Nov 1988 Certificate of Origin. In VA I had talked to State Farm about insuring it - they are so flaky in FL (don't ensure real property much less water front or even boats) that I dropped them.  I'm with GEICO now - not sure what their stance is on kit cars.  I also have a beach cruiser to register (Dolphin Mod-T dune buggy) to register too.  I do have a big barn to store them in so they are under lock and key at least).  Plus I'm like 56' above sea level.  

Jzzzake,

This subject has been discussed quite a bit on our forum.  There is a good search button that works well.  You can pretty much get any kind of coverage you desire, but, no surprise, you'll pay more for extended mileage and higher valuation.  My suggestion is that every owner buy insurance that covers his usage/needs/value and abide by the terms of the contract.

If you need more info, you may want to start a new thread with Insurance subject.