Indexing Control Arms

Jack the car up, remove the grub screws and see where they sit. IIrc the ends of the leaf assembly fits into a locating "block"; but I haven't removed the arms from a beam in a while. Al

Actually, you're looking at adjusting the wrong end.  The front trailing arms are probably fine.  You adjust the fender height (even in the front) by adjusting the REAR height by moving the spring plates on the torsion bars.  There mit be a write-up in the knowledge section on here.  If not, email or PM me and I'll send you complete instructions.

gn

The front is not adjustable side to side.  Adjusting the left rear side will impact the right front though.  It could be possible that one or more of the torsion bars in the front are broken (there are like 8 in each upper and the lower packs). A single broken flat spring to one side of the center grub screw could cause it to sag on one side. If the springs were cut or some removed to lower the front that could be an issue too. If the front beam is not greased occasionally  it could hang up and freeze on one side.

Didn't Danny P. do a reply once on using scales to adjust settings at each corner?  Visually the corner down force is hard to adjust since the fame and body could be off. I know down force is different from car being level but its probably more important in driving it. I remember following CMC shortening directions which relied on using 2 warped Home Depot 2x4s to produce a "precision" frame. 

To add to that, if the ride height was set level with simulated driver's weight in the seat by reindexing the rear torsion bars, it can sit a little lopsided (left rear high, right front low) without anyone in the car. Jack the front end up in the center of the beam to create a balance point, both front wheels off the ground, and see if the rear is level left to right. It's a quick check to see if the rear is indexed close to even without needing to disassemble things.

As Wolfgang said, if the sagging problem is actually with the front torsion bars, it's most likely a broken leaf. The grub screw on the arm only prevents side to side movement. The trailing arm itself is shaped internally to fit the stepped shape of the leaf spring pack so the arm cannot rotate around the spring pack even if you remove the grub screw. (Not enough to visibly affect the ride height anyway, unless the hole's horribly wallowed out.)

 or the pan was shortened and not done squarley.even a rear tire that is low on air can cause this.adjustable spring plates are a nice way to go and be able to "scale it" easely.

If your ride is a CMC it’s may not be the chassis, hopefully it is.

Some, not all of the front ends are off a bit. To prove me wrong, break out that measuring stick and measure from known points on your ride. You know, side to side and front to back and you may find that the measurements don’t match by as much as a ¾”.

Put a level across the bottom side of you chassis at the front end, now lay the level across the fenders and of course the bottom edge of the fiberglass front end.

David    /    dd-ardvark

Thanks for all the input guys. The front was even steven before I installed the drop spindles and disk brake setup and with that done I had to raise the front height, I have an Avis setup. I lowered the rear to accommodate the new front rake and the rear ride height is even . Somethings a muck for sure so I guess I'll do more checking this weekend as I ready for Carlisle. If all else fails maybe I could eat enough donuts between now and to lower the drivers side to match.

Have someone measure it when you're sitting in the driver's seat (sit in it and have them roll you back and forth to settle the suspension before measuring it).  That may even it out.  Mine sits high on the driver's side when empty by choice.  Yours may be there by luck!  When you sit in it, everything might even out!!

Gordon

The Speedstah Guy from rain-soaked Grafton

Looking forward to seeing you at Carlisle!