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Information on rear suspension for Beck/TR Spyder

FM Former Member
Gentlemen and Ladies,
I'm a new Spyder owner who purchased a Phase III kit from TR. I just completed the front suspension and am moving on to the rear suspension. Can any Beck/TR owners supply me with photos, a description or a drawing of how the rear spring plates are retained against the rear torsion bars? As I understand it, the proprietary bushing that TR supplied goes on the inside of the torsion tube and a standard "Knobby" VW bushing goes on the outboard side of the adjustable spring plates. I bought standard VW spring plate caps but there is a significant gap between the holes in cap and the four holes in the frame (about an inch or more.) Is that correct? If so, there a set of tubes/spacers that should go on the bolts that hold the spring plate caps onto the frame?
Does any of this make sense?
Any help here will be appreciated.
Jim Preuss,
Webster Groves, MO
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FM Former Member
Gentlemen and Ladies,
I'm a new Spyder owner who purchased a Phase III kit from TR. I just completed the front suspension and am moving on to the rear suspension. Can any Beck/TR owners supply me with photos, a description or a drawing of how the rear spring plates are retained against the rear torsion bars? As I understand it, the proprietary bushing that TR supplied goes on the inside of the torsion tube and a standard "Knobby" VW bushing goes on the outboard side of the adjustable spring plates. I bought standard VW spring plate caps but there is a significant gap between the holes in cap and the four holes in the frame (about an inch or more.) Is that correct? If so, there a set of tubes/spacers that should go on the bolts that hold the spring plate caps onto the frame?
Does any of this make sense?
Any help here will be appreciated.
Jim Preuss,
Webster Groves, MO
FM Former Member


Jim,

I used repo IRS spring plate caps, the ones with a hole in the middle. I should have used OEM, but I didn't want to make another trip to the junkyard. The IRS style have spacers welded to the plate so you dont have to use too many washers to take up the space between the cap and the torsion tube plate.

Aaron
FM Former Member
Hello,
What you need to do is cut 4 distance shims for each side, they are about 1/2" - 5/8" in length and the inside diameter being the same size as the bolt, I use steel tubing that is about 5/8" OD, this will hold the caps on without getting in the way of the arms. Let me know if you have any other question, I am the East Coast deaer fot TR.
Regards,
Bill.
FM Former Member
Thanks for the information. I suspected that some kind of shim was required or that I had the wrong parts again. (Earlier, I got two different size spindles -- one early and one late -- and an early pitman arm, which really threw me a curve when I tried to install the tie rod ends.) The build continues!
Jim Preuss,
Webster Groves, MO
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