I'm looking for guidance on how to install the inner door handles on a Spyder. I've got a set from Beck, they have like light-pull chains on them. No instructions.
Any help appreciated.
I'm looking for guidance on how to install the inner door handles on a Spyder. I've got a set from Beck, they have like light-pull chains on them. No instructions.
Any help appreciated.
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Did you look at the CMC build manual and how they hook the handles up? They use the OEM VW rods. You could use aftermarket power door lock solenoids too.
$31 at Walmart - https://tinyurl.com/yc9pop4k
I took a few pictures, it might help. Looks like there is a rod welded to the mechanism to engage the latch, on mine anyway.
Carlos, I really appreciate that effort. Thanks.
Still not understanding this. There's a frickin' chain on mine—along with the rod that's welded on.
The stock door handle is also a welded rod with a 90 on the end that you reach into the void and push down on to pop the door.
Let's start with the basics. How is the hole in the plate this handle's attached to supposed to be oriented?
I'll see if I can get some better shots tomorrow.
My door latch mechanism is mounted vertically, red line, and the handle is horizontal, pointing forward, yellow line. So this makes the latch shown, the drivers side latch. I pull up on the handle to open the door. I don't know if mine has that black plate thing.
But I'll investigate and take better pictures tomorrow.
Ed, I trust you got the pic and video I sent? Mine is just like Carlos' latch, has a welded (stainless?) rod to the handle mechanism. When you lift the handle, the rod pushes down and contacts the door release lever on the latch. No permanent physical connection.
These pictures are a little better. My camera wouldn't focus on the mirror that I was using to be able to see into the door. That black plate does not exist on mine. The fiber glass is thicker in the area where it bolts to the inside of the door though.
OK, I think I get it now. Apparently I was way overthinking this. Thanks a lot you guys.
Ed,
If you have any more trouble, give me a call. The metal plate simply bolts inside the door using the same 2 Alan head bolts that hold the striker to the for jamb area. This allows them to be retro fit without having glass in a plate with studs on a finished car.
The chain simply hooks up to the striker in the same place the pull cable is currently hooked up.
The original car used 2 intertwined springs hooked up the same way as we hook up a chain, I just found the springs didn't work well with the stiffer modern latches like they did on the original 550.
Thanks Carey. Confused again now (pull cable currently...what?). But I'll get out there tomorrow and see it with new eyes.
Finally got back around to the door handles today. Got em sorted to work like Carlos's.This was accomplished by swapping them left for right, taking off the nice thick steel mounting plates, removing the chains and then shimming in and gluing quarter inch-thick fiberglass reinforcement plates behind the handle and mounting bolt (used one to get it to look more like the original; might add the other later if it's janky). Push down to open.
I might still grind the corners off them where they come almost proud of the door voids.
I am pleased to say the door gaps are pretty good and the panels are pretty close to on plane also. Thanks to everyone who contributed advice and photos.
Looks great Ed. You’ll find you will hardly ever use the doors. 😀
Pete
I've always used mine, so your mileage may vary, Ed. Lenny uses his too.
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