hello,
i am in the process of building a vintage speedster to be delivered to the east coast. Is there anyone near the VS headquarters that can do a paid pre purchase inspection for me before its delivered?
Id rather get things sorted before ....it seems like a good idea.
Thank you,
lee
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Smart move - it will save so much aggravation! They will fix it so much faster before its fully paid for - vs after full payment is made. 100 miles clocked on speedo would be very reassuring.
Lee;
Why don't you tell us about your build? It might stimulate some interest from the many qualified folks to do a PPI in the LA area. (I'm not one of them).
Also, FYI, search on here, there is a pre -purchase check list, written by Gordon Nichols.
Thanks!
its an outlaw style with the normal goodies, plus freeway flyer gears, bigger engine, etc. I'm very excited and have done lots of research ( much of it here on this site) regarding vendors and such. I've never seen a replica before and am not familiar with air cooled at all so hence the need to get some eyes on it before delivery. I have heard many good things about vs but understand the pitfalls of hand made cars. Any help is appreciated greatly.
thanks again
Also, if there's input on oil filter options on vs units let me know pls as well. I didn't order anything special in that regard but I can change it at this point. I don't plan on driving it in any real heat if that makes a difference.
thx!
lee
Lee...I would have Kirk install an external oil cooler in the left rear wheel well with an oil filter and a Mocal sandwich oil cooler bypass. Kirk installs these coolers all the time but he likes to put them up in the void area between the rear seat wall and the firewall. It's an OK area but not as effective for cooling and a pain to work on if you have oil leaks. It's a given that you will have a few leaks with these cars. When will your car be ready ?..........Bruce
make sure the paint is correct color, just dont say for instance "stone grey" have him spray test card for U to view, insist on him checking trans fluid and steering box fluid...mine were half full:{ also if getting Nardi wheel look at pic of it before shipping, Kirks Nardi wheel interpretation is not even close to reality..
Lee posted:Thanks!
its an outlaw style with the normal goodies, plus freeway flyer gears, bigger engine, etc.
You haven't told us anything! How are we supposed to get excited over that description? Words like "normal goodies, bigger engine", and using the word "etc"- we need details! Details, I tell you!
PS- On a (slightly) more serious note, listen to Bruce- the extra cooler being up between the engine and passenger compartments will preheat the air going to the engine, which is exactly what you don't want to do with an aircooled engine! The left rear fenderwell (along with the filter, which shouldn't be an option, it's a necessity) is the right place. If you need further explanation, ask. And if the engine is 2 liters or bigger, do the cooler.
What Bob said about the color is common sense; you need to see a sample, or you may be very disappointed when you take posession. And having to insist on the transaxle and steering box fluid levels (and all the other details) be checked before delivery shouldn't be an issue, but it is, unfortunately.
You should have someone dropping in and taking progress pictures too. Better to make any changes early on. For example, "difficult" to add full flow oil filtering to an already built and installed engine. Building a 1915 cc engine with a stock cam is waste of $$ (and requires complete tear down to swap out.)
Ha! I get it about getting excited about the car details but I'm that guy who doesn't want to find out whether the baby is a boy or girl! Trust me once I get it I'll post many pics of it. I will tell Kirk about the filter, again thank you folks! My delivery isn't until the spring as its heading into winter in mass and I wouldn't want delivery in the snow and salt etc.
it it does have 5 lugs wheels with the drum shins, vintage style radio, no side trim or rocker trim, louvered trunk( or hood I get confused!). Like I said I've never seen one up close, there surely aren't many around here.
regards
lee
There are about 10 members in Boston area - go to MEMBERS then Sort by and select MAP. You can hone in on state/city and see member names. You really need to sit/drive one. So many buy one and are very disappointed and sell at a loss with very few miles on car. They are expecting a modern car and it is not. Most here would recommend buying a sorted used one before jumping in with both feet. Your driving season is not very long in Boston.
No trim will look great! and it's a louvered engine lid (trunk is so obviously wrong and American cars have hoods). Greg (Wolfgang)'s suggestion of having someone take some progress pics (sorry, but I'm 12 or 1300 miles away) is a great idea, and if you post the engine specs we can help you avoid any pitfalls or mismatch of parts. Again, as Greg said, a 1915 with a stock cam would be a bit of a waste...
And Greg's suggestion (you're really hittin' it on all cylinders today, Greg!
) to get in and drive one of these ancient technical wonders (we are talking 60-80 year old technology here, so if you've never been in or driven a VW Beetle, dune buggy, or 356 Porsche you're in for a surprise) is a very good idea as his words "are expecting a modern car and it is not" and "so many buy one and are very disappointed and sell at a loss with very few miles on (the) car" is true more often than people care to admit. Al
Lee: What town are you in?
I live in Grafton, just SE of Worcester in the notch between I-90 and RT 146.
I drive a CMC speedster I built in the 1990's. Will be leading a group from Bellingham, MA, to the Vanilla Bean Cafe in Pomfret, CT on Wednesady, if you can get away. Should have 14-16 cars there, originals and replicas, mixed.
Lee--check your private messages---I just posted one for you.
Filter and cooler in wheel well.
It is a major pain up behind the firewall!
Thank you folks so much! I just sent an email with the oil filter mods. Gordon, I live in Boston and will try to make it to that for sure. I'm not worried about the driving aspect of the car as I grew up driving anything and everything so anything on wheels I consider somewhat of s blessing of sorts!
thank you too jack I will try that gentleman.
enjoy your Sunday!
Btw I am getting a 1915 cc engine, which cam should I have installed?
There will be many suggestions on this and you really need to go over this with the engine builder.
Depends on what you are using for carbs heads etc. For 041 heads and dual 34's I use a Engle 110 cam w/ lightened flywheel and a decent exhaust.
That's a multi part question-
If using stock valve (35x32mm) heads- with dual single barrels (kadrons or ict's)- Engle W100 or W110. Even with the 110 the idle may seem a little lopey, as with the single barrel carbs it's idling on only 2 cylinders. A friend told me that extending the plenum lower (making it bigger) in the manifolds will allow it to idle on all 4 cylinders and be "smoother" at idle and above. I'll have ask how far down to go. With the W100 expect the engine to rev to about 5,000rpm with power, and the W110 will allow it to go to 55-5700rpm peak.
Properly porting the stock valve heads would be beneficial, although not so much with the W100; with the W110 the engine will definitely respond better and make more power through the midrange and top end. 1.25:1 rockers will work here, making a little more upper midrange/top end as well. And 40mm IDF's, HPMX's or Dellortos would make it run smoother throughout the rpm range (and maybe even get a little better mileage). At this point it will make power to about 6,000rpm.
You could, with ported stock valve heads, dual 2 barrels and 1.25 rockers use a W120; it will rev to 62-6300rpm and be a heck of a lot of fun!
The hp difference here is not huge; the W100 with single barrel carbs and stock heads will make 85-90 hp, with the W110 90-95, add another 2 or 3 (or 4) with the 1.25's, and with the ported heads, 1.25's, W120 and IDF's (or Dell's, or HPMX's) 105? 110?
Any of these combo's will provide a nice engine with decent power that's easy to drive around town and get decent mileage (as long as your foot's not in it all the time!
).
What it boils down to- how much money do you have? Because if you have lots, a 2180 or 2276 with some 40x35 heads would be so much more fun!
Al
BARNCOBOB- the same thing happened to me the trans oil was very low. I had to pump 60 oz of fluid before dripping over the fill hole. BTY, I need to check and potentially fill the steering box; reviewing the general VW manual doesn't give any details..
Michael B (aka bluespeedster SoCal) posted:BARNCOBOB- the same thing happened to me the trans oil was very low. I had to pump 60 oz of fluid before dripping over the fill hole. BTY, I need to check and potentially fill the steering box; reviewing the general VW manual doesn't give any details..
if I remember its similar to the tranny, fill till it runs out..believe it was straight 90W, good time to take major ground wire connection off and clean up
I'm playing around down in Mexico for a couple months and will be back in Pasadena in Dec. I may be interested in checking out your vehicle prior to shipping using Gordon's great and thorough check list. I have used it and did find a couple things amiss. It's a 35 min drive to VS for me. I also have a VS and have found Kirk to be very cooperative. By the way, your car will be delivered with one of my trim accessories. Kirk now uses them on all his production cars. Let me know.........Bruce
ALB posted:That's a multi part question-
- - - - - - -
- - - - - - -
Any of these combo's will provide a nice engine with decent power that's easy to drive around town and get decent mileage (as long as your foot's not in it all the time!
What it boils down to- how much money do you have? Because if you have lots, a 2180 or 2276 with some 40x35 heads would be so much more fun!
Al
Al has made some good points about the engine size but I would add that whatever it may cost, get nothing less than a 2110cc engine with duel 40 carburetors. Also, after the car has been painted get Kirk to allow the body to sit untouched for a couple of weeks so the primer and paint can properly cure before ANY external parts are added to the car such as body trim, license plate light, etc. And since you are going Outlaw style, consider having Kirk install a set of Vintage Motor's new light weight 190 aluminum performance wheels rather than steel wheels. 
Cliff
@Lee- You'll notice I didn't recommend 40x35mm heads in any of the 1915 combos in my last post, and there's a reason- properly ported stock valve heads will make 120-125 hp if done right, and in a smaller than 2 liter engine going beyond that takes more rpm's (6500-7,000) than we normally want to turn for a street engine that has to perform well throughout the rpm range and stay a jump in and drive anywhere combo. Intake ports that are too big will not have enough velocity at lower rpms, gas will fall out of suspension and the resulting lean mix will create a bit of a "soggy" bottom end (and possibly lower midrange), and as this is where we do most of our driving, it's generally best to have heads matched to the engine so it makes the most power possible throughout the whole rpm range and not just the top 1,000 (or so) rpm. Mileage will also be down- not a big thing, I know, as these are play cars and most guys don't put huge mileage on theirs, but when dealing with a 10 gal. (US) tank, having the most range possible is nice when driving longer distances.
You can build a larger than 2 liter with 40x35 heads, 140-160 hp (or 42x37 heads and even more power!) and has a killer torque curve (your car will truly rip! ), but that's another discussion altogether. Remember I asked you how much money ya got?
PS- If you're going original wide 5 (5x205mm) wheel pattern, listen to Cliff and spring for the aluminum wheels. They're 10lbs. lighter (per wheel!) and removing unsprung weight is THE BEST place to do it on your car!
Yoda out (for now, but back you know I will be!)
Well as far as budget I'm just about there now....and I can always upgrade own the road once I get the feel of the car. Anyway, you guys are great, thanks for all the tips...much appreciated!!!!! I'll check on those wheels too, I just looked them up and they look great.
lee
Lee posted:Well as far as budget I'm just about there now....and I can always upgrade own the road once I get the feel of the car. Anyway, you guys are great, thanks for all the tips...much appreciated!!!!! I'll check on those wheels too, I just looked them up and they look great.
lee
Don't get in the middle of the road-- you'll get smashed there.
In my opinion (everybody is entitled to my opinion), if you're out of money-- I'd spend it where Kirk is strongest, not where he's weakest. Get the aluminum wheels with drum-skins. Get square-weave carpet. Get leather or the vinyl Al Merklin likes.
Don't spend extra for Kirk's engine choices. Run the 1600 until you can afford a nice engine from a real builder. A 2110 from Pat Downs or Blackline Racing is going to be money much better spent than a 1914 with stock heads.
Oh, Stan, thank you for the such sage advice. Buy to the sellers strengths.
I'm a long way from, moving it up. But I won't forget this advice.
art
Stan has nailed it
Get leather or the vinyl Al Merklin likes. ( Alante') looks and feels like a soft leather .
I Vote for the Vintage Motors alloy wide 5s. Crappy chrome Chinese wide 5s are $81 each (CIP1) - the alloy wheels are $159) - so only $80 each more. Delete the hub caps and add the wheel skinz later and its a complete wash.
Great advice folks!
i did the aluminum wheels as recommended, and will probably get the stock motor until I get used to the car and then maybe upgrade down the road. I'm planning on taking a trip there at some point because I have other business in Cali as well I can tend to. I liken this whole car hobby as being an expensive way to meet great people!!!��
2 more questions:
Pros and cons of "hood straps"
Pros and cons of the gt vs reg Chrome mirrors pls
I have been researching the engine question, and my guess is Ill get the standard engine and if I love the car...a few years down the road I'll upgrade. I know it would be better now but Im almost maxed out. It seems the 2110, headers, etc is the way to go and Ill probably ask Kirk about that unless he will let me upgrade a separately built engine and send to him Im not sure how they do that aspect there at Vintage.
Thx!!!
Hood straps are entirely personal taste - they add 8 holes to body and potentially clanking belt. Hoods all have a safety catch in addition to normal catch so not functional. Easy to add a set of Dusty Johnson's straps later --- costly to remove ones installed though.
Hood straps probably go with the GT mirrors - but most don't work as well as the standard Chrome Aero mirrors. The GT mirrors could probably be added later over the Aero mirror holes - but not the other way around. There are cheap Aero mirrors that rust in 2 years and there are quality (Stoddard) ones that last 5 years. Aero give better visibility if placed right with concave on passenger's side)
So a 1915 cc engine, I'd at least go for a minimum - better than stock cam (Engle 110) and heads that breath with bigger than stock valves. And I'd go with an A1 exhaust. I'd have engine block drilled and tapped for full flow filter. I'd add at least a remote filter - I'd do oil cooler too just for extra oil capacity. All total maybe $1200-1500 upgrade costs for materials (labor same except for oil filter/cooler).
Forgot your location - is heat a concern (heater boxes)? AC a requirement? Classic tear drop or beehive rear lights? Louver rear engine lid can't add much ($200) but go well with GT mirrors and hood straps - I'd do either way as costly to add later (new lid and paint). I like look of bumper over-riders on classic car but nerf bars on flared.
Thx Wolfgang, I'm in Boston and I do have:
-beehives, louvered deck lid, it's silver with red gut, no bumpers outlaw style
I'll check on heat I wouldn't need ac really. I'll mention those engine upgrades!!,!
ill probably do one gt mirror, the jury's still out on the straps...I like both setups.
Appreciate the input.
Lee: Welcome to the Madness. All this talk of "What should I include in the build?" is just part of the madness. If you go with a 1915cc engine with a pair of 40mm Webers or Dellortos (preferred) and an Engle 120 cam and decide to upgrade later on to a 2,110, then you can re-use a lot of the original engine peripherals, including the carbs. Unfortunately, I can't come in to Beantown and give you a ride, as my car has a semi-massive gas leak in one carb. I'm waiting on parts from CB and should be back on the road in a week or so.
I've never been a big fan of hood straps - 'nuff said. If you call "GT" mirrors the same as "Bullet-Style" mirrors, then it totally depends on the rest of the exterior trim - wheel choice, extent of side trim, stance, etc. Hard to describe, but they all either lend to the overall "look" or they don't. I have a mild outlaw and chose to go with the Aero-style mirrors as a way of bringing the classic look forward into the outlaw world, along with the lowered top and a few other touches. The end result looks like this:
Humm - I took these as GT mirrors? They are difficult to position to give decent rear vision.
Not difficult at all and I can see just fine with mine...Hood straps look cool but then you have unbuckle them and re-buckle them at every gas station. Can be added later if you like the look.
WOLFGANG posted:Hood straps are ...... heads that breath with bigger than stock valves.... I'd do oil cooler too just for extra oil capacity......
A couple of few comments- Most of it (hood straps, type of mirrors, trim or not, bumpers or nerf bars, bullet or teardrop taillights etcetcetc...) is how you envision your creation, and as Stan has said, it's a big tent and there's room for all of us (or something to that effect). What you do as to how it looks is up to you, and you're the only one that matters.
As to building a 1915- if you're designing the engine to rev to 6500 or 7,000rpm with power then bigger valve heads are appropriate, but for an engine this size that revs to 5500 or 6,000rpm ported stock valve (35x32mm) heads are the right size, as they are capable of 120-125hp (the engine will make 100-110hp), with the smaller displacement will give better airspeed through the intake ports at lower rpms so the air/fuel mixture will stay in suspension, the engine will make better power throughout the rpm range (and not just the top 500 or 1,000rpm), it will be much more driveable into the lower and mid midrange (where you will spend so much of your time on the street) and get slightly better mileage to boot. The better mileage thing isn't super important, but it tells you the engine combination is functioning at it's best...
Although 1900cc's or 2 liters is generally the point where an extra cooler starts to come in handy for hotter times, be clear that it oil in an auxilliary cooler and/or full flow filter does not add extra oil capacity to the sump! Any aircooled VW engine driven spiritedly (even a bone stocker) needs more oil capacity, only oil right in the sump is available to the pump for lubrication, and adding sump capacity is done by bolting on a 1 1/2, 3, or 4 quart deep sump.
Back to our regularly scheduled programming....
(and sorry, Tebs; it's more than 2 paragraphs, but I had a lot to say!)
Yoda out (for now, but back you know I will be!)
P.s.
wh0 is dusty Johnson?
Never mind thanks just googled it
