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Can anyone tell me what modifications need to be done necessary to install an original 356 or 912 motor? Below are just a few items that need to be done but planning on doing this for my next car and if anyone knows all that goes in to play, that would be helpful.

On top of the engine you will need a special flywheel, the generator will need to be rebuilt as a 12 volt and there will be other changes necessary to fit it in.
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Can anyone tell me what modifications need to be done necessary to install an original 356 or 912 motor? Below are just a few items that need to be done but planning on doing this for my next car and if anyone knows all that goes in to play, that would be helpful.

On top of the engine you will need a special flywheel, the generator will need to be rebuilt as a 12 volt and there will be other changes necessary to fit it in.
The milage motor i built for mne is a 356 b super 90 wanabe. its a aluminum case 74 stroke 87 bore with los bandidos heads ported with the Eagle cheater cam Piston were the only specal order parts
I did that to move the wristpins up for the stroke change. I made the deck a schose lower to knock back the compression. for 87 octane. Not A BIGGER ENGINE BUT OK HEY AND PRETTY NICE GAS MILEAGE

It went together like a stock 1600 No clyinder shims no special push rods But I did use the solid race rocker shafts but with stock rockers It gives you a simple but perky engine that has a nice sound simular to a 356. Not as much pop But nice.

A bigger bore or longer stroke will heLp put one in the 4 cammer sound zone but they dont last long if you play hard..
I would like to plain such a engine trying very hard to keep it basicly simple build for all of us. as big as you can go and have reliability and a long engine life. I know a tall order
I came in under $3,000.oo on the build.

Ah! Your right But they were listed by Koflap a 87mm. but measure up appox, 86.5 or so which is the same as the 356 ,, If I was told corectly?

I did spring for a set of H bean race rods 504 something .Its been a while. But the engine did good going to Mount Mitchel and Asheville last year so, Im not complaining.

I did use stock paper shim gaskets under the jugs. as I said the pistons were custom made and the wrist pin hole moved to compensate for the shim, the combustion chamber, the rods, and the piston clearance. It was close enough to uese stock push rods and rockers. I have a spec sheet somewhere But not being a paying member in a while. I cant post it to my photos.

I had the custom shop do the math for the stroke the deck and the combustion chamber for a 7.5.1 spec. I asked for their help . I wanted it as close as possable. If it had been off I could have then added the corect thickness of a shim to correct. there was a chance I could had higher compression than expected. The longer top dead center dwell caused by moving the wrist pins up was questionable? But it.s right so no problem.

If I were to build another I would like to go bigger on the bore. But how big is to big,for the type 4 oil cooler on a type one engine,Under nearly stock fan shroud and tin. I HATE external hoses.

I would only add a remote oil cooler system if it was a low preasure secondary system with a pick up near the bottom stump and return on the top of the case seperate from the factory setup. useing a tilton pump
Sorry But no I need to take some shots of it..for ya..Sunday will be pretty..I will see what i get..

But fill free to ask questions I will try to give you some good Ideas

I did note your oil return on the fuel location with a block off plate.. HUMMM Now if I can figure out a neat place for a oil pickup that can't get snagged by road debre.
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