Installing cooling tins help needed

My next project is installing cooling tins. Other than the fan shroud, there is no tins on the car. I can look down and see the ground and tranny. Since this car is on a metalcraft frame, I'm wondering if stock tins will fit. Would stock tins be at least a good start and modify from there or would it be better just to start from sratch and make templates?

I think Uncle Gordon has templates.

The shroud mounts to the pieces covering the plug and cylinder fins so you are only missing the "breast plate" by the trans and the rear apron piece. They will give you a straight edge to butt up to.

Yes, Grasshopper...you NEED those heat shields, as well as a complete set of engine tins, air vanes in the fan shroud and the thermostat to work them.

I have a pair of templates for heat shields for a CMC, and they attach to the body sub-frame so they should work with your metalcraft pan/frame, too. I also seem to have recently acquired a full set of original, CMC, Fiberglass heat shields which I may be able to find and compare to my templates (wouldn't THAT be a hoot?)

Anyway, shoot me an email and I'll tell you more about my templates, but, basically, they're made of craft paper and are full size. You get some HVAC galvanized sheet metal, use the templates to mark the metal to cut out the shapes you need for top and bottom and then make additional cuts for bumper mount holes and mounting points.

Shoot me an email and I'll tell you how to get them. All I charge is for the mailing sleeve and postage. ($5 bucks)

Gordon

While Gordon's templates are great (I have his templates), I don't believe they will resolve your dilemma with the metalcraft chassis. If you want to contact me ( jpwiley@earthlink.net ), I can supply you with a slew of photos of my sealing tins I used on my Metalcraft. They may give you some ideas for yours. You basically have to build a deep tray around the engine within the the Metalcraft rear frame rails, which are located much higher than were the CMC rails, as well as being dimensionally different. And of course, the rear fender shields fit inside those rails.

When you get started, especially if you're not the fabrication type, try doing a cut and clean job on a piece of scrap first.
Gordon's idea of working with duct metal is a good one for someone who's done it before, but a decent 4' by 8' sheet of 16-gauge aluminum is only about $100 or so.
"Only," a hundred bucks is relative, but there's enough width to make the entire apron piece (the side-to-side measurement won't exceed 48" at any point) and any other fitment pieces all out of the same sheet with plenty of fudge factor.
It is imperative that you get good with heavy-duty scissors and cardboard first. The cardboard will allow you to make mistakes, fix them and move on to another template without cutting up a bunch of good metal. Transfer your lines directly to the aluminum with a Sharpie, and erase any fudge lines when you're done with red Brakleen. For corners that need to be rounded, use the top of the Brakleen can as the curve template; you'll be able to follow them with the jig saw.
Tools will include that jig saw, an air line and compressor, a hand-held pneumatic wheel that'll hold a Scotchbrite pad, a load of flat cardboard, duct tape and one Sharpie. I'd suggest using the Scotchbrite disc on the top and bottom of your cut edges to reduce burring, and then a perpendicular buffing on the cut edge to smooth that out, too.
It's not as hard as it seems. Just fiddle with a small project first.
If I can do it, anybody can. Good luck!

Bob:

Check out John's photos first to see if you can gin something up from them and then let me know what you want to do. Can't see spending a fin to get mine if they're not going to help. Using John's shots and Cory's ideas should be enough to get you there.

If not, let me know....

gn