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Maybe A few of you may be interested in this. I wanted to install a suitable roll bar but I have learned that I wouldn't be able to raise my top over it so I made the bar removable. First i located the 2" square tubing below the floor in the rear "luggage" space and cut a 4' hole in the fiberglass. This allows me a safe margin to weld the 2" round tube to the square tube below. The 2" round tube has a notch cut into one end to make a tab and  allow me to weld a portion of the tube down on the side of the square tube frame. This gives me substantially more strength in the weld joint. You can see this in the blurry photo. Also this area is accessible for welding when the wheel is removed. In the third photo (0007) I epoxied the 4" hole cut out back in to tidy up my invasion for welding. The next photo shows the two tubing stubs sticking up out of the floor so now it was time to reinstall the carpet by cutting to allow the stubs to poke up out of the carpet.

The next photo shows removable sheet metal surrounding the stub to protect the carpet from welding sparks when I welded the mounting flanges to the stubs. Once the flange is welded on the sheet metal is removed and it's done as shown in the last photo. When finished, these mounting flanges interfere very little with the "luggage " space behind the seats

Each flange has 3/8" nuts welded on the bottom where the 4 holes are drilled. This allows me to easily bolt in the roll bar which has matching flanges welded to it's bottom extremities.

I built a wooden mock up roll bar to get the height right and to locate/index where I will install the diagonal braces which reach forward to similar mounts located on the outboard side frames next to the seats.

This job took a day to do. Mostly due to measuring and insuring location of everything (a hundred timed it seems) to make sure I didn't screw up something else or the job itself. So this is my "maddness" for now ??

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Interesting way of approaching it, Bruce. I've thought of mounting the main hoop closer to the seats (I think that's the way most guys do it) and taking supports back and tying into the shock mounts or frame horns. Are you going to make the top of the bar flat or with a slight curve? A slight curve looks a little more in keeping with the lines of the car.

 

 

 

 

356 Speedster Carrera

1958 Speedster SCCA racer rear view

Speedster- look at the curve on the top of the roll bar!

kafer bar and roll bar mounts

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Images (4)
  • 356 Speedster Carrera
  • 1958 Speedster SCCA racer rear view
  • Speedster- look at the curve on the top of the roll bar!
  • kafer bar and roll bar mounts

ALB....I really like your suggestion about the slight curve in the bar at the top. You should see how dorky my wooden mock up looks with squared off corners ! I also really like the way you integrated your truss bars /roll bar mounts...really nice !

Installing a truss bar is my next project. I'm having difficulty visualizing how I will get the vertical bar in around the heater box on the starter side. I may have to wait until I do a trial fit of the engine. There isn't any way to install a bar straight across from shock to shock in my VS because of the "luggage" box being in the way so I'll have to mount it further back. Another fun challenge but it beats watching TV or just vegetatin.....Bruce

You really don't want your roll bar too close to the seats.  In even a minor collision there could be a very good chance your head would make contact with the roll bar.

 

Personally, I wouldn't trust a roll bar with just two mounting point.  In a roll over the bar could fold over like a mouse trap.

Last edited by Ron O

i know it's already done (and it's cool idea), but in your first pic the weld looks like it didn't penetrate much, if at all on the tube (more juice, less wire needed).  I'd just hate for you to need that roll bar and have that weld pop off.  could just be angle of the picture.

 

you clearly know what you are doing, so take this with a grain of salt.

 

i love fabrication stuff

Last edited by MangoSmoothie.ca

To Ron...Both good points ! Hence, it's mounted back far enough to give me clearance with my helmet on but not too far back that I get neck snap before my helmet hits the bar. When the bar is in I will be wearing a helmet. (drags and autocross). There will be diagonal braces,front to rear and side to side when finished. I'll post photos when it's totally done so you can see.

To Mango (love your handle) I use a Miller 210 MIG set on 3 with 30 feed speed with .035 wire. Both metals to be joined are 1/8 thickness. This is a setting for 3/16 material thickness  but i like to slow down the feed speed and spend a little more time heating the material up along with a little more build up. That's probably why it looks a little shaky on penetration. It's also welded on the inside of the tube as well and this is done while all the metal is still hot. This way, there's less chance of burn thru because I'm welding back up against the fillet on the outside. Yup, it would really suck if it failed but I'm pretty confident that it won't. I too, love to fabricate stuff and this car is giving me plenty of new opportunities. I put myself to sleep thinking about the next challenge.............Bruce

Love your concept, Bruce.

 

I was thinking of trying something similar on my TD replica. PO put two, 2-inch pipes through the top of the frame horns to run heat into the tunnel. Thinking of welding 2 x 4 square tube across those and tying it to the shock towers, then building bolt-on mounts like you made atop that. 

 

I'd need to put some metal subframe in the rear of my tub for the bars that would go down to that, and do some kind of mount up near the front passenger floor for the long bar that would meet the hoop on the top in the middle. 

 

That's still only five points--not SCCA spec for hill climb--but would lend some piece of mind if I ever wanted to go to the drags or put her through a fast road course.

 

I'll be interested to see how yours turns out.

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