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In the process of building this old CMC( Fiberfab) speedster, today I did the headlight assembly. 

The instruction manual helped but I was missing the small clips or retainer pieces which hold the

top of the headlight in place.  I used some old, good condition German Hella headlight parts as the chrome is not very lasting on the China aftermarket ones.  Also, I like seeing the Hella brand name on parts. Pictures tell 1000 words, so I will cut this short. The only thing, that might help someone , I found new was using Grease Pencils to mark the fiberglass to know where to trim the fiberglass as needed so the headlight assembly would fit.  Now, I am showing the non-permanent marking pencils in one picture. These are great to use on your fiberglass body. They are found at most hardware stores, like Lowe's in the Tile and Floor department.  Used for marking lines for cuts, on tile, there pencils really helped me install all the misc. lights on my speedster, as the body needed to be cut for light assemblies.  You can mark as much as you want to with these "tile" pencils and wipe the lines off with only your fingers.  Just a great product for use to mark anything on the fiberglass body.  Next find was with missing top headlight retainer clip, I found these stainless steel pieces at a local marine shop. The picture shows the package and there was two, as needed, stainless steel, made in Taiwan.  These are used as vents somewhere on boats and had two holes I could use for riveting them to the body and one tab, I bent, as shown, to hold the top of the headlight in the body buckets.  Note, had to grind off lots of fiberglass for the headlight assembly to fit into the body.  Also, used a section I saved from cutting Chrome moly push rods, as spacers between the bottom of the headlight assembly and the body with stainless steel hardware.  I sanded and painted the headlight metal with high heat aluminum paint.  The stuff resist oil and gasoline and holds up good.  I cleaned the park light sockets with sand paper and tested the light assembly to be sure the park lights would work. Used halogen headlights, which should be good enough for night driving.  The tile pencils and marine piece really made doing this work easier. One more item which helped was the metal rotary file, not rasp, which is strong enough steel and $50 cost, I can grind off metal and grinding off the fiberglass for fitting the headlight assembly was made easier with that drill file.  I had already drilled the 1/2 inch hole in he bottom of the headlight bucket, as the instructions showed.  Someone at the speedster manufacture place did the fiberglass work to install the headlight bucket and got that off by about 15 degrees, causing the right side headlight to not be perfectly at the 12 and 6 o'clock position. Grinding on the fiberglass bucket helped some to clear up that manufactured mistake. 

Keeping old VW's running like new .   Past National drag racing record holder.

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Original Post

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Looks like what most of us have had to go through doing our cars, too.  There was nothing "standard" about a CMC body or kit - It seemed like everything had to be modified or messed with to get it "right".  and once CMC became "Street Beasts", their quality control and overall part design get even worse!!

 

If you have the clearance and want to dress off the headlight chrome rim against the car, there are a couple of different headlight-to-body rubber gaskets available to do the job.

 

One version is shaped like an "L" and works OK (I think that's the Porsche version), but the other version is shaped like a "T" and seems to make a nicer seal and stays put after installation better.

 

Here's a link to Mid-America, but I suppose those from CIP1 or whomever would work just as well.  You may have to mess with the clearance around the rim to get it not-too-tight, not-too-loose to hold it in place properly, but that's easy to do:

 

http://www.mamotorworks.com/VW...ght-to-fender-355094

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Okay, answered under CMC assembly build or 1641cc engine for sale, by mistake,

but like the advice given. One thing I don't know if already discussed with regard

to headlights, is on most new wiring harness I have seen, they do not use the proper gage wire going to the headlights. VW found the need for an eight amp fuse for hi and low beams, on each headlight plus 10ga. wires. Two fuses for each headlight. 

 Maybe, 12 gage, but bigger

than the 14 or 16 gage I see on new headlight connectors you can buy at auto part

stores or what I have seen on the new wiring harness from various suppliers.  I question if the smaller gage wire is enough to carry  the amps or current required

by the headlights and more so, if using higher wattage rated bulbs, like halogen or H4's.  14 and 16 gage seems too small .  That size was used by VW and Porsche for tail lights, not headlights.  Talking about 12V systems. 

 

The larger the wire diameter, the less resistance there is for current and less heat build up , in the wires. 

Yup, any of the headlight re-wiring kits I've seen (Painless Wiring comes to mind) all have 10 ga wire going from the relay to the headlights, with a SHORT 10 ga (8, if you can find it) from the relay through the fuse to the battery.

 

Painless has some really nice conversion kits for H4 bulbs with the wiring all done for you for $50-$80 bucks - a bit of money, for something that doesn't take a lot of time to fab up but, you'll only save about 20% under their cost when you're done.  Here's their kit for comparison:

 

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/30815

Originally Posted by Robert McEwen:

George,

 

I re-wired my headlights with relays and heavier gauge wires and vastly improved my lighting.  Here's a link to what I did:

 

https://www.speedsterowners.com...light-wiring-upgrade

I put relays up front near the battery and into the headlights and the delivered voltage went from 9.8v to 12. something. Huge improvement.

Last edited by David Stroud IM Roadster D
Originally Posted by Gordon Nichols - Massachusetts 1993 CMC:

Yup, any of the headlight re-wiring kits I've seen (Painless Wiring comes to mind) all have 10 ga wire going from the relay to the headlights, with a SHORT 10 ga (8, if you can find it) from the relay through the fuse to the battery.

 

Painless has some really nice conversion kits for H4 bulbs with the wiring all done for you for $50-$80 bucks - a bit of money, for something that doesn't take a lot of time to fab up but, you'll only save about 20% under their cost when you're done.  Here's their kit for comparison:

 

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/30815

That H4 conversion wiring kit has gone up to a low of $180.00 and a high of almost $280.00 at most of the online stores. That's why I ended up doing it myself.  I knew I wasn't going to spend that much on wire and relays. 

Ouch, on price for H4's. I spent $15 for each Halogen bulb. No relays are needed if using the stock headlights. I do like using the horn relay and have a relay for the start system and one for third brake light, so not wiping out my small wires going to the two brake lights already on the car. I also use a loud commercial back up alarm which needs a relay. That one back up light should confuse other drivers, we have on the speedster. Unless you put on the neat 1967 VW Bug back up lights on the rear bumpers.
The cheap Halogen headlights on my 1970 Bug are bright enough at night. I am using the same set up on my speedster, with added 55 watt driving lights under the bumper. No relay needed on headlights, but on the driving lights, they come with a relay. I like the idea of buying relays at a stereo shop. I have not thought about that and O'Reilly charges about $5 to $6 per relay. I do use many , mostly to take the load off of old dash or column ignition switches, going to the starter solenoid. I read the May topic on wiring. Some good information contained in that thread.
Originally Posted by George4888:
Ouch, on price for H4's. I spent $15 for each Halogen bulb. No relays are needed if using the stock headlights. I do like using the horn relay and have a relay for the start system and one for third brake light, so not wiping out my small wires going to the two brake lights already on the car. I also use a loud commercial back up alarm which needs a relay. That one back up light should confuse other drivers, we have on the speedster. Unless you put on the neat 1967 VW Bug back up lights on the rear bumpers.

That price I put in the above post was for a conversion kit to run really bright H4 style bulbs like the Silverstars.  If you just add the 50/55 watt H4 bulbs and Hella Lenses you shouldn't need to upgrade the wiring.

 

I did the wiring myself with relays and went from 500 Lumens to over 1000 Lumens with the same bulbs.

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