I know this topic has come up before..sorry but could not find it in the search engine...Can anyone provide me a way to attach the Porsche script emblem to the rear of the car without having to drill holes (that scares me if you know what I mean)? Could not fine a vendor who sells the emblem by sticking with double back tape either. any suggestions?
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U got the"fever" thats for sure
I believe one of our members used this website and had great success:
https://www.adhesivetemplates.com
You can Dremel the locating pins off flush then get outdoor (or emblem quality at auto paint shop) 3M double sided adhesive tape and painstakingly cut it to the script. Use alcohol on car to clean off any wax and apply.
I used the pins and drilled into the fiberglass and then used super glue or silicon to seal pins in holes.
I clip off the pins leaving 2 as securing points and shaping a few small pieces of 3M double sided tape with a blade.
I used a Dremel to grind off the mounting posts, then used an emblem adhesive (from a local auto parts store) to secure the emblems. Hobby Lobby (and similar stores) carry a variety of adhesives too. Layed painter’s tape just below each attachment location as a guide to placement. Easy, and worked like a champ. Just make sure that whatever adhesive or epoxy you use doesn’t also contain a solvent.
Try ‘emblem placement’ in search on this site for some great guidance as to correct placement specifics and a variety of mounting options. Good luck!
Robert M posted:I believe one of our members used this website and had great success:
https://www.adhesivetemplates.com
Sorry, I tried this website ...it does not offer the adhesive for the PORSCHE script
I have ordered/used this two sided emblem tape before. Worked great.
https://sierramadrecollection....ive-Tape-p18394.html
Newbie Danny Nipomo Ca. ('18 VS Arizona) posted:Robert M posted:I believe one of our members used this website and had great success:
https://www.adhesivetemplates.com
Sorry, I tried this website ...it does not offer the adhesive for the PORSCHE script
I ordered one from this company recently. They do not list the item on their site. Had to call.
They will make a template for any emblem. They say they can do it from a photo of the emblem next to a ruler but I preferred to give them my Speedster emblem to use.
They provided great service at a great price.
In half the time that it would take to pack the emblem into a box, address it and drive to the Post Office, you could have clipped off all but two of the emblem studs, marked the mounting position with tape, drilled the two holes and stuck it to the car with a 3M emblem tape. Just my .02
Lfepardo posted:I have ordered/used this two sided emblem tape before. Worked great.
https://sierramadrecollection....ive-Tape-p18394.html
I use something similar to this by 3M. Strong stuff and easy to work with. My Speedsters emblems haven't moved an inch...
The heavier emblems on the dash use something different (heavier holding power and clear since it is a little thicker)...
Just got one half of my new emblems installed today and did it the easy way. Apply some masking tape to the desired area and mark out a level line where the pins will go for the emblem. Dremel off all emblem pins except one at each end. Center the emblem into position and push on it where the pins are to make marks on the tape.
Use a straight edge and put it against the car to note how much curve the emblem will need and bend the emblem into that curve. Take a look at the locator pins and see if they are indeed perpendicular to the row of emblem letters. One of my "Porsche" emblems had a pin on it which was not perpendicular and I had to elongate one hole in the car sideways a bit to accommodate the flaw.
I drill rather slowly in reverse first through the tape a bit into the fiberglass, then drill the remainder of the hole in forward. Easy to do. I then dry fit the emblem. When all is fitting nicely I remove the tape, clean the car and back of the emblem with laquer thinner. My adhesive of choice is the readily available Shoe Goo...available most anywhere. Clear, very sticky and waterproof. After I chamfer the drilled holes in the car with an oversized drill bit by hand, I apply a bit of glue into the holes. Then more adhesive is applied here and there along the back of the letters and the two posts. I press the emblem into position on the car and use a toothpick if necessary to clean out any excess glue that spread out from the back of the lettering. Make sure the emblem is flat against the car everywhere....if it springs out a bit at the pins tape it down. If for some reason the emblem is located fully into the pin holes but the lettering takes a curve, likely your holes need to be tweaked a bit outward. If you feel like it and your pins are long enough, you can add a bit of adhesive inside the car onto the inside end of the pins. Shoe Goo works, period. We're not mounting an engine here.
Well done Mr Stroud !
Wow! I am stoked for you! Nicely done. I will recommend that next time, instead of reversing the drill to position your hole, buy a spring loaded center punch. They are cheap.
I’d be afraid that it would chip the gel coat.
Todd M posted:Wow! I am stoked for you! Nicely done. I will recommend that next time, instead of reversing the drill to position your hole, buy a spring loaded center punch. They are cheap.
You're stoked for me, Todd ? Hmm. Nice for you I guess. I have several spring loaded punches. Nice ones too but not useful in this application. But thanks Todd for your kind advice.
Don't you just love the lump in your throat and the tightness in your rear as you start drilling holes in a painted car?
Good on you getting it done, David.
Just keep it "Manscaped"!
The front of the car has WAY more curve than the rear and is very difficult to install if you are drilling holes. Due to the curve, the holes need to be at an angle, but that creates another problem. Due to the curve, the holes will be further apart on the outer surface and closer together on the inner surface. When the emblem is bent to match the curve of the surface, the tip of the pins will match the distance of the holes at the inner surface, but are too close together to fit the holes on the outer surface. That's when your nightmare begins, ask me how I know.
I highly recommend using the custom emblem adhesive suggested earlier in this thread.
David Stroud posted:Todd M posted:Wow! I am stoked for you! Nicely done. I will recommend that next time, instead of reversing the drill to position your hole, buy a spring loaded center punch. They are cheap.
You're stoked for me, Todd ? Hmm. Nice for you I guess. I have several spring loaded punches. Nice ones too but not useful in this application. But thanks Todd for your kind advice.
Sorry if I offended. I am glad for you. Better? I would have used a spring loaded punch, but it sounds like you know better, (not sarcastic), and I would like to know why so I don't make a mistake someday using a spring punch inappropriately.
No offence taken, Todd. Research shows that the impact of a spring punch may cause the paint or gel coat to chip or crack as may the direct application of a sharp drill going straight in clockwise. Drilling in slowly in reverse at the start through masking tape may minimize the chance of inadvertent damage. YMMV.
Jeeze....this is serious business and I just didn't realize how serious. Please ignore my previous post wherein I made this emblem mounting sound like a straightforward deal. My objective was not to trivialize the process and I now see clearly where I've gone wrong. Me culpa.
Troy aptly notes above that this can be a nightmare to do. Earlier, Longfella recommends the 3M product but says we'll need stronger stuff for the dash emblem because it's heavier. I didn't consider that either.
I always drill when installing the dash script and I use David's method. The dash is simple and very straight forward. The dash script comes with threaded pins, including a small washer and nut. The dash fiberglass on a Vintage or JPS is thin enough to allow the use of the nut and washer on the back side. Piece of cake, at least on Vintage and JPS cars, but I don't know about any of the others.
David Stroud posted:No offence taken, Todd. Research shows that the impact of a spring punch may cause the paint or gel coat to chip or crack as may the direct application of a sharp drill going straight in clockwise. Drilling in slowly in reverse at the start through masking tape may minimize the chance of inadvertent damage. YMMV.
Jeeze....this is serious business and I just didn't realize how serious. Please ignore my previous post wherein I made this emblem mounting sound like a straightforward deal. My objective was not to trivialize the process and I now see clearly where I've gone wrong. Me culpa.
Troy aptly notes above that this can be a nightmare to do. Earlier, Longfella recommends the 3M product but says we'll need stronger stuff for the dash emblem because it's heavier. I didn't consider that either.
Wow. I had no idea either. Thanks for the info.
@Lfepardo posted:I have ordered/used this two sided emblem tape before. Worked great.
https://sierramadrecollection....ive-Tape-p18394.html
So with this tape, zero drilling was needed?
how did it hold up on the front with the curvature?
how did it hold up on the dash with the weight?
It’s been +4 years and my emblems have not moved. (using the Sierra Madre and 3M moulding tapes at different badge locations. (hood, rear, dash)). I didn’t drill… I was afraid to.. I just used a drimmel to remove the badge pegs and mounding tape.
Figured it was cheaper to buy new badges if I got it wrong, than patch/fill/ touch up holes in my paint. ( back then badges were cheaper than today). Generally speaking drilling where paint is concerned is not my strong suit… I have a proven track record of messing up ;-). And I have not seen badges fall off modern cars, so figured mounding tape had to work. For me it has been a successful experiment to date.
I second the use of double sided 3M tape with an exacto knife and 11 blade. The script can be bent to follow curves of the car. Remove pins with dremel. I mounted all badges on my intermeccanica using this method with no issues. I’ll never understand why Henry could not or would not use the Porsche badge pin locations for his IM badges.
https://www.speedsterowners.co...acing-emblems?page=1
Thread from 2015 if interested.
This is another thread about what I used. The company makes adhesive-backed foam to fit your emblems.
@550 Phil posted:I second the use of double sided 3M tape with an exacto knife and 11 blade. The script can be bent to follow curves of the car. Remove pins with dremel. I mounted all badges on my intermeccanica using this method with no issues. I’ll never understand why Henry could not or would not use the Porsche badge pin locations for his IM badges.
Because the emblems have no consistency whatsoever. Each emblem must be fitted individually.
I like my clown cars the way I like my women: drilled! LOL!
I snip off all of the pins but one in the center and grind them down flush with the backside of the emblem and use 3M emblem tape.
I used the service mentioned by Michael above about three and a half years ago. Made adhering the emblem pain-free. It’s still firmly attached.
@Lane Anderson posted:I’d be afraid that it would chip the gel coat.
Yeah. I’d want to use an adjustable one and turn it way down. But I think laying down masking tape and using the pins themselves for making the initial marks is a great idea.
As I’ve posted before, I really like “Bullet” drill bits because of their built in pilot drill.
