I had This question put to me and I'm shrugging?????? Did? or DO ? they make a retainer that fits under the valve spring and over the top of the valve guide to help keep it in place and not allow it to ever move. is their a need for such a thing or would it be a good idea to add them or have some made for him???
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Are you talking about capturing the bottom of the spring or steadying the guide? I know Gene Berg used to weld in material on the heads and then machine in cups so the bottoms of the springs didn't move around as much; he claimed improved spring life as it cut down on the harmonics that affects the springs at higher rpm's. Al
Not what this guy is trying to do. He is trying to prevent his intake valve guides form moving if they are quenched with raw fuel. from a carb malfunction like a dropped ball end off a twin carb engine.. I'm just asking to see if anyone has ever had to deal with this.
The bronze valve guides are pressed into the heads - a very tight fit. I doubt raw fuel pouring in there would cause them to be dislodged. Am I missing something?
Thats a new one on me...... As stated, the press fit is usually more than enough to keep the guides in place..... If one is causing a problem, its replaced with an "oversize" (larger O.D.) guide..... Just my .02..
Yelp that's what I told him.
Now liquid Nitrogen on the valve guide might cause a problem.
That would probably be the best way to install valve guides. Dip them in the L . N. then drop them in the heads But where would you find a supplier of that stuff and the proper storage and tools of it
We used to heat the head(s) to around 350F. and put the guides on dry ice for about 1/2 hr.... Normally required only the lightest "push" to seat them in the heads.... Never had one back out..... ( CAUTION>>>>Your wife may become unhinged when the head smokes up the kitchen / house....) P.S. .... Yank the smoke alarm batteries prior to project...
We used to re-sleeve the cylinders in Ford flathead 4-cylinder tractor engines in a similar way when I was a kid - heat the block with four old pump-style, kerosene blow torches after the sleeves had sat in the chest freezer for a couple of days. Once the block was sufficiently hot, someone got a sleeve from the freezer and ran (literally) with it to the tractor and slipped it into the cylinder hole, then ran back (while the torch guys kept heating the block and made sure the sleeve was seated properly) to get another sleeve and repeated until all four were seated.
The more things change, the more they stay the same.
That's easy use The out door grill. I spoke With a guy that worked for Porsche in the 80's Thy use the nitrogen on a lot of things in the engines they Kryo the blocks , bearings . the rotating assemblies and the the valve guides so I got more than what I asked for.
Wow.
Wow.
Ha - I like Jake's understatement! I sure he's thinking why the heck did I spend thousands on CNC milling machines, presses and specialized infrequently used tools when an old Amanda freezer and electric range would do the job --- with final coercing of parts with a BFH.
My Pop was a flat head era mechanic and machinist. A bit shade treeish But it helped.. My biggest concern would be freezing a finger OFF or some other valuable extremity.. Co 2 will also get stuff pretty cold.. But its still not Kryo like you would really want used in your rotating assembly .
I still would like a Milling machine to make more custom stuff. remember I invent toys all the time and it would shorten up my experimenting time and parts fabrication My eyes are becoming a greater concern thou. No more tin ware metal working for me I have found a guy for doing that stuff
I help put a sleeve in a 289 when I was 15 I held the block of oak while my older brother drove it in # 6 bore ,, been there done that too..
I always looking and researching to find out more about these engines and things that will help them be better I wish I could ge a set of Jakes roller lifters I want to finish my 2056
