Intermeccanica Rack and Pinion steering

While I was at IM today, Henry showed me a new R&P he found. The pinion is offset to the left for easy connection to the steering column, but the real nice thing is that it can be modified easily to fit the cars, unlike previous units Henry has tried. Less hassle means Henry will be willing to offer it as an option to future customers of his cars.

The real good news is that it will be able to be retro-fit onto existing IMs. I don't know what it will cost, but in the time I have known Henry I have come to realize two things about him.
1. Henry is not in the parts business. He doesn't look to make lots of money selling parts.
2. It won't be cheap. Only because you get what you pay for, and Henry doesn't sell crap solutions.
I didn't think to take a picture of the R&P, but I believe Henry will have this R&P on the vehicle he is bringing to Knotts.
Ron

Oh boy, now what do I do....R & P for my 84, or 930 Turbo front disc brakes for my 911 single cab.
Ron

My new IM Speedster is the test-bed for R/P - it's a VW Golf non-assisted rack and pinion unit. Simple spacers can be fitted internally to limit wheel travel (eliminate tires rubbing in the fender well).

It's because of the awesome steering feel and response of George's car that Henry was searching for a R&P unit. George, your unit works great, but was a bear to install and make work as it needed lots of mods. This new unit Henry has found is much easier to install.

I bought this unit off Ebay in the hopes that it might line up as the column is on the drivers side and not in the middle. Have yet to receive it to check it out...

Brian

Ron: Do ya think Henry would share a part # for the new unit?

BD

Hey George, how about a report on your car? You have a number of items that are unique and I would be interested in hearing how they worked out. Off the top of my head I'm thinking about rack and pinion steering, the gas heater, your 2387, the shocks you have, etc. Do you have coil overs too?
Ron

Another possible new rack source is an aftermarket VW sand rail supplier...I have seen both centered and offset racks for around $100

I too would like any feedback on IM's optional Rack & Pinion. Jim

After a short drive of George's IM at Carlisle, I would recommend the R & P setup. Very direct and very responsive.

I drove one of Henry's rack and pinion cars in Vancouver when I went up for a vist last January. When I can find the time to drive the speedster up to Vancouver, I will get him to retro fit the Rack and Pinion into my car. You get some additional front trunk room also.

Thanks everyone. I figured that the R&P would be a must have. Right now I'm trying to figure what the must have list is, and counting quarters, dimes, and nickels.

R&P steering is wonderful, nothing less. It does exactly what you tell it to and does it immediately.

You'll need 2,000 quarters, 5,000 dimes, and 10,000 nickels, Jim.

Bob,

I keep going over the list and subtracting, then adding, and watching the terrible exchange rate.... And it all comes up to one thing... I'll need a 20 foot flatbed trailer to haul all those 5 gallon water cooler jugs full of nickels, dimes, and quarters to Vancouver. I wonder what UPS would charge to ship them? (Thanks for the post.. I'm still laughing, and crying, and laughing, and...)

On a more serious note, I may be writing you and others for some selection feedback. And, hope you can make Knotts!

Jim

Brokahoma

Jim,

Add a stage II clutch to your list. With a performance engine it makes a big difference in usable power.

Karl

Jim:

Feel free to ask away. There are so many variables to consider, and not just the mechanical ones. Karl's idea above is worth looking at. My Rooster had a Kennedy Stage II clutch, and it was great for that big engine, but that might depend on driving style. I also liked the heated seats, but that depends on where you live.

I'm sure George would have some other suggestions, also, after having 'built' two IM's.

I'm thinking about my next purchase, and it might be a lot simpler and more basic. I'm still trying to turn the clock back...

As for Knott's next year, that's a long haul, but it will get longer every year.

Bob
>>>>>>>>>>>>

Ron, everything is fine.

I'm going to pull and upgrade the heads, and while they're off lightly hone cyls and install new rings with Total-Seal 2nd compression rings. Also may switch to hi perf aluminum pushrods. Maybe will find another 10 or 15 BHP lurking in there.

I'm debating on changing first gear while the engine is out; I originally picked it for occasional traffic jam crawls so it's a bit low. Not many traffic jams around here so a swap to the next lower numerical ratio would tighten up 1st to 2nd without sacrificing anything (you can change first on a 901 5-speed without taking the whole trans apart).

Shocks are adjustable Konis set at the recommended "1 click" setting, but my front end setup has stock spindles instead of the dropped spindles most replicas use. I have a set of Bilsteins to replace the Konis if they don't work out to my satisfaction.

I kind of pioneered the non-assisted R/P with my first IM, and Henry used an even better setup on my new IM; that he has investigated further and found a better unit doesn't surprise me at all as he is a very quality oriented guy. R/P has none of the slop or vagueness of feel endemic to the worm/sector steering units.

The gas heater is a terrific option, as is the 4-point roll bar that's removable from the cockpit.

The instruments from Palo Alto Speedometer were pretty much a requirement for the Carrera look, and the matching 904 combo gauge nicely includes an oil pressure gauge. PA even built a matching sweep second hand clock for me. They do beautiful work.

Henry is sending me a rear top bow that features an over-center slack-to-tight lever adjuster; my top material is the ultra heavy German fabric (stiff as a board) that's hard to stretch out and latch, so the trick top bow allows you to erect and latch, then take the slack out of the top by raising the adjustable bow. Seems that Henry's dad Frank at IM invented this feature years ago but for some reason it wasn't used on my top.

So far, so good (with a few minor irritations...)

George,

I realize that was addressed to Ron, but I also appreciate the feedback. That goes to Karl, Ron, Bob, and anyone else that joins this thread. Scott? Dale? Others?

George, some Qs.

How much does the 4 pt. Roll Bar interfere with seat adjustment, if at all?
Do you have a low or high bow set up? And, why did you go for the heavier material? Insulation? Durability? Looks? And how do you feel about it after a few months use?
Do you have some more pics to post?
Besides the obvious, tell me why you prefer the 5spd, over a properly geared 4 and a 3:88. I realize this sounds a little dumb... but I am trying to justify costs in every point of a build. And I realize gearing selection goes hand & hand with the engine build & driving needs.

There's no way I can match your build... but I do want to learn from it, and maybe use what I can in what I hope is a nicely balanced car for the money I am willing to invest. Yes, I understand the cliche......

You grew up in Dallas.... tell me, would you pop the coin for a gas heater down here?

Using the stock spindles, how is the ride with the Konis adjusted where you have them now?

I will write privately with more Qs after the weekend.

Anyone else is welcome to jump in here. Karl, Bob, thanks for the info on the clutch. I am taking notes.

Jim

"It's probably a good option to have for future resale, too."

I'm first in line.

Jim, the CR five speed gives you more options for cruising RPM ranges in different gears when in town traffic and of course gives better overall performance. The main issue is longevity; if you're going to have an engine with any real BHP/torque the 901 is MUCH stronger than a "prepped" VW unit (I've seen some bolted up to V8's).

A stage II KP clutch (2,100 lb.) is good to have with an upgraded engine, and it's not tough on your left leg as the 901 release arm is longer than that on a VW trans (better mechanical advantage).

The fabric used for my hi-bow top and both tonneau covers is the best premium German cloth available; very heavy, and according to Henry it should last and look good a long, long time.

The roll bar doesn't interfere with seat adjustment or raising/lowering the top. I only opted for it because I may sneak back into SCCA competition. There are mounting flanges under the body on the tube frame with fixed threads so you can remove it from the cockpit and Henry made four carpet trimmed cover pads to neaten up the interior when it's removed.

Dallas and Oklahoma get cold in the winter, the cold season just doesn't last very long. Since I like to drive my car on nice days and the cold season in Maryland is somewhat longer I think the ESPAR is definitely worth the price. It's probably a good option to have for future resale, too.

Some other things worth considering - I had Henry add welded-on jack points front and rear on both side frame rails, and also added a centered, combination jack point and tow eye on the front.

I also had him add an audio buzzer to the oil pressure idiot light circuit that will alert you quickly if pressure gets low or vanishes.

The car has an original "umbrella" style under-dash parking brake; I think the typical between-the-seats VW parking brake is probably better but esthetically is not "Speedster".

The PreLuber is nice for oil changes and cold starts - pressurizes the entire system (filter, lines, case) before you start the engine.

The electric windows (switches hidden under the dash) offer better visibilty, convenience, and weather protection (rubber molding on the windshield posts).

The trunk mod for full-sized spare works well but Henry did it using a full sized battery; I had asked for a small Optima battery but for some reason he didn't take that seriously. End result is that it takes two people to squeegee the 195/65 spare out of the well - I plan on replacing the big battery with an Optima to remedy that problem and knock off a few pounds.

The sound insulation package works well but adds some weight to the car; very little engine noise is audible in my car except for the exhaust, but the trans noise is there (901's are noisier with 4 cyls while they are fairly quiet in 6 cyl 911's - probably due to the broader spaced firing impulses).

Finally, the 15 gallon fuel tank option is inexpensive and extends your driving range.

Thanks George! That update was truly useful. On the subject of transaxles, I realize that the 901 is far more rugged than a beetle tranaxle, and that a bus transaxle is also stronger, but no one has ever given me a definative answer (or I forgot) how much h/p and torque a "built" bug transaxle can handle reliably. Any thoughts?

Jim, Now that I have my smile back...This is what I am thinking I

I dont know. My neighbor just drove by in his 911 Carerra. Even at neighborhood speeds with a stock muffler, that engine sounds delicious!

George, that was good stuff. Thank you. Plan on more Qs and maybe a call. I'm just absorbing the info now. On another thread Stan is asking Qs about gearing and I'll be reading that and bouncing some thoughts off you in a p-mail.

Dale, good to have you back! That was a lot to think about. I need to look and see if I have your number. A call this week or early next week is needed. I'm sorting info, and seeing how it all fits into what I am aiming for. I also need to line up some time with Henry. I have more questions than ever! I also need to get my basic build in soon with some moola.

I know what you mean about the sound of a 911 Carrera. I left a local PCA ( active observer) gathering recently and buzzed by a very nice looking late 80s Carrera on a two lane ramp as he was lagging and involved in a discussion with his wife. About a mile down the freeway I was enjoying the cruise home, and let him slip up on me without noticing until I caught the flash in my mirror... he came by waving with that baby fully lit... the sound was, well incredible. Next spring I hope to slip on him one day and give him a little return music.

I need to look at Henry's chips. I have a few colors in mind... I would be interested in seeing that orange. I think one I have in mind is very close to Scott's. In fact I saw it on a very clean Bug the other day. But, hell, I have thought about black, silver, red, and..... Henry shared some recent build pics.... and although I normally would not go for a red, I saw one that was deep, not crimson, but somewhere between red and that... Powder Coated wheels, moons, over-riders... very nice appearing build.

But then, there's also that GT bumper, and going with a more sano look.... Man. Choices!

A FAT IV has entered my thoughts a few times. I have been leaning towards your engine, but with the 'enhancement' you mentioned. I need to call FAT and get some numbers too... and put them in my budget and see how bad it buldges. Man, I can see how George went with so much... But, I need to hold a line that I am still working on, give or take a few dinero. It's not affording that bothers me, but I do have a number in mind and in that I hope to achieve a nice balanced driver.. That's a challenge. The 911 set up interests me too. I sure need to get on this thing!

Just remember, Jim, whatever you decide you'll wish you had decided differently later on :-).

We're only human, I guess...or are we?

Bob Carley is right - my first IM is a sweetheart, but the second time around I got closer to what I wanted. If you're only gonna do this once, take your time, figure out exactly what you want, and spend the $. After the fact changes/upgrades are too much trouble.

Be careful with color choices and paint samples; often what you see up front can appear somewhat different on a finished car. Check samples in sunlight and on overcast days to make sure it's what you like.

Options I forgot to mention are H4 headlights, left foot dead pedal, and intermittent windshield wipers.

Thanks Bob and George. Got the H-4s down and the Dead Pedal listed(the pedal from looking at your build shots George)... didn't have the delay wipes.. need to look at that.

Yeah, that's the trick here. With my VS, I already knew what I would do different, as the options are a little narrower. In fact, that was an option on my board until I made this choice.. I considered doing some stuff to my trusty VS. John Leader did a great job from what I can see in expanding that horizon beyond the old borders and creating something unique and fast.. I like his selections and some groundbreaking things John Steele did there.

The IM build really starts with a empty sheet on the draft board, and where you go is wide open. I think it must be much like doing a glass steet rod and a custom frame. I have no experience there other than helping others. I have done a few post 50s cars/trucks, but again, you already start with something and then modify it... makes selections more easy to choose. And, of course it all comes down to what are you are willing to invest. Well not always, at least in street rods... some of the best cars are just well balanced, clean, and with an attention to detail.

I have thought about a coach... and there have been years that I would do that. But knee surgeries and shoulder surgeries and being transplanted make that not so wise. I'm healthy, I am in good shape, especially right now, but.. I need to stay that way. So, that is not i the cards. Too bad, I think I would enjoy the experience. I have the tools and space.. but. Well enough of that.

I had something in mind when I started contemplating IM... but it is much harder when you get into it for real and making sure you get it as right as you can the first time.

I do believe I'll get money in soon, so to get a place on the list... then just relax, enjoy the experience, get the initial base car right, do some asking... and calling, a visit.. then go with it after I have slept on it awhile.

Thanks for the advice on paint. Again, I want to be sure and get it right. I may look into a trip north of the border after we get back from a little vacation. I need to look at some builds in progress and take it all in. I think that will help a bunch.