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Okay guys, another question here for my planning phase.

 

For a "speedster" if you had a choice, which type of rear suspension would you choose?  IRS or Swing.

 

I know IRS would be preferred for a buggy/dirt vehicle since they are independent.  Does this independence also translate to road/track vehicles.

 

Which is easier to put together and maintain?  Also rear discs brakes and so on.  Just want your opinions.  I would imagine pretty much everyone will choose IRS.  Just want to know for sure, probably a dumb question, but I know you guys have learned much over your trials and just maybe one has a benefit or two over the other that I don't know about.

 

Zulu

Last edited by Zulu
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I have a swing axle car based on a 1968 pan.  Using a camber compensator and front sway bar it rides like it was on rails with no lean at all on sharp curves. bullet-straight down the road with no pulling or any hint of steering wheel shaking.  Plus I get a VIN number included in the deal.

 

I had no choice ---it just came as a swing axle--hell, I didn't even know what a swing axle was at the time!  I just made the best of the hand I was dealt.  

They both are "independent suspension", but that is a myopic view of the situation.

 

The swing arm, while cheap, is inherently less stable and far more susceptible to oversteer, converting almost instantly to understeer with application of either power or brake.

 

IRS is far less susceptible to the over/understeer condition regardless of power application.  The rear weight shift is still there, but you must work hard to induce it, rather than work hard to get back on-line once the tail breaks loose, as you always will with a swing arm.

 

In other words, if you have a choice, go IRS.

 

Jack, your car may ride "like it's on rails", but there is a world of difference in handling between yours, even with your suspension mods, and an equally set up IRS car.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

What Gordon said X2! Technically they are both independent. The problem is camber and toe change on the swing axle. The VW IRS solved that, and is VERY similar to the 911. However, the 911 rear end is coupled with a front suspension that works way better than the bug. I'm not saying the VW is junk, just that the 911 was a big improvement, and the basic suspension was retained until the 964 came out.

 

The only reason the swing works reasonably well on the Spyder is that the trailing arms are longer, lessening toe change. The travel is also limited so tuck is less of a problem, at least on my car.  

Zulu, Here's a sing axle experience to consider.

 

The very first time I got my VS on a traffic clear winding country road I was exhilarated and playing Steve McQueen...but came close to winding up like James Dean!

 

I was using both lanes to straighten out a curve when without a hint or warning the rear broke loose. I stayed off the brakes, steered into my sideways trajectory with my heart in my mouth and a glimpse of eternity ahead of me.

 

I've been very cautious and conservative since then. But I've got a pile of IRS suspension components waiting to be wrenched in...Then maybe Steve and I will give the curve another shot! 

 

 

I have a swing axle.  While Carey was building my car, Lane suggested a camber compensator.  I've never driven it without it.  I've also never driven an IRS car, although I'm sure I would love it (not possible on today's Becks).

I drive slow in & power around & out of the corners.  I love the way it digs in and pulls you around.

Slow in. Don't stop braking until you're ready to accelerate & keep on accelerating.  Don't lift off!

The cars are great fun in the corners if you approach it correctly.  It's not like plowing around in a front-wheel drive or drifting around in a rear wheel drive.

I love the sensation!

I'm a driver not a builder but I will give you my driving interpretation of the 3 cars I have owned with different driveline setups.

1.  Vintage Spyder.  Swing axle.  No LSD.

2.  Vintage Spyder.  Swing axle.  LSD.

3.  Intermeccanica.  IRS.  No LSD.

 

1.  Probably the most fun I have had with any car.  Crazy oversteer but incredibly predictable.  Lots of wheel (one wheel) spin and tire smoke.  But just hang the tail out keep on the gas and reel her back in.  What fun.

2.  More solidly planted.  Much faster through corners than #1 but in my opinion not as much fun.  Lots of adhesion to a high limit with very little oversteer, likely due to the midengine layout, but when that limited is reached its instant sideways. 

3.  Honestly I have not driven the IM as aggressively.  Seems to handle very well but I'm a little nervous about the heavy (water cooled high riding I4) rear engine.  Will probably oversteer and probably switch ends at a high limit in a abrupt way.  I am going to test it but I need to be on a wide open road, maybe on the track or in a large parking lot.  I realy don't expect it to handle as well as the Spyders even with IRS.  Rear weight bias and increased weight relatively speaking are not going to be in its favor.

Thanks guys.  My suspicions were correct...so far it seems that everyone is leaning toward an IRS setup.  Although it sounds like the Swing setup really isn't a problem and for street driving will work just fine.

 

So are there any "unknown" factors that a rookie will find out the hard way vs. some of you veterans?

 

Meaning...are IRS' more expensive to maintain?  Do IRS' wear out faster than swing or vice/verse?  IRS CV joints need replaced a lot or not?

 

Rear disc brake setups?  Are they just as easy to set up on a Swing vs IRS?

 

Again I would imagine that in the questions I just posted here, that it would be splitting hairs right?  I mean how often do you really expect to be tearing down a rear suspension...25,000 miles?  50,000?  So what is a $500.00 maintenance bill over the course of 50,000 miles...not a big deal to even be a factor in the decision right?

 

What about leaks?  Is one more messy than the other?

 

Phil, what is LSD?  Lateral Stabilizer Device???  Stab Bar?

 

Zulu

Last edited by Zulu

LSD = Limited Slip Differential, or Positraction

 

Phil:

I'm assuming that #1 above should read "Speedster", unless you're running two Spyders.
Also, the center of gravity difference in an Audi or Honda upright 4-cyl engine back there and a flat four should be almost negligible and the weight difference should be around 30 pounds - That, in a IRS, will almost be undetectable while driving.

******************************


All good info from everyone, but I want to take a minute to make some points:

First, I don't want anyone to get the impression that Swingarm = Bad, and IRS = good.  That is not the case.  Both have distinct characteristics that, once learned can be used to the advantage or disadvantage of the driver.

A Swingarm without a camber compensator will typically oversteer into a corner such that the rear of the car will swing wide (some say abruptly, but I would question that) into "oversteer" and then any application of power (more throttle OR more brake) will cause it to suddenly convert to understeer as the rear swings back around and then over-compensates.  Think of this as a giant fishtail, sometimes a single oscillation, sometimes several (depending on how the driver reacts).

When you add the camber compensator, it works to keep the wheels about mid-swing of the swing-arm arc, thereby pushing up or pulling down on the center of the car to keep it "level" and the wheels straight.  Because of the geometry of the suspension it can't really keep the wheels straight, but it tries.  Because of this action, the suspension can tolerate more stress before the rear end breaks loose to swing around and join the front at the head of the class.  Camber compensated Speedsters can enter a turn at higher speeds, begin accelerating sooner and exit the turn at a higher speed.  They were first used exclusively for racing, and now you can see why - overall lap times came down when using camber compensators.  Essentially, the camber compensator increased the speed at which the rear end would break loose and swing around, but it made it a bit more predictable as to when it would happen (the driver could feel the tires roll under and react and (sometimes) save it, but it still had a propensity to cause roll-overs, just at higher g-forces in turns.

But they still have two things going against them:  the geometry still allows one or both wheels to tuck in under the car in very hard cornering making them less stable than other geometry configurations, and the camber compensator was an added expense to the manufacturer.

Enter the "Independent Rear Suspension" or IRS, which, on a VW, was a dual-trailing-arm configuration.  Not the best, but a HUGE step up because it kept the wheel essentially straight when traveling up and down, as opposed to the circular arc of a swing arm.  It was also cheaper to manufacture (especially since the same parts were used on VW sedans and Porsche 924-944), didn't need a camber compensator and had a far less propensity to cause the car to roll over. (You could still do that, but you had to really work at it and do stupid things.)  Adding an anti-roll bar (camber compensators, by design, don't work on an IRS rear) worked just like a camber compensator in lap times - they went down.  Now, the suspension had far more tire tread to work with, since the tire patch was flat on the ground and didn't get peeled up by changing wheel angle or tuck under when things went overboard.

The VW IRS also exhibited far less of a propensity for oversteer into hard corners - it would enter starting with understeer (where the front plows ahead in spite of you turning the wheels) until you reach the limits of the tire sidewall reach, then the rear tires start to skid  sideways a bit (the driver can sense this point) and then they let go and the rear starts to swing out, but either more power (preferably, for racing) or a touch of the brake will bring the rear back in line, much more predictably, or as most racers do, applying just the right amount of power can steer you through the drift.

This meant that "drifting" through corners could now be far more controlled with the right foot only, by applying the right amount of power.  This was also true with a Swing arm rear, but there was always this tipping point when the speed exceeded tire adhesion (because the rear wheels were tucking under) and you abruptly lost it, never to be recovered (spin-out).

THAT is the big difference between Swingarm and IRS.  Normal driving on the street, and even spirited driving once you get used to what's going on, can be equally fun, but in slightly different ways.  I love cornering a swing-arm car reasonably hard right on the brink of the rear-end letting go, but I LOVE doing the same with an IRS, simply because it'll go through faster with more lateral force and exits with authority.  It's when you're on a track really pushing the car when you notice the big difference.

BTW:  For those of you feeling smug about having an IRS Speedster that's "better", remember that the Suby-based SAS mid-engined cars take it to a whole other level because they have BOTH a better IRS system (unequal "A" arms and MacPherson struts at all four corners) and a center-mounted engine, making the car extremely neutral and predictable in hard cornering, much like a well-set-up race car with softer, street suspension.

So that's it.  I've autocrossed both swing arm and IRS Beetle suspensions (both dune buggies) and they're both fun, once you know their distinctive limits and how to take advantage of either.

The Speedstah Guy from Grafton

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

are IRS' more expensive to maintain? 

 

About the same

 

Do IRS' wear out faster than swing or vice/verse? 

 

No - maybe new CV shafts every 100,000 miles or so

 

IRS CV joints need replaced a lot or not?  ^^^^

 

Rear disc brake setups?  Are they just as easy to set up on a Swing vs IRS?

 

Same, same

 

Again I would imagine that in the questions I just posted here, that it would be splitting hairs right? 

 

Yup.

 

I mean how often do you really expect to be tearing down a rear suspension...25,000 miles?  50,000? 

 

100,000 miles or so, unless messing with suspensions is one of your "things".

 

So what is a $500.00 maintenance bill over the course of 50,000 miles...not a big deal to even be a factor in the decision right?

 

Two new CV shafts should be about $350 installed - available from NAPA

 

What about leaks?  Is one more messy than the other?

 

Swing arms have transmission oil all the way out to the wheel hubs, so sometimes the boots at the tranny end petrify, split and leak and have to be replaced.  New boots, installed, should be about $150.  Same deal on CV axles, but if they leak people often just put in new shafts ($60 each side is cheap).

 

Last edited by Gordon Nichols
Originally Posted by jschlotz:

ALB, Please explain to me how you easily narrow IRS rear suspension for wider tires.

 

 

With a swingaxle you'd have to have shorter axles manufactured ($400? $500? more?), remove the bearing housing from the axle tube, shorten the tube and press it back together. The torsion housing will need to be shortened the same amount (per side) which consists of cutting, measuring and cutting, welding back together and then re-bracing to the pan.IIrc 3" shorter per side is done in dragracing circles, and I've read of 5" per side (a show Karmann Ghia in Hot VW's 10? 20? years ago).  Hot VW's (April '94) did an article on narrowing a swingaxle beetle convertible 2" (per side) and got G60-15" tires on 10" rims under the fenders. 

 

With an irs you have to cut the bearing housing away from the trailing arm and reposition it 1- 1 1/6" (26-30mm) and then weld it back together, holding it somehow to keep alignment specs. The trailing arm still connects to the swing arm from the torsion housing. Type 3 automatic axles (I believe it's driver's side?) are shorter and fit trailing arms narrowed 1", and Mango Smoothie (why we just can't call everybody by our first names, I don't know) did the trailing arms on his car 30mm and made the shorter axles work (I believe he bought brand new type 3 shorter auto axles from an Empi dealer). I think (with a little bit of mucking around) you'd get a 7 or 8" rim and a 215 or 225 wide tire inside a stock body. Well maybe not totally stock- if my earlier Intermeccanica is like the rest of them, there's an inch or more difference in width from the front to the back of the rear wheelwell, so a little pushing and glass work may be in order. Hot VW's covered the procedure in the June '94 issue.

 

"IRS is.... easier to narrow for wider tires/rims."

 

I didn't say it was easily done; I said it was easier than swingaxle. There's a difference. It's still pretty involved....

Yoda out.

 

Phil- Great observations. And I have to agree; a heavier, slightly tail-heavy Speedster will never handle as well as a lighter, more balanced Spyder. Not without a lot of work and ingenuity...'cause you know...anything is possible...

Last edited by ALB

Gordon

#1 was a 1999 Vintage Spyder with 1915cc VW aircooled.

#2 was the first Vintage Suby Spyder 2500cc I bought in 2003.

Alas both are long gone.

My fantasy is to own my current IM and also an air-cooled Type IV powered Vintage Spyder.  I actually have 2 48 Dellortos still in the box that I bought for near nothing in the 1990's.  I will use them one day.  What a garage that would make.  The gentleman and the hoodlum ready for whatever mood I am in at the time.  It will have to remain a fantasy for now.

Last edited by 550 Phil
Originally Posted by Gordon Nichols - Massachusetts 1993 CMC:

The VW IRS also exhibited far less of a propensity for oversteer into hard corners - it would enter starting with understeer (where the front plows ahead in spite of you turning the wheels) until you reach the limits of the tire sidewall reach, then the rear tires start to skid  sideways a bit (the driver can sense this point) and then they let go and the rear starts to swing out, but either more power (preferably, for racing) or a touch of the brake will bring the rear back in line, much more predictably, or as most racers do, applying just the right amount of power can steer you through the drift.

Letting off the gas or hitting the brakes in a skid with a rear engined car often just ends with you facing backwards rather quickly. Transfer the weight forward too quickly, the rear end, which was already over its traction limit, with less weight is suddenly way over its traction limit and the car spins out. Like driving a front wheel drive car in a skid, as you said, you're better off in most situations applying power to get out of it. But it's counter-intuitive and hard to make instinctual.

What most people don't realize is spins happen VERY quickly.   I've tracked various cars and spun a half a dozen times.  In every case it happened so quickly I barely had time to react.  Before I knew it I was heading backwards down the track, which is NEVER a good thing.

I did have the back end of my 911 powered 1970 VW single cab come around on me while going through a tight corner.  Luckily, I had the foresight to stay on gas and power my way through the corner.

Last edited by Ron O

Maybe 1 point for the swingset: Wide fives, standard. 

 

If you're diggin' the early, Beehive look the wide five rims will be more correct. Turning your IRS-style 4 x 130mm bolt pattern wheels into something Porsche-looking is a bit of a chore.

 

Not needed, of course; not one person in 50 will look your 8-slot Mangles and know it's "not correct for a Porsche," but some people really care about such stuff even more than they care about clipping apexes.

 

 

Yup, what I described is counter-intuitive and has been learned thoroughly by EVERY winning Porsche driver.  It's been said that, if you can drive a (rear-engined) Porsche competitively and be successful, you can drive ANY other car competitively and win.   Porsche is THAT different (and much more difficult) But still predictable - you just have to feel it and learn each car - believe me, they're all slightly different.

 

You come into the turn and push and push and you feel different transitions happening in the rear:  you feel the body lean, you feel the suspension reach, you feel the tires set as they reach the extent of the sidewall "give" and begin to slide and then, suddenly, the tires let go and the rear starts to come around.  So the natural reaction is "OH, ****!" And you step on the brake.  But that makes the tires skid even more, increasing the speed of the slide and spinout.  The BEST thing to do is steer into it and give it more throttle to try to drive out of it (if it hasn't already come around too far).  

 

For me, the slickest example of this was in, believe it or not, a '66 Corvair.  I was riding with an SCCA driver ed instructor on a short track at Fort Devens in Massachusetts.  His wife (and co-driver in their autocross car) had been complaining about their car being loose in the turns, so we took it out for a run.  

 

He came into a turn too hot and too far outside (he said on purpose, to demonstrate technique to me - I didn't believe it) and half-way through, the rear end breaks loose.  He steers into it and applies power (maybe too much power, but what did I know?).  The rear end keeps swinging through.  He steers farther into it and applies more power and, as it reaches 180° and keeps swinging, he blips the e-brake and hits the power again and it FLIPS through another 180° and he catches it as it comes back straight with the throttle mashed. Whoosh!  And we keep going down the track.  A real, 360° donut, at speed.  My heart is pounding.  I feel sick.  My draws are full.  And then he says;  "Dammit!  Feels OK to ME!"

Wow...tons of stuff to read.  Great to have such helpful people...great forum community.

 

So I think it is settled...Stan said that VS only deals with Swing, so I think I am kind of stuck.  Since Vintage is where I am going to go to pick up my ride.

 

I am going to put it together myself, so I am not sure if I can request a VW pan that uses IRS setup.  I'll have to check when the time is right...Vintage chassis mounts and geometry may be based only on the swing though.

 

The difference from Swing to IRS has to start with the "PAN" correct?  Since the Torsion Springs and front mounts are an integral to the pan.  I dont think you can tale a Swing arm style pan and turn it into IRS can you?  The mounts aren't the same.

 

Really I would rather have IRS because of all the benefits in ride performance and camber stuff...but in addition I don't want to deal with gear oil and axle tubes.  The Swing style just sounds like a modified Chevy/Ford axle with an additional pivot at the case.

 

Splined shafts at both ends, running through a tube with oil, but on the VW it has this knuckle flat spade looking thing vs splines at the case.

 

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

Zulu

Last edited by Zulu

 

"Swing arm pan into an IRS?"...Yes (Google exactly that!)

Youtube has a couple of excellent tutorials.

 

If you're doing it yourself then keep an eye out for 'parted out' IRS components. (The Samba/Ebay) Then look for (Google) specific torsion bar brackets to be welded on...Also Google alignment jig for accurate placement/welding of brackets.

 

Then find an IRS specific tranny (gift your swing axle tranny to someone needing a hefty boat anchor),... CW joints & axles, IRS spring plates...a few other odds and ends; but you get the idea.  

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