i would appreciate any secrets for installing a decent fitting top since the manual doesnt seem to have it right
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i would appreciate any secrets for installing a decent fitting top since the manual doesnt seem to have it right
The way the tops are made, the rear window almost always has a wave in it. ~Alan
Once you get driving at 40+ MPH the top straightens out as air pushes it tight.
obviously, mine could be different. It flaps like crazy above 40mph. If any of you have a fix I'd sure like to know. Thanks
ALAN,
WHAT ARE THE PIECES CALLED THAT U LIFT AND LOCK IN PLACE THAT MAKE THE TOP TAUNT
PERHAPS BOB DOES NOT KNOW ABOUT THEM
BOB THEY ARE ON THE RIGHT AND LEFT SIDE OF THE METAL BRACKETS OF YOUR TOP BEHIND EACH SEAT
WHAT ARE THE PIECES CALLED THAT U LIFT AND LOCK IN PLACE THAT MAKE THE TOP TAUNT
PERHAPS BOB DOES NOT KNOW ABOUT THEM
BOB THEY ARE ON THE RIGHT AND LEFT SIDE OF THE METAL BRACKETS OF YOUR TOP BEHIND EACH SEAT
The support brackets act as a locking levers to tighten the top bows.
https://www.speedsterowners.com/library/cmcmanual2/images/cmc93.jpg
https://www.speedsterowners.com/library/cmcmanual2/images/cmc93.jpg
Paul, speedsters are to be driven with the top DOWN..
I bungie cord the roof bows to my roll bar. It pulls it the back bow forward which tightens the rear portion of the top. No wrinkles. I guess the roll bar has another function besides looks.
Tension brackets.... I call them flippers ~
Have you already installed your top , or are you ANTICIPATING trouble ??
My photos include a couple pre-install bow tensioning details.
Gordon has a "How To" tech article on the speedster shop site
My photos include a couple pre-install bow tensioning details.
Gordon has a "How To" tech article on the speedster shop site
I vaguely remember that the top in a CMC-style system had to have the levers behind the seats "unlocked" in order for the windshield clips to reach, and then adjusting them was an all-or-nothing deal.
In a perfect world, the windshield clips would be adjustable with spring tensioners in them, and the latching levers would take up any gap between the top and the windshield frame.
When the "flippers" behind the seats were tensioned, the windshield was pulled slightly back from its rubber base -- either because the CMC top was crap or because the levers's pre-drilled holes were really a quarter-inch too short to be effective without stressing the whole works.
I couldn't ever get them exactly right unless it was hot out and the material was relaxed.
I did use a poster tube, cut to about two feet, to keep the window from folding into a crease with the top down. It wrapped nicely around the tube.
Life is much simpler with no roof.
In a perfect world, the windshield clips would be adjustable with spring tensioners in them, and the latching levers would take up any gap between the top and the windshield frame.
When the "flippers" behind the seats were tensioned, the windshield was pulled slightly back from its rubber base -- either because the CMC top was crap or because the levers's pre-drilled holes were really a quarter-inch too short to be effective without stressing the whole works.
I couldn't ever get them exactly right unless it was hot out and the material was relaxed.
I did use a poster tube, cut to about two feet, to keep the window from folding into a crease with the top down. It wrapped nicely around the tube.
Life is much simpler with no roof.
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Images (1)
i had this problem with my top install as well, so i ripped it apart and added these:
http://picasaweb.google.com/mangosmoothie356/Month18#5455329864726705186
now it's as tight as a ...
http://picasaweb.google.com/mangosmoothie356/Month18#5455329864726705186
now it's as tight as a ...