It's me again. Need some ideas about door sills...

I have sent my Speedster to the paint shop today... ;(

I was wondering if anyone has any ideas about stainless door sills. I ripped off the stuck (gasp) rubber ones today and would love to insert stainless with screws onto the sills. That would look so cool.

Has anyone seen this or done this before?

Mike,

Someone on this forum at some time in the past used/was going to use polished aluminum, rather than stainless--lighter weight, cheaper, almost the same look, easier to obtain and use, etc., etc. I don't think I ever read a post after the job was finished. Clearance would be the only issue I would address, but there is probably plenty. Please let the forum know how it turns out. Regards, Jim

I remember someone modified original parts from Tweeks to fit their replicar. Try a search.

I've had the same idea for some time, and have made paper templates for the sills. I was going to use stainless- with all due respect to those with differing opinions, I can't see how a weight difference with aluminum is going to have much impact and I think stainless holds up better. Also, I was going to a die cut vinyl speedster logo put on the sill plate. If I get done with my project before you do, I'll try to post photos. Good luck!

Hey, count me in if anyone comes up with the polished aluminum or stainless door sills!!

Michael
359 speedster

Tweeks and Stodards, have the factory stuff for your door sills and it's not hard to do the upgrade I am very pleased with mine sorry no new pic's they were lost in a recent system crash.

Stainless looks nice, but remember that it will rust. So keep it dry and if there is a polish, use it often.
Best to you, Mike Siddons

Stainless trim should not rust, I've taken 30 year old stainless trim from junk yard cars when I was restoring my Studebaker and after a little buffing to get rid of the dullness, it was like new. I think the only time stainless will rust is if the stainless layer is broken and allows moisture to get underneath. Anyway thats my observations from wandering around midwest boneyards for many years.

Stainless steel is an alloy, the same material all the way through the piece- the

I guess I didn't know this was difficult so I just did it - I went to a sheel metal shop and had the guy make me two pieces of bent stainless, 20 guage, about 30 inches long with one side 4" and the other 3". These I cut to length and attached with three long sheetmetall screws on top, drilled thru into the frame, and three more on the inside, also drilled into the frame. Looks good, works well. Cost - about $40 total, if I remember right. You have to be real nice to the guy or else he won't want to bother with such a small job.

If this is of interest and my description is confusing, give me an e-mail address and I will send a picture.

Peter McEwan

The sill kits from Tweeks are aluminum but you will want the Stoddard rubber mats to make it look correct.

The sill kits from Tweeks are aluminum but you will want the Stoddard rubber mats to make it look correct.

Hey fellowcheapscate, Go to your nearest hardware and buy some rubber base molding,...turn it upside-down,cut to length and glue it on. BEAUTIFUL- Wayne

Yeah that's what I have, a rubber strip that is OK but it ain't stainless baby no matter how long you look at it. I'm off to a machine shop!

re: stainless rusting. Stan is right, as an ex-nuclear design engineer, I can confirm most stainless from 308 and up will not rust due to natural elements. Rust appearing on even cheap stainless is most likely the residue left from the previous polishing proces. A good polishing house will never mix stainless with any other metals on their polishing wheels. Steel residue from buffing, wire brushing or even polishing of previous carbon steel parts (and other alloy as well) will deposit microscopic particles into the surface of stainless and it is these "added" particles that rust and become visible. Frequently the polishing process can really embed these partricles deeply into the stainless, making subsequent recovery very difficult. NEVER mix stainless polishes with anything on your buffing wheels.

I have worked in the metals and petrochemical industry for 25 yrs as Corrosion/Metallurgist engineer. I'll keep it simple.
Stainless steel will form a passive film which is a dull oxidized look. Stainless if exposed to the elements over a period of time will pit just like aluminum. 410 ss has a high carbon content which will have a more defined oxide red rust look. Your best bet is 316 ss or 316L ss which will have the best mirror finish. If you want to prevent any stainless steel or alumimun from pitting or oxidizing coat it with a clear coating. All your new custom wheels are coated with a hard clear coat. That's why they stay so shiny.
Hope it helps.

Joe S.