Whoo-hoo!!!
angela
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Whoo-hoo!!!
angela
angela
OK folks, I told you I was going to do this. "It's Red", like the color of my face at all that has gone wrong. We'll call this the saga of the 23 week build. Down payment sent in February, car delivered 7/31/07, along w/ Tom Dewalt's -- see: "It's Green!" Tom got started in Feb too. Someone earlier wanted to know what was the true delivery time at JPS, vs. 12 weeks advertised. Well, here is a sample of two that has run twice that. Long story, not to be retold just now -- most know it already from other threads. Let's jump to 7/31 at Easton PA, see delivery room photos below. Tuck arrives w/ three JPS inside: a roller kit, the Green Hornet and the Red Baron. Cory drove up to Tom's w/ me, and Wild Bill was there too. Many thanks to both for contributing so positively to the day. Although it seemed like just a few minutes, the crew fussed and fiddled for nearly three hours in the hot sun admiring and sniffing out this and that, See (next)
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No guy (we all have our Man-cards, thankyouverymuch) can just look w/out poking and proding, pop the hood, and get about the particulars -- see below. Tom's car had a problem w/ deck lid not straight, nor latching properly. Also, he noted the steering wheel not centered. His story is told elswhere. I went for a quick jog down the block, and noticed my st. wheel was VERY loose. Back at Tom's garage scounged some tools and lifted the wheel to find a not-tight nut holding hub to shaft. Was able to torque it down, and was good to go. John Steele confessed he put the wheel on last minute (what they do to be sure the shiny chrome on that beautiful Nardi stays that way) and failed to get it tight. John also told me numerous times that my car would come w/ a CA tag. I even have the CA title that tells me the tag number. Car delivered w/ no tag attached. After phone call to JPS concerning WTF, John said "You want a tag?? I'll have one sent." I borrowed the tag from Tom's car, and he put a PA dealer plate on his -- he has lots of these. Not kosher, but my tag will be here in a couple of days, and my car ain't going anywhere -- more on that later.
We fussed around in the blinding sun for over 3 hours, then went to lunch, chasing Tom through the back roads. Folks at the rest. were properly impressed. Got my first OMG complement. Trouble was, she was about 40 years too young. Had some opp'y to find out where all the gears are, and how to run the clutch. Stopped by Tom's house to show his wife, and then took his kids back to the shop. I had his oldest in the right side on the way back, and he had pretty big eyes on one or two of the turns.
No guy (we all have our Man-cards, thankyouverymuch) can just look w/out poking and proding, pop the hood, and get about the particulars -- see below. Tom's car had a problem w/ deck lid not straight, nor latching properly. Also, he noted the steering wheel not centered. His story is told elswhere. I went for a quick jog down the block, and noticed my st. wheel was VERY loose. Back at Tom's garage scounged some tools and lifted the wheel to find a not-tight nut holding hub to shaft. Was able to torque it down, and was good to go. John Steele confessed he put the wheel on last minute (what they do to be sure the shiny chrome on that beautiful Nardi stays that way) and failed to get it tight. John also told me numerous times that my car would come w/ a CA tag. I even have the CA title that tells me the tag number. Car delivered w/ no tag attached. After phone call to JPS concerning WTF, John said "You want a tag?? I'll have one sent." I borrowed the tag from Tom's car, and he put a PA dealer plate on his -- he has lots of these. Not kosher, but my tag will be here in a couple of days, and my car ain't going anywhere -- more on that later.
We fussed around in the blinding sun for over 3 hours, then went to lunch, chasing Tom through the back roads. Folks at the rest. were properly impressed. Got my first OMG complement. Trouble was, she was about 40 years too young. Had some opp'y to find out where all the gears are, and how to run the clutch. Stopped by Tom's house to show his wife, and then took his kids back to the shop. I had his oldest in the right side on the way back, and he had pretty big eyes on one or two of the turns.
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(yet more)
And so it was time to beat feet back to MD and home, but not after a short stop by Mickey's to show off the car, and have an adult beverage -- plus a sandwich. Had a second "Wow, that's such a beautiful car", and this time she was only 20 years too young, an improvement, I guess. Cory was trailing me in my other car (an '03 Mazda 6, V6, 5-spd, which he, the Hooptymeister, allowed as how was "peppy"). The night was, in a word fantastic. Dry, cool, clear, full moon -- top down the whole way. I might have relaxed for a total of about five minutes on the ride back at speed on I95. The car really is kinda small, and those trucks are BIG!! Might have touched 80 mph and it was kinda "different" over the bumps -- it's a hard ride. But I was in there for a couple of hours, and was loving it. Seats are not exactly like my Toyota Camry, but still, I was able to sit there and grin for two solid hours.
And it was late. By the time I took Cory home and got back to the ranch, it was well past 1:00 in the AM. The car seems quite solid, corners well, has plenty of zip although I have been cautious about winding it out. It has driving lights that turn night into day, and that has come in handy. Have ridden it to work and around here and there a bit, to get to 300 mi +/-, which was mostly on the interstate getting home. Was set to take it to the beach this week-end, when pre-flight checks revealed gas all down one carb. After a day of snooping around, only conclusion is that the carb body must be cracked -- great luck, huh? This means at mile marker 300, I am in to a minor tear-down and shipping carb back to JPS, w/ his promise of a turn around by Friday -- we'll see; I take John's promises and pronouncements w/ a grain of salt. So, my really getting to know the car, and show it off to friends and family has to wait YET another week while the sorting that might have been done in CA, gets done in MD. [Note: while John said he'd put at least 100 miles on the car to shake it out, the odo said 00011 off the truck. I do not think much happened in CA to be sure all was in order, despite repeated claims that it would.] I am trying to stay positive about all this, as the car really looks and runs very good. I see it and still can't really believe it. The fit and finish are near perfect (loose steering wheel, quickly fixed, excepted) and the colors, leather, canvas, paint are all first rate. I have waxed it and it shines like you would not believe. It is going to be a real winner, once I (and JPS) iron out the kinks.
And so it was time to beat feet back to MD and home, but not after a short stop by Mickey's to show off the car, and have an adult beverage -- plus a sandwich. Had a second "Wow, that's such a beautiful car", and this time she was only 20 years too young, an improvement, I guess. Cory was trailing me in my other car (an '03 Mazda 6, V6, 5-spd, which he, the Hooptymeister, allowed as how was "peppy"). The night was, in a word fantastic. Dry, cool, clear, full moon -- top down the whole way. I might have relaxed for a total of about five minutes on the ride back at speed on I95. The car really is kinda small, and those trucks are BIG!! Might have touched 80 mph and it was kinda "different" over the bumps -- it's a hard ride. But I was in there for a couple of hours, and was loving it. Seats are not exactly like my Toyota Camry, but still, I was able to sit there and grin for two solid hours.
And it was late. By the time I took Cory home and got back to the ranch, it was well past 1:00 in the AM. The car seems quite solid, corners well, has plenty of zip although I have been cautious about winding it out. It has driving lights that turn night into day, and that has come in handy. Have ridden it to work and around here and there a bit, to get to 300 mi +/-, which was mostly on the interstate getting home. Was set to take it to the beach this week-end, when pre-flight checks revealed gas all down one carb. After a day of snooping around, only conclusion is that the carb body must be cracked -- great luck, huh? This means at mile marker 300, I am in to a minor tear-down and shipping carb back to JPS, w/ his promise of a turn around by Friday -- we'll see; I take John's promises and pronouncements w/ a grain of salt. So, my really getting to know the car, and show it off to friends and family has to wait YET another week while the sorting that might have been done in CA, gets done in MD. [Note: while John said he'd put at least 100 miles on the car to shake it out, the odo said 00011 off the truck. I do not think much happened in CA to be sure all was in order, despite repeated claims that it would.] I am trying to stay positive about all this, as the car really looks and runs very good. I see it and still can't really believe it. The fit and finish are near perfect (loose steering wheel, quickly fixed, excepted) and the colors, leather, canvas, paint are all first rate. I have waxed it and it shines like you would not believe. It is going to be a real winner, once I (and JPS) iron out the kinks.
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PS: what do people who do not have a spare tire (I have 15 gal. tank, so no room for a spare) do about the inevitable flat? What things are carried -- just an AAA card? Pls advise.
(a list)
A few other items: the driving lights are cross wired like fog lights: they come on w/ low beam, and off w/ high beam -- should be easy to fix; one main headlight bucket was not hooked to the retainer on the bumper at the top, only w/ bolt at bottom, so bounced around a bit over the bumps -- chipped some paint :( I was able to hook it up correctly and made it plenty snug; the large (lower) pulley is rubbing on something (part of the tin?) and making aluminum powder down in the pulley well, plus a noise others can hear better than I can. This should take care of itself, as the wear continues; one valve cover hold down bolt was loose, and both VCs were leaking some oil at the 200 mi oil change and valve lash check. Reseating gaskets and tightening the bolts seems to be working; stupid tach wanders all over the place, does not give much sense of confidence -- John said he'd send another. So there it is, in no particualr order. The good and the not-so-good. QC and checking every little thing could be improved a bunch at JPS, and a more factual reporting of the happenings would foster a better sense of trust, IMHO. Like Tom, I love this car, and the whole idea of it. By and large it is well conceived and properly engineered. I think the running gear is done very well. Just want to stop the dreaming and start living the dream.
A few other items: the driving lights are cross wired like fog lights: they come on w/ low beam, and off w/ high beam -- should be easy to fix; one main headlight bucket was not hooked to the retainer on the bumper at the top, only w/ bolt at bottom, so bounced around a bit over the bumps -- chipped some paint :( I was able to hook it up correctly and made it plenty snug; the large (lower) pulley is rubbing on something (part of the tin?) and making aluminum powder down in the pulley well, plus a noise others can hear better than I can. This should take care of itself, as the wear continues; one valve cover hold down bolt was loose, and both VCs were leaking some oil at the 200 mi oil change and valve lash check. Reseating gaskets and tightening the bolts seems to be working; stupid tach wanders all over the place, does not give much sense of confidence -- John said he'd send another. So there it is, in no particualr order. The good and the not-so-good. QC and checking every little thing could be improved a bunch at JPS, and a more factual reporting of the happenings would foster a better sense of trust, IMHO. Like Tom, I love this car, and the whole idea of it. By and large it is well conceived and properly engineered. I think the running gear is done very well. Just want to stop the dreaming and start living the dream.
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A scissors jack and a cell phone -- and towing insurance through USAA. :
Inspect your tires before you drive, keep tire pressure proper and pay attention if the handling goes away (losing tire pressure). If you do those three things, you will go decades without flat tires. Maybe even a lifetime.
Personally, I'm working on the lifetime thing. All the miles and all the cars I've driven, never a roadside flat. Had tires go flat in the garage, had underinflated tires that I quickly rememedied, but not flats.
AAA just in case.
angela
Personally, I'm working on the lifetime thing. All the miles and all the cars I've driven, never a roadside flat. Had tires go flat in the garage, had underinflated tires that I quickly rememedied, but not flats.
AAA just in case.
angela
A spare belt, a fire extinguisher, small bag of small tools to aid some kind soul who stops and knows more than me about how to use them, tonneau (sp?) cover, AAA card, spare key hidden somewhere on car (I will never tell)... those are the things I carry.
James
James
and........
a can of "Fix-A-Flat"
Just in case........
Besides...it's cheap and doesn't take up much space.
a can of "Fix-A-Flat"
Just in case........
Besides...it's cheap and doesn't take up much space.
"the large (lower) pulley is rubbing on something (part of the tin?) and making aluminum powder down in the pulley well, plus a noise others can hear better than I can. This should take care of itself, as the wear continues;"
That's caused by a small over-lap/extension in the after market tin and a tight/close fit of the aluminum degree pulley. Unbolt the pulley and hit the tang with a grinder.
Easy Peasy!
That's caused by a small over-lap/extension in the after market tin and a tight/close fit of the aluminum degree pulley. Unbolt the pulley and hit the tang with a grinder.
Easy Peasy!
Ask him about the tins themselves ... Or was it Tom's car ...
One of 'em has aluminum siding -- with wood grain -- for sheet metal.
One of 'em has aluminum siding -- with wood grain -- for sheet metal.
Woodgrain engine tin!? Where do I get some!???? Retro is very "in" these days.
It's good to hear that in this ever-changing world, some things remain constant. The cycles of the moon.... the tide rolling in and out.... the changing of the seasons..... and John Steele "trimming" out the engine compartment with embossed aluminum siding (unpainted on the bottom, "you'll never see it").
The tins. The concept seems OK, as the engine upper and lower halves are indeed well isolated. But I gotta say the over all aesthetic is very non-automotive. Top is black, bottom is white, cuts are a little sloppy, clearly tin snips used to cut and fit. They appear very functional, but not in the least bit cool. I know a guy who really knows about tins, and maybe I'll be looking to him to figure out a better way.
Meanwhile, for all you gear-heads who must know: The leaky carb is out and close inspection of the port where the needle valve goes in shows a clearance bore some way down followed by a smaller bore into which threads are cut, to accept the threaded needle valve, of course. These two holes do not appear to be exactly concentric, as one might expect. The top of the clearance bore shows very shallow thread markings, cut there when the inner bore was tapped. Only on the top. How this may lead to a leaky O-ring, I'm not too sure, but this is what I see. Inspected the port on other throat, and it too shows signs of light thread cuts on the outer bore, toward one side, not the other, so I am ??? Maybe this is normal, and there is some other trouble here. In any event, the carb is off to JPS Monday, to be relplaced with a new body, and the jets from this carb installed in the new body, and checked for function (how??), or so he says.
Wild Bill, if you're looking: really liked your solution to the throttle linkage bar bearings, etc. I wanna do that. Do you have a How-to posted anywhere?
Meanwhile, for all you gear-heads who must know: The leaky carb is out and close inspection of the port where the needle valve goes in shows a clearance bore some way down followed by a smaller bore into which threads are cut, to accept the threaded needle valve, of course. These two holes do not appear to be exactly concentric, as one might expect. The top of the clearance bore shows very shallow thread markings, cut there when the inner bore was tapped. Only on the top. How this may lead to a leaky O-ring, I'm not too sure, but this is what I see. Inspected the port on other throat, and it too shows signs of light thread cuts on the outer bore, toward one side, not the other, so I am ??? Maybe this is normal, and there is some other trouble here. In any event, the carb is off to JPS Monday, to be relplaced with a new body, and the jets from this carb installed in the new body, and checked for function (how??), or so he says.
Wild Bill, if you're looking: really liked your solution to the throttle linkage bar bearings, etc. I wanna do that. Do you have a How-to posted anywhere?
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Kelly the Hexbar mod is the brainchild of our Spyder Bro Danny Piparato(sp? I tried). You can find the info here:
http://spyderclub.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=8039&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
and here:
http://speedstershop.com/viewtopic.php?t=805
~WB
http://spyderclub.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=8039&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
and here:
http://speedstershop.com/viewtopic.php?t=805
~WB
Kelly,
I always use a piece of pre-painted black sheet aluminum, the type that is used on enclosd car trailers ...bet Tom D. has a source for a piece of this.
I always use a piece of pre-painted black sheet aluminum, the type that is used on enclosd car trailers ...bet Tom D. has a source for a piece of this.
In the past I've been abe to pick up sheets of aluminum sheet at the local ACE hardware store that work just fine.
Kelley:
I'll be doing the hex bar conversion to Pearl in the next couple of weeks (working around the "Urban Renewal" going on with my front porch).
Bill used different bearing/heim joints on his carbs (He and I have Dells) and I've ordered a couple of sets like his to make the linkage work correctly for us.
If mine work out, I'll sell you the extra set (they're under $20 for the pair), and I'll work with Dan to make up a kit of the other parts, too.
gn
I'll be doing the hex bar conversion to Pearl in the next couple of weeks (working around the "Urban Renewal" going on with my front porch).
Bill used different bearing/heim joints on his carbs (He and I have Dells) and I've ordered a couple of sets like his to make the linkage work correctly for us.
If mine work out, I'll sell you the extra set (they're under $20 for the pair), and I'll work with Dan to make up a kit of the other parts, too.
gn
Bill, Gordon, and Danny too, if he looks on, which I guess he doesn't,
The links to the pics are very good. I need to get the parts, and do some surveying, so I can get it all visualized, and then start hacking away. My current set-up is brand new, and already I don't like it. I will have to reset all the spatial adjustments, get things balanced, etc. when the new carb is here, and so that will be my first experience w/ that sort of thing w/ this set up. Any of you guys ever see the way the original cars did this? I do not know what the rods and ball joints were called, but they were a considerable PITA to get set just right. Must have been about five little turnbuckles in the whole set up, with little jam nuts to lock it all down, and those little curly-que retainer wires to keep the balls in the sockets -- ugh. Actually, these big hurky hex bars, and fancy end joints look pretty damn good to me.
The links to the pics are very good. I need to get the parts, and do some surveying, so I can get it all visualized, and then start hacking away. My current set-up is brand new, and already I don't like it. I will have to reset all the spatial adjustments, get things balanced, etc. when the new carb is here, and so that will be my first experience w/ that sort of thing w/ this set up. Any of you guys ever see the way the original cars did this? I do not know what the rods and ball joints were called, but they were a considerable PITA to get set just right. Must have been about five little turnbuckles in the whole set up, with little jam nuts to lock it all down, and those little curly-que retainer wires to keep the balls in the sockets -- ugh. Actually, these big hurky hex bars, and fancy end joints look pretty damn good to me.
Kelly - alert! -alert!
Both Jeff's roller and my car had damage to the steering coupler. John thinks the transport driver used the steering box or shaft as an anchor point. If so it is likely he did it to your car as well. Get under there and take a very close look BEFORE you drive again. This makes total sense given the damage I saw to my coupler. Perfectly consistant with a downward force.
Both Jeff's roller and my car had damage to the steering coupler. John thinks the transport driver used the steering box or shaft as an anchor point. If so it is likely he did it to your car as well. Get under there and take a very close look BEFORE you drive again. This makes total sense given the damage I saw to my coupler. Perfectly consistant with a downward force.
Yikes!
Kelly, I was out of town for the last couple days doing some 'fun' stuff. PM sent on the contacts you need.
Roger that on sheet metal work. Standing by. Have sheet aluminum already.
No problem on lines and fittings. Standing by to install; PM w/suggestions.
AN stuff -- AutoFab location in the PM; number is 410.796.2006.
Copy that on the steering coupler; we will happily have a look if you find damage.
Downer -- I usually have my phone within arm's reach. Try it if it's urgent. I may not check mail for days. :)
Kelly, I was out of town for the last couple days doing some 'fun' stuff. PM sent on the contacts you need.
Roger that on sheet metal work. Standing by. Have sheet aluminum already.
No problem on lines and fittings. Standing by to install; PM w/suggestions.
AN stuff -- AutoFab location in the PM; number is 410.796.2006.
Copy that on the steering coupler; we will happily have a look if you find damage.
Downer -- I usually have my phone within arm's reach. Try it if it's urgent. I may not check mail for days. :)
"John thinks the transport driver used the steering box or shaft as an anchor point."
........now that's funny!
........now that's funny!
A two strap system is SOP on a transporter of this type.
Tom/Kelly describe the coupler damage in detail
Tom/Kelly describe the coupler damage in detail
Everyone has an opinion about something so I'll toss mine in, worth anything or not. It looks to me, just looking at a couple of photos here, but, I'd be figuring out a bit more safe or secure way to mount the seat belts or the seats them selves.
It just looks like the washers may be a bit small, and that they would pull right thru the floor pan.
It just looks like the washers may be a bit small, and that they would pull right thru the floor pan.
Replace with 3" x 3" x1/8" steel plates
Might be a good idea to consider undercoating, too, eh? That's a nice series of bilateral rust holes waiting in the wings ... IMHO ...
I will ask John Steele how he fixes in the seat belt thingy. That "pan" you see there in ther transported pictures is part of the JPS built-up tube frame addition vs, std ca. 1974 VW pan. Is a right solid piece, welded to the tube frame. Not sure what gauge steel it is. Has been thoroughly etched and cleaned then painted w/ some sort of tough stuff. Has bed-liner material applied on the inside. Larger body washers for the hold-downs might be a good idea, even so. Already did the undercoat thing on these penetrations on my car, plus went around w/ the wrench and made sure all were tight -- some took a few more turns.
Under-car inspection completed at front end and nothing peculiar noted about the steering coupler, or any other stuff there.
Also, removed lower pulley to find out where it was rubbing, and why. Saw lower fwd tin to be culprit. This tin is sprung a bit aft, compared to where it might be able to go, on account of how it is bent up at its attachment points. Could remove and bend more appropriately, but quick fix is to add a spring at bottom to keep the tin pulled tight against the engine case in this location, and hence out of the way of the pulley. PS: Tin shows signs of having been "adjusted" by the village smithy, but this was not effective because of the springiness of the part keeps it coming aft, even after it has been beaten. Will send picture of fix later on, as this is sure to amuse.
Also, removed lower pulley to find out where it was rubbing, and why. Saw lower fwd tin to be culprit. This tin is sprung a bit aft, compared to where it might be able to go, on account of how it is bent up at its attachment points. Could remove and bend more appropriately, but quick fix is to add a spring at bottom to keep the tin pulled tight against the engine case in this location, and hence out of the way of the pulley. PS: Tin shows signs of having been "adjusted" by the village smithy, but this was not effective because of the springiness of the part keeps it coming aft, even after it has been beaten. Will send picture of fix later on, as this is sure to amuse.
Kelly... The piece of tin you mention may need a bit of tin snipping to clear the back side of the crank pulley.
Could also be the 13mm head bolts behind it may need to be ground down a bit so they are not pushing against the tin.
Could also be the 13mm head bolts behind it may need to be ground down a bit so they are not pushing against the tin.
Some pics to fill in the details. The tin had obviously been beat w/ hammer and screw driver to force it back and away from the pulley. Too much spring in the tin mounting to allow much motion. Some blows apparently rended a hole in the tin against the oil pump on other side. Little place just below this hole is where the interference is noted. A spring attached between engine and tin on the othr side (second pic) pulls the tin away from pulley, and keeps it there. Haven't run the thing yet -- still waiting for the carb to be returned -- but believe this is a fix: inellegant, but workable. May have to get a new tin and work it so it natually lays against the engine when all tightened down.
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Unbelievable!
I think it's great that those German engine designers, way back in the 30's and 40's, had the forethought to put that tab and hole there just to accept a future engine-tin-relief spring to let the tin fit with a thick, aftermarket aluminum pulley.
Those guys thought of everything!
Those guys thought of everything!
It looks a problem with the oil pump. You have a cast iron Melling hi-volume pump or the like, along with an oil cooler outlet in place of the thin aluminum stocker and flat steel plate.
When you install the pumps with the thicker housings, you have to drill four holes in the pulley tin in order for the 13mm oil sealing nuts to protrude. The nuts sit nicely in behind the pulley and the holes alloy the tin to seat against the case correctly. With the oil take-offs, a small oval hole or bulge is often in order. Not always, but it's a good idea.
Either one, it's best to clearance the tine BEFORE it's installed rather than wack it with a hammer later on..
It's well worth the trouble to remove the rear tin, pulley, and pulley tin. Grab some genuine VW pulley tin, drill, cut, paint and reinstall.
Kinda looks homemade. That's a bit surprising.
Why should he have to buy it, the builder should replace it.
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Probably could find a good tin piece locally w/out much trouble, and then go about seating it properly. Cory Drake has many contacts. At this point, I am getting some fatigue w/ hasseling JPS about all the niggly things he forgot or didn't do very well. Meanwhile, I am on to this problem, have a workable fix, UPS says new carb will be here today, and am SO anxious to get back on the road and find out what else needs fixing. So stay tuned . . .
PS: I showed this picture of banged up tin to JPS, and expressed some level of dismay. He offered the null response -- silence.
PS: I showed this picture of banged up tin to JPS, and expressed some level of dismay. He offered the null response -- silence.
Kelly,
I can guide you through the tin fix... call me over the weekend 717 860 8476 Alan
I can guide you through the tin fix... call me over the weekend 717 860 8476 Alan