My left front outer wheel bearing (on the brake drum) broke apart; how do I get this thing off? There is some kind of cable (speedometer?) in the center of the hub that will be in the way of a bearing puller's center bolt.
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My left front outer wheel bearing (on the brake drum) broke apart; how do I get this thing off? There is some kind of cable (speedometer?) in the center of the hub that will be in the way of a bearing puller's center bolt.
remove the cotter pin from the speedometer drive, then pull the speedo cable out from the rear of the brake assembly (just reach behind the brake back plate and pull it through).
Then, remove the dust cap and the lock nut (it spins backwards on the left side) and then the entire drum, bearings and all, should pull right off. I doubt that you'll need a puller, unless something is jammed in there.
Then, remove the dust cap and the lock nut (it spins backwards on the left side) and then the entire drum, bearings and all, should pull right off. I doubt that you'll need a puller, unless something is jammed in there.
Thanks Gordon; I didn't know you could pull the cable out from the back.
I replaced the brake shoes a couple weeks ago without removing the cable, and by yanking on the drum it did come off. This time no matter what I do the brake drum and bearing will not budge. I even tried putting the wheel back on so I can get a better grip; no luck.
I replaced the brake shoes a couple weeks ago without removing the cable, and by yanking on the drum it did come off. This time no matter what I do the brake drum and bearing will not budge. I even tried putting the wheel back on so I can get a better grip; no luck.
I think you'll be replacing the spindle also. Maybe a bit too tight when you put the axle nut back on after the brakes--now welded.
Story #2, you may be pulling on the drum and it's not the bearing that's holding you but the show adjustment(if you are lucky). Back them off
a bit give it another pull.--Good luck.
Story #2, you may be pulling on the drum and it's not the bearing that's holding you but the show adjustment(if you are lucky). Back them off
a bit give it another pull.--Good luck.
it's actually a tiny circlip not a cotter pin. stick a rag over it as ytou undo it. mine went flying across the garage and it took a good 10 minutes to find it.
speedo cable slides right out the back. the bearings need to be pressed in/out of the drum, but I've done several ones by gently tapping with a large (36mm) socket. careful not to score the bearing face.
everything else is very stright forward.
speedo cable slides right out the back. the bearings need to be pressed in/out of the drum, but I've done several ones by gently tapping with a large (36mm) socket. careful not to score the bearing face.
everything else is very stright forward.
Yeah, it was a circlip. And the axle nut came off easily once I loosened the allen bolt in it.
What has actually failed is the metal ring that guides/spaces the individual rollers in the bearing. Right now the rollers are still in place but the only evidence that guide was ever there is the fine metal shavings in the grease. I only noticed the problem because every now and then one of the rollers went crooked resulting in a weird noise and slight seizing of the wheel.
If I yank on the drum it will move a millimeter or two due to the play in the bearing, and it still turns freely.
I'm not sure what is keeping the bearing from separating, isn't it supposed to be three separate pieces?
What has actually failed is the metal ring that guides/spaces the individual rollers in the bearing. Right now the rollers are still in place but the only evidence that guide was ever there is the fine metal shavings in the grease. I only noticed the problem because every now and then one of the rollers went crooked resulting in a weird noise and slight seizing of the wheel.
If I yank on the drum it will move a millimeter or two due to the play in the bearing, and it still turns freely.
I'm not sure what is keeping the bearing from separating, isn't it supposed to be three separate pieces?
Not really.....
The bearing itself is supposed to hold all of the rollers inside of a captive, double sided cage. If it has come apart, then simple forces within the hub will allow the rollers to move out of place and quickly cause it to detonate, making pieces of metal move in all sorts of directions that they're not supposed to, often gouging the inner and outer races.
If it has detonated that badly, then you may, indeed, need a pulley or drum puller to get it off the spindle, and I'm afraid that your spindle is toast, too.
If you're very lucky, the inner bearing races haven't been damaged. They should look like a mirror when cleaned, with no nicks or scratches anywhere. That's if you're lucky, which I doubt that you were.
In THAT unlucky case, you'll have to replace the spindle, too. (sorry)
In THAT case, You have to buy a new spindle, along with a new drum, two new bearings and a new inner seal.
Put it all together and preload the bearing by tightening the nut finger tight while spinning the drum, then, using a wrench, tighten the nut 1/4-turn only. Spin the drum a turn or two, then back off the spindle nut 1/8-turn and tighten the lock bolt. You're done (except for replacing the dust cap and speedo cable).
I honestly think that you've damaged the spindle, so replacing just the bearing and using the same drum will just damage the spindle (and probably the drum) more. Replace everything, get it over with and do it right.......
The bearing itself is supposed to hold all of the rollers inside of a captive, double sided cage. If it has come apart, then simple forces within the hub will allow the rollers to move out of place and quickly cause it to detonate, making pieces of metal move in all sorts of directions that they're not supposed to, often gouging the inner and outer races.
If it has detonated that badly, then you may, indeed, need a pulley or drum puller to get it off the spindle, and I'm afraid that your spindle is toast, too.
If you're very lucky, the inner bearing races haven't been damaged. They should look like a mirror when cleaned, with no nicks or scratches anywhere. That's if you're lucky, which I doubt that you were.
In THAT unlucky case, you'll have to replace the spindle, too. (sorry)
In THAT case, You have to buy a new spindle, along with a new drum, two new bearings and a new inner seal.
Put it all together and preload the bearing by tightening the nut finger tight while spinning the drum, then, using a wrench, tighten the nut 1/4-turn only. Spin the drum a turn or two, then back off the spindle nut 1/8-turn and tighten the lock bolt. You're done (except for replacing the dust cap and speedo cable).
I honestly think that you've damaged the spindle, so replacing just the bearing and using the same drum will just damage the spindle (and probably the drum) more. Replace everything, get it over with and do it right.......
Yeah, do it right. If there is anything wrong w/any one part of the bearing system, (the disintegrated part you describe is the bearing cage) yank it all and replace new EVEN if it looks all smooth and shiny. Costs are minimal and you can't see the little bit of out of round, or wear that will make all the difference. The outer race (in the drum) most likely can be teased out by driving the inner lip w/ a drift and hammer taps a little at a time around the rim. There should be just enough edge showing from the other (in) side to allow purchase. And remember: you are replpacing this, so banging it up and denting the edge does not matter. The right way to do it, is use a press, but most of us shade-tree types don't have such stuff. wrt the spindle, how about a close up picture? Maybe this is not so toasted. I ran a bearing dry for quite a while once, turning the balls to dust, and all that was wasted were the bearing parts. You can test the spindle w/ the new bearing by placing the inner race on it and see if it goes on w/ no wobble, or, if you can get it on at all: should be a nice even slip-fit, no pounding required. Post a pic or two -- can do?
Stephan,
If you try and make do with a damaged spindle surface -you'll be doing it again in a few weeks. Not trying to insult but your bearing problem was caused by 1 of a few things;
1. crap replacement parts(if you replaced the bearings when you did the brakes)
2. installing "unpacked" (no grease) bearings
3. over or under tightened (probable over) axle nut
When you finally get back to the install point have someone double check your "feel" on the nut. It would be smart to double check the other wheel at this point also.
Good luck.
If you try and make do with a damaged spindle surface -you'll be doing it again in a few weeks. Not trying to insult but your bearing problem was caused by 1 of a few things;
1. crap replacement parts(if you replaced the bearings when you did the brakes)
2. installing "unpacked" (no grease) bearings
3. over or under tightened (probable over) axle nut
When you finally get back to the install point have someone double check your "feel" on the nut. It would be smart to double check the other wheel at this point also.
Good luck.
OK, so I finally got the sucker apart.
I really appreciate all the advice; I am certain now that I over tightened the axle nut when I replaced my brake shoes.
I was expecting the worst, but the outer bearing races looked OK. Even the rollers were undamaged, and the spindle and inner bearing were perfect. The only damage was to the bearing cage itself, and I think I must have caught it really early.
I dislodged a small flexible metal ring from the seal when I was removing the bearings; does anyone know where it's supposed to go and what it's for?
At some point I want to do the disc brake conversion and I was probably going to go with dropped spindles, I don't want to replace anything I don't have to.
I really appreciate all the advice; I am certain now that I over tightened the axle nut when I replaced my brake shoes.
I was expecting the worst, but the outer bearing races looked OK. Even the rollers were undamaged, and the spindle and inner bearing were perfect. The only damage was to the bearing cage itself, and I think I must have caught it really early.
I dislodged a small flexible metal ring from the seal when I was removing the bearings; does anyone know where it's supposed to go and what it's for?
At some point I want to do the disc brake conversion and I was probably going to go with dropped spindles, I don't want to replace anything I don't have to.
Stephen...The "ring" is most likely part of the grease/oil seal...
There is no fix, it will have to be replaced....If you had a cage collapse, you need to remove both bearings from the drum, clean the drum, replace the damaged bearing and oil seal for sure....It's cheap insurance to replace the other bearing at this time as metal particles may have started a wear pattern which can accelerate the bearings failure.....
Hope this helps....
Leon C.
There is no fix, it will have to be replaced....If you had a cage collapse, you need to remove both bearings from the drum, clean the drum, replace the damaged bearing and oil seal for sure....It's cheap insurance to replace the other bearing at this time as metal particles may have started a wear pattern which can accelerate the bearings failure.....
Hope this helps....
Leon C.
PS.....Don't for get to pack the bearing cavity when packing the bearings.....
Sorry about that....
Leon C.
Sorry about that....
Leon C.
DO NOT CHEAP-OUT! Replace all bearing parts. Costs are minimal, and time spent is just a bit longer. Biggest issue is getting the outer race out of the drum. Do it right, and deal w/ both sides. Use plenty of grease, and follow instructions given above about snugging up, but not honking down, the spindle split-nut. Snug, not tight.