gotcha..............
so awesome on so many levels.
so awesome on so many levels.
x2!
Pretty happy? Ecstatic! Nice work. Can't wait to pick up that bad boy.
Doug- What's the motor?
that looks like a fun place to 'work'!
Thanks guys, and Mango it has it's up and downs like most places. The cool part is it has more ups then downs, and it has moments that are unreal. Like the other day there were a couple of speedsters and the ghia up on the rack along with a few other sweet rides that we were working on, I forget what I was doing, but I turned around and saw all of these rides sitting there and I thought to myself is this really my shop...... Needless to say a pinch was in order...... I'm a very lucky guy.......
Alb, as far as motor, Doug currently has a 2110 I think. It currently has a lot of chrome and is not very sexy...... I think I may have to see to some up grades in the engine bay area (at least in looks)
Check out the 1947 Split window beetle I'm working on. Already did 4 wheel disc brakes, a bullet proof trans, customized some early after market wheels, and now I'm making this 2276cc motor look like it might have been an option back in 1947....
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As always Kevin, you do some pretty neat stuff. And Doug, you're a funny boy! Al
You are correct ALB, I was trying to be a buffoon
I do not know what my engine is spec-wise, other than it's a Type 1 with Weber carbs (former owner says 2235cc displacement, but he didn't do the engine work and there is no paperwork). I'll make sure before and after pics get posted and Kevin says he will take measurements which I'll post as well
You do awesome work Kevin. That rollbar looks exactly like what we talked about. Bravo! You really nailed it. Thank you.
Kevin - You got some serious skilz, my brutha!!
Kevin - Don't forget the half parcel tray for speedsters. You gotta fab that!
Thank you gentlemen. The roll bars are available for Vintage, CMC, and Intermecanica. And can be ordered as a kit the you would assemble, or a completely assembled kit with powder coat if needed. The best part is that we have made them as a bolt in unit, that the average guy could install in a couple of hours....
Kevin
You most likely have installed a number of Porsche 901 gearboxes in pan based air cooled cars, so I'd like to ask you for some advice.
My mechanic is in the process of installing a 901 gearbox in my IM, which is pan based. The problem is using the stock shifter (actually a Vintage Speed) he can't it set up so reverse is locked out. Right now it locks out sometimes, but not always, which could be disastrous.
When installing a 901 gearbox have you always gone with a Porsche 5 speed shifter? Is that the only way I'm going to get reverse locked out?
Thanks
Ron
So, what are these lovely roll bars priced at?
Will the soft top hardware still operate in place on a Vintage?
Ron,
I'm going to have to check and see if the 901 has an internal reverse lock out spring. If not there may be a way to adjust the shifter so it does not let it into that position.
Bob G,
I'm pretty sure we can send them out in three different ways.
1) Un-welded as a build your own kit for around $320
2) completely welded without paint or powder coat $420
3) complete and powder coated for $700
Tom,
Yes it will clear a soft top low bow and the optional hard top.
Kevin,
Any plans to add headrests or are you leaving that up to the customer? Nice looking bar. Addresses 2 of my speedster fears; a rollover, and (with headrests) would help from snapping necks if rear ended.
Ron, I've used and seen those shifters, don't waist your money.
Tom,
we can set these up for head rest. Ill look at these and come up with something vintage and stylish.
this will defiantly add safety to any speedster....
That is by far the nicest roll bar set up that I've seen.....really good work, I reckon that it wouldn't be too hard to add a plate on to the hoops and then add a padded headrest onto it.
Kudos to you........always upping the bar.
I fabbed my own double roll bar of 2" stainless pipe, welded to the frame of a wide body VS, about 15 years ago. My costs, including welding labor, and fiberglass materials, were around $2500. That's with me doing lots of the work myself. They look cool, but they aren't cheap to either make or install. Kevin's price is very realistic.
Just so we are clear, this cost does not include the two forward door kickers.
Also we build ours out of 1080DOM steel, chromoly and stainless would be more but could bburn option. Stainless would be pretty costly, but would be pretty....
Kevin,
Any plans to add headrests or are you leaving that up to the customer? Nice looking bar. Addresses 2 of my speedster fears; a rollover, and (with headrests) would help from snapping necks if rear ended.
I think someone said it best a while back, "There's just 3/8 of an inch of plastic between you and life ever after". If you get rear ended you will have an engine enema in these cars. If the car rolls a roll bar may help but only a little. Your best bet is to be thrown clear. Side impact, front impact... forgetaboutit.
Accidents are just not an option with these cars.
Rusty,
My intent is to keep minor crashes from causing catastrophic injury. I suspect this device may offer a better chance of escaping serious injury or death in the event of a low speed rollover or, with headrests in place, prevent serious cerebral-spinal injury in the event of a low speed (15-25.mph) rear-ender. 15 mph probably wouldn't cause your "engine enema", but it sure as heck would cause some serious whip injuries. Granted this device would not be perfect, but it looks like it may improve your odds in some common situations.
Tom, This exactly what we are trying to promote (besides good looks). Quite a few people do not under stand the true strength of structural fiberglass like our cars are make out of. Hell Corvettes have been made out of much lighter stuff since they started being built back in the 50's. They weigh more and can go a lot faster. The nice thing about our little cars is that if they get hit hard enough, a lot of the impact will be taken up by the fiber glass flexing and bending (kinda like a crumple zone), then because of how light and small they are the car will actually slide, thus taking more of the impact force. Our roll bar set up will increase your chances in a roll over, and impacts. With the head rest option, it will definitely help if your rear ended.
So what value do you folks have for added safety? Peace of mind is a valuable thing.
If I was to add your roll bar, I would probably add something more than simple lap style seat belts and go the shoulder and lap type multi point harness style.
For me the addition of a roll bar would cause me to re-think what I want the car to be. It is of the Classic variety in appearance now so adding a roll bar would probably make me change a variety of other things, stance, bumpers off, badging goes away etc. and head to a more Outlaw look.
Just my take, virtually worthless to anybody but me, as it should be!
Bob,
Not to further complcate the issue, but adding 3, 4, 5, or 6 point belts is a great safety feature, ONLY if the belts are attached properly. In a Speedster, this entails the need for a harness bar, since the attachment of the belt to the rear of the seat shouldn't be more than 40 degrees from level. If you run the webbing down to the floor behind the seats for attachment, you almost guarantee a spinal compression injury in event of a collision, as the severe angle of the belt forces the body in a downward motion instead of holding the body firmly against the seat.
In my coupe, I was able to use the "b" pillar as an attachment point, keeping the rear angle just about horizontal. We all hope we never need the safety features we add, but it is counter-productive to add things that increase our vulnerablity. There are lots of how-to articles on how to attach belts the proper way.
Jim:
I remember your same comments from an earlier thread, and I agree. If I were to add multi point that would be the way I'd go.
Thanks for the clarification.
Kevin- Would one have to step up to 16" (or 17"?) wheels to fit the larger diameter disc and bigger caliper assemblies or would original 15" Fuchs alloys work? And how much more would these weigh, compared to a Karmann Ghia disc/caliper combo?
PS- VERY COOL, btw! Al
Well were finally getting back on Doug's Speedster to finish it up and I'm sure he can hardly wait..... Thanks Doug for your patience. I have taken the extra time to detail the engine bay free of charge for his waiting. I hope he likes what I've done so far.... Still not done got more paint and clean up to go, but here is a sneak preview....
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Looks awesome Kevin!!!
Wow Kevin! To repeat everyone else.
and vise grips too! ;-)
Kevin- Are the 11" vented rotor/caliper assemblies heavier than their Karmann Ghia counterparts? And are 16" wheels needed if using the 12 1/2" discs and calipers?
Yea Vise grips, these early Intermechanica's .......
Alb,
If your just weighing the rotor yes by about 1.5 lbs If your weighing rotor and caliper no, they are lighter.
Yes 16 or 17 inch wheels are needed to run the 12.5's