Jack point hole cover fix?

clear or white (in your case) silicon would do the job.  Like used to seal around bath tubs.

If you are going to use silicone, and I'm not sure that's the best idea, I'd be using a neutral cure rather than an acetic bathroom silicone. Neutral cure is better for outdoors, and less likely to make a mess of paint etc as it doesn't have the same acidic composition as bathroom and tile silicone.

Having said that, is the cap supposed to be removable? If not, I'd be more inclined to use something like sikaflex, which is a lot stronger than silicone and won't get brittle over time like silicone

If it was mine, I’d find a secure way to glue/attach a 356 torsion plate on the back of the round fiberglass disc and attach using the supplied bracket as original. That would make removing and easy operation if needed.

Thanks guys, all very helpful.  The hole is purely aesthetic, there’s no actual mounting point attachment like in an original car.  You just put the jack under the tubular frame.  I just want to make sure once I put it back on, it never comes off again.  I’ll check out the sikaflex product.

That is not a jack point hole. It is a cover to remove the torsion bars. Do you have torsion bars or do you have a coilover suspension?

@LI-Rick posted:

That is not a jack point hole. It is a cover to remove the torsion bars. Do you have torsion bars or do you have a coilover suspension?

Coilover

It is functional as access to torsion bars since you can run either torsion bars or coil over on our rear.  You have coil over so it is unused in your case.  

They were just glued (methyl methacrylate) to a stud with a flange and metal backer, just like an original as pictured above.  The other piece is under the car in your photo.  If overtightened (which likely happened when we installed them) it cracks the glue and it will fail over time.   You can re-glue them, but we now tab over the top of the backer with fiberglass after they are glued so they can never come apart.  You can send all the pieces to me and I can reattach it and glass it up and send it back.  If you are just going to reglue it, use something 2 part like JB Weld and just snug the nut lightly on the backer bracket when installing.

@chines1 posted:

It is functional as access to torsion bars since you can run either torsion bars or coil over on our rear.  You have coil over so it is unused in your case.  

They were just glued (methyl methacrylate) to a stud with a flange and metal backer, just like an original as pictured above.  The other piece is under the car in your photo.  If overtightened (which likely happened when we installed them) it cracks the glue and it will fail over time.   You can re-glue them, but we now tab over the top of the backer with fiberglass after they are glued so they can never come apart.  You can send all the pieces to me and I can reattach it and glass it up and send it back.  If you are just going to reglue it, use something 2 part like JB Weld and just snug the nut lightly on the backer bracket when installing.

Now that is service! Great job Carey.

@550aus posted:

If not, I'd be more inclined to use something like sikaflex, which is a lot stronger than silicone and won't get brittle over time like silicone

Wow, 71 trips around the sun and this is the first I hear of Sikaflex. And twice in one week!

The seal on the end caps of my 25 year old RV is showing its age, so I reached out to Newmar to see what they recommend. Sikaflex 505UV. Specifically for outdoor use.

Personally, I’d use 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive aka Monkey Snot, but it sounds like Carey has a better option.  

In related news: over the winter my Accuride aluminum wheels got some water spotting. I tried a couple of solutions I thought might work and none were satisfactory. The best was Gibbs Brand and a non-scratching scouring pad,  (blue Scotchbrite) but it took a lot of elbow grease. Someone on the iRV forum recommended this, and it looks like just the thing for you guys with polished Vintage 190s or Rudge repros (if they’re not clear coated)

I’m going to give it a shot and then (hopefully) maintain the finish with Gibbs Brand.

@chines1 posted:

The other piece is under the car in your photo.

That's so funny, of course it was right there and I didn't even spot it.  Thank you Carey, that's awfully nice of you, I think I'll take you up on it and ship these pieces to you in Bremen, I'll throw a pre-paid UPS label in the package too so it's easy to send it back.  Thank you!!!!

unbolt the other side and sent it also, I'll glass it too so it doesn't fall off down the line

@dlearl476 posted:

Wow, 71 trips around the sun and this is the first I hear of Sikaflex. And twice in one week!

It's good stuff, and stays flexible, unlike silicone. You can get it in varying degrees of flexibility depending on how much movement you have to allow for