Jack points and jack for 2017 Intermeccanica 356 A

I have a 2005 Intermeccanica Speedster, and always jack on the beam in the front - but that's because I have a VW T1 front suspension. Intermeccanica did a lot of alternate front ends, especially as more and more cars became Subaru powered.

You could have a 914 front end, a 911 front end, or a VW beam. All have different jack-points.

On the spec sheet it states Porsche 914 rack with “Turbo”tie rods. I Did It steering column, Subaru EJ25 engine.

@Mike Dowd Here's the thing. Aircooled Speedsters, whether pan based or frame will usually raise the whole side of the car if you jack from under the back of the door.

Since you have a Subaru-powered IM with 914 font suspension your car balances in a different spot. There is far more weight up front.

In my opinion it is fine to jack from either directly under the heavy part of the triangular lower control arm OR from the rearmost part of the front control arm bushing BUT NOT JACK DIRECTLY ON the torsion bar adjuster.

FYI, 914 and 911 front suspension are identical with the exception of a steel versus aluminum crossmember(1984 and up only, early cars are the same) and the hubs(914-4 x130, 911 5 x 130 lug pattern). You may be able to jack from the crossmember but I'm not sure. The crossmember is what the steering rack bolts to.

Search "Porsche 914 jack points" online.

Okay.  On my 2016 Intermeccanica, there are two jacking points that I use, depending on whether it's a front or a rear tire that needs to be removed.

Henry makes a very strong frame for these cars.  I have a very low scissors jack that I slide under the car from the side, and carefully place it under the side frame structure, making sure it can't slip.  Find a spot along the side frame that gives the jack enough 'grip' to be secure.  You don't want the jack to slip out, as the body will then come down, and you will crack the body sill.

I never jack mine from the front crossmember, or any part of the rear set up.  I always use the side beams of the frame, and I have never had any issues.  Actually, if you place the jack in the correct spot, you can jack the entire side of the car up, and can change both the front and the rear tire at once.

As my car has all Porsche 911 mechanicals, your situation may differ from what works for me, in term of balance (as Danny says above).  But I still think the side frame is a good spot for a jacking point.

I should say, I ALWAYS use jack stands once I get the car up high enough.  Place them right beside where the jack contact point is.

(The above is just opinion based on my experience, not a legal prescription...)

Whatever you do, use more caution than normal.  You don't want to hurt yourself, or your precious car.  I always check carefully as I am jacking the car up that all is well.

I never did like the way my old IM beam car had to be jacked up as I was always worried it would slip off.  

Fast forward to 2014 when my new IM was built I told Henry and he suggested he weld these Jack Locks on the frame for me to use in the jacking process.  I insert the top of the scissor jack like below red (the base on mine is shorter) into the frame square LOCK, and I can lift the whole side of the car for front or rear tire removal.  

BTW, I use the original 3500 Quickjack (QJ) for most small maintenance on the car.  As I write this it is up on the QJ for minor pre season stuff I have to do.

These types of small details were the nice touches he added that only a custom builder can offer if your DIY skills are not up to the challenge.  The madness though keeps upgrades coming on a continual basis.

That's a great idea, Ray, on the jacking points welded on the frame.

How come you didn't mention that to me when my car was being built? 

@Bob: IM S6 posted:

That's a great idea, Ray, on the jacking points welded on the frame.

How come you didn't mention that to me when my car was being built? 

I should of preempted this post by LOL , because I had a similar sentiment when I discovered other options after my car was painted and being built.  

Back to the discussion.

Well, I did not realize at the time, that you had to do all kinds of pre signup investigation before you ordered a car as there were a lot of hidden options that could only be had if you knew about them, or asked about them which is in the end all in the realm of the builder.  Most owners get some, but it is hard to know all the potential options that are available.  Some Card players hold their cards closer to their chest.

ie:  JaCK points, Front wheel arches, Pie cuts, 944 rear brakes and rotors for those who want hub centric balancing.  Full 911 rear end, etc etc.  

A little late to the discussion, but I lift my 2005 IM Roadster using the square frame joint, which is aligned near the rear of the door cuts. Front and rear each come off the ground, rear first, the front after only one or two more pumps on the floor jack.

That's Henry's recommendation; and he's correct! ;-)