Jack Points for CMC

You can also lift at the area I circled so you can put jacks stands under the areas you circled. It gets both sides up at the same time.

Fir the front of the car I lift at the center of the beam and put jack stands under the outermost edges of the beam.

I used the search function on here and got something even stupider-simple:

https://www.speedsterowners.co...ng-points-for-vw-pan

@Robert M posted:

You can also lift at the area I circled so you can put jacks stands under the areas you circled. It gets both sides up at the same time.

Fir the front of the car I lift at the center of the beam and put jack stands under the outermost edges of the beam.

Are you referring to this area marked by the arrows?  

In my next reply below this one, I also uploaded a photo you had posted in another thread pointing out the same area, but just trying to make it super clear.  There was a photo out there showing just this Y-shaped "wishbone" part, but I can't find it unfortunately.  You're saying at the point where the Y-split joins, as marked by my arrows?:

@Gordon Nichols posted:

I used the search function on here and got something even stupider-simple:

https://www.speedsterowners.co...ng-points-for-vw-pan

Thanks, I saw that one too (ps only accessible by supporting members as I'm sure you're aware but if someone's wondering why they can't access it).  As well as a few other similar schematic-based photos.  Other posts also try to describe it using photos of just the car parts isolated floating in space, like a product photo of JUST the torsion bars.  That was helpful too.

But I wanted a stupidest-simple version where it's pointed out exactly on the car.  Like any more clear would involve someone marking an X on the spot on my actual car with a sharpie!

Just didn't want to take the 1% chance that I was misinterpreting the other discussions and wind up twisting some metal somewhere.  Or worse.

Speaking of, here are a motley collection of relevant photos from other jack point discussions in one place for any future readers for convenience.  I think they're easier to understand in the context of my original photos of this thread, but still recommend reading about these in the context of their own threads...:

@Sean Seena posted:

Are you referring to this area marked by the arrows?  

In my next reply below this one, I also uploaded a photo you had posted in another thread pointing out the same area, but just trying to make it super clear.  There was a photo out there showing just this Y-shaped "wishbone" part, but I can't find it unfortunately.  You're saying at the point where the Y-split joins, as marked by my arrows?:

Yes. I use that spot exclusively so I can put the jack stands under both sides of the tube you have as colored green in your first post before lowering the car back down on to the jack stands.

I use a 2x4 right where the tubes split apart and jack on it so I can avoid the drain hole with the rubber valve.

@Sean Seena posted:

That appears to be an exposed bundle of wires next to the torsion end cover.  Be careful, that could be a mess if you get those caught under a jack or a jackstand!   I would be really tempted to put some type of protection over them.  Maybe a piece of corrugated split loom and secured with zip ties?

James

@James posted:

That appears to be an exposed bundle of wires next to the torsion end cover.  Be careful, that could be a mess if you get those caught under a jack or a jackstand!   I would be really tempted to put some type of protection over them.  Maybe a piece of corrugated split loom and secured with zip ties?

James

Good catch James. I was so focused on the torsion bar I didn't see the wires.

@Robert M @Michael McKelvey thanks, the Y/wishbone knowledge is good stuff.   I lifted the car today and I used a square 2x4 at the jack point, but I don't think that's a good idea.  Esp in the garage I'm in now, where there's a slight grade.  I felt like the 2x4 did a slight "seesaw" tilt action wrt the round torsion tube, no bueno.  Next time I think I should just let my jack's teeth contact directly (better than the car dropping).   Or use one of these hard rubber jack pucks (https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-...lotted/dp/B06WRMSHP2), because the torsion bar might stay stuck in the slot of the puck?  But any wisdom here would be appreciated.

@James Good catch, actually you might be able to notice that I had removed the purple overlay from the wires in order to show and ask "Hey what's up with this wiring is it normal??"  But forgot, thanks for bringing attn to it.  Sounds like it's not normal.  

Today I did the poor man's method of just avoiding the area with wiring  But if someone looks at it from a higher angle, it's not apparent that there's wiring down there.  Hopefully future-me will remember...  I would think the corrugated loom probably wouldn't completely protect the wires under that type of load (but the crinkling sound of the plastic might be a good warning...)

I'm going to have a closer look at the wiring, maybe I can get it away from the torsion tube.

@Sean Seena posted:

@Robert M @Michael McKelvey thanks, the Y/wishbone knowledge is good stuff.   I lifted the car today and I used a square 2x4 at the jack point, but I don't think that's a good idea.  Esp in the garage I'm in now, where there's a slight grade.  I felt like the 2x4 did a slight "seesaw" tilt action wrt the round torsion tube, no bueno.  Next time I think I should just let my jack's teeth contact directly (better than the car dropping).   Or use one of these hard rubber jack pucks (https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-...lotted/dp/B06WRMSHP2), because the torsion bar might stay stuck in the slot of the puck?  But any wisdom here would be appreciated.

@James Good catch, actually you might be able to notice that I had removed the purple overlay from the wires in order to show and ask "Hey what's up with this wiring is it normal??"  But forgot, thanks for bringing attn to it.  Sounds like it's not normal.  

Today I did the poor man's method of just avoiding the area with wiring  But if someone looks at it from a higher angle, it's not apparent that there's wiring down there.  Hopefully future-me will remember...  I would think the corrugated loom probably wouldn't completely protect the wires under that type of load (but the crinkling sound of the plastic might be a good warning...)

I'm going to have a closer look at the wiring, maybe I can get it away from the torsion tube.

I just let the jack contact the flat section of the "Y" point. I also chock the front wheels so there's no forward roll. It's actually a good idea to chock both sides of the tire to prevent roll and if there's a slope to the floor it'll help keep the ca from moving ig the jack rolls a little. I use wedge type chocks so they get under the tire a little so there's no slop.

@Sean Seena, I use a hockey puck in the front and lift right behind the tube. I use the 2x4 in the back and place it right where the frame splits.