JPS coupe electrical issue

Is your JPS Subaru powered or Air-cooled? The AC cars usually have a small fuse box under the dash on the left side of the car. Or at least that is where it is located on a VS built car. IIRC The Subaru powered cars utilize the electronics from the donor car and there should be a more extensive fuse box but I don't where it would be located.

Either car could have relays in the system close to the front so you'd have to check for those and make sure they're working too.

Sorry I couldn't be or more help. Maybe one of our JPS owners will chime in soon.

If it doesn't have relays for the head light then it could be the light switch.  Without a relay the Chinese switch take the entire vurrent flow to the lights which can burn out the contacts.  A volt meter would be handy for seeing where you have voltage.

Bob - please check your PM's.

I sent you Tom Marantz's email address.  He also owns a recent JPS coupe.

Yes, there is a fuse panel and you most like have a blown fuse, but tom can certainly help find it.

Good luck.  Gordon

Thanks, guys.  All of the info is helpful and much appreciated!

His JPS coupe is a Suby.  He mentioned it in another thread.  He's the guy who also has a Beck Speedster.

I had a JPS and had to replace the headlight switch twice. Finally upgraded the switch.

 

Thanks, Dan. I spoke with John Steele at JPS today and it sounds like it is a perennial problem. I have a Speedster and a Coupe, and they both have headlight switch problems. Seems like John should invest
another ten bucks or so in a quality switch for his new builds, as it would save everybody a lot of grief. I'm going to replace both of them with OEM VW switches.
Best regards,
Bob Templeton

Bob, you're going to want to trace the headlight wiring all the way to the bulbs.  I experienced the same problems, and went through many fuses in the headlight switch.  Also, I could never get my lights to an even brightness -- one was always bright and one was either completely off or very dim.  I switched to LEDs, which were incredibly bright, but also uneven.  Turned out the wiring was reversed (!) in one of the headlight buckets.  I'm very lucky my expenses were limited to a few fuses and a few different headlight bulbs, and not (another) fire.

Good luck.

Also consider the addition of a headlight relay to make sure the lights are getting enough current without overwhelming the switch.

After all theSe years you would think relays in all new builds would be standard no?

I had my running lights hooked up last year and my guy wouldn't do the job without installing a relay. Just makes good sense.

 

Bob, this could be any one of a number of things - or a number of things all stacked up on each other.

Diagnosing electrical problems remotely is a dicey business, at best. But some more info from you would help.

Is it just the headlights that are out or other lights, too?

Do the front parking lights work? Turn signals? Instrument lights on the dash? Tail lights?

Is it the low beams, high beams, or both that don't work?

Any other electrical problems? Horn, windshield wipers, slow starter, etc?

The most common issues with headlights are bad switch and corroded ground connections. If it's 'just a fuse', it usually means more than the fuse is faulty.

Fuses don't wear out - they blow for a reason.

 

Switch failure is usually caused by too much current across the contacts. Install two relays. Simple project, cheap parts at any parts store and some heavier wire for the supply circuit. The switch circuit can stay the same light gauge stuff... Just did this myself last fall after replacing a few switches and many fuses.. Slow learner, but steady, well not so steady anymore either... getting up off the garage floor is taking longer and longer each time.... age, not good for wires or me..................