JPS Coupe For Sale

Nice...

Yowza....Ed..  Nicely sorted, well appointed and priced fairly I'd say. 

That is beautiful!  I wish I could afford another toy.

Simply SMASHING !!!

That car couldn't have been more then three years old.  Why all of the new front suspension parts?

Gordon Nichols posted:

That car couldn't have been more then three years old.  Why all of the new front suspension parts?

The true and direct answer is that the car builder although builds really beautiful cars, some sub standard parts and mechanical workmanship was done. 

Although the car was new, the front bean was a reconditioned (not resorted or rebuilt to new standards), so we redid it to exact standards.  The clutch was a new stock clutch in a 2332cc motor and was slipping, we replaced it with a 1700lb clutch.  The transmission (a pro street quality) was mounted with stock cradle mounts and we  upgraded to a HD with a strap.  Converted the fuel pump to elec with the correct pressure for the dual carb set up.  Etc, etc.... 

Basically, we addressed and corrected all the issues with the car to make it drive and perform as outstanding as it looks.  The way it should have been done from the get go.  Its a little known secret, but that is a major part of our business is making these cars the best they can be.  We have been around for more than 20 years and know how to do the job right.

That's why this car is a great deal for anyone that is interested in a Coupe, 8500 miles to show and correct any issues. 

Not the first time beauty was only skin deep. Great looking car that now has the underpinnings that match its looks. Really nice job, Alex.

CORRECTION ON THE MILEAGE:  The 8500 is in KM.  It has about 5000 miles on it. 

Well, Alex, What can I say?  Just one more in a long line of "great-looking" cars coming out of that place with really shoddy workmanship to go with it.  At least it gives you steady business, and I'm encouraged that someone is going to get a car that will live up to the new buyer's expectations because it's been made right - just like it should have been in the first place!  

Isn't it sucky that people put up (a lot of) good money for a new  and properly engineered car, only to find out that a lot of the mechanicals are either poorly engineered, already worn out or sub-standard?  And, like you guys, he's been around for well over 20 years, under several different business names, doing the same thing all that time - and STILL doing it!

Thanks for making that car really worth of that very fair asking price.  Someone's gonna love it.

Alex, I have a 2332 JPS Speedster from 2007, and if I lived in CA, I'd be over to your shop in two minutes to see what could be done.  I am especially interested in:

"new motor mounts, new heavy duty trans cradle with strap, mid mount support on trans."

and why you thought that was nec'y.  are these bolt on parts?  Maybe you have them? I am east coast, so would have to get the parts and do myself.  Tricky business??  Pls advise.

Fraz: weld-in, cheep:

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...ductCode=C26-311-204

Weld-in, better:

https://www.cbperformance.com/...asp?ProductCode=4499

Bolt-in (keep the nose cone front mount):

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...ductCode=C26-311-204

Home-made (don't try this at home) (Ask me how I know):

https://bridgetmgtd.wordpress....rans-mount-progress/

I noticed the AC pump in your first photos. how is that mounted? can you remove the header without removing the AC pump?

Frazoo:

I am about to wind up this project of changing trans mounts with an existing mid mount support and a heavy duty cradle with strap.

You have to detach the engine and remove it or at least pull it back as far as possible. You go through all the same steps you would to pull the engine. I just pulled the rear tin for room.

That includes disconnecting the shifter at the rear under the inspection plate.

At the rear I found that the trick is to remember the order that everything came off, use the rear cradle, strap and the 27mm nuts that go into the frame to get the mounts into final position for the bolts through the bracket to the mounts to go in. I put the mounts on the bell housing first and then wrestled the rest into place. 

I loosened all the connections up and supported the trans then pryed it back to get enough room to attach the front mount. That was first.

I am interested if anybody has found a better way to do this, and could enlighten me on the amount of torque that is needed on all the mounting hardware.

Alex?

PS I haven't forgotten about the exhaust system. I just have to find the time to address it with you.

BobG posted:

That includes disconnecting the shifter at the rear under the inspection plate.

 

Was it tough to get at that little screw to disconnect the shifter, Bob?  Mine has a 2" x 2" square tube running from right to left just about over the screw and I had to finally remove some steel to get the screw back in. Quite a bugger of a time in my case which is with an older IM.

I didn't experience that in my Vintage, based on a 71 bug. It looked just like the pictures in the Haynes manual. Hard to get to because of the way the fiberglass body was relieved over the area, and back a few inches from the edge of it, but do-able with some expletives and patience. I imagine your IM may have some steel support back there that my car doesn't have. 

El Frazoo posted:

Alex, I have a 2332 JPS Speedster from 2007, and if I lived in CA, I'd be over to your shop in two minutes to see what could be done.  I am especially interested in:

"new motor mounts, new heavy duty trans cradle with strap, mid mount support on trans."

and why you thought that was nec'y.  are these bolt on parts?  Maybe you have them? I am east coast, so would have to get the parts and do myself.  Tricky business??  Pls advise.

It is necessary as the stock cradle mount flexes to much and can bend the frame horns on the pan, as well as it can cause wheel hop (and that destroys transmissions), brakes the motor mounts front and back and can also break the nose cone, and finally if you know what it feels like to have it right, you can tell the motor is just moving all over the place. 

All the parts are bolt in, but you have to pull the motor.  Some people say you can do it with the motor in, but that would take twice as long and a lot of !@#$% words...  

We can sell you the kit: Cradle mount with strap, mid mount, and all the trans mounts.  $110.00 plus shipping. 

Buy it, Frazoo! Worth every penny. That's a great price as well. 

Ah, OK, I have an answer.  Figured maybe a engine pull.  Tranny pull too??  I'll do more digging, and also will inspect to see what I actually have in there.  PS: it is not a full pan car, but rather a partial with a made-up tube frame for most.  Believe all the important structural stuff at the back (horns, etc)  is from the '72 donor.

All I did was pull the engine back to replace mounts, etc. I am also replacing axle boots and some hoses and lines. If you are going exploring and you need to replace clutch, throw out bearing, flywheel, etc. you will obviously need to totally remove the engine. I

BobG posted:

All I did was pull the engine back to replace mounts, etc. I am also replacing axle boots and some hoses and lines. If you are going exploring and you need to replace clutch, throw out bearing, flywheel, etc. you will obviously need to totally remove the engine. I

Wow, I would go mad trying to change those with the motor in the car.  I always figure 30 min to pull the motor will save lots of time fishing around it for nuts and bolts. 

Also, if you want to change the rear mounts you need to pull the motor.  And it's always to have it out to do inspections on rear seal and rear trans seal.  If you have dual carbs, one might need to be taken off before you pull the motor for more wiggle room.

Plan on a few days and take your time.

Yeah, well it took a lot longer than I had planned on because with the engine just pulled back the angles to get at stuff were awkward. Also I am doing this alone, without much space. Haven't torn into one of these in more than 30 years and had forgotten a good deal. Haynes and Muir are fine but they don't cover some of the procedures when you have extra stuff stuck on. Great if you are working on a stock beetle.

This has been both therapeutic and frustrating.

I don't know anything about JPS's body: how accurate is it and how's the fit and finish?

Cole Thompson- posted:

I don't know anything about JPS's body: how accurate is it and how's the fit and finish?

It's pretty close as far as replicas.  The fit and finish is very nice.  JPS cars very nice interiors.  I posted pics above. 

We have a few interested parties in the car and if anyone is considering getting a coupe, I would not pass up the chance to come check this one out.