Hi Jerry,
I have about 8,000 miles on my Subi turbo, and I've had lots of cooling and other mechanical problems. The rad is now in its third placement, in the trunk space where the engine would go in a normal rear-engine application, with a 17" x 27" double pass crossflow, aluminum rad, fully shrouded with 2 12" high flow puller fans, each rated at 1600 cfm.
Bottom line: the bigger the HP, the more difficulty in keeping it cool. I'm pretty close to an efficiency that I've been looking for, but it's been a long and expensive process. Of course, it's more involved than just the rad. Fans, shrouds, ducting, electric water pumps, water-air intercooler, NACA ducts, a/c condenser, and the list goes on and on. If you want big HP, there doesn't seem to be any way around it. Proper ducting and shrouds are key, but their necessity was ignored by the builder, to my peril.
It's hard to find shops who have experience with Subi conversions, and hard to get shop time when you do find someone. There's not one aspect of the fix that's been easy. Most shops want nothing to do with any type of replica, especially one with a Subi turbo.
For many reading this, I'm preaching to the choir. It's not enough to pay someone, you may also have to kiss the ring, declare loyalty, sign an MOU, pledge your assets, etc. That seems to be the price we pay for being different. Not all of these guys are prima donnas, but they do exist. To give these guys some credit, it's their experience that has taught them the tricks of the trade regarding remote rads, what kind of cooling is needed, how best to achieve the goal of running cool when real estate is lacking to place a rad in the ideal, front bumper location. That hard-earned knowledge is not given away, or even shared much on public forums.
Hopefully, my car will be done in April, well before blastoff time for Carlisle. When it's "good enough" for a cross-country trip, I'll post the info and some pics on what I received when I bought the car, and how it is now.
I'm fairly confident that, when I'm done, it will be dead reliable in all weather and road conditions, and very, very quick. Braking has always been adequate, and I've upgraded the suspension. I'm guessing final engine HP will dyno in the low 300's, but the engine is currently detuned until cooling is sorted out. In some ways, it's been a positive experience, since I've learned WAY more than I imagined about water cooling, system design, and the engineering and trade-offs involved. If you keep the HP under 200 with naturally-aspirated application, cooling is much easier. If I was less bull-headed, that's what I would have done.