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Porsche 356 Speedster Replica built turnkey by JPS Motorsports:

No expense  spared with this car, JPS Motorsports loaded it up with:
- the 2332cc flat four with twin weber carbs,
- custom bright red porsche fan shroud
- sports exhaust (awesome sound)
- sports suspension
- full leather interior (rich saddle color)
- mesh guards on headlights

- driving lights
- high powered stereo with premium speakers, amp
- slideout full screen kenwood complete with Bluetooth and GPS

- beautiful two stage black

- plexi side windows and vinyl windows
You can read up on the JPS site all the options available, and you'll see it has most of them. This beauty cost >$38,000. John at JPS told me it's the best handler they've built in more than 300 speedsters.
The car is registered on a shortened, stiffened VW chassis so the annual registration costs ~$120, and insurance is cheap also. It is less than three years old and has under 10,000 miles since new. 
Reluctant sale due to a move to a golf course, I need (want) a golf cart and have no place to park the speedster. JPS builds great cars and you can pay them $38,000 for a new one or pay $28,000 for mine, with NO wait time.

New Toy 007

New Toy 003

New Toy 005

New Toy 006

Glenn

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  • New Toy 007
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Disc brakes all the way around, also tires are almost new less than 3,000. Tires were changed when the upgraded wheels were installed. This car has it all,  

Coco calico mats

LS001* - Leather Seating Area........................$900  

ST001* - AM/FM/CD Stereo  ..........................$490      

SM001* - Second Outside Rearview Mirror ............$45

CT001* - Full Canvas Tonneau Cover .................$395

SC002* - SC Suspension ................................$550 

SW001 - German Square Weave Carpet ..............$450    

LS003 - Leather Door Panels & Dash .................$1050      

BG001 - European Bumper Guards (4)................$260       

BP001 - Black Paint two Stage ........................$550

 

 

 
Built from parts tested on the rugged Baja 1000, the 2332 is part monster, part lover, easily streetable but can rev to 6500 when called upon. Gobs of low-end torque with easy, free-revving horsepower. Rated at a conservative 140 HP and 130 ft/lbs of torque, the 2332 makes its best moves between 2300 and 5500 RPMs. When mated to a specially geared Pro-Street transmission, you can have tire-burning take-offs and easy freeway cruising.
Last edited by Theron

Rusty, that may be correct for Intermeccanica, but according to JPS:

 

"We upgrade shocks, sway bars, body stiffness and chassis stiffness. It makes the car tighter and handle better but adds too much stiffness for the average person. These are rear engined and without experience driving them they can be a handful. All of the upgrades increase roll stiffness but also transmit more road and tire noise to the chassis.

 

Most manufacturers have walked this tight rope for years. BMW and Mercedes best examples.

Drive a Cadillac, nice riding, quiet and handles well but stiffen it up and you have a BMW, noisier but tighter with less roll but road and tire noise increase.

 

Most kit builders don't understand the trade off, they think because you make it stiffer it handles better and partially they are correct. On a smooth race track you get better turn in and quicker exits but in the real world the bumps in the turn loosen the car up and the tendency for over or under steer is increased. Thus softer is the quicker way around most surface streets.

John Steele

 

JPS-Motorsports.com

 

PS if you are asking specifically what we do I do not release that info."

 

In a JPS car it's still a beetle suspension.

Last edited by ALB
So what does this mean for the average SOCer?  Do you not want the JPS SC package because it makes the car feel every little bump?  Realistically, most of my driving is around town, or on the Interstate if on a trip...i.e. Carlisle! My brother in law had a really tight 911 and I hated driving it due to the suspension.  You felt every expansion joint on the interstate.  Still, I always like a good handling car.  My wife's BMW 5 series wagon is a good trade off.
 
 
Originally Posted by ALB:

Rusty, that may be correct for Intermeccanica, but according to JPS:

 

"We upgrade shocks, sway bars, body stiffness and chassis stiffness. It makes the car tighter and handle better but adds too much stiffness for the average person. These are rear engined and without experience driving them they can be a handful. All of the upgrades increase roll stiffness but also transmit more road and tire noise to the chassis.

 

Most manufacturers have walked this tight rope for years. BMW and Mercedes best examples.

Drive a Cadillac, nice riding, quiet and handles well but stiffen it up and you have a BMW, noisier but tighter with less roll but road and tire noise increase.

 

Most kit builders don't understand the trade off, they think because you make it stiffer it handles better and partially they are correct. On a smooth race track you get better turn in and quicker exits but in the real world the bumps in the turn loosen the car up and the tendency for over or under steer is increased. Thus softer is the quicker way around most surface streets.

John Steele

 

JPS-Motorsports.com

 

PS if you are asking specifically what we do I do not release that info."

 

In a JPS car it's still a beetle suspension.

 

It's very hard (impossible?) to make these cars handle very well and have supple handling at the same time.

My pan bases IM has Koni adjustable shocks, roll bar, and rear kafer bar, along with the heavy duty front and rear sway bars.  The car handles very well, but is VERY stiff riding.  It puts my track Miata to shame.

On old car it seems you can have one or the other, but not both.

Ron--I definitely have both---in spades.  I guess I was just lucky.  I have the sway bar, Kafer Bar, camber compensator, Beam braces and stock shocks.  25 rear, 23 front, Vereds, and a damned near perfect alignment.

 

Last year I drove a brand new VS that's here in Hot Springs and it drove like a truck--I'd never take it on the highway. Hard to steer, shaky steering wheel and all round awful.  I guess you can get a good one or a bad one and do feel that the improvements to the suspension are what makes mine drive like buttah.  Maybe riding in a coccoon of Dynamat makes it seem better than it is!

Jack- Does your car have front and rear sway bars (25 rear, 23 front)? I think the stock shocks you're running are a large part of why your car seems to ride so smoothly; too many people "overshock" and end up with an unnecessarily rough ride. Do you run stock VW transaxle mounts? Mounts that are too hard (or "solid" mounts) also transmit more noise and road vibration into the car.

 

I reprinted Mr. Steele's email reply (above) to my query (what constitutes an JPS "SC" suspension?) in it's entirety as his observations on the VW platform (and ride quality vs handling improvements in general) are very astute.

Dan, i see you have a red 911 too , ha?  i have an 86, live in San Clemente, wanted to pick your brain a little.  Contemplating getting a speedster again, i use to have one, loved it, regretted selling it.  I have a beautiful 911 i drive, been to the shows, want more of a cruiser, not a racer or fast car.  IF you get a chance, write back, i'll give you my email.

Glenn, Does the place you are moving to have a garage,or metal outbuilding? If so,you may want to consider a 4 post lift. You can keep the Speedster,and have plenty of room for a golf cart or any other vehicle you wish to house underneath. Just a thought. Another thought is to keep the car stored off site. I keep Ruby in a storage building about a mile from my home due to space issues. Rent is cheap,and I keep the car!!

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