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Hi everyone,

I would love some help and guidance related to my JPS Speedster which i have owned for the past 4 years. I love the car, but i've had a few issues that i've managed to work through (the car only has 2000 miles), but a recurring issue has been the gear shifter and linkage (basically the car won't go from 3rd gear to 2nd - and if i try the gear just grinds) ...I've tried tweaking the linkage - and it helps for a few miles but the problem just comes back again.

My next step is to simply buy a new shifter package and get the issue sorted once and for all.

I'd love any advice on good quality short shifters for a car like this ...any ideas?

Below is some info on the car, engine and transmission:

Custom Built 2.5 Subaru SOFC FI engine

The transmission is rebuilt as a Pro-Street with new bearings, gears, and syncros ‑ utilizing a 3:44 ring & pinion with a .82 final drive ratio. The 3:44 gearing is a better match to the torque curve of the water cooled Subaru engine. The front suspension is rebuilt with new ball joints, bearings, bushings, and a new TRW steering box. Also, an adjustable lowering mechanism is installed. At the rear we install new gas charged lowered shocks and on the front we install a set of special valved‑lowered shocks for an even ride

In terms of new shifters - has anyone ever used a shifter from the company 'VINTAGE SPEED'? the shifters look / sound good from reviews though i have no idea if it would work well with my JPS car (and engine etc):

https://store.vintagespeed.com...er-shifter-c33996772

Any thoughts or feedback is most welcome!

Thank you,

Giles

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While you're researching shift levers, you should also peel up the carpet over the central tunnel just behind the seats and remove the cover on top of the tunnel.  Under that cover is the coupler for the shift rod and the transaxle and sometimes those couplers loosen up, making the shifting erratic.  I'm guessing, but it may have a red Urethane block in the middle of the coupler which has become brittle and getting sloppy.  I might trust it if it is a black or gray plastic/rubber/urethane block, but not the el Cheapo red version that JPS probably used.

Also, each end of that coupler has a "grub screw" to tighten it onto the shift rod and tranny actuator.  Those can loosen up, too.  Just re-tighten them (they have a square head with a hole drilled through it) and then run a length of mechanic's wire through the little holes in both of them to wire them together so that they can't loosen up again.

Do that and try re-aligning the shift lever you have, to see if that fixes it.  If it doesn't, then a Vintage Speed shifter is definitely an upgrade.

I second Gordon's advice, and also: the shift rod bushing is the weak link on this system, and a failed or sloppy bushing will turn a Vintage Speed or CSP shifter seemingly into crap.

The bushing is made of nylon and costs about $3. It will tear and fail after a fashion, especially if it's not greased enough. I've replaced the one in my TD replica two or three times over 13 years.

Replacing the bushing is kind of a pain. It's greasy and fiddly. There is an aftermarket bronze bushing available that some here have used. Supposed to make it right forever after. Looks like someone is also making a Delrin version.

But be advised: if yours is shot, nothing else you can do will make the shifter work right until you fix it.

A strong vote from us on Vintage Speed, it's been our standard shifter for quite some time.  Great product.

As for your shifting woes, we've serviced and repaired a lot of speedster reps that used an adjustable rod end between the shift rod and the shift coupler.  In these cases, the adjustable end jam nut came loose so it would rotate instead of the coupler, so fore and aft motion wasn't effected but rotation would just spin the shift rod on the threads, so the gears you were selecting would just be whatever ones the coupler happened to be pointing at.  Sometimes 1-2, sometimes 3-4, sometimes nothing-reverse.  No idea if this is your issue, but something to look for.

This is the type of end that we found to be the issue: https://www.jbugs.com/product/...4giwcWhoCOaEQAvD_BwE

There's snap-in version of the Delrin bushing that's a bunch easier to install than either of the EV4U versions. Once you see it you'll wonder why it took so long for someone to think of it.

Here's a link to one from Airkewld

And a delrin bushing and billet coupler from King Performance This set with a Vintage Speed shifter with the Porsche bushing end on it and I don't think you could make it any better.

As mentioned above, if the receiver socket in the shift rod is worn out none of this will help. Once your sure all of that is in good shape search on this site or The Samba for instructions for aligning the shifter. You should be good then. If there are still problems downshifting into 2nd, then it may be a transmission or clutch issue.

To all who wrote that the EV4U bushing is brass. It is NOT. It was, but is now made from Delrin nylon. It is guaranteed for as long as you, the original purchaser, has the vehicle it is installed in.

I made an installation tool out of some PVC pipe and a fitting or two.

It is no harder to install(maybe a little?) than the cheasy VW bushing that fails ALL the time. I put one in a VW Thing last spring. I though it shifted great, and it did, but I think the customer wanted a better shifter. He never ponied up for the Vintage Speed. Either way, a Thing isn't a "sports car" and never will be. Even if it has a Raby 2270 type4 in it(and it did).

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