I know there's an extensive pre-delivery checklist to go over that someone created and will chime in with shortly.

Tell us more about your build 

 We went with the Champaign yellow exterior with a buck leather interior. Top, carpet and full tonneau cover in tan. The engine is the 1915cc with the upgraded trans. I had to have a stereo, though I've read from other owners that you can't hear it very well - just could imagine not having a stereo in any of our cars.

 No air, as we have 3 other cars with air, so we can pick our weather for top down driving. I did get the oil cooler option though, thinking it will help the engine run cooler and it allows for installing air should we ever feel the need. (I honestly don't see that happening though).

 We wanted the banjo wheel, so Mary recommended getting the race seats due to the banjo wheels larger diameter. (we originally have the padded seats picked out). The race seats don't look near as comfortable, but we didn't want to give up the banjo wheel. Hopefully we don't regret this.

 Mary and Kirk were very patient with us as we flip flopped around on our wants. Hopefully the car will be perfect when finished, but if not, we're hoping they are easy to work with in making things right.

Have Kirk go over it and put 100 miles on it to sort it out.

 If he's willing, that would be great. I will bounce that off of him.

Kirk and Mary are awesome, but my experience is that at most the car will have 20-30 miles when you pick it up.

do have a 3rd party do a pre delivery inspection... If you are not able to fly out yourself.. Best to have someone ( if not you) put some serious miles on the car before it gets shipped out to your home state.  Its always worth while, and nice having Kirk near by to sort out any issues.  His team is great.

I had mine insured before  pick-up and my AAA card upgraded with the plus +100 mile towing pkg.  Flew down to CA 3 times- perfect excuse for weekends with spouse/friends over a 5 week period, put + 600 miles... Had a blast + Identified issues which Kirk happily addressed before I had the car shipped to Seattle.

car was finished July 15th ( on my birthday).. but it didn't get delivered to SEA until Sept 9th... By the time the car made it home, it was mostly sorted. Then the fun/madness begun!

enjoy the process!

 Thanks for the reply fellas. Any recommendations for a third party to go over the finished build? I will talk to Kirk about going over it and driving it to see if any sorting  needs to be done. He sounds like a busy guy though, so I'd like a back up plan.

 A sick family member is going to make us going out to California to go over the car almost impossible. If we aren't able to find anyone and, as a worst case scenario, we take delivery of the car without inspecting it, is Kirk pretty good about having problems sorted out at our home base as part of the one year warranty. VS is over 2000 miles away from us.

slowshoes posted:

 We went with the Champaign yellow exterior with a buck leather interior. Top, carpet and full tonneau cover in tan. The engine is the 1915cc with the upgraded trans. I had to have a stereo, though I've read from other owners that you can't hear it very well - just could imagine not having a stereo in any of our cars.

 No air, as we have 3 other cars with air, so we can pick our weather for top down driving. I did get the oil cooler option though, thinking it will help the engine run cooler and it allows for installing air should we ever feel the need. (I honestly don't see that happening though).

 We wanted the banjo wheel, so Mary recommended getting the race seats due to the banjo wheels larger diameter. (we originally have the padded seats picked out). The race seats don't look near as comfortable, but we didn't want to give up the banjo wheel. Hopefully we don't regret this.

 Mary and Kirk were very patient with us as we flip flopped around on our wants. Hopefully the car will be perfect when finished, but if not, we're hoping they are easy to work with in making things right.

Don't worry about flip flopping. You have to live with it so get it the way you want. Believe me, they've been through it before.

Several have experienced what I consider severe issues within days of taking delivery in CA - like severe oil barfing.  There have also been steering and suspension issues discovered after delivery.  Shame they don't institute a QA checklist and attach it to sales receipt --- or offer at least an add-on cost thorough inspection. You don't have location posted but there is a VS reseller in ATL GA that sorts them out before selling them.  They might check it out and have pull with VS in getting it locally fixed.  3 day trip out to inspect and drive it would be time/money well spent.  Very difficult to get them to fix it when it is 2000 miles away.

Slowshoes, I recommend talking to MusbJim (El Guapo) here. He's fairly near Kirk and knows these cars well (he's owned two that I know of). He knows what to look for and might even agree to drive your car for a few weeks to see what, if anything, needs sorting.

Will Hesch posted:

Slowshoes, I recommend talking to MusbJim (El Guapo) here. He's fairly near Kirk and knows these cars well (he's owned two that I know of). He knows what to look for and might even agree to drive your car for a few weeks to see what, if anything, needs sorting.

  Thanks for that - we are looking at our grandsons immunotherapy schedule, and we might be able to swing a short 3 day visit in the second or third week of May. We'll have to see how the timeline works out for the build, as well as checking my daughter and son in laws schedules.

I'm also local and have worked with Kirk a LOT on my build. I'd be happy to help where/when I can

*LongFella posted:

I'm also local and have worked with Kirk a LOT on my build. I'd be happy to help where/when I can

 Many thanks LongFella - how can I get in touch with you? My build hasn't even started yet, but maybe you could give me some advice, as I've never done anything like this before. We hope we'll be able to get out there and sort out any issues, but our grandson has to come first, of course.

The Speedster" seats, or as you called them "race" seats are very comfortable. Many on here prefer them to the comfort seats.

Robert M posted:

The Speedster" seats, or as you called them "race" seats are very comfortable. Many on here prefer them to the comfort seats.

 Yes, I've been told that the comfort seats keep you in a more upright driving position, where the race seats give a bit more room between you and the wheel and your not as upright. With the driving position I like while driving, those are both pluses. Still, that cushioning looks a bit thin!

I don't have a VS, but have worked w/ Kirk and Mary a little over parts and add ons for my car.  They were very reasonable at long distance trade -- I live in MD. The buzz I hear on this site from VS owners is that the VS operation is pretty straight up, and they will work with you to be sure stuff is right.  That said, they run a tight ship there and produce a lot of cars, and do it quickly.  And we are talking about hand made cars here, so anything is possible.  If LONGFELLA can be on-site, that would be really cool.  Other SoCali types here may have a chance to help.  Welcome to the soon-to-be madness. And don't forget the pictures when you get them.  We love us some car pictures, the more the better.

Slowshoes, the best advice I can give you is that you listen carefully to the members who respond to your inquiry.

I purchased a VS two years ago and thought I knew as much (or more) than the members here. I didn't and could've saved some grief by listening more carefully to their (sage) advice.

Will

 I'll definitely post pictures when my build is done - I can't tell you how excited we are to have a VS. Will - I can tell you I'm not going into this pretending to be any kind of expert. My wife and I have never done anything like this before. Our car buying has always been through traditional dealerships, and at 58, it will be my first convertible. Family needs, and life in general, just always got in the way.

  You guys have already been very welcoming to someone who has just registered on the site, and it's greatly appreciated. (I've been lurking for some time though). 

SLOWSHOES:  maybe pretty soon you will be FASTSHOES -?-  Going into a Speedster cold, as it sounds like you are doing, will be a learning experience. 1950's style engineering and air cooled is not anything like what you will encounter in today's "traditional dealership".   If you are not mechanically inclined, you are going to want to locate someone nearby who understands VWs or maybe even old Porches to help you while you learn.  These folks exist, but are getting harder to find. And of course as you have discovered, the "gang" of SOCers is here to help.

 Yes - we have foreign cars repair shops nearby, some of which specialize in air cooled VW's, so they should be able to help with any mechanical issues. I'm in the Detroit area, so there is no lack of things automotive.  I'm just trying to find out how to make sure those mechanical or other issues (if there are any)  are taken care of before the car is even loaded on the truck for the trip home.

  I'm looking forward to putting my heart and soul into a car that is worthy of it. I always done what maintenance I'm capable of on all my cars (boats too), but if I'm in over my head, I never pretend that I'm not, and seek out the help I need. It'll be a learning curve for sure, but one I'm looking forward to.  

Between Youtube and the advice here you'll have no problem learning how to do things and you'll have the most success if you learn to do the basic maintenance stuff (oil changes, valve adjustment, changing spark plugs, carburetor adjustments...). If you don't have them now, you'll start buying tools. When you get to the point that you feel you know your car pretty well you kind of bond with it. You'll start to recognize the sounds it makes when it's healthy, and you'll recognize as the sounds change when something needs attention. 

What are you putting on it for wheels? Will it be wide 5 (the new aluminum wheels are really cool, and tres light!), later VW 4x130mm with regular slotted steel wheels and baby moons, or 5x130 and Porsche 911 alloys? Discs on the front and drums out back, or discs all around? Since you're building from scratch, pay the extra and do the discs all around. Are you going to drop the side trim and go for more of a GT or Outlaw look? My apologies for all the questions, but I just really want to know what this thing's gonna look like... Al

PS- gotta first name, or are we really going to call you Slowshoes for eternity?

 Sorry for not introducing myself - my name is Bill. I want the regular slotted wheels with the baby moons. I planned on going with the disc's out front, thinking it would be enough for such a small, light car. I didn't even inquire about disc's all around. Is that what most here do on their builds? Any idea how much this adds on to the cost?

 I'm not going for the outlaw look ( not that those cars aren't beautiful as well), but it's just not what I'm after. I haven't done valve or carb adjustments before, but this is something I definitely want to learn to do myself. Any tools specific to the those jobs you would recommend?

 Chronic wrist pain and a tremor in my dominant hand and wrist will keep me from doing anything that requires a lot of careful fine motor control, so I don't know if that means either of those jobs are out for me or not. It has chased me away from a lifelong love of sailing, and has forced me to decide to sell our sailboat that has been in the family for 30 plus years. As soon as we are done helping out with our grandson, she will be sold. I got to where I could bleed air out of a cantankerous old Volvo Penta diesel with the speed and precision of an Indy pit crew!

 Luckily, I love cars too, so I'll still have plenty to keep me busy!

"I haven't done valve or carb adjustments before, but this is something I definitely want to learn to do myself. Any tools specific to the those jobs you would recommend?"

Not much, really.    For valve adjustments, a 1/4" flat-blade screw driver and a 13mm box wrench is all you need, along with a flat feeler gauge strip for the gap.  If you have chrom-moly (steel) engine push rods you can delete the feeler strip.  

"Chronic wrist pain and a tremor in my dominant hand and wrist will keep me from doing anything that requires a lot of careful fine motor control, so I don't know if that means either of those jobs are out for me or not. It has chased me away from a lifelong love of sailing, and has forced me to decide to sell our sailboat that has been in the family for 30 plus years."

Don't know - you'll have to try it and see what you can do - I have a bunch of ailments that I tend to either cuss at or ignore but just keep on truckin' in spite of them.  Do what'cha can, that's all.

Sorry about the boat.  There are a few sailors on here.  I had my boat on Narragansett Bay (Rhode Island - where everyone has at least one boat) and eventually downsized from a 39' O'Day to an 18' BeetleCat to nothing.  Handling the lines aggravated a wrist condition and my crew (both kids) mutinied on me and went off to have their own lives.  Ya can't trust Pirates for nuthin.  Lots of fishermen in Rhode Island - they fish for all sorts of things:

Being in the Detroit area you should connect with Tom Blankinship.

Hey @Tom Blankinship!

Good reading before you get the car is 

Disks on the rear are nice if you can afford it, but unless you we be doing some hard driving with lots of on and off braking, they aren't necessary.   These cars don't have ABS, so in a hard braking situation, you're going to lock up the wheels.  Once the wheels are locked, it doesn't matter if you have disk's or drums.  If you can afford them, get them, otherwise put the money toward some other option. 

 Thanks for all the replies fellas - I'll check with Kirk and see what disc's all around will set me back. I'll have to get the book for the complete idiot as that title is calling to me.

 Lane - is Tom an owner of a Speedster or does he have a business that can repair them?

Gordon - I here you about having more than one boat. I have a Brewer designed Union 32, a Compac 16 and a Compac 19. The 32 has been a labor of love since 1987 and provided me and my family with some wonderful memories. Unfortunately, neither of my girls turned out to be sailors as adults - sigh. I'll be a mess the day she sells.

Tom will infect you with the MADNESS for sure.  He sends his Beck off to them for winter storage and Madness mods!  He will be a costly influence. Shame you didn't mention before putting order in - Beck is right nearby and makes an excellent Speedster with a custom tube frame and noticeably more interior room.  Maintenance would not be issue with Beck.  I recall Beck (Cary Hines) towing Tom's Speedster back home to Bremen, IL from Carlisle PA when Tom had some transaxle issues a few years ago. 

@Tom Blankinship

Thanks Lane.  I missed this thread.  I'm in Dearborn.  I'm hopping the train tomorrow to Niles, MI where Carey from Special Edition will pick me up in my Speedster, Natalie, & I'll drive home.  It's my favorite time of the year.

Locally, Bill Demeter (buckwheat) is the go to 356/VW/Speedster guy in Detroit.  He owns a Vintage and lives in GP.

He can go over and handle most, if not all, sorting issues that will come up.

I WOULD have steered you to a Beck and I AM a very bad influence, just ask Joe Fortino :-).

I would love to get together.  Send me a PM and we can share details.

There's a few of us around.  Michael McKelvey from A2 is active on this board, as well.

Bill, I ordered four-wheel disc brakes when Kirk built my car three years ago.

I'd advise getting front discs, but sticking with rear drums. The rear disc kit VS was using at the time caused me some grief, and the performance advantage over rear drums is probably negligible.

There are better after market discs that you can install later if you think you really need to. If you'd like more details, send me a PM (private message) here. (And if you haven't learned how to do that yet, we can help there, too!)

Welcome to what we call 'the madness'. You'll soon be learning why.

Oops!  Forgot about Mike McKelvey.  Sorry Mike! 

I've never met Bill or I could have forgotten him too. 

Thanks For the reply Tom - especially the Detroit area contact for getting issues sorted out ( I hope I don't need him!). I just couldn't afford a Beck, and the VS still look great to my eye. Hopefully things will go well.

 Mitch - I was thinking I'd give the rear drums a go and see if I feel they're up to the job, as you suggest. Alb and Troy's suggestions on having it done while the car is being built are points well taken though, so I shot Kirk an email to at least see what it would cost.

slowshoes posted:

 Sorry for not introducing myself - my name is Bill...

..,As soon as we are done helping out with our grandson, she will be sold...

 Luckily, I love cars too, so I'll still have plenty to keep me busy!

Hi Bill, my name is Al.

You can do that? Can you do that with kids too? I seem to be stuck with mine, and so far they haven't been a very good investment (or even helpful around the house)... 

Oh; you meant the boat . Pardon me...

On a (slightly) more serious note- Although other's people's comments about you not needing rear discs unless you're hot-shoin' around a lot is true, the first time you hit the brakes in a vigorous stop, the rear drums are already half heat-soaked and part way through decelleration you find the backs aren't helping any more will be quite the experience. If all the damage you've done is dirtied the seat you'll have got off easy. These cars kind of lend themselves to being a little more, uhhh... sporty, and if you start carving the corners somewhere it's nice to know you've got that extra bit of "cushion" before finding out first hand your brake system's limitations. They other nice thing about rear discs- never having to adjust the rear brakes (something that has to be done every couple or few thousand miles with stock VW drums). For that reason alone, they're worth it, and if you should ever decide to sell it they're a positive feature. Al

Listen to Al.  For me, despite any and all nuances about disks vs drums, it is a no-brainer.  Disks all around.  Better performance, less maintenance.  As to VS using inferior goods, I have no input to offer here. Speak to Kirk about that.  As to costs, I'd imagine the diff to be trivial vs total outlay. In for a penny, in for a pound.  Disks are just better technology, IMHO.

 Thanks Al - lol regarding the kids comment. Your absolutely sure those are your kids at your house and not mine?! I have an email out to Kirk and asked him to throw in his 2 cents on this, as well as the cost for discs on the rear. It cost $450 for the fronts - any reason the price for the rears would be much different?

Mitch - did you ultimately get your issues with rears sorted out, or did you have to replace them?

I don't know, Bill; the wife says all 3 are mine...

Re the rear discs- you're probably right in guessing they'll be something like that as well.

Bill,

You might consider having Kirk slap on a front anti-sway bar and rear camber compensator whiles he's building.  A lot of safety/performance bang for very little bucks.

Uh, don't get me wrong. Disc brakes are one of the best inventions of western civilization - which is why I ordered them in the first place.

It's just that the particular rear kit on my car had some issues.

Here's a thread I started about it at the time.

There were two issues - a loud, moaning noise that was scaring young children in the next county, and a mounting problem that had the brakes hitting the car's frame as the suspension rode up and down - on both sides.

The mounting issue was solved by cutting away the frame in appropriate places and welding on reinforcing pieces to compensate.

The noise was eventually calmed by sourcing other brake pads, but now I have to sand them down to fit whenever they need replacing.

If I were within a short drive of VS, I imagine Kirk would have gotten this sorted out. As it was, I had to come up with my own fixes. All things considered, going with rear drums would have been easier.

Kirk tries to find the cheapest solution to any engineering problem as his success lies in providing nice cars at a price. Sometimes though, the solutions are a little too cheap.

It could be that his rear discs are now from a different source. Has anyone here ordered rear discs on a new VS lately? Mine was built in July, 2013. The kit was EMPI.

The front discs, by the way, have worked fine, with no issues at all.

   Mitch, Kudos to you for getting it sorted out. Was Kirk any help at all or were you pretty much left on your own. Seems like with the car under warranty, help would have been offered in some way.

    Al has some great points about discs being safer, not having to worry about having to adjust the drum brakes, and disc's helping with resale value. Kirk hasn't responded to my email yet, so I guess I'm still unsure of the best way to go. Disc's seem the way to go, but not if they cause a host of other problems.

 Tom - thanks for the suspension options to consider. I'll be honest, I had to google what the rear camber compensator does. Are there any fitment issues with the sway bar or camber compensator?

Slowshoes, the front swaybar will (most likely) hit the bumper mounts. Members here have modified the bumper mounts to make clearance for the swaybar and some (me included, briefly) have mounted the swaybars upside-down to provide clearance from the bumper mounts. The problem with that "fix" is that the bar ends up only a couple inches from the road. I've had folks pointing under my car as I drive, apparently concerned by the "thing" hanging under my car. I since removed it altogether.