Just put my order in for a pair of these

http://www.culayer.com/356-12.htm

Just put my order in for a pair of these. I figure every little bit more visibility I can get driving here in Mass is worth it.

I will let you all know in December how they look(12 volt units are currently just going into the manufacturing stage 6 -8 weeks out). There is a slight concern about how they may fit the various after market lamp housings as they may all not be exactly the same.

While there is a discount for pre ordering ($20 off) in speaking with the manufacture there is also an additional discount for multi unit order should a group of people want to pool resources. Maybe wait and see how they work for me first.

I looked at these before.

One concern I had is that our tail lights have a dual filament socket for the turn signal and brake lights and a single filament socket for the tail light (running light).

These LED units are designed for two single filament sockets.

I don't know how hard it would be replace a dual filament socket with a single filament one. If this was done, I don't know how the wiring would work for the turn signals.

Did you discuss any of this with the seller?

If you look on the international link it explains the difference for a two or three wire system.

I have installed these in my 6 volt 1962 B Coupe. They are exactly as described and just popped into place with no wiring. They work flawlessly and are really bright. I highly recommend them. I have a set ordered for my Speedster. These are GOOD!!


Happy Trails,
Dusty

The information under the International link seems to confirm that these are not compatible with our 3-wire systems.

It says if you have a 3-wire system you should return the LED things and they will issue you a refund.

Is there any practical way to convert our cars to a 2-wire system?

don't convert the car - convert the bulb

It's just another resistor (see second link for photos / specs)

http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_led_bulbs.htm

http://www.sca40.com/led/

I've heard decidedly mixed reviews about the bulb-replacement LEDs. Quite a few folks say that they are only visible from a narrow angle, and don't really work that well. I like the idea of switching to them, but I'd like to hear some more positive feedback first.

there are a whole bunch or types. do a search on them and DO NOT buy the replacement ones off of ebay. i bought that style a few years abck and they were very dim.

When my project list gets a bit shorter - i plan to make my own taillights from wide-angle high output LED's like the bike link above. pretty easy to do if you have a soldering gun.

Paul,

The LED units that started this discussion are made to plug into the tail light sockets and are intended to go into two single filament sockets and have contacts appropriate for that. I don't think it would be as simple as adding a resistor.

Guys, I don't have a set of these for my 12v Speedster yet but I can tell you they are WONDERFUL on my 6v B Coupe! Get the originals and try them. I also have found that the fellow who sells them is very helpful and open to calls for help.

I contacted the seller and he said that if the tail light is the Taiwan version instead of the original German version, it won't fit. I believe Dusty did not have any problem because he has the real coupe that has the German lights.

hardly anything is "bolt on" with these cars. :)

Michael - the wiring is as simple as it gets. to rewire to 3wire is a Piece of cake

Maybe after Peter and Dusty get theirs they can tell us exactly what they had to do to make them work.

I thought it might work to swap the dual contact socket for a single contact socket. Then connect both the brake light and turn signal wires the single contact with a diode in each wire to prevent one affecting the other.

For what it is worth, I'm working on a similar concept to these for UK speedster owners who have dual filament inner bulbs for stop and tail and single filament outer bulbs for indicators, due to the reasons listed above.

I'm using 24 leds for stop/tail and 24 leds for indicators - aiming to fill the lense with as greater area of light as possible compared to the point source of conventional bulbs.

The 24 stop/tail leds are on two seperate circuits (which are themselves set to two different brightnesses) to emulate a dual filiment 20W/5W bulb.

I just ordered the first batch of (16) prototype pcbs yesterday with the aim of building up and testing a few sets with friends over the winter before potentially making them available as kits next year - primary aim here is to improve safety.

Simon

I'd love to see a photo of the working prototype. You might find a market in the states, Simon.

This guy is 10 minutes from my house. Does he have a shop? I can go over and see if he can install a working pair on my 2007-VS.



Marty G.

Hi Simon

I would definately be up for a pair of these, let me know when they are in production. regards
Steve

Simon,

On my CMC the dual filament Stop/Tail bulb is at the outer, wider, end and the single filament Indicator bulb is at the inner, more pointed end.

Is the arrangement typically different in the UK or did you reverse the positions?

Both the CMC and your arrangement group the Stop/Tail functions and keep the Turn function by itself.

The CULayer system groups Stop/Turn and keeps Tail separate.

In Europe because of the amber outer lense we typically have to swap the single and dual filament holders over when we build cars.

So we run with a single outer filament for indicator, and a dual inner filament for stop & tail.

It would be trivial for me to update the board with a build option to swap this over for USA use (matter of adding a location for a diode).

This is an over the winter project for me - especially with a new 3 week old baby boy in tow - but I'll keep everyone posted with my progress.

Simon

Simon,

Thank you for clarifying this.

I was very happy to see your post about this project. We will try to not be too inpatient.

I recently got another baby boy grandson, so I have some sense of your joy in having your new son.

Found a simple solution to making 356 tail lights brighter. Go to www.sperbrightleds.com. This company offers 1156 pcb red lights and 1157 red lights (bulb replacements)for $9.95 each. Each panel contain 36 leds. The panels wil fit inside the tail light housing. To hold leds in place I used small amount of clear silicone. Try them you'll like the brightness and cost.
Bob Miller

Bob,

The problem IMO with most led replacement bulbs is that they illuminate upwards rather than backwards when fitted into the speedster rear lights. You can get some that illuminate at the more useful 90 degrees but them you need the bulb holder to be oriented exactly right. Anyway....

All,

I'm continuing with my plans and got the prototype batch of boards back today. Good news is that they fit within the rear light unit :)

Next step is to half build one out (just the LEDs) and experiment to find the appropriate current to get a sensible tail light brightness as compared with the brake light. From that i'll be able to work out the final few component values to build up the other half (power supply circuit) and try one in anger.

Hoping to do that in the next few weeks.

Simon

Simon - That is a VERY cool project! I would definitely be interested with your progress. As a side note - would it be difficult to configure this LED light board to the european type lens (amber/red combination)?

I'm impressed by your ingenuity!

Jim,

It is configured for European Amber/red lense. Indicator on amber (larger lense). stop/tail on red (smaller lense).

I believe from this thread some US cars use stop/tail on larger lense and indicator on smaller. With a slight change I could support this also.

Simon

Simon - either way, its a very cool product!!

Simon,

What determined the pattern of the LEDs on the large end?

Finally i've made some progress with my project.

I've built up the first unit and proven it works both on the bench for voltages I'd expect to see in the car; I've also briefly tried it in the car.

Now I just need to find a suitable electronic flasher that will operate at the correct speed with the reduced load these lights present.

Simon