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Why am I not surprised you have two of everything? I did buy two engines from you

Nothing special about the trans. Standard VW gearing with a 3.88 RP. Same in my Speedster. It’s sufficient for how I drive and where I drive.

Unfortunately, Greg has been sick the past three days (he sounds like poop on the phone) so I couldn’t get the rest of the parts to complete the rolling chassis. And I need to get him the deposit for the body!

Man. I wish I lived closer. I'd be there in a minute to lend a hand.l. I could have saved you some scratch on that trans. I think Anthony is going to take this one off my hands for me. 

I just dont have the room to store stuff now that I have the A in the garage.

What else do you need to make it a roller?

Only thing left are the rims, tires, and drum skins (no baby moons). The rims will be Vintage 190 powdered coated gloss black with 185 tires (same size as the Speedster).

There are little things I still need to get ready prior to the body being mounted, but I'm looking at several weeks before Greg and his Team complete my body and get everything lined up perfectly. I am amazed how perfect they get the panels lined up... it is a work of art and to see it happen is pretty cool...

TRP posted:

Hey Brian, Please shoot me a PM.  I'm struggling with my Sway-a-way spring plates. I'm trying to use the stock bushings and the stock end plates. Could use a few pointers.  If I had stuck with the stock spring plates, I'd be done by now.

 

You have IRS, right?

The trick for me (swing axle) is: using four longer bolts to attach the spring plate cover. The adjustable spring plate uses different bushings that make it easier to get everything together. The OEM ones are better, but make it a challenge to squeeze everything in place. The longer bolts help with the squeezing together part once everything is lined up. I also have the VW tool that allows you to pull the spring plate up after the starting degree is set.

Hope that helps!

TRP posted:

Hey Brian, Please shoot me a PM.  I'm struggling with my Sway-a-way spring plates. I'm trying to use the stock bushings and the stock end plates. Could use a few pointers.  If I had stuck with the stock spring plates, I'd be done by now.

This is pretty funny Ted. After I read this I was typing a message to Brian to get in touch with you about getting the plates back on but I was on my phone and could only see the stock plate so I erased my message. I didn't think it would apply because it looked like he was putting the stock plates on and not the Sway-Away.

@TRP  

If you want to use the stock black rubber bushings (which I would recommend bc the red poly are too stiff), you can open up the bore to the correct size for the adjustable spring plates.  I think it is a 2" bore, but check to make sure, my memory sucks at times.  To do this, I made a fixture on my drill press and used a hole saw.  I do not have pictures, but I will try to explain.

Clamp a piece of plywood to the drill press table.  Now take a second piece of plywood ( a little larger than a bushing, maybe 8" square) and use drywall screws to attach to the plywood clamped to table.  This piece should be roughly centered under the spindle.  Using the appropriate diameter hole saw ( I think 2") drill a hole in the top piece of plywood.  Now remove the top piece of plywood.  Place your bushing on the remaining piece of plywood and place the drilled piece of plywood on top of the bushing.  Using the hole saw in the spindle, center the plywood and bushing.  Using long drywall screws, screw the top plywood down, clamping the rubber bushing tightly.  Now use the hole saw to drill down through the bushing.

This will open the bore in the rubber bushing and help with the assembly and function of the bushing.  You may still have to use longer bolts to get the cover started on the spring plate ends.  However, this gives the correct fit between the bushing and the spring plate, and will allow the proper motion of the rubber without the bushing being too crushed into the housing.  Hope this makes sense!

James

Note: You can probably do this just as well on a workbench using a hand drill.

Last edited by James

I just watched a couple of Youtube videos by Milo Manx about changing ride height with the existing stock spring plates. The long video is about 30 minutes and the short one is about 20 minutes.

I have considered doing this but I've been a little leery of the spring plate flying off and taking part of me with it. He made the video on a Meyers Manx which appears to be about 30% lighter than a beetle, and claims there is an equivalent reduction in the tension on the plate as a result, making it less likely that the thing will fly off and decapitate me or one of our three dogs.

He makes it look pretty straightforward, changing from a protractor in the first video to a Johnson electronic angle indicator in the second to set the plate at the right angle after resetting the torsion bar. There is a chart in an old thread somewhere on this forum that relates the spline adjustments to the resulting height .

My car sits slightly higher on the passenger side than the drivers side which he says is correct to adjust for the difference in the crown of most rodes. Makes some sense.

I could probably get the height adjustment I want by simply swapping out my Veredesteins for a lower profile tire, but I kind of like the tires I have.

What are the pro's and cons of using the existing spring plates, getting new adjustable ones, or just swapping out tires?

 

Last edited by Panhandle Bob

the adjustable plates allow you to dial in the ride heights at each rear corner. raising or lowering the rear also slightly effects the front. RR effects the LF and LR effects  the RF. If you scale the car you can ready see it.

as for adjustable spring plates, buy the sway away brand !!!!!!!!!!!!!!  you can get the others for half the price but I found the adjusting blocks to be welded in different locations and the bushings fit one plate and not the other. The money you think you save buying the cheaper part is spent making it work!

Anthony posted:
*LongFella posted:

Trans is mounted. Didn’t have a lot of time today, but it was nice to see a little progress...

9E52AE38-9F48-4E5B-9018-BC4CFF37BECDD685C7D4-8926-41EC-AB56-12ADA7770F0D32968A09-3284-46A2-8619-2752F4680DB3

Looks great, If those shocks are KYB gas units you will not like the ride. put bilstein's or koni's on the chassis. you will appreciate the difference.

They are basic EMPI brand shocks. Oil in the front and gas in the rear. I have the same set-up on my Speedster and it is sufficient for my application/use of the car.

Anthony posted:
TRP posted:

IRS is for quitters and namby pambys. I swing, baby...

Which bushings did you use? My SwayAWays from CB didnt come with bushings. Grrr... 

Been fighting them for days.

you should be able to use the stock bushings. you can lube them all you want ........dry them and use baby powder.

Should you use silicone grease rather than a petroleum based product to lube them?

Bob asked on 1/22: "Should you use silicone grease rather than a petroleum based product to lube them?"

I'm assuming you're asking about urethane bushings.  The Urethane guys (Prothane) recommend a "special" urethane grease that looks and feels like dielectric grease to me.  I used it liberally on the inside of mine when I installed them (we're talking front beam, here) and they've been quiet since (10 years?).  

http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/9.11110

On the rear torsion bar bushings, it seems like everyone except Mango Smoothie and me recommend talcum powder, while he and I use CV joint grease.  Whatever you prefer. 

IaM-Ray posted:

Gordon is this on the right topic?

Panhandle Bob posted:
Anthony posted:
TRP posted:

IRS is for quitters and namby pambys. I swing, baby...

Which bushings did you use? My SwayAWays from CB didnt come with bushings. Grrr... 

Been fighting them for days.

you should be able to use the stock bushings. you can lube them all you want ........dry them and use baby powder.

Should you use silicone grease rather than a petroleum based product to lube them?

@IaM-Ray

It was a late response to an earlier question.

Got  chance to stop by the new shop and get some parts ordered. Greg is humming along and he is BUSY!

My coupe body should be done by the end of this month. Exciting!

The rolling chassis is complete. Once the body is done, everything will be mounted and the rest is just having he time to finish it like my Speedster...

Engine will be a basic 2110cc. Nothing fancy and smilier to my Speedster engine.

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