This hinges look sharp!
crhemi (Bill) posted:This hinges look sharp!
Thanks! Greg and Team at Vintage Motorcars/Spyder creation. Adds a nice touch the the front hood and rear deck lid 
Arrived, mounted, balanced, and waiting for me to stop by and take them home. B-E-A-UTIFEL!!!
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Those look a LOT different than the Technomagnesio's. They appear to have a more suitable offset. I'd love to see a set next to my wheels just to check out the differences.
Nice looking wheels!
Ted
TRP posted:Those look a LOT different than the Technomagnesio's. They appear to have a more suitable offset. I'd love to see a set next to my wheels just to check out the differences.
Nice looking wheels!
Ted
Once I get Eleanor up and running, I wouldn't mind a cruise north along the coast to meet up
Picked these bad boys up! They are definitely lighter then the chrome 5-wide. Almost a 10lbs difference. I don't have exact weights of just the tires, but the ones I'm using on the new rims are likely heavier...
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Went to Kirks a really productive day on the build. Thanks to the gUSA working hard in the back, they got a LOT done for me. They got a nice 18 pk of beer as a thank you!
One of the things I really didn't want to tackle and left for the experts were the windshield, dash pad, eyebrow pad thingy, and the bumpers. I'm amazed how quick and accurate the guys are when doing this and it was really cool to see the process!
I also picked up and paid off the rest of my kit from Kirk. Only thing that wasn't complete were the seats, convertible top, and 1/4 tonneau cover. I'll get those on Monday or Tuedsay. The German square weave was worth the extra mones. It's gorgeous. That wiring harness... looks like a PITA!
And don't those new Vintage Motorcars silver 5-wide times look amazing!!!
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If you are doing the wiring harness yourself, it's not as difficult as it looks ....I have done quite a few VS harness installs and can walk you through any questions w/ wiring, top installation or any of the rest you are doing yourself.
DANG! Your car looks awesome with those wheels. 
Wow! That is looking great!
Just curious, you are not going to ever have a full tonneau? If you think you may ever want a full tonneau, now is the time to install snaps in the dash before going much further.
X2, car looks awesome. To piggy back what James mentioned...
- consider the Tenax fastners... You won't need as many as if you use snaps, and look awesome/ more OEm.
http://www.eagleday.com/tenaxfasteners1.html
- also, the new WHEEL looks AWESOME. I notice you still have the short studs on. Will you put on 45mm ( in lie ow of the 38s). If you are looking for black studs, Alex @ Vintage M. can get them for you in 48.5mm lenth in the M12 x 1.5 to fit the AC industry kit you have installed.
Congrats... Love the approach you are taking to build your car.
cheers,
Luis
Alan Merklin posted:If you are doing the wiring harness yourself, it's not as difficult as it looks ....I have done quite a few VS harness installs and can walk you through any questions w/ wiring, top installation or any of the rest you are doing yourself.
I will definitely be taking you up on that offer!
James posted:Wow! That is looking great!
Just curious, you are not going to ever have a full tonneau? If you think you may ever want a full tonneau, now is the time to install snaps in the dash before going much further.
I've put a lot of thought into a full tonneau cover. I even talked to the guys at the shop about installing the snaps/tenax fasteners this morning... but decided to pass. Call me a poopie head, but I'm not sure my OCD'ness would put Eleanor in a position to need a full cover. Poopie head = this guy ;-)
Lfepardo posted:X2, car looks awesome. To piggy back what James mentioned...
- consider the Tenax fastners... You won't need as many as if you use snaps, and look awesome/ more OEm.
http://www.eagleday.com/tenaxfasteners1.html
- also, the new WHEEL looks AWESOME. I notice you still have the short studs on. Will you put on 45mm ( in lie ow of the 38s). If you are looking for black studs, Alex @ Vintage M. can get them for you in 48.5mm lenth in the M12 x 1.5 to fit the AC industry kit you have installed.
Congrats... Love the approach you are taking to build your car.
cheers,
Luis
Hey Luis - Thanks!!!
Alex and I had a pretty extensive convo about the studs and length exposed with the new rims. They are thicker then the typical chrome 5-wides. When I installed them, I felt very comfortable with the amount of thread left. I'm not a huge fan of studs that stick out further then necessary when the bolts are at the proper tq. There's enough thread with the shorter 38mm. Plus, I will have the moon hub caps on and you won't even see the studs and bolts...
MusbJim posted:DANG! Your car looks awesome with those wheels.
Thanks! They are noticeably lighter compared to the typical chrome 5-wides...
I'd rethink your OCD'ness... (whatever that is)
It's inevitable that Eleanor WILL eventually be put in a position(s) where she'll much appreciate a full. zippered down the middle, Tenax fasened tonneau....and her care taker/driver will appreciate how it eliminates the cockpit whirlwind at highway cruising velocities!
Have you thought about - or do you even need - getting a set of drumskins to go under the Wide Fives? I'm not sure if your car needs them, but I had them on my last car, and they looked great. I know you are going with moon hubcaps, but there may be tijmes when you want a different look. Just a thought...I had moon caps on mine also, but took them off once in a while, just to change the look of the car.
BTW, beautiful car you have there!
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*LongFella posted:MusbJim posted:DANG! Your car looks awesome with those wheels.
Thanks! They are noticeably lighter compared to the typical chrome 5-wides...
The car is looking really great! I'm impressed with the design choices you've made. Beautiful!
How's the motor coming?
TRP posted:*LongFella posted:MusbJim posted:DANG! Your car looks awesome with those wheels.
Thanks! They are noticeably lighter compared to the typical chrome 5-wides...
The car is looking really great! I'm impressed with the design choices you've made. Beautiful!
How's the motor coming?
The engines look at me every time I walk in the garage and haunt me... LOL!
I've got the 1915 on the stand and will start the top end rebuild. The old 1600 is torn apart, bored for 90.5, and packed away. Not sure what to do with that. I keep thinking a 2110 would be a nice all around motor to have, but I might have bitten more then I can chow when it comes to building engines...
On the 1915, you should replace that sump. Keep the sump plate, but replace the actual sump. There is a stud in the sump which I was never able to get quite right.
TRP posted:On the 1915, you should replace that sump. Keep the sump plate, but replace the actual sump. There is a stud in the sump which I was never able to get quite right.
I'm planning to replace a few things on the 1915, clean it up, repaint some things, and get it all nice a pretty before installing. I've got the rockers off and stashed away so I don't reduce the live of the valve springs while it sits...
Pick up a few remaining items for the interior (seats, door panels, rear seat). Still need to pick up the top, side curtains, and 1/4 tonneau.
I'm really really glad I went with the german square weave carpet. It smooths all the colors out in the interior. The transitions flow nicely
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Many benefits to having a full tonnneau...
Regarding the Tenax fasteners, I was thinking of using them for my engine tins. Do they fit snug or would they rattle a lot?
Using Tenax fasteners for my engine tins would not be my first thought. 10-32 screws, maybe, but not Tenax.
But what do I know.....I'm just an old guy with glasses and a walker. Once I get down on that stupid floor creeper I need help to get back up so I just stay there and take a nap.
I think a Tenax is appropriate for something you remove often. I don't think that would be the case with engine tins. Also, the tins already have threaded holes for machine screws to hold it all together.
Tenax fasteners wouldn't hold metal pieces together as tightly as a machine screw and things probably would rattle or buzz.
English Tenax fasteners are cheaper than German ones. Probably most people would know you cheated. I got mine from here: https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/search?query=tenax
Since Bill in Hawaii meandered off this tread of already multiple 'subjects' with his fastener question it leaves an opening for me to ask: "Why is it that spyders don't need engine tins... but speedsters do?"
I'm guessing that it's that they didn't expect the Spyders to do much sitting in traffic. A constant, high-speed air flow would keep any heat from building up.
That and the amount of actual open space under and around the Spyder is vastly greater than the amount of open space under a Speedster if you removed the tins. With the Speedster there would be concern of pulling in only heated air from the exhaust. Under the Spyder there is so much open space the heat dissipates everywhere.
Nothing new on the Speedster, but I am enjoying the greatest Pilsner known to mankind IMO. You can't beat the original Pilsner from Pilzen when you're in the Czech Republic! Love this place!
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5 liters of good beer for about $14USD! Thank goodness CZ is still on the Krono and not the Euro...
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Nothing new to update on my build. We just got back into town and now back to the grind...
Here are some photos of a car show that happened to be in Sokolov, CZ (where we stayed and where my wife was born). Some great looking older cars - surprised to see them in such a small town on the west side of Czech.
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We also went to a little car museum in a small spa city outside Karlovy Vary.
Enjoy the photos!
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Hey, I'm really surprised that all those prewar vehicles survived the war!
I would have thought that the Soviets confiscated everything on wheels as war reparations....Huh?
Carl Berry CT. posted:Hey, I'm really surprised that all those prewar vehicles survived the war!
I would have thought that the Soviets confiscated everything on wheels as war reparations....Huh?
I can't say if all were in CZ when initially found and restored, but I can CZ was pretty untouched during WWII. A lot of the original buildings and churches still stand today. It's a beautiful country
Very cool cars! Thanks for sharing those pics, Longfellow!
Interesting specs on those pre-war Mercedes. Only 38 hp out of 1700 cc and top speed of 67 mph. By contemporary standards, Herr Doktor wasn't doing too bad with his one liter doodlebug.
Did a little work on the Speedster this morning. I ran the battery cable front to back and set up the negative battery cable too.
Where's the typical location for the negative battery cable? Couldn't find any good photos on the site...
Is it me, or is it weird the positive battery cable kind of hangs where it comes out of the front compartment going into the cab and back out the rear, hanging again, before it is connected to the starter. I can shorten the wire, but it just looks odd...
?? Can't really picture it.
Photos??
Gordon Nichols posted:?? Can't really picture it.
Photos??
Sorry! I know better... ALSO post pics!
Two pics. First is the front and second is the rear. Just seams odd that the battery cable just hangs and isn't attacked to anything. Should it be? I don't have it attached to the starter, but it looks the same as the front section...
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In the rear photo, is that the cable rubbing on the shock absorber? That could be shocking. 