On the VS carpet set most pieces need to have "relief" cuts aka wedge cuts made to allow for forming carpet pieces to lay correctly the worst pieces are the two along the door rockers. but all pieces can be cut so that the cuts are hidden under over lapping pieces Alan ............ my cell 717 860 8476
Thanks Alan!
Greg and I spoke again this morning and we've got a game plan. Unfortunately, they will need my Speedster for another week. That is the best option to make sure the carpet is installed correctly and looks good.
Greg will get my Speedster over to the carpet shop that cut the pieces. They will inspect each piece, re-cut if needed, and install the carpet. Then it is back over to Greg's for the final detail/polish. I'm also having Greg lay the wire harness in prior to the carpet install. The carpet shop doesn't have an opening until next week (bummer!). And I was also hoping to get pics of all the install work to keep, but it doesn't look like that will happen (I have a plan to put a little book together once everything is complete) :-/
And the plans changed again... LOL!
To be continued... 
......and that folks is what the " Madness " herein is all about , I'm just say'n.
Complete madness!! LOL!!
A plan has been made and Greg was a HUGE help in getting it all squared away. I owe him and his Team several 30-racks of beer 
I miss Eleanor...
My baby Natalie even walks to the garage door and points at it for me to open... when I do... she looks back with a glossy gaze and a "where the F" is my steering wheel to hold?!?!
Long(fella) over due update....
Got this nice little photo from Greg. Carpet kit installed! I had an opportunity to chat with Greg about the complexities and challenges with installing german square weave. It's stiff. It's not fun. It takes a LOT of time to mold and manipulate. I haven't had a chance to really exam all the corners and folds, but from what I can tell - hats off to Greg and making the right call.
LIke I mentioned before, this is my first chassis up build and I'm learning as I go. You all have been a HUGE help with my build. Suggestions made this past year, I've applied - so thank you!
If I could do this carpet thing all over again... and yes... Greg said this from the very beginning (and I wish I had the means and time)... I "should of have the carpet cut to my car" and not buy it as a kit. Lesson learned!
All said and done, I'm looking forward to bringing Eleanor home in a few days 
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Looking good from here.
That car is going to be sooooooo nice! 
Looks great.
Well, today is the day I finely bring Eleanor home. Unfortunately, Greg called me yesterday afternoon and said there is an issue with the front end (bushing??) I bought through Griffens (the shop Kirk uses and I believe Greg from time to time - or they at least know each other). So... another bump in the madness road...
Frustrating to say the least and I hope Mike at Griffens holds up to fixing the issue without any problems. It's not like I have been driving this thing...
Eleanor is finally home.
The final detail on the paint is amazing. Just look at the mirror shine! I'm planning to have a double coat of OptiCoat Pro applied this weekend to protect the paint.
After all the crazy madness, the carpet install turned out pretty good. There are I a few spots, I'm told, that will set over time. In one area I'll try and work some magic with some crazy strong glue. For what Greg and his guys had to work with, they did really good. German square weave is some seriously stiff sh&@ to work with.
Next issue to deal with is the inner lower left front beam bushing that Greg feels is shot and needs to be replaced. Thankfully, Mike at Griffens were I purchased the front end is willing to get the parts needed to replace the bushing(s).
Mandatory pics below
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Looks great. We should all be so lucky.
Well, it looks perfect to me. Great color and super-fine paint. Now, for the finishing touches . . .
Question for the pros:
After taking measurements, the passenger side front fender (ground to top of fender) is about 3/4" lower than the driver side. It is noticeable as if the suspension is sagging to the driver side. What would cause that?
I have not adjusted the two adjustable front beam thingies and I am going to have to replace the inner bushing on the lower driver side arm since Greg mentioned there is too much play in it... but what would cause it to be lower? Was the body put on correctly/incorrectly?
Thanks in advance for the help!!!
Did you measure it previously? How's the rear?
crhemi (Bill) poboiinhawaii posted:Did you measure it previously? How's the rear?
Rear is fine. I also put the adjustable spring plates in the rear so I can fine tune the height as needed.
Almost forgot the nice little paint job I had done on the gas tank. Looks amazing!
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Looking really good!
There are several reasons why the front may not be level. To rule out the possibility of an incorrectly mounted body, you should measure from the pan to the floor. It could be as simple as broken/worn torsion springs.
IMHO you should replace ALL suspension components with new parts. You are having a really nice car built, spend several hundred more and replace everything. Bushings, bearings, ball joints, check and regrease torsion springs, new tie rod ends, shocks, check and regrease wheel bearings and seals, new steering damper and check steering box. That's most of the components. There is no reason to leave old components and have to worry about them later.
Just my 2 cents.
James
Tank looks good.
Was the front previously measured and it sagged later?
It the beam a reman if so Mexico or Brazil ? You may have weak set of torsion springs places. I have had reman beams with bad ball joints.
James posted:Looking really good!
There are several reasons why the front may not be level. To rule out the possibility of an incorrectly mounted body, you should measure from the pan to the floor. It could be as simple as broken/worn torsion springs.
IMHO you should replace ALL suspension components with new parts. You are having a really nice car built, spend several hundred more and replace everything. Bushings, bearings, ball joints, check and regrease torsion springs, new tie rod ends, shocks, check and regrease wheel bearings and seals, new steering damper and check steering box. That's most of the components. There is no reason to leave old components and have to worry about them later.
Just my 2 cents.
James
Front beam was purchased from Griffen's (Mike). This is who Kirk and Greg (some times) uses for a complete rebuilt front beam. All ball joints are new, steering damper/box is new, etc...
crhemi (Bill) poboiinhawaii posted:Tank looks good.
Was the front previously measured and it sagged later?
Didn't really notice the sag until now. The speedster is usually on jack stands when it sits in my garage while working on it...
Alan Merklin posted:It the beam a reman if so Mexico or Brazil ? You may have weak set of torsion springs places. I have had reman beams with bad ball joints.
Not sure on Mexico or Brazil. How can I check? Os should I ask where the markings are?
Ball joints are new as is all the the seals, etc. Not sure about the torsion springs...
Greg did mention the inner drivers side lower bushing needs to be replaced as there is too much play. He didn't mention anything about the passenger side, which is the side the is sitting lower...
Since I will have the lower torsion springs out, I might has well check the top one too...
More madness...
This beam was fully rebuilt when I bought it... shouldn't all of this been checked before I paid $$$$
Seems like the quality control is lacking a lot. Too many errors resulting in too many defects...
....This all part of the Madness ~
Could the body have warped a little as it's curing?
crhemi (Bill) poboiinhawaii posted:Could the body have warped a little as it's curing?
I doubt it, but I can always ask Greg. They let it sit out side in the hot sun after paint for a while before it was mounted to my chassis...
90% of the time when one side of the front is lower it is because the opposite side in the REAR is too high. It doesn't take much change in the rear to affect the front even more. I would start there.
Gordon Nichols posted:90% of the time when one side of the front is lower it is because the opposite side in the REAR is too high. It doesn't take much change in the rear to affect the front even more. I would start there.
Will do! And the timing on your reply is epic! I am in my office while the baby girl is napping researching on the Samba... I found at least two threads about adjusting the rear... glad I put the adjustable spring plates on
Brian,
Being a recent newcomer to the forum I just notice this thread and decided to read it from beginning to end. . . and I must say what a terrific learning experience it has been. It has now been bookmarked for future reference. Wish I'd done so much earlier before having my Vintage Speedster completed but that is now in the past. Never the less the thread has still been a big help because I've picked up some great ideas which can still be retrofitted to our car as time allows.
Thank you for keeping every one so well informed on your progress.
Kind regards,
Cliff
Brian:
yours will be easier with the adjustable spring plates, but this might help;
Quick little update...
I got around to the final prep and protection of the paint. Spent several hours this morning doing a final buff. I also put two thick coats of Gyeon Q2 MOH. This stuff is amazing. Completely beeds water and protects from UV and bird sh$&. Now I can start putting all the trim pieces and emblems on
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Looks good Brian! Love the color.
Nice pair of legs just kidding.
Dang Brain you can remove all the mirrors in your house and just use your car. Looks absolutely fantastic!
What a shine! Way above average. Good on ya!
If a fly tries to land on it, he'll slip and break his neck....
Eleanor has her top put back on this morning
I also finished installing the front harness and fuse box. Rear license plate/reverse light and side mirror installed too.
Question for the members: Do you stow your Speedster with the top up fully attached or down?
Mandatory pics below!
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