Lfepardo posted:Looks awesome...
Also looks like the NLA (Stoddard) part number... A pair is a couple $$'s cheaper if sourced straight through NLA.
http://www.nlaparts.com/store/...der-seal-p-1520.html
It's possible. I've realized there are multiple sites online for us to get parts from and they all could be getting them from the same spot or not and just price a little different to attract business...
Question for the wiring pros:
How many wires do I need coming off the wiper motor?
I am using a refurb'd unit I got from Kirk at VS and it only has two wires coming off of 53 and 53b.
Oh and there will be more wiring questions coming...
Ground, Low, High and optional "Park" this wire is always powered hot and keeps power to the motor when you turn it off until the arms come to the rest position....just bench test the wires to figure what's what . Merry Christmas!
Trying to research the proper key/ignition for my Eleanor, does this look like it is the proper one:
http://www.stoddard.com/64461310106-nla.html
Or this one: http://www.nlaparts.com/store/...ch-bosch-p-1568.html
Also, does any have a ink to the proper relays (and how many I need)?
I'm off this week and "plan" to finish all the wiring...
I think http://www.stoddard.com/64461310101.html is closer to being correct, and is also less than half price (a nice little bonus not usually seen when buying Porsche parts, although $70 is still outrageous). Is there a specific reason you picked the later one, Brian?
ALB posted:I think http://www.stoddard.com/64461310101.html is closer to being correct, and is also less than half price (a nice little bonus not usually seen when buying Porsche parts, although $70 is still outrageous). Is there a specific reason you picked the later one, Brian?
No particular reason other then liking the bezel, but I want to make sure it is more period correct for my year (that's more important than style/look).
The one you linked also looks like the one I posted in the second link (ninja post edit was made)
Are these the only two relays I need?
The one you picked will work as well, and looks the part. I'm not trying to be rude, but remember that it is a plastic car, does not have a P vin# and 99.9% of the people that see your car will not pick up on details like this, so do whatever makes you happy and don't worry about what anyone else thinks. Al
ALB posted:The one you picked will work as well, and looks the part. I'm not trying to be rude, but remember that it is a plastic car, does not have a P vin# and 99.9% of the people that see your car will not pick up on details like this, so do whatever makes you happy and don't worry about what anyone else thinks. Al
It's more fiberglass than plastic LOL! 
I liked the comment on the other thread about it being a "65 VW with an identity crisis" if someone asks 
NAPA sells a couple of univ. ign switches one has a bezel that can be easily polished about $24
Longfella!
Nobody has answered your question, so here's the wiring diagram for a '69 VW Sedan. It's a 2-speed wiper motor (over on the right, second page) so I hope this helps. Sorry, but I don't have anything earlier than 1968, but they do over on the Samba. The terminal designators (numbers) should be the same on the motor and the switch (#53 goes to #53, etc.), and as Dr. Clock mentioned, it's pretty easy to bench test it with a battery, switch and a bunch of wires - I do that stuff all the time.....My bench usually looks like Doc Brown's lab.....Or like a bomb hit it, I dunno.
*LongFella posted:Are these the only two relays I need?
In looking at pics I took while at VS several months ago, do I only need the "flasher relay" and nothing else? I don't see reference to anything else in the VS wiring diagrams...
*LongFella posted:
That's the one I am using. It's looks very close to the correct switch. It is a Bosch switch and good quality.
Plus, it's cheaper and I'm a bargain hunter! Lol.
James
*LongFella posted:ALB posted:The one you picked will work as well, and looks the part. I'm not trying to be rude, but remember that it is a plastic car, does not have a P vin# and 99.9% of the people that see your car will not pick up on details like this, so do whatever makes you happy and don't worry about what anyone else thinks. Al
It's more fiberglass than plastic LOL!
I liked the comment on the other thread about it being a "65 VW with an identity crisis" if someone asks
What can I say, although it is fiberglass, I think "plastic" is much more descriptive!
Once upon a time talking with a Porsche owner about replicas, he called it a "plastic abortion"- a little rude, I know, but the plastic part stuck....
And I have to agree- "65 VW with an identity crisis" is a great line!
I refurbished a '70 2-speed unit and this is the way I wired it. I am using a universal 3 position switch (off, on, on). If you are using a VW switch, match up the numbers between the switch and the wiper unit like Gordon mentioned above. You need to have a continuous hot on 53a in order for the wipers to park in the same position and it should be switched thru the ignition.
There are several ways to use relays and I would have to study the VS wiring diagram to understand what they are trying to do. I built my own harness from my own wiring system design. It is very similar to the VW system but with a few extra circuits, relays, fuses and grounds for protection and reliability. Someone with more experience with the VS system would be better at answering your relay question. Maybe @Alan Merklin?
Price aside that Bosch ignition is top notch. Nice action, push in the start etc. Worth the money.
*LongFella posted:Are these the only two relays I need?
Make sure you use relays for the headlights. Otherwise the headlight switch handles the load and gets hot.
James posted:
I refurbished a '70 2-speed unit and this is the way I wired it. I am using a universal 3 position switch (off, on, on). If you are using a VW switch, match up the numbers between the switch and the wiper unit like Gordon mentioned above. You need to have a continuous hot on 53a in order for the wipers to park in the same position and it should be switched thru the ignition.
There are several ways to use relays and I would have to study the VS wiring diagram to understand what they are trying to do. I built my own harness from my own wiring system design. It is very similar to the VW system but with a few extra circuits, relays, fuses and grounds for protection and reliability. Someone with more experience with the VS system would be better at answering your relay question. Maybe @Alan Merklin?
Alan has definitely been a huge help!
The wiring diagram VS uses is all sorts of wacky and not very user friendly. It will be a slow process for me :/
I have two three position VW switches I'm using (standard VS build that Kirk uses).
I'll grab the boys he ignition from SMC since it's on sale.
How about the flasher relay? Just one with four prongs by VW?
Robert M posted:*LongFella posted:Are these the only two relays I need?
Make sure you use relays for the headlights. Otherwise the headlight switch handles the load and gets hot.
Makes sense. So one of each in the links I posted. Thanks!
For reference, based on my experience when I chnaged my switch in 2015
IGNITION SWITCH-
- the switch VS uses. $2$; http://www.autopartswarehouse....itch/REPJ503901.html
- the Bosch replacement part in most pre-'57 porsches, 49$.,, same part sold by Stoodard/NLA/ and sierra made at 1.5x - 2x the price;
https://www.carpartsdiscount.c...eys.html?3593=518963
If you want to use the post '57A T2 chrome bezel, the stock part manufactured by NLA/Stoddard will workwith the above referee Bosch switch... or you can buy it for more $at Sierramade .
http://www.nlaparts.com/store/...i9b3&x=0&y=0
samepart #s/price at Stoddard: http://www.stoddard.com/64461310101.html
fyi- NLA and Stoddard are the same company ( one bought the other out years back).... And the only US company licensed by Porsche to manufacture classic/vintage Porsche car parts.... this is why they are typically cheaper than some of the other Porsche parts stores out there who sell their OEM part number parts.
RELAYS-
the relays I found at NAPA, locally.... just brought in the VW part number, year, and picture from Socal web site... and they pulled them out of the back... saved me the shipping cost.
FLASHER RELAY- i had to use the two prong because of the way my VS was wired- http://www.socalautoparts.com/...er-relay-pin-p-14285
Side note....for my blinker relay... they actually provided me a part number that was also LED bulb compatible... so I could replace my blinker light bulbs with LEDs... the standard blinker relay may not " blink" with the lower draw LED bulbs. I could dig the part number up if you want it.
Hope this helps- good luck.
Luis,
Oh... and Ted's write up really helped me with the installation process... switching from my standard VS switch to the Bosch.
https://www.speedsterowners.com...-new-ignition-switch
Have fun!
*LongFella posted:Robert M posted:*LongFella posted:Are these the only two relays I need?
Make sure you use relays for the headlights. Otherwise the headlight switch handles the load and gets hot.
Makes sense. So one of each in the links I posted. Thanks!
Brian,
I used dual 87 output relays from NAPA. Napa AR274 is the part number and it has dual 87 output pins. I bought two and used one relay for the low beams and one for the high beams. I mounted an additional fuse block in the forward battery compartment and put the headlight relays and the horn relay in there also.
May I ask where you got the automotive wiring tape, the paper looking stuff?
Thanks for ALL the help everyone!
I just ordered everything I needed. I probably could have drove to pick it all up, but the ability to "get away" with a toddler is impossible... so... I bite the bullet on some shipping costs :-/
For reference, I am using two of these that I got from Kirk. One for the headlights and the other for the wipers.
And a pic of my starting point with this wiring stuff...
Brian, that headlight switch is a notorious trouble point on the VS. Mine started smoking and almost caught fire.
If you're building from scratch, now would be a good time to swap in a better one. Just search this forum for 'headlight switch' and you'll find many threads about this and links to better alternatives.
Sacto Mitch posted:
Brian, that headlight switch is a notorious trouble point on the VS. Mine started smoking and almost caught fire.
If you're building from scratch, now would be a good time to swap in a better one. Just search this forum for 'headlight switch' and you'll find many threads about this and links to better alternatives.
Would the be the reason why it was suggested to run a headlight relay so that the load isn't hitting the switch (total noob here)???
*LongFella posted:Would the be the reason why it was suggested to run a headlight relay so that the load isn't hitting the switch (total noob here)???
One of the reasons.
Using relays for the headlights is a good idea no matter which switch you use. First, it keeps the heavy current load of the headlight circuit away from the contact points inside the switch, so the switch should last almost forever.
But it also lets you place the relay near the headlights, so the wire runs carrying the headlight current can be kept short, reducing the resistance in that circuit and allowing the headlights to shine brighter.
Sacto Mitch posted:*LongFella posted:Would the be the reason why it was suggested to run a headlight relay so that the load isn't hitting the switch (total noob here)???
One of the reasons.
Using relays for the headlights is a good idea no matter which switch you use. First, it keeps the heavy current load of the headlight circuit away from the contact points inside the switch, so the switch should last almost forever.
But it also lets you place the relay near the headlights, so the wire runs carrying the headlight current can be kept short, reducing the resistance in that circuit and allowing the headlights to shine brighter.
Shorter wire headlight current resistance.. what the... LOL!
Just when you think you have a grip on things... nope... LOL!
Where's my Jameson... 
Absolutely, positively use relays for the headlights. One for high beams another for low beams, at minimum. Keep the high current out of the switch, no matter how nice it is. Trust us on this one.
El Frazoo posted:Absolutely, positively use relays for the headlights. One for high beams another for low beams, at minimum. Keep the high current out of the switch, no matter how nice it is. Trust us on this one.
What would you recommend to use as the second one?
Brian, talking about car wiring, or writing about it, can get very confusing in a hurry - especially if one is a little foggy about auto electrics to begin with. Wiring diagrams help a lot - but only if you understand what they're telling you. And to complicate matters, VS doesn't follow the VW wiring diagram very closely.
Yes, you do need the two relays you link to - the first is a flasher relay that (surprise) flashes the turn signals when you turn them on. The second one is usually called a 'dipping' relay - it switches between high beams and low beams. Kirk told you these are the only two you need because they are the only ones he installs on a new VS.
The relays Robert mentions are for safety and electrical efficiency and are used on practically every modern vehicle for many purposes. A relay is basically just an electrically controlled switch. It takes a very small amount of current to trigger this switch, but the switch can control circuits that carry heavy current loads.
Almost all auto supply places sell generic 12-volt relays that are used for operating many types of circuits on all cars - headlights, horns, motors, fans, etc. These relays are usually rated at 20 or 30 amps - the current in the circuits they are controlling. They're '12-volt' relays because they're triggered by the standard 12 volts in automotive electrical systems.
By now, I've probably proven my point that talking about car wiring can get very confusing. And you're right - usually the only solution to this comes in a bottle.
Longfella What paint (Beige?) did you use on the signal switch to match the steering wheel ?
Sacto Mitch posted:
Brian, talking about car wiring, or writing about it, can get very confusing in a hurry - especially if one is a little foggy about auto electrics to begin with. Wiring diagrams help a lot - but only if you understand what they're telling you. And to complicate matters, VS doesn't follow the VW wiring diagram very closely.
Yes, you do need the two relays you link to - the first is a flasher relay that (surprise) flashes the turn signals when you turn them on. The second one is usually called a 'dipping' relay - it switches between high beams and low beams. Kirk told you these are the only two you need because they are the only ones he installs on a new VS.
The relays Robert mentions are for safety and electrical efficiency and are used on practically every modern vehicle for many purposes. A relay is basically just an electrically controlled switch. It takes a very small amount of current to trigger this switch, but the switch can control circuits that carry heavy current loads.
Almost all auto supply places sell generic 12-volt relays that are used for operating many types of circuits on all cars - headlights, horns, motors, fans, etc. These relays are usually rated at 20 or 30 amps - the current in the circuits they are controlling. They're '12-volt' relays because they're triggered by the standard 12 volts in automotive electrical systems.
By now, I've probably proven my point that talking about car wiring can get very confusing. And you're right - usually the only solution to this comes in a bottle.
So it sounds like I need a third relay: "a generic 12-volt" that goes between the headlight and headlight relay for safety measures?
Doesn't that seem like over kill or is that my noob status talking?
Most of the pictures I've taken of Kirk's cars only have a flasher relay and I assumed they used the headlight switch has the only relay for the headlights, which I know now is a no no.
I bet if I build another one of these identity crisis nettles it would take me a couple months working on the weekends... LOL!
Alan Merklin posted:Longfella What paint (Beige?) did you use on the signal switch to match the steering wheel ?
This is what I'm using for ALL interior pieces. IMO it matches the steering wheel and knobs almost perfectly. The shifter, shifter base, turn signal housing, steering column shaft and mounting hardware... all will get or have gotten several coats by spray can and hand painting.
Ok, I've got everything labeled now and it's starting to make a little sense.
Question on the second photo: The wires you see are coming from the turn signal on the steering column. I've matched the blk/wht and grn/blk... but I don't know where the black and blue (which connects to the black wire go. Thoughts?
*LongFella posted:So it sounds like I need a third relay: "a generic 12-volt" that goes between the headlight and headlight relay for safety measures?
Well, actually, you need a third and a fourth and a fifth relay. But don't worry, they're cheap.
The third for low beams. The fourth for high beams. The fifth for the 'running' lights (the 'parking lights' up front and the tail lights in the rear). The third and fourth ones are what Robert was talking about here:
*ROBERT M posted:Brian, I used dual 87 output relays from NAPA. Napa AR274 is the part number and it has dual 87 output pins. I bought two and used one relay for the low beams and one for the high beams. I mounted an additional fuse block in the forward battery compartment and put the headlight relays and the horn relay in there also.
Robert put all this stuff up front near the battery to keep the wires between the battery and the headlights as short as possible. The shorter the wires, the brighter the headlights will shine.
He used 'dual 87 output relays' so he could hook one output up to the left headlight and one to the right.
The relay for the running lights can just be placed under the dash since those bulbs draw a lot less current than the headlights and their brightness won't be affected very much by longer wire runs.
*LongFella posted:Alan Merklin posted:Longfella What paint (Beige?) did you use on the signal switch to match the steering wheel ?
This is what I'm using for ALL interior pieces. IMO it matches the steering wheel and knobs almost perfectly. The shifter, shifter base, turn signal housing, steering column shaft and mounting hardware... all will get or have gotten several coats by spray can and hand painting.
Great find! Thanks..
*LongFella posted:Finished the headlights! I decided to use the correct headlight to fender rubber from SMC. Kirk uses a different method and I wasn't liking the look IMO. I also finished all the front-end wiring. It's nicely tucked away (where I could) and wrapped in auto fabric tape. Each light has its own dedicated ground wire too.
Thank you Doc for helping me out with the three headlight wires and how they attach to the wiring harness.
Mandatory pics below. Oh and look at that gas tank! She's a beauty
In pics 3&4 you have your headlight grounds wired to a stud which I assume is the through bolt for the bumper ends. How are you grounded as the bolt is attached to the fiberglass?
Cars looking great, love the color combo.
PS: sorry for the late to party response, just catching up.
Speaking of grounds...
Where's the best location to attach your negative battery cable - the main one off the negative battery terminal?
Maybe one of the four large bolts that holds the front beam?
