Just Saying Hi...

'Momentary on' just means it's a spring-loaded push button (like the one that rings a doorbell). The switch is 'closed' when you push the button and 'off' at all other times.

This is needed to activate the dipping relay, which is a special kind of relay that flip-flops between two positions and stays there whenever it gets a signal from another switch.

In our cars, one side of the dipping relay is hooked up to the high beams and the other to the low beams.

So... you push the 'momentary' switch and the lights switch from low to high beams and stay there until you push the button again.

I'm starting to understand this a little better - thank you!

Since my turn signal doesn't have a high beam function, the momentary switch is used to activate them.

Makes me think I should have had Greg use a different turn signal switch when he was making this for me. Nonetheless, onward to victory!

.                                                             ......or you can put a 1960's 3 prong manual floor dimmer switch on the floor for $9.99 and avoid wiring the relay. It makes for a great place to rest your  lost left foot  while driving.  Headlight power out terminal on light switch goes to center terminal on dimmer them your high and low beam wires go to either of the two remaining terminals.

Brian, this is as far under my dash as I can go without physical therapy:

You can see where VS mounts the little push button high beam switch. It's not a great solution as you have to lean forward a bit to reach it, but it is cheap and easy to put there.

In the background, you can see where the flasher relay is mounted - elegantly glued to the steering column bracket with a dollop of clear silicone. On a VS, no expense is spared to do things the right way.

And THAT is why I chose to do my wiring from scratch.

I haven't had a dimmer switch on the floor since I sold my '66 Mustang.  Wouldn't go back to that on a bet (the foot dimmer, not the Mustang).

My dimmer is on the directional stalk and uses the same mechanical toggle switch for hi/lo beam.  It also flashes high beam whenever pulled - just like every other car I've owned since that Mustang.  My driving lights come on automatically with high beam - they have no dash switch, they just work and go out when the key is turned off.  It takes a little thought to figure out how to do all this stuff in the background, but it becomes very natural the first time you drive it.

BTW:  Original 356's had a horn button and a separate horn/trim ring in the middle of the steering wheel.  Push the horn button and the horn blew (duh...), but push the trim ring and the high beams flashed.  THAT was cool.

Sacto Mitch posted:

 

Brian, this is as far under my dash as I can go without physical therapy:

You can see where VS mounts the little push button high beam switch. It's not a great solution as you have to lean forward a bit to reach it, but it is cheap and easy to put there.

In the background, you can see where the flasher relay is mounted - elegantly glued to the steering column bracket with a dollop of clear silicone. On a VS, no expense is spared to do things the right way.

 

This is a huge help! Thank you!

I have the push button at the end of the signal light switch that is the dimmer and the flash button for the lights during the daytime.  I did not want a foot switch as well even  if the button is period correct Somethings I can pass on ... but only some things.  

Speaking of getting under the dash .... my uncle who was in the Sicily invasion said they were bombed once and he never knew how much he could bend until he had to get into a culvert to save himself... he laughed  

Gordon Nichols posted:

BTW:  Original 356's had a horn button and a separate horn/trim ring in the middle of the steering wheel.  Push the horn button and the horn blew (duh...), but push the trim ring and the high beams flashed.  THAT was cool.

Hmmm... I really like the original steering wheel too...

I know there is a replica/recreation one out there. It's like $2k?? Then again, it's not like I've gone cheap with this build...

Now to get permission from the CEO (aka wifey).

I think I found an option...

This is a pic of a 57' Speedster I've been trying to mirror/replicate for my build. I never research why there was a second smaller switch on the far left side of the dash. Maybe I can use this as a spot for my high beam switch? I would just need to find a switch that could hold that style knob...

Probably a driving or fog light switch.... after looking at it again...  It is in my opinion a fog light switch. 

Me too.

I don't drive the Speedy much at night, but when I do it's often on dark, rural roads (no streetlights) with lots of oncoming traffic. So, I'm working the dimming switch as I drive a lot, as oncoming traffic approaches and passes.

A switch on the dash is just a bit too far to reach without leaning forward in your seat.

This is probably why the foot switch was usually used for this before they came up with the switch on the column. (My dad's '52 Buick had a foot switch, too.)

Think this through a bit. It's easier to get it right now than to redo it later.

I'd love that steering wheel and rig the horn ring to do the high beams...

might be hard to do as the ring on my original was tied to the horn directly.

"I don't drive the Speedy much at night, but when I do it's often on dark, rural roads and I'm traveling quite fast, so I have the eighteen bazillion candlepower of four Halogen lights out front, taxing my charging circuit to the max and melting the tail lights of whatever gets in front of me."

Stay illuminated, my friends......

Brian,

like in many VS, I have the 60/70's turn signal with the high beam button on the blinker arm ( very convenient)...

But I have the parts to switch over to the more classic turn signal like you are installing. These are the options I have been exploring... Maybe I wil get arround to this before this winter, problem is is still drive the car when it's not raining, so opi don't want to start taking the electrical apart ;-)

1) my preffered choice- what IM does;

here are the original wood floor panel for 356 ( recently replaced on my fathers car)   IM builds angeled floor panels like in the original 356s ( out of all weather plywood, or fiberglass...), screwed into place/ the firewall.

pictre of the switch-

And switch carpet grommet ( you install on the carpet to have a clean hole for the switch.

Side note- Beetle guys instal the switch on the firewall, and to make it easier to access they install a rubber pad, or pedal- i hace big feet, so this would not Soria for me.

The round rubber pad pictured is actually for a 57 chevi, 5$;

3) or you can add and modify a dead pedal to install the high beam switch-  the AC cobra guys do this.

Here is  a 356//911 dead pedal you can easily install and modify.... I actually have one of these, and it's easy to install ( 

Installed n a VS-

4) OR oyou can just replace the blinker arm back to a later beetle model with the high beam button on the arm.-  VS wiring bundle is already set u for this.

I have tons tons of erase arch on this install and related wiring... pM me if you want any details.  Happy to call you as well at a convenient time.

chers,

Luis

Were you also looking for some light switch wiring color guidance?

 I just found this in my iPad.  Someone in the forum sent me this when I had to replace my switch.

Hope this helps!

cheers

Lfepardo posted:

Were you also looking for some light switch wiring color guidance?

 I just found this in my iPad.  Someone in the forum sent me this when I had to replace my switch.

Hope this helps!

cheers

I found the thread with this pic in it and printed for reference - huge help!

Lfepardo posted:

Brian,

like in many VS, I have the 60/70's turn signal with the high beam button on the blinker arm ( very convenient)...

But I have the parts to switch over to the more classic turn signal like you are installing. These are the options I have been exploring... Maybe I wil get arround to this before this winter, problem is is still drive the car when it's not raining, so opi don't want to start taking the electrical apart ;-)

1) my preffered choice- what IM does;

here are the original wood floor panel for 356 ( recently replaced on my fathers car)   IM builds angeled floor panels like in the original 356s ( out of all weather plywood, or fiberglass...), screwed into place/ the firewall.

pictre of the switch-

And switch carpet grommet ( you install on the carpet to have a clean hole for the switch.

Side note- Beetle guys instal the switch on the firewall, and to make it easier to access they install a rubber pad, or pedal- i hace big feet, so this would not Soria for me.

The round rubber pad pictured is actually for a 57 chevi, 5$;

3) or you can add and modify a dead pedal to install the high beam switch-  the AC cobra guys do this.

Here is  a 356//911 dead pedal you can easily install and modify.... I actually have one of these, and it's easy to install ( 

Installed n a VS-

4) OR oyou can just replace the blinker arm back to a later beetle model with the high beam button on the arm.-  VS wiring bundle is already set u for this.

 

I have tons tons of erase arch on this install and related wiring... pM me if you want any details.  Happy to call you as well at a convenient time.

chers,

Luis

I am definitely going to pick your brain more!

I thought about getting turn signal with it built in, but it doesn't "look" period correct and I'm trying to shoot for that look.

In the mean time, I can wire everything up without the high beams just to get it going as I think over all the options.

I personally have BIG feet and very Wide so the floor switch dimmer in my IM was not an option for me.... I opted for a column or turn signal blinker with a button end for dimming. You can use it to flash during the daytime.  FYI, This is an ididit column that is used the original column with dual sticks, one on both sides like Anand coupe would be nice with a VDM wheel if you have a column already that would work... 

IaM-Ray posted:

I personally have BIG feet and very Wide so the floor switch dimmer in my IM was not an option for me.... I opted for a column or turn signal blinker with a button end for dimming. You can use it to flash during the daytime.  FYI, This is an ididit column that is used the original column with dual sticks, one on both sides like Anand coupe would be nice with a VDM wheel if you have a column already that would work... 

Oh WOW! That is one beautiful dash, trim, knobs, column, steering wheel, carpet, carpet trim, vents, air knobs, turn signal, gauges... the lines are perfect... the knob colors are matching... drooling... 

I've got some work to do...

Happy New Years ALL you crazy madness members on SOC!

I'm thankful (absolutely thankful) to be able to start this project and even more thankful for ALL you madness folks in guiding me through this. Once the build is complete, we will all meet in person sooner or later

Glad you like it ,,,  

LOngfella your Deeds we have all witnessed and you were the cinderella man on this list with the level of build you have done while we watched your handy work .... happy new year to all

My weekend update: I finished the headlight and wiper wiring! Everything works (thank goodness). I had to play with the wiper wiring so that the switch I am using works correctly (first pull out position = slow; second pull out position = fast). Everything also has a dedicated ground too.

I also added the "momentary" switch for the high beams. I found a nice little black push button switch that I was able to hide out of sight, but still easy to get to if needed.

Thanks for ALL the help (especially Doc for chatting on Sunday about wiring)!

Anytime Brian, glad to be of help.

Small update: All the electrical in the front has been complete (minus the horn). Next: get the interior complete (mount seats and seat belts with proper supports on the underside). After that - I will tackle the engine. If you recall, I bought TRP's 1915cc and 1600cc. The 1600cc has been torn apart, case cleaned, aligned bored for the first time, and bored out to 90.5mm. The heads have also been cleaned and bored to a 90.5mm. I've long debated on building a reliable 2110cc engine... but for now I will likely clean up the 1915cc and install that first... and then tackle a full engine build with all the bells and whistles.

Question: Do I need anything more then the rubber seal for the gas tank sender unit? I have a VDO sender unit and it has the standard rubber gasket? What size breather hose do I need coming off of the gas filler neck?

Rubber seal only, gently go around the float torquing the screws snug...wait a few minutes and give them a final check as the rubber will compress. Breather hose: whatever fits the breather nipple on the filler neck, I put a restrictor in the hose that has a pin hole opening all you are doing is allowing the tank to vent aka equal pressure. I run the hose out the side of the trunk then go upward and into a larger fuel filter that acts as a catch  can should any gas end up there on a hard left turn.

Seats! We have seats!! After installing them, I sat in my Speedster for a good 10 mins just enjoying the moment. Believe it or not, that's the first time I've sat in one (minus a Spyder at Greg's shop). So cool!

Looking good Brian....almost there!! Then you'll need to get her sorted out before the SLO 2017 gathering.

I've been sorting throughout the build so that it is very minimal when I can finally take her out on the road

Question: Where should the fuel sender float be when inside the take? Towards the front or rear of the tank? Or does it matter?

Try your sender on the gauge electrically first, to see if it will register full when full (float up) and empty when empty (float down) before you install.  That way, you'll know that it works and in the proper fashion before you go to the work of instaling something that doesn't work right.

Once you're satisfied with that, the sender attachment plate is keyed by way of the orientation of the screw holes - it can only go on one way because one screw hole is a few degeees off to position it.

On a stock VW tank the float should be adjusted to swing down exactly.........             7" ( gives you a slight reserve) from the underside of the float plate, the float will only go one way on the tank as one of the threaded holes is slightly off  and used as a index hole.  Bend the float rod as needed to have  the top of the float even to the underside of the float plate. The float will end up being at the 9 o'clock position.  Snug the 5/16 bolts wait 5 10 minuted and snug again allowing time for the rubber seal to compress, do not over tighten.

*LongFella posted:

Seats! We have seats!! After installing them, I sat in my Speedster for a good 10 mins just enjoying the moment. Believe it or not, that's the first time I've sat in one (minus a Spyder at Greg's shop). So cool!

Stunning pal

Stunning work, I saw you in the car ... making all the engine noises with your lips.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9YluPOyXmg

IaM-Ray posted:

Stunning work, I saw you in the car ... making all the engine noises with your lips.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9YluPOyXmg

That's awesome!

Finishing up the gas tank while the little one is napping. Simple and clean

Nice work Longfella too bad you have to cover that gas tank.

IaM-Ray posted:

Nice work Longfella too bad you have to cover that gas tank.

No plans to cover (at least any time soon). I'll fab some nice rubber seals for the hinges and seal everything up from the underside too...

Brian, great job on the interior!

I like light carpet, but it can be a bear to keep clean. Now, while it's still new, may be a good time to think about this:

The spot that seems to get the most dirt and wear is the inside edge of the sill, just in front of the seats. I tend to drag my feet across there every time I get out. I've seen the carpet on some cars completely worn through there, and mine was starting to show dirt and wear after just 10,000 miles.

So, I found some vinyl at my wife's fabric shop that is a close match to the seats and had her stitch up this protective square. It has some velcro strips on the back edges to hold it to the carpet. It's easy to wipe clean and protects well.

Kirk may be able to get you the same vinyl your seats are made from.