Photo 3, you have the silver adapter which gets screwed into the port located 10 o'clock of the crank pulley, on the adapter the end hole gets the long temp sensor and the side hole gets the tabbed idiot light sender, be sure to not over tighten any of these fittings especially on the case or you'll have trouble$. I use a thread sealer that is removable .
Photo 3 was pulled off the 1600cc engine. So I'm assuming it does both the temp and pressure...
So confusing...
So I can take the old sensor off the silver adapter that has the old stuff on it... use the new skinny long VDO for temp and the silver (has a straight tab) replacing the older one currently on the adapter??
I feel like I'm trying to speak Czech to my wifey right now... at least I know how to order a beer... LOL!
Ya ! das iz guud !
Ok...
Here is what I have... a problem... the VDO sensors do not fit in the adapter... errrr....
Attachments
Images (2)
More reading...
So I have a oil temp for the idiot light location and a oil temp for the relief location on the bottom of the case.
Will this oil temp sensor fit the adaptor I have?
http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/2351.htm
It seems like it would be nice to have both oil temp and oil pressure in the same location, right? Or is it really personal preference?
There is nothing available as for one sensor for oil pressure and oil temp. You run your oil pressure from the stock location. You can use a adapter to run a electrical pressure gauge or a mechanical along with the stock sender for the dash light. If you decide to run a temp gauge you can tap the sump or side of engine case (do that before assembling engine) or if you have a later design case it may have type 3 two bolt plateat the lower right bottom of case. Drill and tap that for the sending unit. I use to run two gauges regarding oil temp, one at oil sump and one at the dual relief on a late case. Therefore, I could monitor the oil temp after it's gone thru it's cycle or course and then after the oil cooler to see what it is before going thru the engine. Now I usually set them up with a oil light. More gauges mean more things to watch and think about. With the oil light alone, just get in it and drive! Light comes on "stop". Don't over think/engineer, if you have a good secondary cooler like a setrab(which I install) and a properly tuned engine, jetted carbs, dog house or porsche style shroud and good clean air in the engine compartment you should be fine.
I'm definitely over thinking it...
I do need to reach out to Beck and make sure the sensor I have for oil pressure will work on their gauges. If so, I'll run a basic oil pressure sensor where the dual vdo sensor is and use the VDO oil temp sensor in the relief location (what the sensor was made for). That should give me enough readings to ensure the engine isn't running too hot and the pressure is fine...
Huge thank you to Carey at Beck. He replied to my email VERY quickly and answered all my questions. He even threw in a link to the adapter I needed and made sure I use the correct VDO sensor so that my gauges work. Awesome!
Just for the curious:
I'll be using the old adapter, bought a new pressure sensor (simple idiot single prong one), and the VDO sensor Carey provided with the gauges. I got an adapter for the smaller VDO oil temp sensor via amazon (you can't beat same day delivery!) (here is th additional adapter I needed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Now on to the next part...
Parts, parts, and more parts! Got a few more boxes arriving the rest of the week and that should be the last batch of items to get Eleanor on the road!!
I'm really hoping to be able to fire the engine up this weekend, but I don't think my exhaust will be in by this weekend :-/
I'll clean up and re-paint the fan shroud. Got my horns with the period correct Bosch emblem plates. Decided on the St Christopher horn button (for now). New spark plugs, oil, valve cover gaskets, timing light, oil adapter for the oil pressure and temp sensors, new clutch (since I have the motor out), new pulley for the new sand seal I installed (I figured out the problem TRP had with this 1915cc sand seal leak), new hoses for the external oil filter and breather, new fuel lines and filters... and more to come...
Let's hope once I get her up and running the usual "sorting" in VERY minimal!
Attachments
Images (1)
More stuff! Thank you CB Performance!
Attachments
Images (1)
Woohoo! My exhaust is going to be delivered Tuesday! That is the last piece of the puzzle in this maddening build (at least I hope so... LOL)!!
So happy for you, cannot wait to see her fire up and get your first drive in.
@*LongFella- What was not right about the sand seal (and what was the fix)? I noticed in the pic there's Pennzoil; are you going to be adding zddp? What did you order for exhaust? I went back 3 pages and didn't see it. Al
I have the original MagnaSpark system and I love it. It doesn't have the billet disti housing (mine is a 009) but it has been a great system for the past 17 years. If the new one is an "improvement" over a great first version, then you're gonna LOVE it!
ALB posted:@*LongFella- What was not right about the sand seal (and what was the fix)? I noticed in the pic there's Pennzoil; are you going to be adding zddp? What did you order for exhaust? I went back 3 pages and didn't see it. Al
I'm not sure of the entire history, but when I got the engine from Ted there was no sand seal (I think he pulled it out prior) installed. The case was machined, so it needs a machine-in seal and not a bolt-in seal. Ted gave me two different sand seals with the engine and three different crank pulleys. One of the seals size did not match the machined case clearance (if that makes sense). Also, two of the three pulleys we non-sand seal pulleys (they had the spiral grooves which would tear up the sand seal rubber part). Hence why you see a new pulley in one of the pics above - just decided to start fresh after adding the correct machine in sand seal based on the machined case.
The oil is the same Ted used when I got the engine. It doesn't need break-in oil since I didn't split the case and rebuild the engine. I've been keeping the engine oiled since I picked it up and made sure to turn the engine from time-to-tie per Alex's recommendation. The set of carbs I will be using are brand new (rebuilt and jetted for a 1915cc) from low bugget.
I decided on the Vintage Speed exhaust (super-flow speedster version) and their J pipes. All are made with stainless steel and it keeps to my build principles of trying to maintain the original look. It shipped yesterday and should arrive next Tuesday.
My goal this weekend is to finish all the prep and paint of the engine tins and start putting everything together. I pick up the engine build stand parts today so that I can at least get the oil in and check for any links... I "could" start the engine, but I'm a little nervous to do it without any exhaust parts (could be loud as hell and I'm not sure what the downside of doing that would be).
Gordon Nichols posted:I have the original MagnaSpark system and I love it. It doesn't have the billet disti housing (mine is a 009) but it has been a great system for the past 17 years. If the new one is an "improvement" over a great first version, then you're gonna LOVE it!
It should be a nice upgrade. Ted had an SVDA distributer mapped to the 1915cc, which I am sure is really good, but I like the MagnaSpark II and the reviews I've read about it...
Gordon Nichols posted:I have the original MagnaSpark system and I love it. It doesn't have the billet disti housing (mine is a 009) but it has been a great system for the past 17 years. If the new one is an "improvement" over a great first version, then you're gonna LOVE it!
+1
I have the most recent edition of this and I love it as well. The first "kit" I bought had a bad coil but with CB's excellent customer service a new one was hand delivered by Pat Downs and I replaced it. Runs most excellent now.
Al's concerns regarding the oil is that typically these engines run with Brad Penn or an oil that is specific to "Flat Tappet" engines such as ours. If you are using modern oil in our non-modern engines they won't have the necessary levels of specific antiwear additives, such as ZDDP, that are critical to flat-tappets. Yet nowhere is this mentioned on the label. You would have to add ZDDP at a ratio necessary for the mount of oil in your engine's system.
If you're just keeping the regular oil in there to stop rust then disregard our concerns and carry on but make sure you have enough ZDDP.
This is why I love this forum! I would not have known all that about the oil.
Any recommendations on "where" to get the appropriate oil?
The oil you see in the pic is for maintenance and I was planning to use it to get the engine up and running. Once it is, I plan to do an oil change and another valve adjustment before installing it in the speedster. I also want to make sure there are no oil leaks too...
You can check the Brad Penn site for dealers or you can order on line from several different retailers.
I have received excellent service and prices for Brad Penn Oil from Speedway Motors in Lincoln, Nebraska. 800/979-0122.
My last order was for 20W50 and I paid $64.99 per case of 12 quarts. Freight was included in the price.
Also, for some light, after-dinner reading, check out a bunch of articles by Charles Navarro at LN Engineering.
This is a good start, based on your prior questions:
http://lnengineering.com/resou...wards-compatibility/
Then go here:
http://lnengineering.com/resou...the-proper-oil-type/
And then read this one:
http://lnengineering.com/resou...article-whats-in-it/
A couple of glasses of a nice Pinot Noir would help with this reading, too.
This is she cheapest retailer I found for Brad penn, and cases ship from manufacturer.
https://autoplicity.com/1110-brad-penn-oil
For the Valvoline line , local O'releys ( in Seattle) haddock been the cheapest... But I am partial to Brad Penn product line.
im my stock VS 1915, I have tried 30w, 10w30,10w40, and 20w50... In Seattle I seem to be r verging back to straight 30w. It requires a longer warm up time, but seems to keep my temps most stable/lower year round.
https://autoplicity.com/1110-brad-penn-oil
btw- your build thread rocks... Can't wait to see your car out on the road.
cheers
Ummmm I'm new here...
How come there is no mention of the amount of beer and pizza consumed thus far during this build?
I'm confused!!
Tebs
Teby S posted:Ummmm I'm new here...
How come there is no mention of the amount of beer and pizza consumed thus far during this build?
I'm confused!!
Tebs
Aside from the wifey and I taking a break since the beginning of the year from drinking... there has been plenty before (I just don't post "those" pics) 
Gordon Nichols posted:Also, for some light, after-dinner reading, check out a bunch of articles by Charles Navarro at LN Engineering.
This is a good start, based on your prior questions:
http://lnengineering.com/resou...wards-compatibility/
Then go here:
http://lnengineering.com/resou...the-proper-oil-type/
And then read this one:
http://lnengineering.com/resou...article-whats-in-it/
A couple of glasses of a nice Pinot Noir would help with this reading, too.
Really great read! Thank you!
Based on everyones thoughts about oil, I should be looking for an oil that has a good/high amount of ZDDP additive. Time to see what is available in my area...
Hopefully this will save you some research- attached data sheets for the three oil manufacturers I have used in my cars. Includes zink levels.
1) Kendall- I have tried 30w. Traditional oil ( not a blend) My favorite and cheapest locally, until I was unable to source it. Manufacturer is even out of stock. Lowest of the three zink levels... But still enough zink and it worked great, kept temps between 180-200 year round, and virtually no leaking. (when the car is cold).
http://petroleumservicecompany...T-1HIGHPERFORMANCEMO(TI)PDS.pdf
2) brad penn- 30w, 40w, 10w30, 10w40
http://www.amref.com/Media/Fil...grade_HP_Oils_PB.pdf
3) Valvoline- 30w ( traditional oil, not a blend), 20w50
http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf
in my experience, I get a little leaking with synthetic blends 2) and 3) ... I have been running 30w, non-synthetic in my basic 1915 without any problems or temperature issues.
happy hunting!
Awesome! Thank you!
In my quick reading/research - I will likely go with Vavoline VR-1 20W-50. It is readily available at my local O'Reily's. Plus, I have some stuff to return and have a coupon.
I would be lost without this forum. You guys rock!
Brad Penn Oil available at Roy Miller Trucking, 3165 Coronado St., Anaheim 92806. It was $60/case, cash and carry, last time I was there. Just off of Kraemer, just N. of the 91.
Teby S posted:Ummmm I'm new here...
How come there is no mention of the amount of beer and pizza consumed thus far during this build?
I'm confused!!
Tebs
What happens in the garage stays in the garage. Sometimes it stays on the garage floor if you don't clean it up fast enough.
*LongFella posted:Based on everyones thoughts about oil, I should be looking for an oil that has a good/high amount of ZDDP additive. Time to see what is available in my area...
I'd check the Brad Penn site and see who sells it in your zip code or within a reasonably close distance. Otherwise you can order it from CB Performance.
According to the Valvoline VR1 data sheet it contains 13% zinc and 12% phosphorus. If I read this right I think the Brad Penn (10w-40w) has 15% zinc and 14% phosphorus so they're pretty close. I believe the Shell Rotella oils, which are formulated for diesel engines, have high zinc/phosphorus levels in them.
FWIW I'm running 10w-40w per CB Perf's recommendation and our weather is pretty close except it gets hotter in the Central Valley than where you're at in SoCal and 10-40w has been fine. No need to run the heavier 20w-50w.
Longfella: Please tell me why you want to run 20w-50 weight oil, rather than something lighter. What is your rationale? Just curious.
Found another great Navarro article for you:
Newbie here:
When My 2110 was built I asked the same question about 20/50
Pat said no way on the 20/50... You are now going to run Brad Penn 10-40 as you break the engine in no need for anything else during or even after that..
Just my suggestion from the professor himself Pat Downs...
Tebs
For those interested, I forgot to add the brad penn monograde oil data sheet.
http://www.amref.com/Media/Fil...grade_HP_Oils_PB.pdf
Enjoy
The current thinking that is gaining acceptance in the VW world (and the automotive world in general, as many manufacturers are now recommending the same oil in their cars year-round) is that the same oil that your car works so well with when it's cold outside is also the right oil at higher temps. If you think of it, even when it's 100'F outside, the temperature parameters that an engine works within hasn't changed. The automotive manufacturers no longer recommend changing oil weight according to the season; they all stipulate using the same oil year round.
The VW engine seems to have been designed for 30 weight oil; at highways speeds the engine is turning anywhere from 2500-4000rpm and oil pressure will normally be in the neighborhood of approximately 10psi per 1,000rpm, which is what most people in the automotive industry consider optimal. The oil cooler bypass is pressure driven (and not run by a thermostat- hey, remember this was originally an economy car!) blocks off the cooler at 48psi, which allows the engine faster warm-ups and also allows oil through the cooler even at these higher rpm's. With heavier oil (eg- 20W-50) you'll get higher pressures at freeway speeds (even when at operating temps) and these higher pressures fool the the system into bypassing oil Past The Cooler, which means the engine will run hotter.
Use the oil with the thinnest initial (or cold) weight you can find. Even 0W-XX oil is too heavy to lubricate properly at start up, as it needs to get up to operating temps to do it's job, but it does it a lot faster than 20W-XX. If the oil you're considering is made in a 5W-30 and a 10W-30 I would use the oil with the lower first #, as it will flow through the bearings, lubricating parts and carrying away heat that little bit sooner. As for worrying about cost, really? You're going to quibble over an extra 30 or even $40 once or twice a year when you have anywhere from 3500 to $8,000 (or more, for a couple guys) invested in an engine?
Gordon Nichols posted:Longfella: Please tell me why you want to run 20w-50 weight oil, rather than something lighter. What is your rationale? Just curious.
Found another great Navarro article for you:
Initial thinking was to help keep engine temps down. I do not plan on running an external oil cooler set-up with the 1915cc.
As always, I am open to be persuaded 
Cost was never a concern
Here is what I have learned:
- A lot of Brad Penn fans
- 5W-30 or 10w-30 or 10w-40
- High Zinc and Phosphate %
- Keep the oil the same year around
- Don't go cheap. Never go cheap.
- Beer. Beer is good. Drink beer. More beer. Beer. Beer. Beer. 