I believe that it already has the record, Tom.
Who says a thread really has to be "about" something anyway?
Gene Berg Ent. has not been the same since Gene died. Dee (Gene's widow and the woman you met) has always been involved, but hasn't been able to keep the place a going concern like it was (as we know by wait times for parts), and, as adults, the boys (Gary, Clyde and Doug) have all had problems fitting in with the company under dad as well as mom. I think Doug may be working there again, but I could be wrong. Both Gary and Clyde run their own shops, and have for a number of years.
I had the pleasure of working directly with Gene when I bought the parts to build my engine.
ALB posted:Gene Berg Ent. has not been the same since Gene died. Dee (Gene's widow and the woman you met) has always been involved, but hasn't been able to keep the place a going concern like it was (as we know by wait times for parts), and, as adults, the boys (Gary, Clyde and Doug) have all had problems fitting in with the company under dad as well as mom. I think Doug may be working there again, but I could be wrong. Both Gary and Clyde run their own shops, and have for a number of years.
She seemed very nice, but I could get a sense of her being a bit overwhelmed. Could be a good opportunity to buy a business if one has an interest... not sure if they would be willing to sell...
what is this...a Seinfeld episode about nothing........no he owns real Porsches....this must be a replica Seinfeld episode about nothing.
Jim Ignacio really likes Chicken Pot Pie!
*LongFella posted:TRP posted:At this point you should look at your throwout bearing and your pressure plate to make sure they are compatible. Get that sorted before Sunday.
Ted
I'm way ahead of you! I wasn't sure how many miles you had on the clutch before, so I bought a new kit (includes a throwout bearing)...
In an attempt to get this back on track... 
Brian, I think that Ted was trying to point out that you need to check the compatibility of the clutch and your trans. I'm sure you know this, but the pressure plate and TO bearing have to be selected based on the style of your transaxle, early style vs later style. Just trying to help.
James
Hey Stan. Back there a page or so you wrote something about there being a difference between stocking parts with serial numbers and parts with no numbers.
Why would it matter?
James posted:*LongFella posted:TRP posted:At this point you should look at your throwout bearing and your pressure plate to make sure they are compatible. Get that sorted before Sunday.
Ted
I'm way ahead of you! I wasn't sure how many miles you had on the clutch before, so I bought a new kit (includes a throwout bearing)...
In an attempt to get this back on track...
Brian, I think that Ted was trying to point out that you need to check the compatibility of the clutch and your trans. I'm sure you know this, but the pressure plate and TO bearing have to be selected based on the style of your transaxle, early style vs later style. Just trying to help.
James
Thank you for "trying" to bring it back on track. @edsnova decided to take the left hand turn... again... 
Yes, I research the transaxle before purchasing the clutch kit. I initial planed to by the throwout bearing, but decided to start with a fresh clutch. This way I can track miles and usage so that I can manage any downstream issues easier. The pics are from my research in ensuring I got the correct throwout bearing based on my transaxle 
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edsnova posted:Hey Stan. Back there a page or so you wrote something about there being a difference between stocking parts with serial numbers and parts with no numbers.
Why would it matter?
I could answer with some shingo based principles... or... keep the thread on point with "JIT" manufacturing... OR elaborate on the correlation between the two... nonetheless, this is beyond the scope of this thread
Yes Brian, you have a late style trans and need the pressure plate/throw out bearing combo on the left of your picture.
Actually either pressure plate will work, just remove the ring from inside the spring fingers.
Back to the scope if this thread...
Wires, wires, wires... I finished the rear wiring after realizing I wasn't given enough wire from VS that would reach their connections...
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Question to the professionals and a bit of a concern I have...
In the pic below, there is a gasket/pad/something right below the large brass hex nut... every time I run the engine and search for leaks... this little gasket thingy... I run my finger over it and see/smell gas...
Is that normal??? I would think it should be dry. I'm a bit concerned having a gasket that is clearly saturated in gas in the engine bay. There are NO other links in the area. All fuel line connections are leak free and dry. Thoughts?
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James posted:Yes Brian, you have a late style trans and need the pressure plate/throw out bearing combo on the left of your picture.
Actually either pressure plate will work, just remove the ring from inside the spring fingers.
Thank you
I picked up a new clutch kit for the late style trans.
PS - I just went to the garage and made sure the throwout bearing fit. LOL! It's been sitting in a box and I haven't gotten to the clutch install yet...
And I know you guys are really concerned about this...
I got my seat belts in the mail today. I will install them tomorrow 
*LongFella posted:Question to the professionals and a bit of a concern I have...
In the pic below, there is a gasket/pad/something right below the large brass hex nut... every time I run the engine and search for leaks... this little gasket thingy... I run my finger over it and see/smell gas...
Is that normal??? I would think it should be dry. I'm a bit concerned having a gasket that is clearly saturated in gas in the engine bay. There are NO other links in the area. All fuel line connections are leak free and dry. Thoughts?
I'm assuming your referring to the carb top to base gasket, it looks as if at one time the left hand side was chiseled off and there are marks on the casting. If this created a burr it would prevent the parallel mating of the two surfaces but looking at the picture it does appear that you have less compression on the left side of the gasket versus the right side. A quarter turn on the screws on that side might stop it or a new gasket is called for and check the mating surfaces.
MikelB posted:*LongFella posted:Question to the professionals and a bit of a concern I have...
In the pic below, there is a gasket/pad/something right below the large brass hex nut... every time I run the engine and search for leaks... this little gasket thingy... I run my finger over it and see/smell gas...
Is that normal??? I would think it should be dry. I'm a bit concerned having a gasket that is clearly saturated in gas in the engine bay. There are NO other links in the area. All fuel line connections are leak free and dry. Thoughts?
I'm assuming your referring to the carb top to base gasket, it looks as if at one time the left hand side was chiseled off and there are marks on the casting. If this created a burr it would prevent the parallel mating of the two surfaces but looking at the picture it does appear that you have less compression on the left side of the gasket versus the right side. A quarter turn on the screws on that side might stop it or a new gasket is called for and check the mating surfaces.
Yes, that is the gasket I am referring too.
Bummer... these carbs were newly/freshly rebuilt by lowbugget too...
I'll give the tightening a try and see of that works. I would expect a freshly rebuilt (all new stuff) carb by lowbugget would not have this type issue... but than again... I'm a noob to all this...
Thanks for the help!
@TRP Was there any jetting difference between the two sets of Kadrons? Or did you just get the same jetting with the lowbugget set they rebuilt for you versus the ones that were originally on the 1915?
*LongFella posted:Question to the professionals and a bit of a concern I have...
In the pic below, there is a gasket/pad/something right below the large brass hex nut... every time I run the engine and search for leaks... this little gasket thingy... I run my finger over it and see/smell gas...
Is that normal??? I would think it should be dry. I'm a bit concerned having a gasket that is clearly saturated in gas in the engine bay. There are NO other links in the area. All fuel line connections are leak free and dry. Thoughts?
I would not tighten those screws too much, Brian, as you can warp the carb top and pull the threads out of the carb body as well. You could try lightly sanding the mating surfaces with sandpaper on a piece of glass to make sure they're both absolutely flat, but I think you're going to find that those gaskets always weep a wee bit after a while. As long as it's not leaking to the point where there's fuel dripping all over the place it won't be a problem.
You could try (very) lightly coating the gaskets with some sort of non-hardening sealer, but be careful what you use, as you don't want any squeezing out into the inside of the carbs and getting stuck in jets or passages. I've heard of guys using hairspray on the paper sump gaskets to keep them from weeping and it works. A conversation with an older mechanic might yeild the right sealer to use.
Part of this problem is the cheap uncoated paper being pawned off as suitable gasket material these days, but part of it (I think) is the design of the carbs themselves. There should be shorter spacing between the screws that hold the top to the carb body, and maybe even more material around the perimeter of the carb top itself so it's more substantial and there's no chance of warpage.
If you try sanding the mating surfaces flat, constantly turn each piece so you're sanding all sides equally, and don't try to take too much off; they both should be pretty flat already and you just want to make sure there's no nicks or burrs. I doubt there will be any actual warpage, but you never know...Al
Sorry, (somewhat new guy) Teby; I just can't fit it all into 2 paragraphs...
Another dos centavos to consider: If the carb didn't weep before Low Budget rebuilt them, then there is probably nothing warped, either base or top cover. It's also unlikely that there is a scratch in either mating surface. Everyone's first reaction is to increase the torque on the screws to see if it stops and, most likely, I would try that, too, but as mentioned, only a 1/4 turn (unless the screws near the leak seem really loose to begin with, then go around and make them all feel the same when you try tightening them - do a diagonal star pattern).
In the end, it's always good to use a new gasket - the one on there might have had a thin spot - who knows? Low Budget might send you one, or you can usually get them from CB. the thicker the better. I'm not a big fan of RTV sealant on that particular gasket, but have been known to use it when all else failed. I think the black stuff is more gasoline resistant.
Sorry, (somewhat new guy) Teby; I just can't fit it all into 2 paragraphs...
In other news, Teby is changing his name and from this day forward he will be known only by the symbol "¶" or to be more exact 2¶.
@Former Member
Gordon Nichols posted:Another dos centavos to consider: If the carb didn't weep before Low Budget rebuilt them, then there is probably nothing warped, either base or top cover, nor is there a probably a scratch in either mating surface. Everyone's first reaction is to increase the torque on the screws to see if it stops and, most likely, I would try that, too, but as mentioned, only a 1/4 turn (unless the screws near the leak seem really loose to begin with, then go around and make them all feel the same when you try tightening them).
In the end, it's always good to use a new gasket - the one on there might have had a thin spot - who knows? Low Budget might send you one, or you can usually get them from CB. the thicker the better.
This set of Kadrons were rebuilt completely and jetted by Lowbugget for the 1915cc. Ted never installed them before selling me the two engines and extra stuff. That is why I was a little concerned to this gas soaked gasket. I assumed if they came from Lowbugget completely rebuilt, it shouldn't be doing that.
I'll attempt to lightly tighten the screw and see if that works. They are not leaking gas... just noticed it was soaked a little. I've got the engine out so I want to make sure everything is addressed before installing it this weekend. AND I did notice a little weep of oil coming from the sand seal... so the first attempt to stop that weep failed...
I have another set of Kadrons Ted used that has about 3000 miles on them (per Ted). I can install them for the time being if the tightening efforts do not work and I still don't feel comfortable having the Lowbugget set in my Speedster.
I know Kadrons are good and all, but I'm really close to just getting a set of webers (or HPMX) and calling it a day...
I wanted to take a selfie, but this was the best I could get...
An absolute HUGE thank you for @MusbJim for ALL the help today. I feel like I have known him for a long time.
Ladies, gentleman, and fellow Madness representatives... I would like to introduce you to Eleanor. I started building her in September 2015, joined SOC soon after, and she finally cruised around with her top down! Thank you ALL on this forum for the help! I am forever thankful
Enough with the Oscar speech. Enjoy the photos and videos 
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Nice ride. Congrats Ray
IaM-Ray posted:Nice ride.
Thank you! Still can't believe I drove her...
Nice project and I've been following your build your skills are right up there ... great work, good vision and choices on your build and you wife will need congratulations as well for pitching in all that time you were in the "man cave" I mean garage
Now take El Guapo's advice ... drive it ...
Now that your finished you can call yourself "Longfella Deeds"
Congratulations, Brian! Nice to see it moving. Don't forget to finish the engine compartment sheetmetal. It will make a world of difference in engine temps and how long it lives. Al
PS- And a big shout out to El Guapo (the most guapo hombre around!) for giving a hand.
And a thought for the day for all you gearheads-
locked/limited... same diff
Ok, don't shoot me; I only stole it from the Samba!
Congrats! Need another driving video !
Excellent.
I love this picture of Brian with that "little kid at the bike shop" look on his face. This guy's been building this car for a year and a half, and he's still in love with it. Lots and lots of people get this far into a project and have just had enough of it (I've been building a house for 12 months-- I'm pretty sick of it).
I love the garage as well-- a car-guy's garage: stack, bench, etc. I know this wasn't your thing when you started, Brian-- but look at you now.
.... and to echo Al, Jim Ignacio coming over to help put the engine in: priceless. El Guapo is the most Guapo hombre in LA.
ALB posted:Congratulations, Brian! Nice to see it moving. Don't forget to finish the engine compartment sheetmetal. It will make a world of difference in engine temps and how long it lives. Al
Thanks! I still have a lot sorting to do...
Here is a list so far:
- Tach gauge works, but is not registering the proper RPM's (it is lagging for some reason?). I set the idle around 800 RPM's, but once installed it's almost 1000 RPM's off. So, 2000 rpms on the tach is actually around 3000... weird...
- Gas gauge is not registering even after Jim and I went and got a full tank
- Oil Temp gauge is not working... but the oil pressure light is working...
- Still need to connect the horns
- Remaining engine tins on the under side
- Car pulls slightly to the left under hard breaking... alignment?
- The seat belts I ordered from SMC are really LONG... so I am going to have the wifey trim it and stitch them back
Also, after putting the first 5 miles on her the suspension has settled really nicely and has that perfect classic stance. It could use about a 1/4" lower in the front, but I plan to put a spare tire and some tools up there... so that should help...
I still can't believe I drove it yesterday... I don't even think I eat at all yesterday either... LOL!
And definitely a HUGE thank you to Jim. He is such a cool guy and his life story is pretty amazing
Alan Merklin posted:Congrats! Need another driving video !
I think the next driving video will be with @MusbJim cruising PCH with his GoPro selfie stick capturing all of us
And for those curious minds...
The issue with the gas soaked carb (upper) gasket was due to very HIGH fuel pressure. The float chamber bowl/area) was getting flooded and saturating the gasket. The engine was running VERY rich...
Once I got the proper fuel pressure (1.75 psi) set, the gaskets aren't showing any signs of saturation.
Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:Excellent.
I love this picture of Brian with that "little kid at the bike shop" look on his face. This guy's been building this car for a year and a half, and he's still in love with it. Lots and lots of people get this far into a project and have just had enough of it (I've been building a house for 12 months-- I'm pretty sick of it).
I love the garage as well-- a car-guy's garage: stack, bench, etc. I know this wasn't your thing when you started, Brian-- but look at you now.
.... and to echo Al, Jim Ignacio coming over to help put the engine in: priceless. El Guapo is the most Guapo hombre in LA.
Thanks, Stan! Jim is definitely the most guapo hombre in LA!
The garage was/is a work in progress. I was joking with Jim that I probably spent just as much on tools as I did on the Speedster... probably not... but it sure felt like it...
Congratulations Brian, job well done. You should be proud.
I just posted this in Bobby's thread, Brian, but a lot of it applies to you as well-
"Guys would slap an extra cooler on a hot running engine, oil temp would come down, they'd declare it a success and drive off, not understanding why the engine died a few thousand miles later (usually stranding them in in the middle of nowhere). Oil temps were down, but the heads (and therefore the rest of the engine) were happily cooking themselves into oblivion. They didn't address the problem- mismatch of the engine combo itself (usually too much compression for what they built), poor install (left out engine sheetmetal) and/or tuning, not enough air intake into the engine compartment, or some combination of the above, and only treated the symptom.
I'm not a huge fan of the DTM, only because there is no provision for the flaps/thermostat assembly. Living in a rather temperate climate, I can see an engine taking a long time to reach proper operating temps for a good part of the year. I think if you seriously address the issues I mentioned above, a doghouse shroud with operating flaps and thermostat would be adequate (you still may need an extra cooler plumbed into the filter lines). Do you have a head temp gauge, and do you recall what cam is in the engine? I ask because 9.5:1 is high for anything not designed to rev to 6500 or more, and the cht will definitively tell you how the engine is running."
As for tools- think of the cost of having the work done vs the small investment in tools, knowledge gained, the bond you're forming with your car (you're getting to know the thing inside and out, and that's a good thing!), and the pride of being able to say you did the majority of the work yourself (oh- I almost forgot- and getting to know all of us!). This is a large part of what owning one of these cars is about. I've recently spent upward of $300 in carbide drill bits, all for the pleasure of drilling holes in hardened transaxle parts, the objects being my Berg 5 will shift smoother and it will be close to 4 speed weight. I can't tell you how many hours I've spent up at a friend's shop (75? 100? 150?) learning how to use a metal lathe, milling table and rotary fixture (a really cool way to index holes in gears!), all to lighten each part touched 10-20%. If I get another 5-10% (usually an extra ounce or 2) off something it's a real thrill. Anal, I know, but I have the time. The thing is, if I'd taken it up to a machine shop it would have cost 2-3 times what I've paid for in drill bits (and I've broken 2- 1/8" ($20 apiece) and 1- 1/4" (about $50) carbide bit- how loud can you yell F*CK!!!!!), I wouldn't have learned anything, and I'd have to float the cost by the wife (yeah, I'm going to spend upwards of $1,000 on non essential machine work- that's a tough one!). And sometime in the near future I will be painting Barry's kitchen as a thank you. Wait 'till my wife finds out that one is a freebie!
And the day you spent with Jim giving you a hand (sounds like a great day to me, and I hope there was beer at the end of it!)- that's what this hobby is all about.
Yoda out (for now, but back you know I will be!)
Your car is stunning.
Do not " stitch" the seat belts at home , take them to a shoe repair shop and get them done with heavy thread and in the correct sewn pattern.