Brian I hope you enjoy many sunny days driving that beautiful car. The single best advice Jim gave me (no I have never met him) was drive it like you stole it. Seriously I am envious of you on the build, it came out simply stunning.
Alan Merklin posted:Do not " stitch" the seat belts at home , take them to a shoe repair shop and get them done with heavy thread and in the correct sewn pattern.
Will do!
Brian, congrats!
It's been a real education watching you work your way through the whole process, one problem at a time.
A lot of decisions, a lot of work, and a lot of making things go together that didn't necessarily want to.
Imagine how many corners you would have had to cut if you needed to get the whole project out the door in just three weeks. I think it's this last thought that should be in the head of anyone watching what you've gone through and themselves merrily rolling down the road in such a project from one of our high-volume builders. There are more than a few of us out here.
For the gauges - if more than one is unresponsive, check the grounds first. And you did remember the grounding strap between the transaxle and the chassis, no? It's a vital link for making many electrical bits behave.
BTW, those fabric sleeves on the Vintage Speed exhaust have been known to melt or worse. They're there as a sort of half-hearted measure to protect the heater hoses that usually end up passing very close to them. But since you don't have heater hoses, you might just as well ditch them.
As for MusbJim, he's a lot like Snapple - made from the best stuff on earth.
Drive carefully, and often!
Sacto Mitch posted:
For the gauges - if more than one is unresponsive, check the grounds first. And you did remember the grounding strap between the transaxle and the chassis, no? It's a vital link for making many electrical bits behave.
Thanks! It has been a huge learning process and this forum was a tremendous help.
The gauges work aside from the oil temp and fuel. I have an email out to Carey at Beck for his thoughts on my wiring and if I did it right. I noticed some differences when looking at the diagram last night. In their PDF document, the "+" for oil temp and fuel are connected together (which I did), but I don't know if they need a keyed 12v power supply. If they do, where is it coming from??? I have power going to the gauge, but it runs the gauge lights. If it does, then I missed that step and need to redo the wiring on that gauge...
Question for the pros:
Here is a pic of the Beck VDO gauge cluster wiring. As you can see, there is only one keyed 12v going to the cluster. My question: for the oil and fuel gauge, it has the two "+" connected to each other... should keyed 12v be going there or is it being pulled from the one keyed 12v spot?
Right now, I just have a small wire connecting the two "+" together. The diagram doesn't say anything about getting a 12v power supply to those spots... but it does have the "+" pic on the gauge itself... does it even need a 12v supply?
Wiring gremlins are the WORST kind...
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Brian,
The temp and fuel gauges need a switched 12v power supply. They can be tied together and powered from a single source. I noticed the same thing on my new VDO gauges, the drawing is a little misleading.
Yes, you need 12v switched at both of those, as well as one at the oil pressure idiot light and at the alternator trouble light. If you have any issues, call me at the shop and I'll put you on the phone with one of my techs. I think you were sent an incomplete version of the drawing... You can jumper those powers from terminal to terminal they don;t need to be unique.
chines1 posted:Yes, you need 12v switched at both of those, as well as one at the oil pressure idiot light and at the alternator trouble light. If you have any issues, call me at the shop and I'll put you on the phone with one of my techs. I think you were sent an incomplete version of the drawing... You can jumper those powers from terminal to terminal they don;t need to be unique.
Carey to the rescue ! ! ! ! Thank you ! ! ! !
I'll get cracking on correcting the wires.
Any thoughts on why the RPM's on the tach seem off? It's a good amount based on what Jim and I noticed while driving. I'm a noob, so it could be right... and I don't have anything to compare it too...
James posted:Brian,
The temp and fuel gauges need a switched 12v power supply. They can be tied together and powered from a single source. I noticed the same thing on my new VDO gauges, the drawing is a little misleading.
Thank you! ! !
Check your dip switch settings on the back of the tach.
James
Just found your e-mail in my SPAM folder and replied. And, yes, my reply to the tach question in your e-mail was the same as James' "check your dip switches". Sounds like your tach is set for 6 cyl and not 4 cyl.
James posted:Check your dip switch settings on the back of the tach.
James
I plan too. I might have looked at it backwards when I initially checked 
Beautiful car. Carey and James beat me to the tach advice.
Enjoy a well-earned ride!
All of this that's going on is the "Sorting Out" we've talked about.
Robert M posted:All of this that's going on is the "Sorting Out" we've talked about.
I hope the "sorting" is limited 
Joe Fortino posted:Brian I hope you enjoy many sunny days driving that beautiful car. The single best advice Jim gave me (no I have never met him) was drive it like you stole it. Seriously I am envious of you on the build, it came out simply stunning.
You know, yours ain't nothin' to sneeze at either. I seem to remember some fawning over a certain car a while ago...
Took the boys (doggies) out last night and couldn't stop starring at her. I may or may not have blown her a kiss... LOL! 
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Ooo.... under the covers. 
Now you need to wrap it all with "Foam Noodles" for protection... string one after another .... just kidding.
IaM-Ray posted:Now you need to wrap it all with "Foam Noodles" for protection... string one after another
Oh it will have foam bumpers! I do have a 21 month old that likes to throw things... LOL!
Is that a "car condom", Robert?
Lane Anderson posted:Is that a "car condom", Robert?
I would say, Yes.". But the inventor of the product calls it a car capsule.
Got some work in last night...
Fixed the Tach. It was set to 6 cylinder. I was almost certain I checked it before installing, but I guess not... LOL!
Oil temp and gas gauge are wired up with a 12v keyed power now. I'll try taking Eleanor out today to test the temp gauge. I might need some more help with te fuel gauge...
When I turn the power on, the gauge moves very little and stops. There is a full tank of gas at the moment. I'll get some miles in and see what the needle does...
What is the part number of the fuel sender you are using?
We have a jig to set sending units, but it can be done "in the field".
Easiest way to adjust without a jig IMHO is to wire the sending unit but leave it unbolted from the tank. Adjust the stops to an accurate full and accurate empty via the stop tabs while watching the gauge. Then hold it in place in the tank and use a rod (coat hanger, etc) to either push it to the bottom or pull it to the top and see if it still matches your accurate full and empty. If not, then bend the float arm until it does without changing the stops...
chines1 posted:What is the part number of the fuel sender you are using?
We have a jig to set sending units, but it can be done "in the field".
Easiest way to adjust without a jig IMHO is to wire the sending unit but leave it unbolted from the tank. Adjust the stops to an accurate full and accurate empty via the stop tabs while watching the gauge. Then hold it in place in the tank and use a rod (coat hanger, etc) to either push it to the bottom or pull it to the top and see if it still matches your accurate full and empty. If not, then bend the float arm until it does without changing the stops...
Not sure of the part number, but I did buy all the sending units with the Beck gauges as a package. I know it is a VDO sending unit, just not sure of the part number...
Initially, I had the ground in the"G" tab and power to the ground tab. When I turned the ignition, it went immediately to full. Realizing I had the wires backwards, I corrected the connections and the needle only moved a little bit and stopped. I'll double check everything again after work.
I've got a full tank and I don't want to undo the sending yet... I'm sure gas will start pouring out!
I can test the Tach and oil temp gauge for now and address the gas gauge once I burn some fuel off
OK, if we sent you the fuel sending unit then it'll work.
chines1 posted:OK, if we sent you the fuel sending unit then it'll work.
This is fefinitely "user" error
I did notice my sending unit "VDO" is upside down, but there is only one way to install this thing based on screw holes...
Maybe the bolts I'm using don't provide a good ground contact point?
I'll tinker with it tonight...
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The bolt pattern is not symmetrical, so it only lines up one way, so that is right. Probably just an adjustment, or like you said, a ground issue.
Looks like your tank has the sending unit in the center of the tank, so it should not be hitting anything physical (Beck tank has sending unit off to one side so you have to make sure the arm is pointed inwards)
chines1 posted:The bolt pattern is not symmetrical, so it only lines up one way, so that is right. Probably just an adjustment, or like you said, a ground issue.
Looks like your tank has the sending unit in the center of the tank, so it should not be hitting anything physical (Beck tank has sending unit off to one side so you have to make sure the arm is pointed inwards)
I was going to mention the fact that on a VS built car the arm that holds the float has to be bent 180 degrees from where it is stock. So if it normally is bent to the left it has to be bent to the right and vice versa. Is it the same way with the Beck unit?
WOW!, I stand in awe Brian, and it really looks good. I really hope it's easier to register in California than it is in Georgia. I have to declare that I drive less than 5k a year, now that I'm old...and I just checked the mileage and I'm a b-i-t over. Also, they kept telling me that since my car was "...assembled from parts..." a scrap car...therefore not allowed to be titled in Georgia.
chines1 posted:
No, the Beck sending unit reads properly out of the box, sans adjustments of the stops for F and E and adjustment of the swing (changes with depth of tank)
I was getting all nervous too
Quick update:
Got the oil temp to work!
Got the tach to work too!
Still failing on the gas gauge...
I used a volt meter to check and make sure I'm getting power. When I check the backside of the gauge where the keyed 12v connects to the "+" at the fuel gauge, it reads ~12.5 when I touch the ground spot too.
When I go to the trunk and test the connection, it only reads 0.03
So, I'm getting power to the gauge but it's dropping off a LOT when it connects to the tank. What should it read at the tank?
I haven't messed with the grounds yet, but could that be my issue?
Brian - sent you PM. 
Can we stop talking about my "rod" it's making me uncomfortable... LOL!!! :d
You will not have 12V+ at the fuel sending unit. The sending unit is a variable resistor that changes the resistance to ground based on the position of the float/wiper assembly. Remove the sending unit, leave it connected to the gauge and ground the mounting flange. Then test the unit by moving the float/wiper to each extreme of its travel and watching the gauge.
You can also check the resistance of the sending unit. IIRC the resistance should be 10 ohms in the "full" position and 75 ohms in the "empty" position. Remove the wires before checking the resistance and test between the tab for the gauge connection and the mounting flange using a multi-meter. I hope this all makes sense and this should point you in the direction of the problem.
James
James posted:You will not have 12V+ at the fuel sending unit. The sending unit is a variable resistor that changes the resistance to ground based on the position of the float/wiper assembly. Remove the sending unit, leave it connected to the gauge and ground the mounting flange. Then test the unit by moving the float/wiper to each extreme of its travel and watching the gauge.
You can also check the resistance of the sending unit. IIRC the resistance should be 10 ohms in the "full" position and 75 ohms in the "empty" position. Remove the wires before checking the resistance and test between the tab for the gauge connection and the mounting flange using a multi-meter. I hope this all makes sense and this should point you in the direction of the problem.
James
I'll definitely need to pull the dictionary out now
Ill give it a shot!