Bubble flares are a pita unless you have a quality ($) tool to do the job, I measure what I need and hit Advance Auto for the brake line lengths
Yeah...VERY nice work on your pan!!
Really, the only brake line length on the car that isn't a stock length at the auto parts store is that loooong one going from the MC to the rear "T". That's unique to VW, but is a custom length on our cars - if you use the stock length, you'll be 11" too long.
Very easy to get around that with a residual valve in the middle at a convenient place to then use a couple of shorter, stock lengths.
I, too, sprung big $$$ for a bubble flaring tool. Worked great on two cars, then I let some jackass borrow it and it came back useless. Live and learn.... It's a LOT easier, all around, to just use stock lengths, even if you have to order them online.
Gordon,
I can't find a listing for "residual Valve"
If I understand correctly such a valve is a splice connector to shorten the stock brake line?
Carl,
A residual valve leaves pressure on the brake slave cylinder or caliper, so that you don't need to pump your brakes when you first apply them. It keeps the pads close (or skimming) the rotor.
Stan's right, although I've not heard of them being used on disk calipers - only on drum slave cylinders. Lord knows, there's a lot of stuff being done out that that I'm not aware of.... I always use a 10 pound version and that seems to work well on our disk/drum setups.
Carl wrote: "If I understand correctly such a valve is a splice connector to shorten the stock brake line?"
No - they do what Stan outlined, but the valve is a metal cylinder about 2"-3" long so, rather than running that single, long, hard-to-find brake line from the master cylinder back to the rear line "T", you use a shorter line from the MC to the residual valve, then another short-ish line to fit from the valve to the "T". Much easier than finding a single the right length, plus you get better stopping power.
CIP1 has them:
Gordon, sometimes a 2 lb. valve is used on discs when the MC is lower than the caliper. My master is lower than all 4 calipers, and I'm pretty sure there is a residual valve in each chamber of the dual circuit master. No valves needed on my Airkewld setup.
Got'cha....Thanks!
Need some thoughts...
I am going to run these in the rear. This will mount to the rear disc caliper... can anyone tell me what bolt I need for the banjo/circular end that bolts to the caliper???
Here is the part:
http://www.socalautoparts.com/...inless-steel-p-16641
Rather then custom make a hard brake line, I am going to run this ss line...
I'll use this to connect the two ss lines:
http://store.fedhillusa.com/um133.aspx
Scroll down through this link to get an idea of what I am planning:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/for...47&view=previous
Thanks in advance for the help!
Got some work done this morning while the girls were sleeping. Finished up the rear disc brake kit and used some SS lines and banjo fittings. I found this easier then making hard brake lines. Turned out pretty nice!
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...and I finally got the title to my VIN. It will help when I pick up my vintage (black) plates from the DMV I ordered 
Well, I finally got a chance to bleed the brakes and some of the fittings I made are leaking a bit. FML! Time to look all the hard lines over and see if I need to re-do the flares... maybe Santa will bring me a nice $200 flare making kit... hmmm...
Any thoughts about getting a built long block and building the engine from there???
Keeping in mind I don't have larges amounts of money to drop on an engine... hence the piecing of this build slowly... darn 7 month old baby girl is eating a lot more and taking speedster funds... Haha!
Alan Merklin (Dr. Clock) just bought a long lock from somewhere for his current build. You might ask where he got his.
You know, sometimes the fingers just get behind a little.
While Dr. Clock could certainly benefit from some long Locks, what he recently bought is a long Block engine.
If it isn't "spell check" then the fingers and teeny-tiny pseudo-keys get you - it's always something.........
Wish I had my IBM Selectric back.........At least it sounded cool.
I use to like my high end ( w/ spell check ........Word Processor!
And to think, only a few years ago (okay, maybe a little more) I typed out my 250 page Ph.D. thesis on a portable typewriter that I had rented for that purpose. I could have used one of those new fangled word processors...
How times change...and sometimes for the better. 
I once had an antique (circa 1947) Remington portable sitting in my office, just for those "young kids" who hadn't ever seen one. Started using a computer running either "EDIT" or LINEDIT" in 1969 and never looked back.
I'll add a 'Postscript' to the demise of the ink ribbon typewriter:
Thirty years ago the greater New Haven Connecticut Yellow Pages had over twenty "Typewriter Repair / Service" listings...Ten years ago there were two listings...today there's none.
Bob, if you would have used the new word pro they would have asked you for 1000 pages
Whoa. That would have been four times the BS!
Any thoughts on a PowerHaus 1915cc longblock?
Would it be better to keep the 90 bore or go to 94?
Go 94's; displacement is everything. While people will tell you the 94's don't last as long, in a car that only sees a few thousand miles a year it's not an issue. What color is your car going to be?
ALB posted:Go 94's; displacement is everything. While people will tell you the 94's don't last as long, in a car that only sees a few thousand miles a year it's not an issue. What color is your car going to be?
Thanks for the tip!
As of now, it will be paint #5707 (Aquamarine Blue). I'm going to try and be true to the 1957 look. Plus, my wifey likes the solid colors on an older car
Here's a perfect example of the look I'm aiming for:
http://www.id10.co.uk/developm...che-356-a-speedster/
I would like like the door trim and seat material to be a little darker brown. Mine won't be an exact match to a 1957, but I'll try to keep it as close as I can...
Does anyone know what that second stalk is for on the steering column of the '57 Longfella just posted?
Hi / lo beam flasher???
It's not tilt wheel :~)
Wipers?
I believe it might be the high beam switch. I read some literature (granted online) and everything pointed to that...
I did find a company that will be able to make that particular steering wheel. Not sure what they charge, but I plan to reach out once I get to that point.
*LongFella posted:ALB posted:Go 94's; displacement is everything. While people will tell you the 94's don't last as long, in a car that only sees a few thousand miles a year it's not an issue. What color is your car going to be?
Thanks for the tip!
As of now, it will be paint #5707 (Aquamarine Blue). I'm going to try and be true to the 1957 look. Plus, my wifey likes the solid colors on an older car
Here's a perfect example of the look I'm aiming for:
http://www.id10.co.uk/developm...che-356-a-speedster/
I would like like the door trim and seat material to be a little darker brown. Mine won't be an exact match to a 1957, but I'll try to keep it as close as I can...
Ever so slightly toned down and just on the teal/turquoise side; love the color, Brian! If I was doing a car from scratch, aquamarine blue would definitely be a candidate. Don't worry about the interior not being an exact match; we (and everyone else that ever comes in contact with the car) will love it. And with the chrome 5x205 wheels it's gonna be killer!
Al
I am really excited how everything is coming along even though there have been a few curse words and thrown shop towels...
Got a little more work done! I fubricated part of my flaring kit and created a better brace to hold the hard line. Worked out perfectly and nothing is leaking! I also started the additional interior sealing and sound deadening
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Nice to see the progress! One step at a time (sometimes two forward, one back) will get you there.
Finished the additional sealing and sound deadening! I also used some of the sound deadening stuff as tape to hold the hard line close to the chassis.
Got a few little steps and then it will be time for the body/paint to be mounted at Kirk's shop. I'm still torn on what approach I'll take with the engine...
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"I'm still torn on what approach I'll take with the engine..."
What's to decide? Are you going to putt around with a 1600 so the thing's just slightly faster than a stock beetle?
Go Big!!!
You do want the thing to be fun, right?
It will definitely be at least a 1915cc.
I'm trying to decide if I want to start with a short block, lone block, or buy a turn key. I like the idea of building it myself as it will add to the personal value of this build. I've built an engine starting with a long block before, but have no experience starting with just a case...
Unless you have the calipers and micrometers to make sure everything is right (or you really want to buy them and do it for the experience), do a long block (so the compression and valve geometry are right) or a turn key.
And I'll say it again- a 1915 ain't bad, but my advice is-
Go Bigger!!!!!!!!
A 2165 or 2276, with a cam/rocker combo to go to 6,000rpm (and 1/2" valve lift) and ported 40x35 heads would be so much fun!
I'm also looking for longevity
I think a solid 1915cc with a reinforced/welded case and good internals will be sufficient for my intended use. Bigger is always better and I love more power, but I've got a really fun daily driver that I got to go 0-60 in 3.87 secs
I have a CB 2054 with a matched Rancho trans that's coming out of my Beck this winter. The engine has about 20K miles & the trans 3K.
I'm going Suby and looking for a good home for my engine. You won't get a better deal on an engine this size.
*LongFella posted:Finished the additional sealing and sound deadening! I also used some of the sound deadening stuff as tape to hold the hard line close to the chassis.
Got a few little steps and then it will be time for the body/paint to be mounted at Kirk's shop. I'm still torn on what approach I'll take with the engine...
Looks good.
One question for some of the other members.
Using the sound deadening material on the seal surface for the body effect the height of the body on the pan or do you think it won't seal properly.
MY thought is not to put the body seal over without a bead of silicone or chalking? Or remove the sound material and just use the rubber seal with sealant ?
Anthony posted:*LongFella posted:Finished the additional sealing and sound deadening! I also used some of the sound deadening stuff as tape to hold the hard line close to the chassis.
Got a few little steps and then it will be time for the body/paint to be mounted at Kirk's shop. I'm still torn on what approach I'll take with the engine...
Looks good.
One question for some of the other members.
Using the sound deadening material on the seal surface for the body effect the height of the body on the pan or do you think it won't seal properly.
MY thought is not to put the body seal over without a bead of silicone or chalking? Or remove the sound material and just use the rubber seal with sealant ?
The sealant/sound deadening I used is very thin. I'll also put the rubber body seal around the edges. Once everything is tightened down, I'm sure it will be fine. Plus, the material has a tar light substance so it will act like a sealant once you tighten all the nuts/bolts down...