Skip to main content

Got some more miles in this afternoon. Couldn't stop starring at her

As mentioned before, tach is working nicely and I was able to get the idle set nicely. The oil temp gauge is working. After a solid hour of driving, the needle held steady just past the halfway point and right before 3/4's. And this is without the engine being completely sealed. I plan to do that this weekend, but I couldn't help taking her out since today was beautiful temp-wise.

No oil leaks seem present, aside from the sand seal issue that apparently I didn't fix... I have two small drops of oil on the ground after the driving today which I can live with for now...

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_8383
James posted:

You will not have 12V+ at the fuel sending unit.  The sending unit is a variable resistor that changes the resistance to ground based on the position of the float/wiper assembly.  Remove the sending unit, leave it connected to the gauge and ground the mounting flange.  Then test the unit by moving the float/wiper to each extreme of its travel and watching the gauge.

You can also check the resistance of the sending unit.  IIRC the resistance should be 10 ohms in the "full" position and 75 ohms in the "empty" position.  Remove the wires before checking the resistance and test between the tab for the gauge connection and the mounting flange using a multi-meter.  I hope this all makes sense and this should point you in the direction of the problem.

James

I did an ohm test with my multimeter...

When the ignition is on and the gauge is getting keyed 12v power, the ohm reading was around 53. I had the multimeter set to the 2000 ohm position (if that helps) and I know I have at least a 3/4 tank (if not more). I've only put 15 miles since fill up.

The gauge did not move at all during the test.

Thoughts?

Did you remove the sending unit?  It sounds like the unit is reading in reverse (you may need to bend the rod 180 degrees as someone mentioned above), or the float is hanging on something or stuck.

You will have to remove the sending unit and watch what happens while you manually actuate it through its full stroke.  Also you need to determine if the max/min stroke of the float closely coincides with the full/empty fuel location in the tank.

*LongFella posted:

Out of curiosity, I connected the sending unit wire to the ground spot and the ground to the sending unit spot one the back of the gauge. Result: The needle finally moved on the gauge itself to what looks like the amount I would have IF the gauge was reversed. That is the first time I have seen the darn needle move too... weird...

This is good info.  Maybe wires are crossed somewhere?  Trace your wires one more time.   Sounds like something is reversed.  If that is not the problem, I still think you are going to have to pull it and put your eyes on things to figure it out.  

James

James posted:
*LongFella posted:

Out of curiosity, I connected the sending unit wire to the ground spot and the ground to the sending unit spot one the back of the gauge. Result: The needle finally moved on the gauge itself to what looks like the amount I would have IF the gauge was reversed. That is the first time I have seen the darn needle move too... weird...

This is good info.  Maybe wires are crossed somewhere?  Trace your wires one more time.   Sounds like something is reversed.  If that is not the problem, I still think you are going to have to pull it and put your eyes on things to figure it out.  

James

I'm going to tinker with it more this morning before the girls get up, but I double-checked ALL the wiring and it is going to the proper spot. The fuel gauge/sender is one of the easiest to wire... fuel sender wire tab to gauge ("G"), keyed 12v power (+), ground ("Antenna symbol")... LOL! 

Update:

I pulled the sending unit out and tested the ohm range. Here are the results:

Fuel Sending Unit out AND connected to the gauges (reading was taken on the gas tank end of the wiring):

- 9.9 ohms when arm is in the full position (no gauge needle movement)

- 104.3 ohms when arm is in the empty position (no gauge needle movement)

Next

Fuel Sending Unit out and NOT connected to the gauges (reading was taken from the gauge wire ends):

- 9.9 ohms when the arm is in the full position (still no gauge needle movement)

- 104.4 ohms when arm is in the empty position (still no gauge needle movement)

Reinstalled the fuel sending unit in tank and took readings at the tank end:

- 20.5 ohms (which is about right considering I'm almost at a full tank (still no gauge needle movement)

Reinstalled the fuel sending unit in tank and took readings at the gauge end:

- 85.8 ohms (which is absolutely perplexing me at the moment)... It's like the gauge flipped what is actually being sent to it... I might have messed this reading up somehow but I did it three times with the same result Is that even possible???

Conclusion: It appears the fuel sending unit is working and providing the gauge the correct reading. Everything is grounded correctly. All the wiring traced is correctly attached, but I am still NOT getting any needle movement.

My gut is telling me there is an issue with the gauge itself. If the gauge is getting the proper power and correct ohm signal... why isn't it working?

Anybody else have any thoughts or ideas before I ask Carey at Beck to replace the gauge???

IaM-Ray posted:

The other day I did a dry run and tested my Sub Woofer with built in Amp on my bench so to speak, before installing it in the car... discovered the harness was defective... believe it or not the ground source was defective right in the harness itself.  Not sure if I am helping... Just saying...Ray

It helps. Just leads me to believe my gut about the gauge being defected (specific to the fuel gauge piece) is accurate.

Everything else is working on the gauge though...

*LongFella posted:
IaM-Ray posted:

The other day I did a dry run and tested my Sub Woofer with built in Amp on my bench so to speak, before installing it in the car... discovered the harness was defective... believe it or not the ground source was defective right in the harness itself.  Not sure if I am helping... Just saying...Ray

It helps. Just leads me to believe my gut about the gauge being defected (specific to the fuel gauge piece) is accurate.

Everything else is working on the gauge though...

Even the best made stuff can have a defective piece every now and then. If you have the right numbers at the sending unit and the right numbers at the end of the wires immediately before the gauge but no reading on the gauge then it's probably the gauge.

Robert M posted:
*LongFella posted:
IaM-Ray posted:

The other day I did a dry run and tested my Sub Woofer with built in Amp on my bench so to speak, before installing it in the car... discovered the harness was defective... believe it or not the ground source was defective right in the harness itself.  Not sure if I am helping... Just saying...Ray

It helps. Just leads me to believe my gut about the gauge being defected (specific to the fuel gauge piece) is accurate.

Everything else is working on the gauge though...

Even the best made stuff can have a defective piece every now and then. If you have the right numbers at the sending unit and the right numbers at the end of the wires immediately before the gauge but no reading on the gauge then it's probably the gauge.

I can't think of any other reason why it is not working other then the gauge itself...

I'll send a note to Carey at Beck and see what we can do. I'm hoping he can simply send out a new combo gauge and I'll return the one I have. I don't mind covering overnight shipping either. I really don't want to deal with warranty stuff and being out a gauge for several weeks...

Just A thought, based on my experience with vdo gauges original and repo + senders in 2015.

- gauge and sender need to be matched/ calibrated to read correctly.

- my replica gauges where calibrated to read empty at 10ohm, full at 75ohm.  The VDO sender installed (provided by VS when they build the car) was the same 10ohm empty, 75ohm full.  All was good at the beginning.

- when I installed original/ refurbished 356 gauges everything read backwards... Turns out Gauge was calibrated to 75ohm empty, 5ohm full ( it's what Palo Alto/VDO typically does unless they are told otherwise or you ask them to match it to a specific sender when restoring the gauges ).

- Harmut who had rebuilt my gauges suggested I either bend the float shaft 180deg of  my exhisting sender to reverse the empty/full or replace sender.... As it would be much cheaper to replace than shipping to CA and re-calibrating the original gauges.

so I searched the Internet, contacted VDO and bingo... I was educated, and I now have two senders that have the SAME VDO part number but have inverted calibrations....  How you may ask?... Modern manufacturing inconsistencies?

1) ---vdo sender: 221012- 75ohm empty- 10ohm full

https://www.summitracing.com/p...anner=MobileSwitchNo

1) -vdo sender: 221012- 10ohm empty- 75ohm full... ( actually the unit I received bench tested at 65ohm full... But close enough.)

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductD...Code=VDO%2D221%2D012

cant explain the inconsistency... I actually ordered both after both shops confirmed they did their own bench testing.... And then I tested my self.  Shure enough same part number opposite resistance ranges.   Probably built in different Chinese manufacturing plants ;-)

The engineer in me wanted to make sense of it... But I could not.... But it fixed my problem for under 30$.

also... Be careful when testing your gauge... A few seconds of power on the bench and you can fry the electronics.   Ask me how I know ?

good luck

Reading though my old notes.... Closest explanation I could come up with back then was that manufacturers when making these closes could have confused VDO p/n 224-222 and 221-012.  Same fit/look/design ... But per an old VDO brochure I found 224-222 was originally sold as 10ohm empty- 65ohm full, vs 221-012 at 75ohm empty- 10ohm  full...  Who knows... Just thinki about it is bringing up the feelings of frustration I experienced until I resolved this problem back in 2015.....

time for a drive... The clouds have parted,mthe sun is out, it's almost 50f in Seattle.  Just the excuse I needed to drive 25 miles to grab a coffee.

BTW-  the work you have done is amazing!

cheers

Great advise! And I remember reading about the various fuel senders and ohm rating when starting down this rabbit hole...

Keep in mind, I had the fuel sending unit out and tested both full and empty (so the range of ohm reading) and the gauge needle was NOT moving at all. I even tested the sending unit at the halfway point and got no movement. Wouldn't I get some needle movement???

A few posts back, Carey mentioned not needing to bend the fuel sender and that everything should line up. So... I'm going to have to connect with Carey and figure out how to replace the gauge...

Sorry for the confusion... Thought the problem was the gauge reading opposite to the sender readings.

for the 2 months it took me to sort things out, I just drove and used an old school wood ruler to gauge how much gas I had in the tank before drives ;-)..... 

wishing you miles and smiles of happy driving...  Best part is sharing the ride with our little mechanicsimage

cheers

Attachments

Images (1)
  • image
*LongFella posted:

.....

Reinstalled the fuel sending unit in tank and took readings at the tank end:

- 20.5 ohms (which is about right considering I'm almost at a full tank (still no gauge needle movement)

Reinstalled the fuel sending unit in tank and took readings at the gauge end:

- 85.8 ohms (which is absolutely perplexing me at the moment)... It's like the gauge flipped what is actually being sent to it... I might have messed this reading up somehow but I did it three times with the same result Is that even possible???

......

 

Could it be a problem with the wiring between the sending unit and the gauge?  You got two different readings, doing the same test.  Was the gauge connected?   

Check the ohms at the sending unit and at the gauge connections, with the gauge disconnected.  The readings should be the same.   If not, check the wiring and connectors very closely.  

But it does appear you are narrowing it down to a gauge problem.  

James

Lfepardo posted:

Sorry for the confusion... Thought the problem was the gauge reading opposite to the sender readings.

for the 2 months it took me to sort things out, I just drove and used an old school wood ruler to gauge how much gas I had in the tank before drives ;-)..... 

wishing you miles and smiles of happy driving...  Best part is sharing the ride with our little mechanics

cheers

Great photo! I just got back from a quick cruise along PCH and my daughter heard me come home... immediately ran to the garage and wanted to sit and drive (Goofy was with us too)

James posted:
*LongFella posted:

.....

Reinstalled the fuel sending unit in tank and took readings at the tank end:

- 20.5 ohms (which is about right considering I'm almost at a full tank (still no gauge needle movement)

Reinstalled the fuel sending unit in tank and took readings at the gauge end:

- 85.8 ohms (which is absolutely perplexing me at the moment)... It's like the gauge flipped what is actually being sent to it... I might have messed this reading up somehow but I did it three times with the same result Is that even possible???

......

 

Could it be a problem with the wiring between the sending unit and the gauge?  You got two different readings, doing the same test.  Was the gauge connected?   

Check the ohms at the sending unit and at the gauge connections, with the gauge disconnected.  The readings should be the same.   If not, check the wiring and connectors very closely.  

But it does appear you are narrowing it down to a gauge problem.  

James

I'm going to do another round of tests tonight. I burned a little more fuel today cruising through Laguna Beach on PCH

Question: Does the ground wire from the fuel sending unit need to be the same ground wire that is connected to the back of the gauge?

Edit: I should note... Currently, the ground wire from the fuel sender is attached on the steering box ground. The fuel sender wire si directly connected to the gauge. The keyed 12v power is coming from the wiper unit/switch.

I have tested the keyed 12v power and the gas gauge is getting 12.7v

If it is not the gauge... I could have been sent a fuel sender that was NOT pre-setup as Carey noted early... that is possible too...

I'll do another round of tests tonight/early tomorrow morning...

I WILL FIGURE THIS OUT ! ! ! 

Last edited by *LongFella
*LongFella posted:

Question: Does the ground wire from the fuel sending unit need to be the same ground wire that is connected to the back of the gauge?

Edit: I should note... Currently, the ground wire from the fuel sender is attached on the steering box ground. The fuel sender wire si directly connected to the gauge. The keyed 12v power is coming from the wiper unit/switch.

I have tested the keyed 12v power and the gas gauge is getting 12.7v

If it is not the gauge... I could have been sent a fuel sender that was NOT pre-setup as Carey noted early... that is possible too...

I'll do another round of tests tonight/early tomorrow morning...

I WILL FIGURE THIS OUT ! ! ! 

I appreciate the fact that you haven't quit yet. Perserverance is the key and you seem to have a lot of it. You'll get this. BTW, Carey is at the Porsche Lit show in LA this weekend so you won't be able to talk to him until next week. 

Robert M posted:
*LongFella posted:

Question: Does the ground wire from the fuel sending unit need to be the same ground wire that is connected to the back of the gauge?

Edit: I should note... Currently, the ground wire from the fuel sender is attached on the steering box ground. The fuel sender wire si directly connected to the gauge. The keyed 12v power is coming from the wiper unit/switch.

I have tested the keyed 12v power and the gas gauge is getting 12.7v

If it is not the gauge... I could have been sent a fuel sender that was NOT pre-setup as Carey noted early... that is possible too...

I'll do another round of tests tonight/early tomorrow morning...

I WILL FIGURE THIS OUT ! ! ! 

I appreciate the fact that you haven't quit yet. Perserverance is the key and you seem to have a lot of it. You'll get this. BTW, Carey is at the Porsche Lit show in LA this weekend so you won't be able to talk to him until next week. 

If I knew Carey was here in LA, I would have made a point to say hi!!!!

Perseverance, to me, is a small piece in the passionate persuit of perfection. I know I'll never achieve perfection. I will always enjoy the journey.

This entire build was an unspoken dream. It took a life changing experience to realize it needed to start. It had to start. It started and I know I'm far from finished. Why? Because I will always enjoy the journey

Ok. This just confuses the piss out of me...

Here are some pics I took. The first is when the keyed power is off and the gauge is in the full position (4.8). The second is with the keyed power on and the gauge is in the full position (53.7). Why does the ohms jump SO much??? I also noticed with the keyed power on,  the gauge range is huge (10-200+)...

The ground off the fuel sender is mounted to the steering box ground.

I did get the gauge needle to move once I found the correct ohm reading. It only moved slightly (last pic).

Maybe it is the sending unit???

Attachments

Images (3)
  • IMG_8398
  • IMG_8399
  • IMG_8396
Last edited by *LongFella

I see a wire connected to your gauge. I have no idea how you have this wired, but you can't check resistance with power supplied. Back in the pre-digital days, that was a sure way to fry a very expensive multimeter, now it just messes with the readings. Take the wires off and check the resistance from the shell of the sender to the tab at various places in the arc of the float.

If it checks OK, I'd get a potentiometer from Radio Shack, wire it as you would the gauge (variable resistance to ground), and see what the gauge does.

Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:

I see a wire connected to your gauge. I have no idea how you have this wired, but you can't check resistance with power supplied. Back in the pre-digital days, that was a sure way to fry a very expensive multimeter, now it just messes with the readings. Take the wires off and check the resistance from the shell of the sender to the tab at various places in the arc of the float.

If it checks OK, I'd get a potentiometer from Radio Shack, wire it as you would the gauge (variable resistance to ground), and see what the gauge does.

The wire connected is goring straight to the gauge in the "G" location.

When the keyed 12v power is not on, the gauge reads it proper ohms. 10 to 75 (roughly).

It is when the power is turned on the gauge readings is a LOT higher Way behind the range the fuel gauge is set to (the 10 to 75 range).

Readings are the same at the gauge and fuel sending unit when the power is off AND when the power is keyed on.

Does that make sense?

If the combo gauge was built for this fuel sender, why is this so complicated? It's TWO wires!!?!?!? And a keyed 12v power source... 

What is the ground on the steering box?  Is that where the battery negative post is connected to the chassis?   (I hope not).  

Yes, the different test meter readings you're getting key off and key on make sense, but they're also going to continue to confuse you.  As Stan said, if you continue to check resistence at the sender with the key turned on you will either continue to be confused or blow out your test meter.  For a lot of electrical reasons, you will not get an accurate test meter reading if the key is turned on.  

That said, here is how to properly test your sender/gauge operation:

1.   Remove the sender from the tank.

2.  Get a 12 gauge wire 4' - 5' long.  Connect one end firmly to a screw on the sender.  Use a flat washer and nut so that the connection is tight.  

3.  Connect the other end of that same wire to the same ground point that the gauge uses, up under the dash.  

4.  Connect the sender wire to the tab terminal of the sender.  Make sure that this wire color is the same as the sender wire going to the "-" terminal of the gauge.  (I suspect that this wire has a connector in it somewhere between the sender and the gauge, but we'll get to that in a minute).

5.  With the key on, measure the voltage at the "+" tab on the back of the gauge.  It should be the same voltage as measuring between the battery posts.  If not, you have a problem between your battery and the gauge.

6.  With the key on, move the float arm from one stop on the sender to the other.  The gauge needle should follow your movement.  If it does not, try shorting the "-" tab on the gauge to the gauge ground.  If the gauge needle does not move, then the gauge is defective.

7.  If the needle moves when the "-" tab on the gauge is grounded, the gauge is fine and you either have a bad sender ground at the steering box, a high resistence in the sender wire going to the gauge (because it goes through a resistive connector of some sort) or the sender is defective.  Personally, I would never ground anything via the steering box as the (painted) box is held to the (painted) chassis via clamps and the electrical contact is poor.   It is far better to attach the battery ground to a bolt directly to the chassis - same thing for the sender ground.  

So that should keep you busy for a few days as I'm going off the grid for a week.  Play around with those suggestions and I'll check back in next weekend.  Hopefully, by then you'll have it working.  Good Luck!

Gordon Nichols posted:

What is the ground on the steering box?  Is that where the battery negative post is connected to the chassis?   (I hope not).  

Yes, the different test meter readings you're getting key off and key on make sense, but they're also going to continue to confuse you.  As Stan said, if you continue to check resistence at the sender with the key turned on you will either continue to be confused or blow out your test meter.  For a lot of electrical reasons, you will not get an accurate test meter reading if the key is turned on.  

That said, here is how to properly test your sender/gauge operation:

1.   Remove the sender from the tank.

2.  Get a 12 gauge wire 4' - 5' long.  Connect one end firmly to a screw on the sender.  Use a flat washer and nut so that the connection is tight.  

3.  Connect the other end of that same wire to the same ground point that the gauge uses, up under the dash.  

4.  Connect the sender wire to the tab terminal of the sender.  Make sure that this wire color is the same as the sender wire going to the "-" terminal of the gauge.  (I suspect that this wire has a connector in it somewhere between the sender and the gauge, but we'll get to that in a minute).

5.  With the key on, measure the voltage at the "+" tab on the back of the gauge.  It should be the same voltage as measuring between the battery posts.  If not, you have a problem between your battery and the gauge.

6.  With the key on, move the float arm from one stop on the sender to the other.  The gauge needle should follow your movement.  If it does not, try shorting the "-" tab on the gauge to the gauge ground.  If the gauge needle does not move, then the gauge is defective.

7.  If the needle moves when the "-" tab on the gauge is grounded, the gauge is fine and you either have a bad sender ground at the steering box, a high resistence in the sender wire going to the gauge (because it goes through a resistive connector of some sort) or the sender is defective.  Personally, I would never ground anything via the steering box as the (painted) box is held to the (painted) chassis via clamps and the electrical contact is poor.   It is far better to attach the battery ground to a bolt directly to the chassis - same thing for the sender ground.  

So that should keep you busy for a few days as I'm going off the grid for a week.  Play around with those suggestions and I'll check back in next weekend.  Hopefully, by then you'll have it working.  Good Luck!

Sounds like I have a few more tests to do

My main ground is not on the steering box. There is a ground to the steering box, per VS's wiring diagram, and that is where I connected the fuel sending unit ground to. I asked earlier if the fuel sending unit ground needed to be the same wire that is connected to the guage unit ground, but I didn't get a response...

Maybe I'm not seeing all the inter-webs of wiring, but I can't seem to grasped why it's this complicated. Everything else is grounded and works. Lights work. Wipers work. High beams works. Reverse lights work. Everything works. Oil pressure and oil temp work. So, they all have grounds, power, and work. I've yet to blow a fuse (which may or may not be relevant)!

Errrrrrr...

Ok, I'm back above the line now. Back to work trying to figure this out!!!

 

Brian, our best and brightest have given you some good advice, but you may still be a little confused.

Auto electrics aren't all that hard to understand, it's just hard to explain these things clearly in writing to someone who is new to this. If you saw a good tech doing these tests in front of you, it would probably make more sense.

I'll have a go at muddying the waters even more.

To test the electrical resistance of any device with an ohmeter, that device must be disconnected from everything else - including external sources of voltage. You can't test the resistance of the sender with it's contacts hooked up to ANY other wires but the leads from the ohmeter. UNPLUG the wires that connect the sender to the gauge and THEN test the sender's resistance. Any readings you take with the car's wires still plugged into the sender will be meaningless, as will readings with the key turned on.

Just ask Stan, who has probably toasted at least one Simpson 260 in his day.

And just to confuse things even more, here's something else to try. To test THE GAUGE, while you have its wires disconnected from the sender, try putting a few resistors across those wires (one resistor at a time), turning on the key, and checking the gauge. Since you say the sender's normal resistance range is about 10 to 80 ohms, individual resistors of (about) 10 ohms, (about) 80 ohms, and a few values in between would be appropriate. The gauge should then show about full, about empty, and a few values in between (for each of the other resistors).

I guess this last bit makes the big assumption that you happen to have some resistors lying around the garage or even that you can find a RadioShack in your neighborhood that's still in business.

Old farts like me do tend to dwell in the past a bit too much.

 

Last edited by Sacto Mitch

Ground everything to the pan, including the battery.  The steering box is a really bad place to try to ground because of the issues Gordon mentioned above.

Your ground connections are very important, especially on this gauge bc you are using resistance to ground as your reference to determine the position of the float.  Make all ground connections solid to the pan or a common grounding bus bar that is firmly connected to the pan and the negative of the battery.  When attaching wiring lugs to the pan, use a toothed washer between the lug and the pan in order to "bite" into the metal and make a good connection.

Also, check any connections in the wiring between the sending unit and the gauge.  If there is a splice or connector in the wiring, you may have an issue with a bad connection at that point. 

Important - As mentioned above, do not check resistance (ohms) with the gauge powered.  You can kill your multi-meter.

Very important - that is fuel in the tank!!  No sparks!  Be extra careful, that stuff is extremely flammable! 

Above all - don't give up - you are getting close! 

Sacto Mitch posted:

 Just ask Stan, who has probably toasted at least one Simpson 260 in his day. 

Fortunately, I apprenticed at the dawn of the digital multi-meter age. All the journeymen were still using Simpson meters, but I had a $350 solid-state meter with a seperate amp-clamp. The worst that would happen when I tested resistance with voltage applied was a blown fuse in the meter. Granted, it was a special $12 fuse, but it wasn't a new meter.

I shutter to think what it would have cost me had I been buying a Simpson 260 every time I messed up.

Apprentices today have no idea how good they have it. A Fluke 323 does everything a field tech could ever need for $115. The meter can be set to anything (including resistance), have 600v applied, and just shrug it off. Every time I hear about the "good 'ol days", I think back to those guys and their $300 meters (about $1200 in today's money).

 

For Brian:

I sense your frustration. But once you figure this out, lots more things will be clear to you. I'm going to try again to explain, but as Mitch pointed out-- some stuff is just better conveyed by watching.

1) Electricity always seeks a ground. That's how every electrical "load" works. It doesn't matter if it's a 12 vdc gas gauge, or a 1000 hp 480v/3p chiller. We push power through a "load" towards ground, and the "load" does work.

2) Every electrical device (that you care about, anyhow) is either a switch or a load. In this circuit, the gauge is the load, and the sender is the switch.

3) The sender in this case is a variable switch in the ground side of the circuit. It partially completes the circuit to ground, depending on the position of the float.

4) The gauge in this circuit is the load (electricity does some work-- in this case it moves the needle). Power is applied to the gauge any time the key is on: 12 vdc, all the time. The needle moves because the power is seeking a ground. The amount it moves depends on how much of a ground it finds, because the switch (the sender) completes the circuit variably. 

5) You've proved that the switch is fine by checking resistance with the wires disconnected. I think the gauge is probably fine because it moves around. There are three wires in this circuit, not two: power to the gauge, a wire to the sender (which is really a ground to complete the gauge circuit), and a wire from the sender to ground. The reason everybody keeps talking about a ground is because the circuit is completed when the sender creates a variable circuit to ground. No good ground, no good circuit.

That's all I've got. Good luck.

Last edited by Stan Galat

I will give everything another test run tonight and tomorrow night. In the meantime, I still have some more stuff to work on and that might help clear my mind of this electrical stuff for a bit 

I'm going to try using a separate ground wire that goes directly to the main ground on the pan to test. I have some splices on my ground wires at the gauges that @James mentioned could be an issue too...

Nobody answered the question: When the keyed power is on, the ohm reading is VERY high... why?

Shouldn't the ohm reading stay the same and be in the range for the gauge to properly place the needle where it needs to be based on the float position? The ohm reading goes extremely high and out of the range of the gauge 0-75 ohms...

The question could have been answered - I might have missed it... 

Add Reply

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×