I should make some for our pedals, black rubber is so boring! Like these: http://www.coolfoot.biz/products-page/hotfoot-hotpad/
IaM-Ray posted:Brian, I find that I need to use a battery conditioner and a deep charge Optima battery in my car because there is always a bit of drain with my accessories and after a few weeks of sitting I end up with no power locks to open the doors and never mind trying to start the car it's a no go either.
It's really suttle but you might want to keep that in mind I have been caught with a dead battery a lot with my A/Cooled IM.
With a new build you might not have that issue as the alternator/regulator should be new and the battery should be charging but you might try checking the battery connections (mine were loose last week) to make sure everything is good and tight. Including the alternator belt. Just saying.
More experienced guys might need to chime in.
Enjoy your ride it looks real nice.
Ray
I'll check all the connections again. Probably a good idea after the first long shake-down cruise.
The battery was fully charged prior to departing the house. I didn't need to turn the engine off and on many times throughout the cruise and I don't have a lot (if any) accessaries.
Just odd the battery would be that low if the alternator was properly doing its job...
I put the multimeter to it and see what I find. I learned how to use one when I was problem solving the fuel gauge 
What a treat to meet some SOC's in the canyon. The day I take a run is the day I left my camera at home; won't be doing that again
. This was a great moment in my day; great to finally meet you Jim and Brian. I did not realize we live close enough to chat and do a weekend cruise. 
RAVE ON!! Just so sweet . . .
Michael B (aka bluespeedster SoCal) posted:What a treat to meet some SOC's in the canyon. The day I take a run is the day I left my camera at home; won't be doing that again
Head on over for the West Coast Cruise June 9-11 and meet some more of the crew.
Robert M- I have really thrown this around in my head to meet the west coast SOC guys.
Michael B (aka bluespeedster SoCal) posted:Robert M- I have really thrown this around in my head to meet the west coast SOC guys.
Join the cruise! It was by chance you, El Guapo, and I met. Why not join the caravan heading up north?
On that note, I'm almost 99.9% I'll be there 
No new update on the build.... I'm just DRIVING IT ! ! ! ! !
Drive Eleanor this morning to work (since it is beautiful out today - sorry east coast folks) and had the top up for the first time. I'm surprised how well it keeps the cold air out! I did have my driver side curtain out and passenger side in. You guys were right, visibility is a little challenging with the top up!
I also decided to pull the VOM out and test the alternator...
Results:
Reading at the battery (with car off) was 12.8v
Reading at the battery (with car on) was 12.6v
Reading at the alternator (with the car on) was 12.6v
Conclusion: Doesn't look like this Bosch alternator I got with the 1915cc is working...
I do have another one from the 1600cc motor. I'll swop them out and see if the other one works.
Is there a test I can do without the alternator installed to see if it is working properly?
Yes, but YOU can't do it. Take it to a place that rebuilds alternators or starters (they are out there - ask at the local NAPA). They connect it to a machine that can both spin the alternator to make juice and provide a load (Big Honkin' resistor) to see how hard it can work. After they test it the gnarly, tattooed testing guy will look at you through a cloud of cigarette smoke, squint one eye and say: "It's Good."
Or maybe not.....
How many RPM's when car is running, yielding 12.6V?
Art, CMC, 1641cc posted:How many RPM's when car is running, yielding 12.6V?
15 min warm-up and it was idling; roughly 800 RPMs. No lights or wipers were on.
I'm trying to diagnose why my battery was at 70% after a 2.5 hr cruise over the weekend with El Guapo.
I don't know what deficiency I have, but at idle I'm only 12.6v when I bring it up to 1500+ rpm gets 14.1V
So I am happy with that.
This post contains no alternative facts.
Art, CMC, 1641cc posted:I don't know what deficiency I have, but at idle I'm only 12.6v when I bring it up to 1500+ rpm gets 14.1V
So I am happy with that.
This post contains no alternative facts.
I'll give it another round of testing when I get home. Thanks!
The alternator in the 1915 is pretty new. Check my build thread to see when i put it in. I replaced it because the one that's on the 1600 was giving me fits. The 1915 has a balanced and welded fan, correct? Check the nut on the 1600 alternator before you use it. I broke it all down to have it tested. After I bought the on the 1915 I rebuilt the one on the 1600 with a new diode pack.
That alternator charges at 55amps/3000rpm. It's not uncommon to see the alternator light flicker at idle. I would have your wife hold the rpm at 3k and test it at the battery and AGAIN at the alternator.
Are you getting both idiots lights to light up when you turn the key to 'on'? If the alternator light doesn't work it won't charge.
Problem with replacement parts these days. If the alternator did not come in a Bosch box there is a 99% chance it's from the other side of the world. I seen many new alternators fail shortly after installing them. also if you have a high output alternator such as a 60 or 75 amp unit they do not charge at idle. your idiot light will stay on until engine revs past 1800 rpms. once the light goes out it's charging and may stay out at idle around 900-1000 but it's not charging like a stock 55 amp unit will. that old saying ---buyer be ware! is very true today in the replacement parts for any car.
TRP posted:The alternator in the 1915 is pretty new. Check my build thread to see when i put it in. I replaced it because the one that's on the 1600 was giving me fits. The 1915 has a balanced and welded fan, correct? Check the nut on the 1600 alternator before you use it. I broke it all down to have it tested. After I bought the on the 1915 I rebuilt the one on the 1600 with a new diode pack.
That alternator charges at 55amps/3000rpm. It's not uncommon to see the alternator light flicker at idle. I would have your wife hold the rpm at 3k and test it at the battery and AGAIN at the alternator.
Are you getting both idiots lights to light up when you turn the key to 'on'? If the alternator light doesn't work it won't charge.
Now that I think about it, I believe I am only getting the oil idiot light on when the key is switch to on (no engine start). I'll run outside and check to see if I get both lights...
Edit: I'll also check my wiring too...
Anthony posted:Problem with replacement parts these days. If the alternator did not come in a Bosch box there is a 99% chance it's from the other side of the world. I seen many new alternators fail shortly after installing them. also if you have a high output alternator such as a 60 or 75 amp unit they do not charge at idle. your idiot light will stay on until engine revs past 1800 rpms. once the light goes out it's charging and may stay out at idle around 900-1000 but it's not charging like a stock 55 amp unit will. that old saying ---buyer be ware! is very true today in the replacement parts for any car.
Worse case scenario, I buy a new Bosch alternator (priced on Amazon from Bosch was $155.xx with free two day shipping)...
TRP posted:That alternator charges at 55amps/3000rpm. It's not uncommon to see the alternator light flicker at idle. I would have your wife hold the rpm at 3k and test it at the battery and AGAIN at the alternator.
I try not to exceed 3K rpm when driving - would that slow the re-charging of the battery down and not go as quick?
Ok... Alt light does not go on when I turn the key to the "on" position...
I'll do a deeper dive when I get home...
It could be wired wrong...
You all know my issues with wiring... LOL! 
Okay, so... I found your problem.
Step 1 - check the bulb.
Step 2 - check to make sure the wire to the bulb gets power when you turn the key to 'on'
Step 3 - Check that the gauge body is grounded
Step 4 - Stop and drink a beer
Step 5 - This is where I usually sit back and have another beer
Step 6 - Search this site for alternator charging trouble shooting tips
Step 7 - Repeat steps 4 - 6 as necessary
I think I might repeat steps 4 and 5 several times before proceeding...
"I try not to exceed 3K rpm when driving"
Why, in Heaven's name, would you do THAT?
At 3K, you're only just getting into the engine's power band. Operating the engine below, or at the bottom of, the power range means that the engine is working harder than it was designed to do.
It's perfectly OK (and preferable, actually) to shift around 4K and generally keep th revs up between 2,800 and 4,000 rpm. The engine is designed for that (and then some) - I bet your Tach might even show a green band (operating range) between those two points. And I hope you're not running the engine below 2,500 Rpm under any circumstance. It won't kill it down there, but it won't like it, either. You ain't driving a wide-torque-band Subaru, there. Drive it like you stole it.
...you could always go with a generator like me, then your charging light will always be on, brighter at night when headlamps are on...
...and yes, steps 4 and 5 are recommended for any work on these beasts!
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A healthy alternator will show a voltage of 14 - 14.5 volts at idle - and certainly by 1500 rpm, in any case.
A healthy Speedster driver will want beer at idle - and certainly by 5 pm, in any case.
Sacto Mitch posted:
A healthy alternator will show a voltage of 14 - 14.5 volts at idle - and certainly by 1500 rpm, in any case.
A healthy Speedster driver will want beer at idle - and certainly by 5 pm, in any case.
...and it's certainly 5 o'clock somewhere...
That would be 5PM GMT?
Will Hesch posted:...you could always go with a generator like me, then your charging light will always be on, brighter at night when headlamps are on...
...and yes, steps 4 and 5 are recommended for any work on these beasts!
You had to tease me with that photo?!?! Errr...
I absolutely LOVE your engine!
FIXED! It's 5 o'clock, right??
One benefit I'm realizing about this Speedster is that fact that I built it and know just about every millimeter of her. I got home, looked under the dash at the gauges, knowing every bit of wire under there... and... yup... I wired it wrong. Maybe I was thinking, it's a light bulb, it needs a ground... clearly I did NOT read the wiring diagram... maybe I had too many beers or Jameson's??? Lesson learned!
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That Jameson's will get you every time.
I used to visit my company's executive briefing center in Cork, Ireland, and we would sometimes take customers to the Jameson distillery in Cork (Midleton) as a little tour/sampling before dinner on the Quay. Spent a lot of memorable evenings with Conigne and his staff at the distillery. GREAT visits!
Brian- is that a jell pack battery under your front deck lid?
Michael B (aka bluespeedster SoCal) posted:Brian- is that a jell pack battery under your front deck lid?
Odyssey PC680 with the proper terminals. I ordered it from West Coast Batteries. Great guys to chat with and very quick shipping. Cost was around $160 for everything.
The bracket was aluminum, but I painted it to match the interior (same paint I used for the shifter, steering column, etc...). I wanted some of the interior color in the frunk since I had exterior and underside colors in there. Plus, I plan to have a spare tire and I wanted enough room to fit it...
Gordon Nichols posted:That Jameson's will get you every time.
I used to visit my company's executive briefing center in Cork, Ireland, and we would sometimes take customers to the Jameson distillery in Cork (Midleton) as a little tour/sampling before dinner on the Quay. Spent a lot of memorable evenings with Conigne and his staff at the distillery. GREAT visits!
I haven't been to Cork, but I have stumbled around Dublin. I did the "mini" Jameson tour at the original site. Heaven.
I also remember the taste of nitro filled Guinness at the factory. Amazing! It doesn't taste the same here in the US 
TRP posted:Okay, so... I found your problem.
Step 1 - check the bulb.
Step 2 - check to make sure the wire to the bulb gets power when you turn the key to 'on'
Step 3 - Check that the gauge body is grounded
Step 4 - Stop and drink a beer
Step 5 - This is where I usually sit back and have another beer
Step 6 - Search this site for alternator charging trouble shooting tips
Step 7 - Repeat steps 4 - 6 as necessary
It was Step 2...
You are one cool dude Ted. Most people would sell stuff and NEVER be around for questions and offer help.
I sincerely appreciate your help and being around to make sure the engine is running right. I'm looking forward to having some pints with you during the SLO meet up
Coming home from work yesterday and the little one was outside waiting to catch a ride around the neighborhood. My wifey took this photo and after putting it in b&w, it has kind of an old vintage 60's look. Natalie LOVE's riding in the Speedster!
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Cute photo!
Hey - do you want wipers for that thing? I have a few extra sets of arms here that I'm not using. 1 set - from a bug. They need new blades. The other set is a complete set from Sierra Madre for an early car with slip on blades. They are complete.
http://www.sierramadrecollecti...6A-50-58-p25082.html
PM me if you're interested.
TRP posted:Cute photo!
Hey - do you want wipers for that thing? I have a few extra sets of arms here that I'm not using. 1 set - from a bug. They need new blades. The other set is a complete set from Sierra Madre for an early car with slip on blades. They are complete.
http://www.sierramadrecollecti...6A-50-58-p25082.htmlPM me if you're interested.
The SMC ones are the ones I actually want to use!! I'll take them!
I have the bug (black) ones, but they don't look right or fit the build I'm going for.
I'll shoot you a PM now
You're in trouble when she gets her driver's licence, Brian! you'll never see your car again. And you'll have to beat the boys off with a very big stick...
Gordon Nichols posted:"I try not to exceed 3K rpm when driving"
Why, in Heaven's name, would you do THAT?
At 3K, you're only just getting into the engine's power band. Operating the engine below, or at the bottom of, the power range means that the engine is working harder than it was designed to do.
It's perfectly OK (and preferable, actually) to shift around 4K and generally keep th revs up between 2,800 and 4,000 rpm. The engine is designed for that (and then some) - I bet your Tach might even show a green band (operating range) between those two points. And I hope you're not running the engine below 2,500 Rpm under any circumstance. It won't kill it down there, but it won't like it, either. You ain't driving a wide-torque-band Subaru, there. Drive it like you stole it.
I have to agree with Gordon! For regular driving, shift most of the time at around 3500 rpm, and 2500-3500 (and occasionally to 4,000 or a little more rpm!
) will be your normal powerband. When you're pushing it a little, then the boundaries change- (If I remember correctly, dual carbs and W110 cam, right?) then it should be good for 5,000 or 5500rpm. You don't want to drive it like that all the time (it won't last nearly as long if you do) but you can drive it like you stole it a little bit (after all, that's why it's there! As Stan said, it does say Speedster on the side of it, you know).
In the lower gears the acceptable powerband is a little different- with stock gearing, shifting from 1st at 3500 puts you at about 1900rpm in 2nd, and 3500 in 2nd gives about 2200rpm in 3rd. You can use those rpm's in the appropriate gears with some qualifications- it's ok to cruise around at the appropriate lower rpm's at part throttle or normal acceleration, as the engine isn't developing a lot of heat when you're on the idle circuits of the carburetors (or the engine is accelerating quickly), but as soon as you've got your foot far enough into it looking for more power that the carbs are on the main circuits, now you have to pay more attention. If (at any time) you've got your foot to the floor (or close to it) and the car is barely accelerating (or not accelerating at all) then the engine is probably making more heat than it can get rid of and it's time to drop it a gear. It's called 'lugging it' and I was taught (by a friend who knew more about VW's than I did) that 'lugging it' on a regular basis was early death for the engine. In this situation a cylinder head temp gauge will warn you almost immediately, while the oil is going to take a minute or so before it aborbs enough heat to let the gauge let you know it's suddenly getting alarmingly hot. It becomes somewhat intuitive after a while (if you're paying attention). Even in 4th you can fudge the 2500rpm rule a little bit while cruising, but only at light throttle settings!
With bigger engines (with larger inherent torque bands) you have a little more leeway, but the same rules apply- at lower rpms, any time the car is barely accelerating (or not accelerating at all) then the engine is probably making more heat than it can get rid of and it's time to drop it a gear. (Hopefully) you can see why having the appropriate gauges can be so useful (and valuable). Al