f you're running a PC-680 Odyssey battery, I would suggest running a trickle charger on it whenever you're not using the car. That was recommended by my battery guy, too. I have a connector under the dash that I just plug the charger (a Schlumberger, from Walmart) into whenever it's going to be sitting for a few days or more and it is always topped off and works great.
Brian, sorry to throw that tempting photo in your way...(sort of sorry)
I really think El Guapo has the right idea though...a stock or smaller (1700-1800) engine that runs forever, gets killer mileage (mine gets 19mpg, sad!) and never overheats.
I know you're Jonesing for a big engine, I was too, when I built mine, and I do love it (power up the kazooski) but it was a ton of work (not that you don't know about that!) and sometimes I wonder if I should've just put a stock 1600 in her.
I have to say, and I think everyone on this forum agrees, your journey has been a breath of fresh air. Your enthusiasm is contagious and has reminded us all of why and how we got to this crazy place.
Keep loving the journey and we'll keep giving you tons of useful and useless advice.
Will
Surfer Will wrote: "a stock or smaller (1700-1800) engine that runs forever, gets killer mileage (mine gets 19mpg, sad!) and never overheats."
You know, there's a lot to be said for that........
I wanted a 2,110 because, well....... It's a 2,110, right? Best of all possible worlds!
Well, my son, bless his heart, had a 680hp Mitsubishi Eclipse that, after Lane anderson rode in it, we had to shampoo his seat the next day. Don't know what we would have had to do if Chris really got on it, ya know? But Lane had to head back to his hotel that night, so Chris took it easy on him.
But I built a 2,110. It was nice. I bought it as a newly built-up long block because I was working too much and traveling too much and didn't have the time to build one. It ran for 15 minutes before it seized. Improperly installed #4 crank bearing. Sigh.......
So then, it became this (I only used the WD-40 as a vegetable preservative, honest!):
And later on, after a few different iterations, it became this and has been a good motor evah since. 26-ish mpg, lots of power (piddly, compared to the Eclipse, but I doubt Lane will be riding in it) and imminently drive-able - - - And loud enough to scare the Bejeezus out of people at stoplights:
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Will Hesch posted:...I really think El Guapo has the right idea though...a stock or smaller (1700-1800) engine that runs forever, gets killer mileage (mine gets 19mpg, sad!) and never overheats.
I know you're Jonesing for a big engine, I was too, when I built mine, and I do love it (power up the kazooski) but it was a ton of work (not that you don't know about that!) and sometimes I wonder if I should've just put a stock 1600 in her.
???A stock 1600???Really???Now where's the fun in that???
Remember, it does say Speedster on the side of the thing, you know (President Stan told us that...)
Seriously, Will, if you're only getting 19mpg, you haven't played with the jetting enough, the combo's mismatched, or (just maybe?) you're having too much fun driving it
(afterall, it does say Speedster on the side of the thing, you know)
PS- Gordon- what camshaft/rockers are in it?
Budget 1641 for reliability 24 -25 plus mpg, stays cool and scoots along just fine: AS41 case if available / balance the crank, flywheel & rods as an assembly. A stock flywheel ( yes stock) a must is mild ported heads / 1:25:1 rockers / Engle 110 cam / stock cooler in 36 HP shroud / quality 009 dizzy with electronic ignition & Bosch coil. Weber 32 -36 Weber Progressive 2 bbl (set it once and forget it) Hideaway Hi Flow flow exhaust. 80 -83 HP and will give you enough power to run the interstates and easily pull hills .
Whadaya mean you doubt I'll be riding in it? I've driven Pearl, remember?
Alan, that sounds like a nice engine. I went in the other direction:-)
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"Gordon- what camshaft/rockers are in it?"
That iteration has an Engle 120 with a set of CB 1:25 rockers. That's a nice combination to go with the 044 heads - everything flows really nicely from the Dell 40's to the Berg extractor. This might be the Spring to go for a quieter pair of mufflers than the Berg, but I don't know what I might try instead. I'm thinking almost stock 356 quiet, or maybe Carrera quiet on acceleration, but then the carbs will probably become loud once they're no longer masked by the exhaust note.
On a point that Alan made about the flywheel. I went with a severely lightened (9 pound) flywheel way back when. The engine winds up really fast. Trouble is, I don't think there's enough spinning mass to fully smooth out the power pulses, so it has always seemed a bit vibratie, if you know what I mean. Not a lot, just a little like grinding up walnuts at certain speeds/frequencies - NOT cool for anyone mildly OCD, but I've learned to ignore it (sort of). Maybe a 9-pound flywheel AND a Berg harmonic balancer would be perfect to make things silky smooth, but $200 Samolians for a Berg pulley is beyond a bit much when there's $8 bucks of material and 30 minutes of CNC time involved.
But maybe they save them up and do a run of 10 every three years?
Gordon Nichols posted:f you're running a PC-680 Odyssey battery, I would suggest running a trickle charger on it whenever you're not using the car. That was recommended by my battery guy, too. I have a connector under the dash that I just plug the charger (a Schlumberger, from Walmart) into whenever it's going to be sitting for a few days or more and it is always topped off and works great.
I always run a trickle charger when it sits in the garage 
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ALB posted:Gordon Nichols posted:"I try not to exceed 3K rpm when driving"
Why, in Heaven's name, would you do THAT?
At 3K, you're only just getting into the engine's power band. Operating the engine below, or at the bottom of, the power range means that the engine is working harder than it was designed to do.
It's perfectly OK (and preferable, actually) to shift around 4K and generally keep th revs up between 2,800 and 4,000 rpm. The engine is designed for that (and then some) - I bet your Tach might even show a green band (operating range) between those two points. And I hope you're not running the engine below 2,500 Rpm under any circumstance. It won't kill it down there, but it won't like it, either. You ain't driving a wide-torque-band Subaru, there. Drive it like you stole it.
I have to agree with Gordon! For regular driving, shift most of the time at around 3500 rpm, and 2500-3500 (and occasionally to 4,000 or a little more rpm!
).
In the lower gears the acceptable powerband is a little different- with stock gearing, shifting from 1st at 3500 puts you at about 1900rpm in 2nd, and 3500 in 2nd gives about 2200rpm in 3rd. You can use those rpm's in the appropriate gears with some qualifications- it's ok to cruise around at the appropriate lower rpm's at part throttle or normal acceleration, as the engine isn't developing a lot of heat when you're on the idle circuits of the carburetors (or the engine is accelerating quickly), but as soon as you've got your foot far enough into it looking for more power that the carbs are on the main circuits, now you have to pay more attention. If (at any time) you've got your foot to the floor (or close to it) and the car is barely accelerating (or not accelerating at all) then the engine is probably making more heat than it can get rid of and it's time to drop it a gear. It's called 'lugging it' and I was taught (by a friend who knew more about VW's than I did) that 'lugging it' on a regular basis was early death for the engine. In this situation a cylinder head temp gauge will warn you almost immediately, while the oil is going to take a minute or so before it aborbs enough heat to let the gauge let you know it's suddenly getting alarmingly hot. It becomes somewhat intuitive after a while (if you're paying attention). Even in 4th you can fudge the 2500rpm rule a little bit while cruising, but only at light throttle settings!
With bigger engines (with larger inherent torque bands) you have a little more leeway, but the same rules apply- at lower rpms, any time the car is barely accelerating (or not accelerating at all) then the engine is probably making more heat than it can get rid of and it's time to drop it a gear. (Hopefully) you can see why having the appropriate gauges can be so useful (and valuable). Al
This should be a permanent sticky. Great advice for the novice flat 4 beetle engine driver!
Yes, the 1915cc has a Engle 110 and 40x35.5 heads, dual valve springs, solid rocker shafts with swivel feet adjusters, scat balance 69mm crank, and some other stuff... It's a pretty solid 1915cc, jut has a little weep from the sand seal. I drove to and from work Friday and didn't have a drop on the ground 
In regards to the RPM - It is more of ME being scared sh@#less driving it for the first few times. I get all nervous hand shaking stomach turning when I get done with a drive. I then become OCD and check everything out after the drive. I'm sure this will pass and I will be utilizing the capability of this engine a little better
As for an engine, I have this sitting in my garage I am still debating on what to do...
AS41 case that has it's first align bore (020). Std thrust. I bored the pistons to 90.5mm and cleaned the top deck. Case was completely cleaned inside and out (will need it again since it has been sitting). I heads are stock German VW Heads that were cleaned and checked and also bored to a 90.5mm. The crank is OEM German VW that only needed a polish. Stock rockers, stock valves and valve springs. Valve guides are still good. Stock OEM crank, distributer drive gears and cam gears are all good. There's some other stuff in there too... This could turn into a really solid 1776 or 1835 - at least that is what I had in my head original. Something that has great power, no heat issues, and solid reliability...
I too get torn between a BIG cc engine or keep it simple 
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My vote is for the 1776. Keep it simple.
"Lugging" is the slight shuddering you feel/hear when operating a Boxer engine below 2,500 rpm. Yes, some of them can go down there without issues (like the Subaru Boxer) but our engine version really can sustain damage if operated a lot below 2,500 (and especially 2,000) in any gear. As Al mentioned, it's OK to poke along at 2,300 in 4'th on a level or slight downgrade as long as you're not asking for much power - just floating along. get your foot in it at that rpm and the engine has to work really hard to accelerate - not what it was designed to do.
In the old days of the infamous 4-cam Porsche engine, the early engine crankshaft had special roller bearings on the crankshaft, rather than the solid, Babbet bearings we have today. They did that to reduce bearing friction for faster acceleration and higher top end. No Porsche mechanic or driver would ever run that engine in the lugging zone because the power pulses would beat the roller bearings to a pulp - literally, in minutes. Of course, the 4-cam engine ran like crap below 4,000 RPM because of all of the slop in the camshaft drivetrains and the cam-mounted dual distributors, so getting below 3K was not an issue. Porsche factory people would regularly scream around at 4 grand or higher because that's what you did with those engines! It's a lot like going to a racetrack and seeing a full-blown race car trying to navigate the pits and garages - Race cars really don't like going slowly!
*LongFella posted:As for an engine, I have this sitting in my garage I am still debating on what to do...
AS41 case that has it's first align bore (020). Std thrust. I bored the pistons to 90.5mm and cleaned the top deck. Case was completely cleaned inside and out (will need it again since it has been sitting). I heads are stock German VW Heads that were cleaned and checked and also bored to a 90.5mm. The crank is OEM German VW that only needed a polish. Stock rockers, stock valves and valve springs. Valve guides are still good. Stock OEM crank, distributer drive gears and cam gears are all good. There's some other stuff in there too... This could turn into a really solid 1776 or 1835 - at least that is what I had in my head original. Something that has great power, no heat issues, and solid reliability...
I too get torn between a BIG cc engine or keep it simple
When it comes to motor combos, the 1776 is a good combo. As for lugging motors and vibrations you may need to purchase a counterweight 69 mm crank for your 1776. Then if you have to buy a crank you might as well go big! When building motors for customers I always suggest balancing the assembly and include a lighten flywheel but not much since that mass helps when pulling a grade along with running smoother. The berg achiever pulls is also a good add on.
I don't know why you guys are scared of bigger engines! While the initial build may be a little more involved (depending on the combination), if it's done properly a mild 2 literish engine won't be any more problematic than a dual carbed 1600. Yes, if you go big enough an extra oil cooler may be necessary and you'll have to address the air intake issue into the engine compartment as the engine is bigger, producing more waste heat and there's a finer line between being in it's happy place and acting like an overheating, temper tantrum-throwing bitch, but it's something that needs to be addressed no matter engine size, and once you've figured it all out there really shouldn't be any issues. A short rod 74mm stroke engine will be really close to stock 1600 width, produce significantly more torque, and if the combo (heads, carbs, exhaust, cam, c.r) is built to a 5500 or 6,000rpm redline it should be no more trouble or difficult to maintain than a similar revving 69mm combo. Even a mild VW length rod, 82 mm engine won't be any harder to build or take care of, as long as all the parts are matched and you keep it within it's proper operating parameters.
Longfella wrote:
"In regards to the RPM - It is more of ME being scared sh@#less driving it for the first few times. I get all nervous hand shaking stomach turning when I get done with a drive. I then become OCD and check everything out after the drive. I'm sure this will pass and I will be utilizing the capability of this engine a little better "
Most of us have been there, too. Thinking something horrible is going to happen with your new engine - but it rarely does...
I had a 2110cc CB engine with dual 44IDE, it worked well for 5 years and outside of minor carb adjustment and manifold gasket it gave me no problems and is now being enjoyed by another ... I found that to be a real nice engine but now I have a new love in my subie 2.5L & it's torque band.
Yup, but I think we ALL have been quite timid with our little pets the first few times out. Each time, you go just a little bit farther as you build confidence. Carl Berry was like that - quite timid, until I convinced him to drive his VS to Carlisle as part of the Northeast Caravan. He did, it died about 2 hours from the hotel (absolutely NOT his fault) and he got towed in. To say he was both nervous and crestfallen is an understatement. But the next morning a small group of people led by Al Merklin and Al's childhood mechanic buddy (who was visiting) descended upon Carl's car and fixed it as good as new. He was far less afraid to drive it after that.
A long time ago, I was timid of longer distances, too, but have stretched things so that distance doesn't matter any more. The few times that something happened out there I fixed it at least good enough to get home. My brother was the same way, just with snowmobiles. He had a small trailer/sled he hauled behind his sled, with practically a whole machine shop in there with a lot of spare parts. He almost never used that stuff on his own sled, but helped get a lot of fellow sledders going after they had broken down, 50 miles from no where. I'll never forget getting a cell phone call from him when we were in South Carolina for the winter; Him: "Hey! Guess where I am!"
Me: "I don't know.....Where the hell are ya?"
Him: "I'm in f-ing LABRADOR! We came up on the sleds! Took Three Days! It's friggin' AWESOME here!"
Ya gotta be a little loopy to do stuff like that............
I went to check on Eleanor last night... I've got a LOT more little oil drops coming from all sorts of places 
It's not dumping oil, but it has to be a sign the engine is in need of some love...
I'll get a few more miles in to enjoy the beautiful weather this weekend, but it will be time to drop the motor and figure out what to do (rebuild, new build, etc.)...
Anybody got an engine sitting around????????
Oh, boy, we get to plan an engine! (one of my favorite topics!) Of course you realize, Brian, you've probably been here long enough that you already know what we're going to try to talk you into... (and after that it's 5 speed here we come!!!! I do love spending other people's money!)
ALB posted:Oh, boy, we get to plan an engine! (one of my favorite topics!) Of course you realize, Brian, you've probably been here long enough that you already know what we're going to try to talk you into...
I've been returning to all previous posts from you and others about engines
In all likelihood, I will work with Greg at Vintage Motorcars. I've enjoyed his honesty and trust his support if any issues come up. He's been a good ear for me and has always been brutally honest.
So the first decision to make: Rebuild the 1915cc by reconditioning the existing internals (if they can be), rebuild the 1915cc with new internals, turn the 1915cc into a 94x78 2165cc with new internals. I'm hoping the heads don't need any work. This is ALL assuming the 1915cc engine case is still good - I don't believe it has a lot of miles on it - I could do without that darn sand seal though. Everything would be balanced too.
I'll need to price it all out, but I'm assuming the cost will be less then building from scratch. If it's not, I will build from scratch.
I'll sell what I don't use (including the other engine case and heads I have sitting in my garage). Both Kadrons will be sold and a few other things I have laying around...
I have no idea what any of the specs are on the 1915cc I have in my VS. No clue (or concern) as to bore, valve size, cam, carburetor jetting, or any of that stuff. I get in the car, turn the ignition key, and GO! 
Whatever horsepower this engine is generating is anyone's guess (the thought never crosses my mind). Whatever the HP is, it seems to get me where I'm going with enough zip to have fun. MPG???
As for drips of oil, sometimes that's just the 'cost of doing business' with an AC VW. I simply observe the oil pan I leave under the car as I LEAVE THE GARAGE FOR A DRIVE!
Stuff I worry about;
1. I hope there's a decent burger joint somewhere along the route I'm driving.
2. Did I leave the oven on when I left the house?
3. What will I spend the money on, that I don't spend on the Speedster?
I'm just saying....
I always love your thinking @MusbJim 
@MusbJim that's great advice. I love how you think.
I think you missed one think.... now let me think about it.... what did I forget ..ummm..
There is something to be said for your way of thinking, Jim (I constantly leave the house and then wunder if I've left the oven on as well), but a stroker crank for just a bit more displacement (and more bottom end/lower midrange torque) as that's where we spend so much time driving, and now it's getting big enough that you could add some big valve heads for more upper midrange/top end fun without losing the lower half of the torque band, and a bit more compression as it's now cammed a little higher, and don't forget it now needs bigger carbs and an exhaust and...
PS- Jim said- "What will I spend the money on, that I don't spend on the Speedster?"
Remember, Jim, a very wise man once said, "I spent most of my money on cars, booze and women; the rest I wasted". Since most of us are married and we can't drink too much and still drive (and get away with it), that leaves our Speedsters...
*LongFella posted:In all likelihood, I will work with Greg at Vintage Motorcars. I've enjoyed his honesty and trust his support if any issues come up. He's been a good ear for me and has always been brutally honest.
So the first decision to make: Rebuild the 1915cc by reconditioning the existing internals (if they can be), rebuild the 1915cc with new internals, turn the 1915cc into a 94x78 2165cc with new internals. I'm hoping the heads don't need any work. This is ALL assuming the 1915cc engine case is still good - I don't believe it has a lot of miles on it - I could do without that darn sand seal though. Everything would be balanced too.
I'll need to price it all out, but I'm assuming the cost will be less then building from scratch. If it's not, I will build from scratch.
I'll sell what I don't use (including the other engine case and heads I have sitting in my garage). Both Kadrons will be sold and a few other things I have laying around...
I had Greg Leach at Vintage Motorcars build a 2110cc engine with 44 IDF Webers for the VS Speedster I bought in 2016. It has 8.5:1 compression; however, I was never able to find out if it had been dyno tested. Never the less, it has been a wonderful engine and the car is very, very fast.
cp
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Cliff Presley - Charlotte, NC posted:*LongFella posted:In all likelihood, I will work with Greg at Vintage Motorcars. I've enjoyed his honesty and trust his support if any issues come up. He's been a good ear for me and has always been brutally honest.
So the first decision to make: Rebuild the 1915cc by reconditioning the existing internals (if they can be), rebuild the 1915cc with new internals, turn the 1915cc into a 94x78 2165cc with new internals. I'm hoping the heads don't need any work. This is ALL assuming the 1915cc engine case is still good - I don't believe it has a lot of miles on it - I could do without that darn sand seal though. Everything would be balanced too.
I'll need to price it all out, but I'm assuming the cost will be less then building from scratch. If it's not, I will build from scratch.
I'll sell what I don't use (including the other engine case and heads I have sitting in my garage). Both Kadrons will be sold and a few other things I have laying around...
I had Greg Leach at Vintage Motorcars build a 2110cc engine with 44 IDF Webers for the VS Speedster I bought in 2016. It has 8.5:1 compression; however, I was never able to find out if it had been dyno tested. Never the less, it has been a wonderful engine and the car is very, very fast.
cp
Very nice!
"I had Greg Leach at Vintage Motorcars build a 2110cc engine with 44 IDF Webers for the VS Speedster I bought in 2016. It has 8.5:1 compression; however, I was never able to find out if it had been dyno tested. Never the less, it has been a wonderful engine and the car is very, very fast."
If it has ported 40x35 heads, cam/rocker combo to let it rev to 6,000rpm peak and everything is right is should produce somewhere in the neighbourhood of 140-150 or so horsepower. Perfect for a Speedster!
ALB posted:If it has ported 40x35 heads, cam/rocker combo to let it rev to 6,000rpm peak and everything is right is should produce somewhere in the neighbourhood of 140-150 or so horsepower. Perfect for a Speedster!
76 X 94 Universal Super Case, Welded #3 Cylinder
76mm Forged Chromoly Crankshaft
Forged Chromoly Uni-Tech Connecting Rods
Forged Chromoly Light Weight Flywheel
Manton Chromoly Push Rods. .035 wall thickness
94mm Mahle Piston/Cylinder Kit
#2246 Camshaft 314° duration x 411 lift at cam (.452" w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms)
(wide selection of Cams are available)
1.1 Ratio Rocker Arms w/ swivel feet adjusters
Hardened Rocker Shafts
Billet Distributor Clamp
044 Heads 40 X 35.5 Stainless Steel Valves,
Single Hi-Rev Springs, Chromoly Retainers
Stage 1 Kennedy Pressure Plate w/200mm Daiken Disc
Magnaspark II with Dry Pack Coil
Dual 44 IDF Weber Carb Kit with CB Hexbar Linkage
Doghouse Fan Shroud w/Bosch Alternator (with Air or without Air)
26mm Keyed Oil Pump
Degreed Crank Pulley
Chromoly 8mm Head Studs
94mm Teflon wrist pin buttons
Windage Tubes
Standard Fuel Pump
8.5:1 Compression
76mm Forged Chromoly Crankshaft
Forged Chromoly Uni-Tech Connecting Rods
Forged Chromoly Light Weight Flywheel
Manton Chromoly Push Rods. .035 wall thickness
94mm Mahle Piston/Cylinder Kit
#2246 Camshaft 314° duration x 411 lift at cam (.452" w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms)
(wide selection of Cams are available)
1.1 Ratio Rocker Arms w/ swivel feet adjusters
Hardened Rocker Shafts
Billet Distributor Clamp
044 Heads 40 X 35.5 Stainless Steel Valves,
Single Hi-Rev Springs, Chromoly Retainers
Stage 1 Kennedy Pressure Plate w/200mm Daiken Disc
Magnaspark II with Dry Pack Coil
Dual 44 IDF Weber Carb Kit with CB Hexbar Linkage
Doghouse Fan Shroud w/Bosch Alternator (with Air or without Air)
26mm Keyed Oil Pump
Degreed Crank Pulley
Chromoly 8mm Head Studs
94mm Teflon wrist pin buttons
Windage Tubes
Standard Fuel Pump
8.5:1 Compression
Cliff Presley - Charlotte, NC posted:ALB posted:If it has ported 40x35 heads, cam/rocker combo to let it rev to 6,000rpm peak and everything is right is should produce somewhere in the neighbourhood of 140-150 or so horsepower. Perfect for a Speedster!
76 X 94 Universal Super Case, Welded #3 Cylinder
76mm Forged Chromoly Crankshaft
Forged Chromoly Uni-Tech Connecting Rods
Forged Chromoly Light Weight Flywheel
Manton Chromoly Push Rods. .035 wall thickness
94mm Mahle Piston/Cylinder Kit
#2246 Camshaft 314° duration x 411 lift at cam (.452" w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms)
(wide selection of Cams are available)
1.1 Ratio Rocker Arms w/ swivel feet adjusters
Hardened Rocker Shafts
Billet Distributor Clamp
044 Heads 40 X 35.5 Stainless Steel Valves,
Single Hi-Rev Springs, Chromoly Retainers
Stage 1 Kennedy Pressure Plate w/200mm Daiken Disc
Magnaspark II with Dry Pack Coil
Dual 44 IDF Weber Carb Kit with CB Hexbar Linkage
Doghouse Fan Shroud w/Bosch Alternator (with Air or without Air)
26mm Keyed Oil Pump
Degreed Crank Pulley
Chromoly 8mm Head Studs
94mm Teflon wrist pin buttons
Windage Tubes
Standard Fuel Pump
8.5:1 Compression
Nice! That has some CB spec's to it. Curious... why not 1.25 rockers and/or a 78mm crank?
Is it: smaller crank, better bottom end? Or larger crank, better bottom end?
Either way, that's a solid build (based on what I've been researching and reading and learning and scratching my head and...)
*LongFella posted:Cliff Presley - Charlotte, NC posted:76 X 94 Universal Super Case, Welded #3 Cylinder
76mm Forged Chromoly Crankshaft
Forged Chromoly Uni-Tech Connecting Rods
Forged Chromoly Light Weight Flywheel
Manton Chromoly Push Rods. .035 wall thickness
94mm Mahle Piston/Cylinder Kit
#2246 Camshaft 314° duration x 411 lift at cam (.452" w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms)
(wide selection of Cams are available)
1.1 Ratio Rocker Arms w/ swivel feet adjusters
Hardened Rocker Shafts
Billet Distributor Clamp
044 Heads 40 X 35.5 Stainless Steel Valves,
Single Hi-Rev Springs, Chromoly Retainers
Stage 1 Kennedy Pressure Plate w/200mm Daiken Disc
Magnaspark II with Dry Pack Coil
Dual 44 IDF Weber Carb Kit with CB Hexbar Linkage
Doghouse Fan Shroud w/Bosch Alternator (with Air or without Air)
26mm Keyed Oil Pump
Degreed Crank Pulley
Chromoly 8mm Head Studs
94mm Teflon wrist pin buttons
Windage Tubes
Standard Fuel Pump
8.5:1 CompressionNice! That has some CB spec's to it. Curious... why not 1.25 rockers and/or a 78mm crank?
Is it: smaller crank, better bottom end? Or larger crank, better bottom end?
Either way, that's a solid build (based on what I've been researching and reading and learning and scratching my head and...)
Brian,
Those are questions you will have to ask Greg. I did a fair amount of due diligence before the engine was built but when it came to actually having it build - in the final analysis I decided to rely on Greg's experience.
Cheers,
Cliff
I'm sure that's a fun engine, Cliff! If that list is what's in it, the CB2246 cam has 260' @ .050" duration, and ideally the engine should rev to 6500rpm with power.
Brian- Generally, with a longer stroke crankshaft (more displacement) you'd expect better bottom end/lower midrange. There could be any number of reasons why the builder chose that combo; you'd have to ask him.
If that engine comes apart, I'd make it a 2110. Web 120 or something similar and Panchitos heads.
I love the way Jim thinks-- but trying to emulate how somebody else thinks, when I'm wired to think mechanically, is like asking a cat to swim. Jim doesn't worry about his engine and I don't think I've ever thought about leaving the oven on.
As far as saving money for other stuff, that's cool. However, I've spent a lot of money in the past 12 months on stuff that is much more "sensible". You know what? I'd rather have a nice engine than almost anything I've spent that money on, so there's that.
...and now, lets discuss transaxle gear ratios. Jim, will you please open this discussion?
Seriously, what Jim fails to leave out is he discussed specs when he had his car built and it wasn't just a arbitrary build. He was very specific. Whether your a Longfella or Shortfella you have a pretty good idea of how you want your car to look and drive so I say build it the way you want fellas and who cares about the oven, your wife will take care of that. Whups was that sexist?
Rusty S posted:...and now, lets discuss transaxle gear ratios. Jim, will you please open this discussion?
We are going for a record thread, right?
Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:If that engine comes apart, I'd make it a 2110. Web 120 or something similar and Panchitos heads.
I love the way Jim thinks-- but trying to emulate how somebody else thinks, when I'm wired to think mechanically, is like asking a cat to swim. Jim doesn't worry about his engine and I don't think I've ever thought about leaving the oven on.
As far as saving money for other stuff, that's cool. However, I've spent a lot of money in the past 12 months on stuff that is much more "sensible". You know what? I'd rather have a nice engine than almost anything I've spent that money on, so there's that.
This is likely the route... or up the crank a little to get more bottom end (as I learned)...
New crank. New rods. New cam. Misc hardware to put it all back together. New 44 carbs.
I just hope the case and heads are usable.. and some other stuff... but I won't know that until the case is apart and examined... I'd really like to use what I have and can to manage spend...
*LongFella posted:Rusty S posted:...and now, lets discuss transaxle gear ratios. Jim, will you please open this discussion?
We are going for a record thread, right?
This thread already has the record. By a long shot. 
Well I say if you're going to get into the engine you may as well have Greg go over gear ratios with you. I cannot tell you how much better 1st , 2nd, and 3rd feel after my upgrade. That was worth every penny to me.
Rusty,
Would you mind telling us what the gear rations are in your transmission?
Cliff