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Brian, I have a couple of thoughts after having built a very similar engine to the one you're doing.

The Vintage Speed exhaust is great looking, simulates the big-sausage 356 mufflers and like you, I thought the Super Flow was the way to go since it's going on a "big" motor. Just know that it's loud, and in these open cars, as you know, that volume which some love, can get old.

I was at a large 356 gathering last weekend and most there had stock exhausts, most had driven long miles to get there and though their exhaust notes were quiet, they had that confident sound that says: "Don't worry, I can still blow your doors off!"

I think 44's can be made to "work" on your engine and many, if not most builders claim they are the "way to go" but why push-the-river?

If you want, as I did/do, a grocery-getter, a back-road cruiser, a car with lots of low-end (think: around-town) response, I urge you to insist on 40's. They are sized for drivability on an engine of your size. the higher air-speed through the smaller throats equals better carburetor and engine response. Yes, you'll lose some top-end power (think 5,000 rpms and up), but who cares? I sure don't!

I'm heading out to my buddy: Jim Ansites this morning to try one last time to get my 44's working and if we can't, which is most likely, we're putting on a set of 40's, I'm just tired, after 9 months of swimming upstream, to get these stinking 44's right.

OK, tirade over, boy do I feel better!

Last edited by Will Hesch

So I've compiled a list to talk to Greg more about:

  • Carb selection: 40's versus 44's
  • Heads: Cost to continue machining my OEM heads vs. just buying a set already complete
  • Rockers: up to 1.25 versus 1.1 (will it add a little pep without sacrificing reliability on a W120 cam)

I've learned the power is in the heads and you don't want to skimp out there... so we will see what he comes back with and do any analysis of cost/budget. Everything else about the build, I am comfortable with. Let's just hope if the cylinder head route is to "buy" complete ones... we can get them in time to have all this done before the West Coast Cruise...

ALB posted:

So what have you decided on?

I safe, mellow, reliable 2110cc that optimizes the use of German OEM parts and minimizes the use of aftermarket parts.

Am I leaving some power on the table? Likely. But I think this engine will be a lot more powerful then what I have and won't sacrifice reliability. More power = more risk. I do not want to increase risk for a few more ponies.

I've spent too much blood, sweat, and tears on this build. Now I just want to get a well built engine from someone I can trust and start driving. I want more miles in my ODO!

I took everyone's thoughts into consideration and it was GREATLY appreciated. But I also trust Greg and his builds are VERY solid. I don't recall seeing or reading about any engine issues in his builds. Plus, he's local and I can stop by anytime to say hi and hang with his shop guys (who are awesome peeps by the way)

Quick update:

Case and heads are complete and ready.  The balancing of ALL moving parts (clutch included) will take place at the end of the week. I'm guessing engine assembly will happen next week, which I will likely be dropping off the Speedster to remove the 1915cc and give Greg a chance to add parts and address some other issues for me.

I got my luggage straps in from Dusty - they look beautiful. I found a vintage suitcase on Etsy (an old 50's style that will nicely match Eleanor). Patiently waiting for the luggage rack from Will. I also ordered a set of Vintage Speedster oval mesh air cleaner types for the new carbs (still trying to keep a vintage look).

Everything is moving along as planned and within budget. Woohoo! (knock on wood)

Your progress sounds exciting, and I fully agree with trying to find local shops that can do the work.  It's relatively easy (it seems) to find those shops in SoCal - MUCHO harder elsewhere in the country and anyone with competent shops nearby are lucky.  

"Everything is moving along as planned and within budget."

That NEVER happens on the "Property Brothers" on HGTV!

*LongFella posted:
ALB posted:

So what have you decided on?

I safe, mellow, reliable 2110cc that optimizes the use of German OEM parts and minimizes the use of aftermarket parts.

Am I leaving some power on the table? Likely. But I think this engine will be a lot more powerful then what I have and won't sacrifice reliability. More power = more risk. I do not want to increase risk for a few more ponies.

You obviously don't know me very well yet, Brian. When I ask "What's in it?" or "So what have you decided on?" (or any such question) I'm interested in what heads (valve sizes, extra porting?) cam/rockers, carbs, compression, exhaust (and anything else pertinent to the build). You know- 

                   DETAILS!

So- what did you and your builder finally decide on? 

ALB posted:
*LongFella posted:
ALB posted:

So what have you decided on?

I safe, mellow, reliable 2110cc that optimizes the use of German OEM parts and minimizes the use of aftermarket parts.

Am I leaving some power on the table? Likely. But I think this engine will be a lot more powerful then what I have and won't sacrifice reliability. More power = more risk. I do not want to increase risk for a few more ponies.

You obviously don't know me very well yet, Brian. When I ask "What's in it?" or "So what have you decided on?" (or any such question) I'm interested in what heads (valve sizes, extra porting?) cam/rockers, carbs, compression, exhaust (and anything else pertinent to the build). You know- 

                   DETAILS!

So- what did you and your builder finally decide on? 

Not much change from my original post, but here is what I have written down:

  • 2110cc with 8.5:1 CR
  • 82mm crank, H beam rods, chromoly light flywheel, chromo gland nut, 1700lbs clutch and disc (ALL balanced together as one unit)
  • Engine case (OEM German AS41), deck cleaned, aligned bored, thrust cut, 8mm case savers, lifter bores sleeved, clearance for 82mm crank, full flowed
  • OEM German heads, 40x35.5, dual springs, minor head work
  • Aluminum push rods
  • Solid rocker shafts, 1.1:1 rockers
  • Engle 120 cam and lifters
  • OEM German cam gears
  • Stock valve covers, vented
  • 26mm oil pump
  • extra oil sump and external oil cooler and fan
  • Type 4 doghouse cooler (35hp fan shroud will be bumped out and welded to fit the type 4 cooler)
  • Carbs: 44 HPMX (jetted and tuned for a 2110cc)
  • Vintage Speed stainless steel classic type oval mesh air cleaners
  • Exhaust: Vintage Speed 356 replica SuperFlow (good up to 150hp)
  • Magna Spark II distributer (same one on my 1915cc I bought from CB Performance)
  • Engine tin will be painted black except the fan shroud which will be grey
  • Breather box for ventilation

Greg is also adding an electric fuel pump for me AND fixing my front beam. Apparently, a couple bushings the guy who rebuilt the front end used are bad and there is significant play in the lower drivers side arm and upper passenger arm. I am also buying a Vintage 190 4.5 size rim and skinny tire to mount a spare up front (I have the hardware and leather strap from Dusty). The engine will be broken in, tuned, valve adjustment, etc. before being installed so that we are ready to go for the West Coast Cruise on June 9th.

Last update I got, the balancing of all parts is taking place today. So I'm guessing the long block will be done next week and I can bring my Speedster up to Greg's shop. I agreed to remove the 1915cc so I can save a bit on labor... plus, I don't mind getting a little dirty around Eleanor

I'm hoping no other issues come up when Greg looks her over, but I have a feeling there might be a few minor things since I am not an expert builder...

Once it is all done, there WILL be mandatory beer delivered to Greg and Team for all the hard work 

This will (hopefully) be the last round of work to Eleanor aside from the maintenance. After this, I just want to put as many miles on her as I can.... and of course start scoping out the next build

The engine will deliver a lot of torque through the bottom end and lower midrange, and be a heck of a lot of fun! The more porting work (the bigger the intake ports) the more power it will produce in the very upper midrange and top end. It should go to 6,000rpm with power if everything is right. It'll be a blast!   Al

ALB posted:

The engine will deliver a lot of torque through the bottom end and lower midrange, and be a heck of a lot of fun! The more porting work (the bigger the intake ports) the more power it will produce in the very upper midrange and top end. It should go to 6,000rpm with power if everything is right. It'll be a blast!   Al

I should be a fun reliable engine with room for improvement (if the need arises) later on

*LongFella posted:
ALB posted:

The engine will deliver a lot of torque through the bottom end and lower midrange, and be a heck of a lot of fun! The more porting work (the bigger the intake ports) the more power it will produce in the very upper midrange and top end. It should go to 6,000rpm with power if everything is right. It'll be a blast!   Al

I should be a fun reliable engine with room for improvement (if the need arises) later on

If the need arises later on? Who are you kidding- just do the heads properly now so you can add the 1.25 rockers later at your leisure, so it'll rev even higher with more power!   .   (for those that don't get my mixing of little faces, think evil laugh here)  

 Suitcases? Luggage rack? fancy mats? You're forgetting that it does say 'Speedster' on the side, you know (Uncle Stan said so! )

 

 

 

Last edited by ALB

Nice find on that suitcase! It is redolent of style and history.

I think it's the essence of the "Speedster" style, circa 1957, to drive it 12 hours to the track on a Friday afternoon with your beautiful (though somewhat confused/irritated) girlfriend in the right seat, check into a cheesetastic motor inn and stow the suitcases at 1 am, wake up at 7, remove the luggage rack, bumpers (and maybe windshield), pump up the tires, advance the timing, drive to the track too late for orientation and race all day, then get stinkin' drunk at the nearest bar after the race with all the other idiots until 1 or 3 am, sweetly ask the GF to drive you back to the lodge (or pass out and wake up there at 10 the next morning with no idea what happened), bolt the parts back on the car by 11:30 or so and hit the road for the 12-hour ride back home (with said GF now hyper-pissed off at you for including her in this excursion), you trying to explain and excuse and bargain for the whole second half of the trip (the first six hours having passed in the traditional mode of silent stewing), finally agreeing that the next overnight Speedster run will be to some sort of relaxing, romantic mountain lodge, just the two of us, honest!, arriving home just in time to hit the hay so you can get up for work at 6 or 7 am, still exhausted, on Monday. 

Quick update: Engine is being built this weekend and should be up and running next week. Greg is also modifying the shroud for me so that I can get it painted the proper Porsche Grey (Ace Hardware "Light Grey" spray can - LOL!). I'll be driving Eleanor up on May 31 to remove the engine and give Greg time to install all the extra goodies and new engine. So far - we are on time and on budget still!

Also, HUGE thank you to @Will Hesch for the luggage rack. He sent me pics last night and it looks AWESOME! The extra money was worth having an original Ruetter. It will fit my build nicely (pics are from Will and after the hammertoe powder coat).

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Then thats it! Makes sense because there is an ace hardware about 5 miles away.

I picked up that shroud when I got the 1915. The previous owner had cut off the heater outlets and welded up the holes. He applied 3lbs of bondo to the shroud. It looked like mashed potatoes piled on there. I ground off 2.75lbs of it and tried to reshape it a bit. It still wasn't perfect. The same guy widened the doghouse cooling tins to accept a type 4 oil cooler. You will notice his welding skills if you have a close look at those pieces.

I can't wait to see the transformation.

Last edited by TRP
TRP posted:

Then thats it! Makes sense because there is an ace hardware about 5 miles away.

I picked up that shroud when I got the 1915. The previous owner had cut off the heater outlets and welded up the holes. He applied 3lbs of bondo to the shroud. It looked like mashed potatoes piled on there. I ground off 2.75lbs of it and tried to reshape it a bit. It still wasn't perfect. The same guy widened the doghouse cooling tins to accept a type 4 oil cooler. You will notice his welding skills if you have a close look at those pieces.

I can't wait to see the transformation.

That shroud is going in the trash or maybe raffle it off at the WCC...

The other 36hp doghouse shroud I got from you - Greg will be welding that to fit a type 4 cooler. Should be done on Monday and I will pick it up to prep/paint it...

We agreed the 36hp shroud would look more true then the other (which we think is a VW thing shroud)....

Got some pics of the long block. I will be heading to the shop shortly to pick up the new shroud (bumped out for a type 4 oil cooler) and the spare tire mounted to a nice Vintage 190 (4.5 inch) rim.

Vintage Speed oval air mesh (stainless Steel) look amazing in person! Great craftsmanship!

Thank you @Will Hesch for the luggage rack - it is beautiful and holds true to my build. The leather straps from Dusty and vintage suitcase I found on Easy will look pretty nice on the back of Eleanor.

I'll be taking Eleanor up to the shop next week and spending the day there getting the engine out and parts transferred to the new engine so that Greg can get it broken in, running, and ready to install.

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Brian, the suitcase looks perfect!

Cover those openings in your long-block with masking tape, oil-pump housing, oil-cooler holes, intake and exhaust ports on the heads. And make sure Greg has checked the front and rear oil pressure relief pistons for ease of movement, my rear relief piston was stuck in place on the last build, took an hour of sanding with emery-cloth to free it up so it could function correctly (not that it ultimately mattered, a crappy build will circumvent the best intentions otherwise!).

I'm sure your build is A-OK, Greg is a stand-up guy.

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