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Just Saying Hi...

*LongFella*LongFella Supporting Member

Eleanor finally made it home yesterday! Nice to walk into my garage and see her sitting there

Greg found the issue with the fuel seeping carb. Ended up replacing the entire carb with a new one! My guess - bad casting? Either way, its a new carb and it doesn't leak a darn thing. He also did a valve job, oil change, checked the new engine out, adjusted the front shocks, and solved the popping/backfire exhaust issue I was having.

Now, I can put some endless miles on her!

A HUGE thank you to @MusbJim for letting be borrow his tow bar. I will definitely be making one for myself!

And... I also talked to Greg about my Coupe build which will be kicking off in a few months

The madness continues...

IaM-RayIaM-Ray

I used to have a tow bar long ago and the bar was shaped to fit the torsion bar by having the bottom of the bracket shaped like a U rounded and the top we used a straight bolt with a nylon lock washer I forgot where I got it but it worked on my Bug nicely.  I always wanted to weld on attachments so that I could just fit a tow bar to my car. 

Rusty SRusty S
*LongFella posted:
IaM-Ray posted:

Rusty can you post some picts please and thank you.

Check this link out

https://www.speedsterowners.com...my-vintage-speedster

I recently used it to tow my Speedster to Greg's shop for follow-up work. Worked like a charm and decided to have one made or just order the one TRP uses (link above to the Samba listing).

I like the one on The Samba and that it breaks down but I would worry about those nuts coming loose that hold it together. Jim's is solid and I just don't worry about it.

*LongFella*LongFella Supporting Member
Rusty S posted:
*LongFella posted:
IaM-Ray posted:

Rusty can you post some picts please and thank you.

Check this link out

https://www.speedsterowners.com...my-vintage-speedster

I recently used it to tow my Speedster to Greg's shop for follow-up work. Worked like a charm and decided to have one made or just order the one TRP uses (link above to the Samba listing).

I like the one on The Samba and that it breaks down but I would worry about those nuts coming loose that hold it together. Jim's is solid and I just don't worry about it.

I thought about that too. I would imagine some high grade nuts/bolts would hold fine OR just weld it together after receiving it...

After using Jim's tow bar, I realized it is a good tool to have in case I need to tow the Speedster. Plus, I'm trying to convince the CEO (aka wifey) to head to Tahoe for the next cruise/meet-up...

*LongFella*LongFella Supporting Member

I've officially checked the last box on my build! I have nothing left on my checklist that needs to be complete. The last item was wiring and installing the horns. Done!

We've been teaching our daughter sounds - a car's horn is one of them and she was SO excited to finally hear it coming from the Speedster Scared the sh$% out of our dogs though... LOL!

And thank you @MusbJim for the 356 girl badge. Looks nice next to the SOC badge

Now, time to focus on the coupe build and put many miles on the Speedster 

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Michael B (aka bluespeedster SoCal)Michael B (aka bluespeedster SoCal) Supporting Member
*LongFella posted:

One last little piece installed. Never ending, right?

Was getting a little annoyed with the gas smell on hard left turns, so I jumped on the band wagon and installed a check valve. Nice little aluminum one I got on Amazon (made for fuel and has a low crack pressure to let the air in).

Brian, so m any good improvements to find for the SOC'ers. Can you remember the Amazon item number for the low crack pressure check valve. There are too  many on the site to figure which one you have. Thank you, Michael

Michael B (aka bluespeedster SoCal)Michael B (aka bluespeedster SoCal) Supporting Member

Brian, from Amazon any one of these; 

Excelvan 2 Packs 6MM/0.24Inch 1/4” Chrome Aluminium Fuel Non-return One Way Check Valve Oil Petrol Diesel Marine Water, 

Air Fuel Oil Check Valve - TOOGOO(R)2pcs 6MM Non-Return One Way 1/4 Inch Air Fuel Oil Check Valve Diesel Gas, 

DIAOSnx 2Pcs Aluminum Non-Return One Way Check Valve for Water Fuel Petrol Diesel Oils (6mm 1/4")

 

*LongFella*LongFella Supporting Member
Michael B (aka bluespeedster SoCal) posted:

Brian, from Amazon any one of these; 

Excelvan 2 Packs 6MM/0.24Inch 1/4” Chrome Aluminium Fuel Non-return One Way Check Valve Oil Petrol Diesel Marine Water, 

Air Fuel Oil Check Valve - TOOGOO(R)2pcs 6MM Non-Return One Way 1/4 Inch Air Fuel Oil Check Valve Diesel Gas, 

DIAOSnx 2Pcs Aluminum Non-Return One Way Check Valve for Water Fuel Petrol Diesel Oils (6mm 1/4")

 

Here what I got...

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El FrazooEl Frazoo Supporting Member

wrt the gas tank check valve, be advised that when the tank is getting empty and there is a lot of air/vapor in there, and the day is cool, or even cold and you park the car for a while and then it gets warmed, the tank will pressurize.  Perhaps your fuel pump will not mind, and just pass this pressure right along to the carbs.  Here, the pressure will fight the float valve, and maybe the float valve will lose that fight due to age or whatever.  at this point the float chamber will overflow and gas goes down the throat and into the engine, depending on where the valves stopped. Gas easily slips by the rings over time, and then the end result: gas in the oil.  Could go so far as to essentially fill the crankcase.  Running in this condition will almost assuredly force the mostly gas and some oil mixture up through whatever breather apparatus you have, and if plumbed to the carbs, will create a smoke screen the likes of which have not been seen since WWII.  This here, in case you haven't been able to tell, is the Voice of Experience (VoE) speaking.  If you experience this initial condition: cool or cold partially full tank followed by warm or even hot weather, then you just crack the filler cap open, and hear the pressure escape and equalize.  Also, if you check your oil level regularly, and have enough grey matter so as to remember where you are on the dip stick one check to the next, and you ever see the level go up without you adding any oil -- THIS IS A SIGN.  Similarly, if the dip stick smells of gasoline, this is ALSO A SIGN.  I am here to tell you that is possible to miss these two blatant signs, and end up at the WWII smokescreen stage.  So sayeth the VoE.

Stan GalatStan Galat

You know, the "gas smell" is a really common issue with these cars. I've always just gotten a checkvalve from my FLAPS, and put it in the breather line. It effectively ends the odor.

However (and there's always something), the tank does end up being pressurized. It's minimized/eliminated if you drive a fair bit, as the level of the tank keeps dropping, naturally relieving the pressure. Henry at IM considered this to be unacceptable, and ran a very long breather tube to the back of the car, with a loop in it. It still smelled.

I think the only good way to do this is the way OEMs have been doing it for 40 years. Get a charcoal canister from a salvage yard and run the breather in and out of it. Angela did this on her spyder, and I've always thought it'd be a good idea. If I ever redo the gas tank (and I'm thinking I'd like to build something that snuggles down lower in the car), I'll make a provision for a canister.

I'm still using the checkvalve. I've never overwhelmed my needle valves on the Dellortos, but it's a risk. 

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